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Looking for pros and cons on owners of SRT auto. Any problems over time? Does it shift firm enough or does it feel weak? Been toying with an idea of buying a 6.1 with an auto. I do love a stick shift but I'm getting to the age of just wanting to punch it and go. Plus traffic and stick shift sucks.
 

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I just bought a low mileage 2011 SRT8 two weeks ago with the A5. So far I really like it. Was always a big fan of rowing the Tremec, had one in my last 2 toys - a C5 98 Vette and a 99 WS6 TA. Nothing more fun than power shifting and getting a little sideways on an open road. Makes you feel like you are in more complete control of the car., at least for me anyway.

That said, and as much fun as it is/was, there is not a lot I hate more than driving a stick in traffic these days. I test drove a 6 speed 2014 SRT8 as luck would have it, in some traffic and that sealed the deal. I bought the auto and didn't look back.

Way too early to tell about the reliability aspect of the A5 but shifts seem firm and positive. I have been playing with the 'auto stick' which seems to work well although I have noticed there is a very slight almost imperceptible delay. It's almost like having a stick without the clutch when you want it and you can slap it back into auto mode at any time. The 2012 and up cars I drove had the paddles on the steering wheel which was nice. 2011 is controlled by side to side motion on the shifter.

I have heard raves about the A8 from people who have them, but the 5 speed seems pretty solid so far.

Had it out for a spin earlier - still getting some seat time in to get used to the car. Had it in regular automatic mode rolling at about 30 MPH on dry pavement. I matted the throttle, blew the tires away and got sideways which surprised me somewhat even with the traction control engaged, but then again the 245s out back are COMPLETELY inadequate IMHO.
 

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The 6.4 is still out of my price range. I've heard good things about the 8 speed as well. But again the '15s are out of my price range. I've only test drove a 6 speed. Of course, I love the feeling of shifting until I was stuck in traffic.
 

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The 6.4 is still out of my price range. I've heard good things about the 8 speed as well. But again the '15s are out of my price range. I've only test drove a 6 speed. Of coarse I love the feeling of shifting until I was stuck in traffic.
I hear you man, I was really looking for a 12-14 but the SRT8s are still pretty pricey with low miles as in 30k and up, around here in NY anyway. As a result, I had to 'settle' for a really clean, very low mile 2011, but I was not willing to compromise - it had to be a 392. It feels like a brand new car, even smells new. I definitely made the right choice and I am already scheming how I am going to fund the procharger. Looking to build a 'poor man's HC' so to speak. I figure that will provide the most HP/$ so to speak, as opposed to bolt on mods. I can turn up the wick down the line when finances allow it.

Manuals + traffic = SUCKAGE
 

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I'm with you 11srt8. Last July I picked up a 2013 SRT8 with 7500 miles and the A5. First thing I looked into was installing an A8 but I realize that’s too much to do. I like the Kenne Bell blowers but they have so much bottom end power I'd trash the A5 and the 392 in short order. So I'm trying to fund a Procharger I can keep boost at 6-7 lbs. and live until I can build a 426 forged motor, then crank the Procharger and see where I'm at. I want to keep it low mileage but it’s just too much fun to drive. Just hit 13,000 miles and still not a scratch on paint or interior. Right now I'm looking at detailers who can put on a CQuartz shine on it. I'm still recovering my mind set, just missing out last Friday, on buying a totaled Demon with 815 miles on a good motor. Hit the far side of a trench, mud damage. If I had acquired it there would have been a boat load of ways to go then.
 

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I'm with you 11srt8. Last July I picked up a 2013 SRT8 with 7500 miles and the A5. First thing I looked into was installing an A8 but I realize that’s too much to do. I like the Kenne Bell blowers but they have so much bottom end power I'd trash the A5 and the 392 in short order. So I'm trying to fund a Procharger I can keep boost at 6-7 lbs. and live until I can build a 426 forged motor, then crank the Procharger and see where I'm at. I want to keep it low mileage but it’s just too much fun to drive. Just hit 13,000 miles and still not a scratch on paint or interior. Right now I'm looking at detailers who can put on a CQuartz shine on it. I'm still recovering my mind set, just missing out last Friday, on buying a totaled Demon with 815 miles on a good motor. Hit the far side of a trench, mud damage. If I had acquired it there would have been a boat load of ways to go then.
Great minds think alike amigo. Have read repeatedly to stay well below 8 lbs, preferably at 6 with a stock 392 bottom end and a Procharger. Was thinking that a nice 426 CID completely forged bottom end would pay homage to great past Mopars, and then turn up the wick on the PC and see where it goes.

FI is not really my area of expertise yet...but I plan to explore it thoroughly. Until now I have always built big inch, iron blocked, aluminum headed, N/A Pontiac engines. These days with aftermarket blocks, you can make over 600 cubes. My last was a 535 making right around Demon 'red key' + 100 octane numbers, but N/A. Put a 2 ton goat with me in it through the lights in a bit over mid 9's @ 138+. That was about a decade ago.

After that, I dabbled in LS engines in a 99 WS6 TA and realized I'm not really a fan of aluminum blocks. I 'liberated' 3 connecting rods from 3 separate blocks in 6 months time. That's GOT to be some kind of record. Hey, they told me 'LS engines LOVE to rev' and I took them at their word. Apparently, the con rods are the weak link in those engines. I routinely spun my 535 to 7800 at the big end and never hurt anything, but then again, it was a totally forged rotating assembly in a super beefy iron block, with splayed 4 bolt main caps and ARP bolts.

While we're on the subject, I was under the impression that the 392 had a forged crank and rods but the cast pistons were the weak link when using boost north of 6 lbs. Is that not correct? That's the reason for the $800 'drop in' forged pistons. I just figure if I'm going to pull the 392 out, I might just as well stroke it as well as harden it. :wink3:

Damn shame you missed out on the Demon...
 

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My '10 R/TC had the A5. Ran it hard for 42k miles with no issues. Granted it was only the 5.7 engine, but liked everything about the A5, even in stock form.


My present SP has the A8/392. Killer combo in every way for a NA engine with an automatic. Love the 392 and the A8.


I feel that the A5 and the A8 are pretty much rock solid transmissions, and I like both.
 

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Great minds think alike amigo. Have read repeatedly to stay well below 8 lbs, preferably at 6 with a stock 392 bottom end and a Procharger. Was thinking that a nice 426 CID completely forged bottom end would pay homage to great past Mopars, and then turn up the wick on the PC and see where it goes.

While we're on the subject, I was under the impression that the 392 had a forged crank and rods but the cast pistons were the weak link when using boost north of 6 lbs. Is that not correct? That's the reason for the $800 'drop in' forged pistons. I just figure if I'm going to pull the 392 out, I might just as well stroke it as well as harden it. :wink3:

Damn shame you missed out on the Demon...
Yes on the pistons being the weak link. If I'm pulling my motor, 426 it will be when it returns. I had 426 Challenger once before. Sold it motor seperated from car in 79 but hey I had just bought a 78 TransAm T/A 6.6 and I really did own the road.

I was ALMOST relieved not to cart the Demon home 70 miles, find a place to store it/work it, install motor in my cherry SRT8 and sell the rest, or rebuild it race only or put motor in 240Z or something more silly. I don't have to make those decisions now0:)..........:|
 

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If you're trying to decide between the A5 or A8 you can't go wrong with either. My personal preference however is actually for the A5 since I'm able to take it a little more easy sometimes when I'm in the city. It eases in nicely from a complete stop and low speeds.

The A8 definitely has "bite" to it as in it's really snappy! Which is a good thing! You'll be in a more precise gear for power. I didn't hate this but I didn't like it as much as how easier-going the A5 is from a complete stop/low speeds.

Both pull nice at full throttle, but the A8 eeks it out by a little.

The A8 on paper and for performance is definitely the winner but I personally feel a little more in control with the A5. You'll be happy with either. Have had no issues with my A5 and i'm at 62k miles so far.
 

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If you're trying to decide between the A5 or A8 you can't go wrong with either. My personal preference however is actually for the A5 since I'm able to take it a little more easy sometimes when I'm in the city. It eases in nicely from a complete stop and low speeds.

The A8 definitely has "bite" to it as in it's really snappy! Which is a good thing! You'll be in a more precise gear for power. I didn't hate this but I didn't like it as much as how easier-going the A5 is from a complete stop/low speeds.

Both pull nice at full throttle, but the A8 eeks it out by a little.

The A8 on paper and for performance is definitely the winner but I personally feel a little more in control with the A5. You'll be happy with either. Have had no issues with my A5 and i'm at 62k miles so far.
I was actually thinking just yesterday as I was driving that the whole car felt downright docile and normal just like a 'regular car' UNTIL you put your foot into it....which is when the fun begins. >:)

Is it also true that both the A5 and A8 are MB units?
 

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Yes on the pistons being the weak link. If I'm pulling my motor, 426 it will be when it returns. I had 426 Challenger once before. Sold it motor seperated from car in 79 but hey I had just bought a 78 TransAm T/A 6.6 and I really did own the road.

I was ALMOST relieved not to cart the Demon home 70 miles, find a place to store it/work it, install motor in my cherry SRT8 and sell the rest, or rebuild it race only or put motor in 240Z or something more silly. I don't have to make those decisions now0:)..........:|
I feel you. I was in the beginning stages of rebuilding a very restorable 1974 Pontiac Grand AM when I was bitten by the Challenger bug. I was in the process of recreating my first car from high school (a 75 GA). The plan was to do a resto-mod highway cruiser with a/c, and banging sound system, and late model GTO leather buckets or something similar. I wanted comfort and great handling which the first gen GAs were known for at the time. Was also planning on building a stroked 400 - something around a 467, forged bottom end, ported aluminum heads and perhaps even FI making around 600 crank HP. Easy as falling out of bed in 2018 if you have deep enough pockets. Would need an OD trans of course also.
Probably would have worked out around the same $ as the Challenger + the PC.

Now I have it stashed in my neighbors driveway and am deciding what to do with it. I really want to keep it and just back burner the project. I picked it up on Ebay for $1500, it sat out in the desert in Utah for almost 20 years - no rot. Got it running easily enough and it's basically bone stock - a clean slate so to speak but a 190 HP 400 ain't gonna cut it. On the other hand, if I flipped it, that would get me halfway to the PC kit. Like you said....decisions decisions.
 

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I bought my ‘08 in May 2017 with 110 miles on it (original owner bought it to collect, then died 9 years later : (. All ‘08’s were 6.1 SRT8 with A5. I now have just under 10K miles (daily driver), and have not had a single issue. As someone else mentioned, there is a delay in the manual shift mode, but that’s to be expected since your movement of the stick has to go through electronics, solenoids, clutches/bands, etc. Once you know it’s there it’s not a big deal.

One advantage on the auto - when you’re doing a hole-shot in manual mode, if you don’t upshift before the redline it’ll do it for you and keep the burn going. ?

I haven’t driven one of these with a manual, but if they’re like other cars with manuals I’ve had, the rev limiter system kicks in and you have to get into 2nd fast (except my old hot rods where the rev limiter is ur right foot ?)...
 

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Looking for pros and cons on owners of SRT auto. Any problems over time? Does it shift firm enough or does it feel weak? Been toying with an idea of buying a 6.1 with an auto. I do love a stick shift but I'm getting to the age of just wanting to punch it and go. Plus traffic and stick shift sucks.
I have had my auto 2009 SRT well, since 2009! I have gotten use to having the auto stick between my thumb and finger while resting my palm on the console and pretty much drive manual all the time. Why did I get an auto then? Well it was mainly so I could free my hands when I wanted to. The upside to the auto is it will downshift automatically for you and the downside is:

1) It shifts way to early for my liking (probably for gas mileage rating purposes)
2) It is slow to shift

I fixed #1 by manual shifts and #2 with the diablo predator. The shifts snap now and will chirp and spin into 2nd on WOT with performance tires. I don't think I even turned the shift to high either for fear it might do some damage. I even do some manual downshifting as well. Have around 50k miles on it and have not had any transmission issues. I know, not a lot miles but it is my sunny day driver and I do drive it hard when I think it is safe to do so.

HTH
 

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Hey 11SRT8 with all these Pontiac pics you're lucky us Challenger folks are friendly... Are some photos of the Checkmate coming soon? ?
 
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