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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about 48,000 miles with my 2017 Challenger Scatpack. I'm due for an oil change, tire rotation, all rotor+pad replacement. I got Powerstop pads and DBA rotors. Going to have an independent mechanic help with it this time. I'll probably do my own oil change next time with my race ramps.

Looking at the schedule. It says at 50,000 I need:

1. Change engine oil and engine oil filter (will do)
2. Rotate tires (will do)
3. Adjust the parking brake on vehicles equipped with four wheel disc brakes. I think I need it, when I push down on the parking brake I feel there's more movement of the car when I release then when I first had at the car. Will adjusting the parking brake fix that?
4. Replace the engine air cleaner filter. I did that last oil change I think it should be fine. Is that the same filter inside the Hellcat lower air box mod? If so it should last for a bit longer than my last oil change about 42,000 miles ago. The air conditioning filter is also known as the cabin air filter right? It was a pain to reinstall without damaging the filter. There's a stupid screw inside there for some reason that makes it hard to maneuver around. Anyone notice that? I have one of those K&N reusable filters with like two different sprays for it.
5. Other than that there is a lot of inspections I should do. What should the mechanic do as far as inspection? Inspect the rear axle fluid. is that easy to inspect? Is that on or near the differential? Says to Inspect brake linings; replace if necessary is that different from the brake pads? Thinking maybe just to print out the maintenance chart below and have him go over all the inspection requirements for 50,000 miles and before.

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You are looking at the 50,000 Kilometers BTW, Miles is at top 48,000 54,000

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What ever the factory has scheduled (or what is over due...).

But I'd add after a brake "job" flush and bleed the brake hydraulic system with fresh fluid. While the factory doesn't call for this I have found 2 years is a good brake fluid flush/bleed interval. That Dodge doesn't call for one is IMHO kind of lame on Dodge's part.

Also, while Dodge doesn't have this scheduled I'd do a coolant drain and refill with fresh coolant made with the factory recommended anti-freeze. I like to do this/have this done every 4 years. Goes a long way to prolonging cooling system component life not only the water pump (seals) but the hoses and other gaskets/o-rings exposed to the coolant. Helps keep those thin wall radiators and heat exchanger leak free, too.

Regarding the engine air filter. While you don't have a Hellcat you have a Hellcat air filter installed (if I read your post right). My Hellcat air filter was filthy at 27K miles. IIRC the change by miles is 20K. So yeah I let it go. And the engine perked up some after the new air filter was installed. The A/C air filter was likewise considerably dirty. After its change I didn't notice any difference in A/C but it was clear from how it looked it was needing replacement.

For inspections except for maybe the rear diff fluid level you should check all lines/hoses for any leak sign. Check gaskets, sealed, o-ringed areas for leak sign. Check brake hoses/lines/fittings for leaks. Check shocks for leaks. IOWs, check all over for leak sign. Not to put too fine a point on it but this should be done every oil change not just every once in a great while.

Check any drive train or suspension/steering hardware for split or bad dust boots. Check any V-belt or serpentine belts for signs of excessive wear. These should be changed on schedule (at least).

Be sure all the coils are secured to their respective plug.

Check the battery connections. Might not be a bad idea to per the manual disconnect the battery and clean the battery posts and connectors. Don't have to do this every oil change but every few years.

You just want to give the entire car from bumper to bumper a good visual inspection to if there is a problem developing (mainly a leak) to recognize this ASAP and get it addressed before it becomes a bigger problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You are looking at the 50,000 Kilometers BTW, Miles is at top 48,000 54,000

A Guy
Thanks yeah I was totally looking at it wrong. I am still overdue for the parking brake adjustment which was suppose to be done at 30,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What ever the factory has scheduled (or what is over due...).

But I'd add after a brake "job" flush and bleed the brake hydraulic system with fresh fluid. While the factory doesn't call for this I have found 2 years is a good brake fluid flush/bleed interval. That Dodge doesn't call for one is IMHO kind of lame on Dodge's part.

Also, while Dodge doesn't have this scheduled I'd do a coolant drain and refill with fresh coolant made with the factory recommended anti-freeze. I like to do this/have this done every 4 years. Goes a long way to prolonging cooling system component life not only the water pump (seals) but the hoses and other gaskets/o-rings exposed to the coolant. Helps keep those thin wall radiators and heat exchanger leak free, too.

Regarding the engine air filter. While you don't have a Hellcat you have a Hellcat air filter installed (if I read your post right). My Hellcat air filter was filthy at 27K miles. IIRC the change by miles is 20K. So yeah I let it go. And the engine perked up some after the new air filter was installed. The A/C air filter was likewise considerably dirty. After its change I didn't notice any difference in A/C but it was clear from how it looked it was needing replacement.

For inspections except for maybe the rear diff fluid level you should check all lines/hoses for any leak sign. Check gaskets, sealed, o-ringed areas for leak sign. Check brake hoses/lines/fittings for leaks. Check shocks for leaks. IOWs, check all over for leak sign. Not to put too fine a point on it but this should be done every oil change not just every once in a great while.

Check any drive train or suspension/steering hardware for split or bad dust boots. Check any V-belt or serpentine belts for signs of excessive wear. These should be changed on schedule (at least).

Be sure all the coils are secured to their respective plug.

Check the battery connections. Might not be a bad idea to per the manual disconnect the battery and clean the battery posts and connectors. Don't have to do this every oil change but every few years.

You just want to give the entire car from bumper to bumper a good visual inspection to if there is a problem developing (mainly a leak) to recognize this ASAP and get it addressed before it becomes a bigger problem.
Thanks, I'm not sure if the mechanic will look over everything other than on the manual. Hopefully he will if I show him these suggestions. I am paying $75 for the inspection while also paying for labor for oil change, new rotors and pads, tire rotation, and parking brake adjustment
 

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I bought a brand new Dodge Ram pick up a few years back and noticed the park brake was pretty loose. I adjusted it myself, it's the two baby shoes inside the center of the disk brake rotor, just took the slack out of the cable. I want the shoes to not drag when off, but be tight when I step on the pedal, I don't like loading up the parking pawl in the tranny.

As for paying a mechanic, hopefully you have a good relationship with him, he will probably at least give it a quick once-over. I prefer to check things myself.
 

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I was just reading the manual about the cooling system, and it's supposed to be good for 10 years or 150k miles. It's also very particular about how to check it and work with it.
I'm actually worried that some oil jockey somewhere "topped it off" for me w/non-conformant (non OAT) fluid (which requires a complete flush and replacement).
 

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Thanks, I'm not sure if the mechanic will look over everything other than on the manual. Hopefully he will if I show him these suggestions. I am paying $75 for the inspection while also paying for labor for oil change, new rotors and pads, tire rotation, and parking brake adjustment
I'd not rely upon the tech to suggest a brake fluid flush and bleed. If a Dodge tech he's going to refer you to the manual and the lack of any brake fluid flush/bleed service. An indy shop tech might raise the subject but he might not as too often a customer will scream "Up selling!".

Up to you of course but at the same time the brakes are being refreshed is a good time to have the fluid flushed and bled. So just ask this service be done. As I have touched upon in other posts I learned what 2+ year old brake fluid can mean to critical hydraulic system performance. Twice. With two different cars. If you can arrange it be there to observe what the brake fluid that bleeds out of the caliper bleed screws looks like. The stuff in the brake fluid reservoir looks "ok". The stuff in the calipers. Not "ok".

While the factory states the coolant is lifetime as my auto tech buddies would stress, the lifetime of which person or which part? What happens is the anti-freeze additives that among other things help the water pump seals and hoses/seals/o-rings resist the ravages of time gets depleted. The seals leak and the water pump needs to be replaced. With coolant changes the seals/et al stay good longer. With approx. every 4 year coolant changes I've driven several cars to 150K miles without having to replace the water pump or do any repairs to the cooling system. Not even hoses. In another case at 172K miles the water pump had to be replaced. The bearings got noisy. The pump actually wore out vs. failing early due to seal leakage.

Having to prematurely replace a water pump/T-stat is bad enough, but the rule is if one radiator hose goes bad due to age/miles all radiator hoses should be replaced. With at least one of my cars replacing all radiator hoses would have cost over double what it cost to replace the water pump/T-stat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'd not rely upon the tech to suggest a brake fluid flush and bleed. If a Dodge tech he's going to refer you to the manual and the lack of any brake fluid flush/bleed service. An indy shop tech might raise the subject but he might not as too often a customer will scream "Up selling!".

Up to you of course but at the same time the brakes are being refreshed is a good time to have the fluid flushed and bled. So just ask this service be done. As I have touched upon in other posts I learned what 2+ year old brake fluid can mean to critical hydraulic system performance. Twice. With two different cars. If you can arrange it be there to observe what the brake fluid that bleeds out of the caliper bleed screws looks like. The stuff in the brake fluid reservoir looks "ok". The stuff in the calipers. Not "ok".

While the factory states the coolant is lifetime as my auto tech buddies would stress, the lifetime of which person or which part? What happens is the anti-freeze additives that among other things help the water pump seals and hoses/seals/o-rings resist the ravages of time gets depleted. The seals leak and the water pump needs to be replaced. With coolant changes the seals/et al stay good longer. With approx. every 4 year coolant changes I've driven several cars to 150K miles without having to replace the water pump or do any repairs to the cooling system. Not even hoses. In another case at 172K miles the water pump had to be replaced. The bearings got noisy. The pump actually wore out vs. failing early due to seal leakage.

Having to prematurely replace a water pump/T-stat is bad enough, but the rule is if one radiator hose goes bad due to age/miles all radiator hoses should be replaced. With at least one of my cars replacing all radiator hoses would have cost over double what it cost to replace the water pump/T-stat.
Thanks, it's an independent mechanic I'm seeing. I still have some extended warranty left. Regret not getting lifetime for 1,300 more. I guess it expires October this year wow time flies. Maybe with his inspection he could point out anything that may need warranty work. I know the adhesive on my UConnect screen should be covered under warranty as the adhesives in the screen is "melted" even though I'm parked in the garage and not anywhere hot in Socal.

Do you know if I need to buy OEM fluids to replaced the flushed and bled stuff for the brakes?

I had a coolant leak replaced under warranty at some point. I think it sounds like a known issue. Would they have done some sort of coolant service as you suggested as a result?

From July 2020: Purple/Pink stuff on the floor, should I be concerned?

Finally got the car back. Looks like they filled up the purple stuff I think coolant way above the fill line. Would that be any issues?

They confirmed the whining noise was coming from pully from the water pump. Water pump and thermostat was replaced, comes together as a unit. The advisor told me the engine is repaired. Does that sound right? Is that unit part of the engine and the engine was repaired?

I think sometime when I drive it sounds like a turbo or something when it shouldn't maybe it's the same issue that will possibly lead to another coolant leak?

Water Pump Pulley is Loose and Making Whining Sounds
From time to time you might hear a high pitched sound that comes from the front of the motor. This is typically caused by a loose belt that creates a harmonic buzzing or whining sound as it circulates. The loose belt is commonly caused by a pulley that has become loose or that the bearings that operate the water pump assembly are wearing out. Once the bearings fail inside the water pump, it means the unit cannot be repaired and will need to be replaced entirely.

If you notice there is a loud whining sound coming from the front of your motor that increases in volume as you accelerate, contact a mechanic as soon as possible to inspect your vehicle.

I do notice the whine sound and I don't have a turbo or super charged car. Maybe the mechanic can look at it


I also need to know if I should buy OEM fluids for this coolant service with the mechanic. I'm not sure if he carries OEM brake fluids and coolant fluids for the service you recommend or if have to quickly go to the dealership before hadn't to pick them up.

Thanks!
 

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Do you know if I need to buy OEM fluids to replaced the flushed and bled stuff for the brakes?
No, afaik you should be able to use any DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. If there is a specific MS.<number> requirement in the service manual then it must satisfy that criteria also.

I also need to know if I should buy OEM fluids for this coolant service with the mechanic. I'm not sure if he carries OEM brake fluids and coolant fluids for the service you recommend or if have to quickly go to the dealership before hadn't to pick them up.
I believe as long as the fluid meets the dodge MS-<number> criteria specified in your service manual it's okay to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I went and bought two bottles of the brake fluid and 1 gallon of the coolant from Dodge.
The brake fluid bottles says some dates that ends in 18 and 19. I wonder if that's when it was made or if that's the expiration date. The parts department think it's fine.

Since I had service for leaking coolant in July 2020. I think I'm fine to wait until July 2024 for a complete coolant flush and replacement service. I will do the brake fluid flush and replacement as recommended since it's been 4 years since I got the car anyways and I'm doing the rotors and pads.
 

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I was just reading the manual about the cooling system, and it's supposed to be good for 10 years or 150k miles. It's also very particular about how to check it and work with it.
I'm actually worried that some oil jockey somewhere "topped it off" for me w/non-conformant (non OAT) fluid (which requires a complete flush and replacement).
I just had my coolant changed a few months back at 5+ years old. I'm old school, and having the coolant in there for 10 years scared me. I took mine to the dealer because there is a "burping" process that I know nothing about. You have to let air out of the system, or you will have overheating issues. That's why I didn't do it myself. I have had no problems since the coolant change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Is the correct jacking point the same as the front of the car? I have the ZL1 permanent pucks for the front that says lift point. For some reason it was never suggested to get ones for the rear. I'm not sure if it's even possible or the right place to jack it up otherwise I would have added it for the rear also. I guess I thought it was suppose to be jacked up on the circle hockey puck looking thing but it's plastic and the mechanic doesn't feel it's as safe. So where is the right place to jack up the car and is it fine to jack it up without the ZL1 protective puck attachment where I had it?

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It says: No lift pads are need for the back because the car has them. I don't see how that's true unless it's referring to the circular puck thing??



Seems like people jack up their cars with this? JPK-1

So it sort of seems like that's where some people lift up the car? but is that safe when it needs to be lifted up 5 feet off the ground??

On the owners manual it seems to imply you lift where it's pictured here:

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Yes, that round hockey puck looking thing is the factory lift point in the rear. You gotta be a real stickler with some of these techs who will lift it just about anywhere else but there first. Most of them prefer the pinch weld cause it's easy to find--but unless you have an adapter for it I don't think it's safe and it could crack the rocker panel.
Liftpadpros that you linked has a beefier version you can swap in for the rear--I was actually just looking at that the other day. They also have a solution for the second lift point in the front which doesn't have anything--just a hole where it should be: they have a permanent one you can leave bolted in and they have a temporary one that you can just insert when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
How come on the manual it says to jack up the car that isn't on the round hockey puck location?

My mechanic did a pretty thorough inspection. It says there's some looseness and play pulleys on the smooth pulley and grooved pulley. My warranty ends in October this year. With the looseness should the pulleys be replaced under warranty or what would resolve the looseness. This may cause a coolant leak again if not addressed. Last time I had coolant leak all over the floor in July 2020.

After warranty, is there stronger or better aftermarket thing I could replace the pulleys or water pump to maybe resolve this weak pulley, pump, coolant leak problem that seems to be common?

Also my Bosch AGM battery shows replace on his meter print out.

The volts is 12.35V
Measured 583CCA
Rating 800CCA

Do you think the measured 583CCA is below what is normal and that it should be covered under warranty? I got it at Pepboys and I think it should still have warranty.

My mechanic also noticed that my passenger side headlight is out. It's the light on the more outer side on the passenger side. I think I have HID lights or something. It's one of the upgrades for my Scatpack I got pretty much fully loaded.

Should I replace both the light that is out and also the one that isn't out at the same time since one went out?

The part is Harison (Japan). part No. 0903110500. 35W

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Also do you guys think there is a better after market light I should replace it with or is the OEM ones better. I want a light that is legal and won't give me tickets I don't care to blind people. I just want one that is good

Also I'm having issues where my Uconnect 8.4 adhesive built in the screen looks to be melting or something it's also sometimes causing buttons to be pressed by itself as a result. I think it should be covered under warranty. My question is do you think it's possible I could get it replaced with a Uconnect that has the wireless CarPlay? Mine already has CarPlay but not wireless CarPlay. I am just wondering if they replaced all the parts without the CarPlay for the wireless CarPlay. Or I wonder if it's possible to pay the difference to have it replaced with that instead since they need to replace it anyways.
 

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What pulleys are loose? To what accessory are they a part of? Whenever I have suspected an accessory drive causing noise I hear (generally the first clue something's not right in the accessory drive system) and have removed the accessory drive belt and checked for bearing play -- the pulley moves but the pulley is securely mounted to the shaft so any movement is bearing play -- and the accessory drive with any play compared to the other accessory drives with no play, that's the one I replace or have replaced.

If a pulley of an accessory drive is loose on the shaft that's a real problem that probably requires replacing the accessory drive. If the main drive pulley on the crank snout is loose that is not normal and that needs immediate attention.

Idler roller bearing or tensioner roller bearing play is also justification for replacing these.

12.35V is below the 12.4V level which is the very lowest range of what can be considered a charged (and good) battery. Coupled with the low CCA measurement the battery is certainly suspect. But my opinion doesn't count. I think you'll have to have someone at Pepboys check the battery.

For headlights my advice is stick with factory replacements.

For the uConnect if you can get this replaced under warranty do so. I'm generally loathe to try to get a replacement plus an upgrade at the same time. Generally a warranty is same for same. You can speak with the warranty company and see if you can get a uConnect with wireless car play but there may be other things that are necessary to allow this feature to work. For that you'll have to find a shop/tech who has done this and can advise you what -- if anything -- is necessary besides just radio.

This is why I'm generally very reluctant to try to get a bad part replaced under warranty and upgraded at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What pulleys are loose? To what accessory are they a part of? Whenever I have suspected an accessory drive causing noise I hear (generally the first clue something's not right in the accessory drive system) and have removed the accessory drive belt and checked for bearing play -- the pulley moves but the pulley is securely mounted to the shaft so any movement is bearing play -- and the accessory drive with any play compared to the other accessory drives with no play, that's the one I replace or have replaced.

If a pulley of an accessory drive is loose on the shaft that's a real problem that probably requires replacing the accessory drive. If the main drive pulley on the crank snout is loose that is not normal and that needs immediate attention.

Idler roller bearing or tensioner roller bearing play is also justification for replacing these.

12.35V is below the 12.4V level which is the very lowest range of what can be considered a charged (and good) battery. Coupled with the low CCA measurement the battery is certainly suspect. But my opinion doesn't count. I think you'll have to have someone at Pepboys check the battery.

For headlights my advice is stick with factory replacements.

For the uConnect if you can get this replaced under warranty do so. I'm generally loathe to try to get a replacement plus an upgrade at the same time. Generally a warranty is same for same. You can speak with the warranty company and see if you can get a uConnect with wireless car play but there may be other things that are necessary to allow this feature to work. For that you'll have to find a shop/tech who has done this and can advise you what -- if anything -- is necessary besides just radio.

This is why I'm generally very reluctant to try to get a bad part replaced under warranty and upgraded at the same time.
The water pump, smooth, and grooved idler pulleys have excessive play causing a whining sound on acceleration and deceleration.

I'll maybe forward the battery test results to pep boys and see if it's replaceable under warranty.

The front right (passenger side) low beam bulb is out. The parts department when I was asking for the replacement said maybe the tech could take a look to see if it's an issue with the bulb, loose wire, head lamp, fuse or something. Said something about the bulb being $49each and the head lamp being $1449 or something. No idea what the head lamp is or why it costs that much. I am under warranty still so hopefully they could fix it or it would just be a bulb replacement.

I'll just have them replace them like for like for the defective UConnect. I actually thought there was wireless CarPlay but I don't think it's even available for 2022 for the Challengers.

Thanks!
 

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The water pump, smooth, and grooved idler pulleys have excessive play causing a whining sound on acceleration and deceleration.

I'll maybe forward the battery test results to pep boys and see if it's replaceable under warranty.

The front right (passenger side) low beam bulb is out. The parts department when I was asking for the replacement said maybe the tech could take a look to see if it's an issue with the bulb, loose wire, head lamp, fuse or something. Said something about the bulb being $49each and the head lamp being $1449 or something. No idea what the head lamp is or why it costs that much. I am under warranty still so hopefully they could fix it or it would just be a bulb replacement.

I'll just have them replace them like for like for the defective UConnect. I actually thought there was wireless CarPlay but I don't think it's even available for 2022 for the Challengers.

Thanks!
The tech should be the person to advise you regarding the water pump condition and the condition of the idler roller bearings.

I had two different cars -- none of my Dodges though -- manifest headlight problems. In one case the head light assembly which fit into plastic rails and then was shoved into the fender and simultaneously pulled home and held in place by a hand operated locking mechanism worked loose on a particularly bumpy stretch of I-40. I don't recall the specific stretch as there are or were at this time a number of them.

At any rate I fixed this myself by operating the locking mechanism again and ensuring the head light assembly was firmly in the housing and secure.

The 2nd time, and with a different car,I had a head light problem, well, not with the head light per se but with a turn signal lamp in the head light assembly. At first when the bulb went dark I assumed a bad bulb. But upon examination the bulb was not burned out.

The problem proved to be a very touchy bulb socket. Long story short I had to take the head light assembly out of the car -- luckily it disconnected and came out with out trouble -- to a work bench and with a volt/ohm meter check the bulb's contact with the connectors in the socket to ensure there was good contact. I had to do this about once a year. The bulb would eventually move ever so slightly and the contact would become marginal and the bulb would not work.

The "solution" was a new head light assembly -- the turn signal bulb portion was not available separately. But like you found out head light assemblies can be quite expensive. The cost to replace the one in my car was on par with the price you mentioned. I lived with the head light assembly and its sometimes touchly turn signal bulb socket connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The tech should be the person to advise you regarding the water pump condition and the condition of the idler roller bearings.

I had two different cars -- none of my Dodges though -- manifest headlight problems. In one case the head light assembly which fit into plastic rails and then was shoved into the fender and simultaneously pulled home and held in place by a hand operated locking mechanism worked loose on a particularly bumpy stretch of I-40. I don't recall the specific stretch as there are or were at this time a number of them.

At any rate I fixed this myself by operating the locking mechanism again and ensuring the head light assembly was firmly in the housing and secure.

The 2nd time, and with a different car,I had a head light problem, well, not with the head light per se but with a turn signal lamp in the head light assembly. At first when the bulb went dark I assumed a bad bulb. But upon examination the bulb was not burned out.

The problem proved to be a very touchy bulb socket. Long story short I had to take the head light assembly out of the car -- luckily it disconnected and came out with out trouble -- to a work bench and with a volt/ohm meter check the bulb's contact with the connectors in the socket to ensure there was good contact. I had to do this about once a year. The bulb would eventually move ever so slightly and the contact would become marginal and the bulb would not work.

The "solution" was a new head light assembly -- the turn signal bulb portion was not available separately. But like you found out head light assemblies can be quite expensive. The cost to replace the one in my car was on par with the price you mentioned. I lived with the head light assembly and its sometimes touchly turn signal bulb socket connections.
Hopefully the light issue is covered by warranty or is just a simple bulb replacement.
I did flush the brake fluids and replaced it with new fluids. Used two bottles I bought at a Dodge dealership parts department. I think some people mentioned something about ABS also. Is that something I should have done with the fluid service. Not sure what ABS service entails and how often I should do that.

So I think maybe I'll do the transmission, differential, and coolant flush next oil service when it's about 52,000 miles/about 6 months from now
 

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Hopefully the light issue is covered by warranty or is just a simple bulb replacement.
I did flush the brake fluids and replaced it with new fluids. Used two bottles I bought at a Dodge dealership parts department. I think some people mentioned something about ABS also. Is that something I should have done with the fluid service. Not sure what ABS service entails and how often I should do that.

So I think maybe I'll do the transmission, differential, and coolant flush next oil service when it's about 52,000 miles/about 6 months from now
I have not had access to the official factory service/repair manuals for Dodge cars but for other cars to which I have had access -- and been able to interact with the techs in the service department -- when the brake fluid is flushed/bled the ABS pump is cycled -- the factory diagnostics computer has the ability to command the ABS controller to do this -- to ensure old fluid is flushed from the ABS pump and replaced with fresh fluid.

Thus my recommendation is if you do this job at home you should have an OBD2 scan tool that has this ability to command the ABS pump to work to flush out old fluid.

I am not sure what effect the bad fluid has on the ABS pump. It is not hard to imagine what the old fluid contaminated with water could lead to degradation of the pump working surfaces -- due to corrosion -- that could compromise the pump's function. And I have to stress the ABS pump is a safety critical system. So correct and reliable operation of this is paramount. If it is only really needed one time. If the unit works like it is supposed to, or doesn't, that be the difference between life and death.

An example: I washed a car at a DIY car wash. This in winter. But the rinse water was heated. The car needed a rinsing. I drove out of the wash bay and pointed the nose of the car towards the exit driveway which intersected a main road. Too "late" I realized the car wash lot/drive was icy from the water dripping from washed vehicles and freezing. I was not going that fast and could have made the turn at the end of the drive no problem but a truck was coming. Stopping in time was imperative. I slammed on the brakes. I felt the ABS kick on. It was working overtime but working and doing its job. The car came to a stop in time even though it was on ice. Talk about impressed? I was. I said a silent thanks to those responsible for such a find piece of safety critical hardware which saved me from at least injury and maybe even death. And while I was mildly on board with flushing/bleeding the ABS when doing a brake system flush/bleed before hand, after this incident I became almost evangelical about it.
 
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