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6.1 09 manual chally
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m looking for some help or information on some possible routes I should go with my current setup (non daily) (strip/street) I just hit 45k miles (bought it at 33) and my 2nd gear synchros is shot and so is my clutch, Hoping my warranty is going to cover my tranny rebuild after reverting everything to stock and flashing it. I know the clutch is on me and I’m pretty set on the McLeod RXT 1000HP twin disk unless talked out of it. Not doing an aluminum flywheel as I hear the rpms drop like crazy and it’s not fun for the street guess I’ll stick with the oem flywheel unless there’s a better one out there besides lightened aluminum?

MY THOUGHTS: I’m looking at the HHP/BES port and polished heads intake manifold and cam kit. underdrive pulley or crankshaft pulley? I guess what I’m getting at is what order I should upgrade things in or is there a better route I can go also my limit for right now is between 7-10k that will come up overtime. 500rwp would be nice. Also I was looking at the OST dyno 60ft package which includes all BMR adjustable trailing arms camber arms toe arms and BMR solid cradle bushings do I need to get the 1 pc driveshaft Diff brace rear cradle lockout bushings differential bushings axles with this setup? Or is all of that overkill? Id like to add the power now and do the suspension stuff later. I feel like the stock setup will be fine with the little bit of power I would be getting but maybe I’m wrong
CURRENT SETUP:
Hemifever stage 1 tune w/ Diablo tuner 91 octane
Kooks LT’s 1 7/8 w/ high flows (getting the catless mid pipes since you don’t want cats while running the WOT box)
Flowmaster outlaw catback 3”
[email protected] cai
BBK 90 mm throttle body
180 thermostat
N2MB wot box
Barton shifter
Eibach dampening kit
Eibach pro sport lowering springs
Eibach front and rear sway bars
BWoody sway bar end links
Speedlogix bump steer kit
Speedlogix rear strut bar
Billet front strut bar
New ECU @ 40k
New Spark plugs @ 40k
New o2 sensors @ 40k
New Coil packs when I hit 50k
McLeod RXT twin disk 1000HP clutch @ 45k
Tires @ 39k
Hellcat replicas 20x10 20x10.5
Nitto NT555 G2’s
Rear: 305/35/R20
Front: 275/30/R20
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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1,192 Posts
I would do a stock hellcat clutch over the McLeod. Save some money while you're at it too. 500whp N/A won't come easy. For $6-7k you can get a blower on 5psi and make 550+, but an N/A 6.1 is always cool. I don't think porting the heads will do much. The only modern hemi heads worth porting are the 03-08 5.7s imo
The BMR trailing arms help wheel hop a tiny bit but don't fix it. If you have light wheel hop they should do it, if you have severe wheel hop go straight to cradle bushings or both.
Just my 0.2¢
 

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6.1 09 manual chally
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I would do a stock hellcat clutch over the McLeod. Save some money while you're at it too. 500whp N/A won't come easy. For $6-7k you can get a blower on 5psi and make 550+, but an N/A 6.1 is always cool. I don't think porting the heads will do much. The only modern hemi heads worth porting are the 03-08 5.7s imo
The BMR trailing arms help wheel hop a tiny bit but don't fix it. If you have light wheel hop they should do it, if you have severe wheel hop go straight to cradle bushings or both.
Just my 0.2¢
Okay good stuff, thank you!.. as I was looking into the hellcat clutch’s I came across a thread on here specifically about those and they were saying to go for the bad boyss clutch, essentially a viper clutch. I’ll look more into it as it’s a bit more pricey. I will start off with just the trailing arms then. What do you think of the DIRS-G diff brace? I don’t think I need a new driveshaft at 450whp.. also don’t know if I should even touch the pulleys. I want the hellion sleeper twin turbo kit in the long run.

Or if I did the blower what else would I need to upgrade around it or can i run it on stock?
 

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Premium Member
2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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1,212 Posts
If you are going to stick N/A the head porting can pull in a few extra ponies. You mentioned the BES heads. I personally think the Edlebrock RPM Performer heads are a better choice. They they flow just a touch better than the Apache heads, and you can order them polished.

Your cam choice is really where you want to do your homework. That is really the heart of the drivability of the car.

Doing the cam and heads on a 6.1 may get you close to 500rwhp but it will be a stretch. The 6.1 is already a nice running engine as is, so to JD40's point, if you go with a positive displacement SC you can pass the 500 mark with very little effort and maintain the same drivability. And FI isn't as sensitive to head porting as running NA and the 6.1 heads perform well so they will do really well with the SC as is.

As for the driveline parts just going with 500rwhp range you don't need to change anything. As JD40 mentioned if you have wheel hop issues the subframe bushings are the cure. And I have the same opinion on the clutch selection.
 

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6.1 09 manual chally
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you are going to stick N/A the head porting can pull in a few extra ponies. You mentioned the BES heads. I personally think the Edlebrock RPM Performer heads are a better choice. They they flow just a touch better than the Apache heads, and you can order them polished.

Your cam choice is really where you want to do your homework. That is really the heart of the drivability of the car.

Doing the cam and heads on a 6.1 may get you close to 500rwhp but it will be a stretch. The 6.1 is already a nice running engine as is, so to JD40's point, if you go with a positive displacement SC you can pass the 500 mark with very little effort and maintain the same drivability. And FI isn't as sensitive to head porting as running NA and the 6.1 heads perform well so they will do really well with the SC as is.

As for the driveline parts just going with 500rwhp range you don't need to change anything. As JD40 mentioned if you have wheel hop issues the subframe bushings are the cure. And I have the same opinion on the clutch selection.
Awesome info! thank you I really appreciate it, this is just what I was looking for I have spent hours and hours doing research and trying to find what mistakes not to make. My first car and I never thought I would learn as much as I have thus far and getting mechanically inclined has been a good trait. That being said I will look into the Edelbrock heads as well as the BMR trailing arms and it sounds like I’ll be going for a blower and go from there. Sometimes it’s hard to find a good true product because no matter where you go they always say they have the best and that’s there job to sell there product so it’s nice to get info from buyers.
 

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Premium Member
2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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1,212 Posts
" Sometimes it’s hard to find a good true product because no matter where you go they always say they have the best and that’s there job to sell there product so it’s nice to get info from buyers."
yeah to the quoted comment, look at the numbers/stats... And find as many reviews as you can find. Youtube can be your best friend for dyno results and people showing real-world driving. And you always have to take you're overall build into consideration. What may be a great performance modification for one build could be completely useless for a different configuration.
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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1,192 Posts
Are you planning on a lot of drag racing btw? Reason I ask is my 5.7 is over 600whp with the only drivetrain mod being bmr trailing arms. I also daily drive in 305 Mickey Thompson street SS drag radials. I'm not worried about the drivetrain yet because I'm not doing any dig racing so it's not an issue, only roll racing events.
 
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