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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This will not be a quick build, but I wanted to share what my plans are and how it goes along the way for anyone thinking about doing a swap.
Thanks to all the members who answered questions I had (have) about the swap.

The reason I am using a 6.1 rather than continuing the build on the 5.7 is
1. not that many 6.1 R/Ts out there.
2. I can continue to drive my R/T while building the 6.1 on my engine stand.

To date the block is at the machine shop getting vatted.
The cylinders will get .25 - .30 bore, and the mains will get line honed.
ARP main stud kit should be in today, the 6.1 intake is en route, and the rotating assembly decision is almost finalized.

**UPDATE: Displacement changed to 426 via 4.080 crank from K1. 3.90 crank no longer available from K1.**
I'll be going with a 3.90 6.4 forged crank from Molnar, which will put me at 408 for displacement ~6.7 liters, stock stroke for the 6.1 is 3.58 so I won't be pulling the pistons too far down out of the bore.
Forged rods & pistons will be Manley.
Heads will be off the 5.7 as they are already loaded with PAC springs good for 6.50 lift.

Compression will be 10-10.9:1 static, running will depend on the cam I go with.
I am going to get a bumpstick that doesn't have too much overlap, max of .600 lift, and a tight LSA (~113); that way when I go to forced induction (in a few years) I won't need to swap the cam again.

Injectors will be 85# from fuel injector clinic, which should be good up to the power level I plan on making with the 6.1 and a maggie. If I end up running E-85 I'll have to up it to 100s.

more to follow, suggestions welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The running total so far is going to be around $6k, but I saved about $2500 by re-using my eagle heads off the 5.7.


ARP stud kit came in yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The 6.1 intake and fuel rails should be on the way this week, thanks to a fellow member for hooking me up.
Once they arrive I'll vat them and do some clean up & porting work with my dremel (with pics).

The machine shop will be checking the cylinders to see what the piston size will need to be, then I'll be ordering the pistons. The builder doing the machine work said he likes to have the pistons on hand to ensure proper bore & hone fitment.

more to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
SRT intake manifold arrived (thanks BlackAce ).
Gotta due some minimal clean up with the dremel then it should be good to go

edit: I'll need to gasket match the intake to the eagle heads prior to install to prevent turbulence due to the larger runner ports on the SRT intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cam, K1 forged crank, K1 H beam rods, Wiseco forged & coated pistons, and bearing set ordered - total $2950
Balancing will be done at the local machine shop once the replacement OE damper and reluctor wheel arrive.
I went with 3.90 stroked crank which will put my displacement around 405-408 depending on bore.
The crank along with the Wiseco pistons will put the compression in the 10.5-11:1 range, the cam was spec'd for a max .600 lift and a power range of idle-6000...should have a nice thumpy idle also :)

Also found a gently used timing cover, and learned that the 5.7 and 6.1 (6 speed) use the same oil pan, so that saved me a little coin.

Cloyes timing set was $70.
Dorman OE crank damper, felpro front & rear crank seals were $54 after discounts from Advanced auto.

Once I get the rotating assembly in and get the cam degreed, it'll go on the engine stand in the garage at the house for the remainder of the build.

more to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what color should I paint the block? it's got the factory orange on it now, but was thinking about switching it to black & red to match the car?
thoughts / opinions welcome :)
 

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what color should I paint the block? it's got the factory orange on it now, but was thinking about switching it to black & red to match the car?
thoughts / opinions welcome :)
I like Hemi Orange, but then I'm a traditionalist. :thumbsup: Looking forward to following your build, subscribed.
 

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Hemi orange! and while you're at it, why not paint the front cover and the water pump as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hemi orange! and while you're at it, why not paint the front cover and the water pump as well.
not a bad idea :)
I was looking into an electric water pump but I don't know if anyone makes an accessory drive to support it for the 6.1
 

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Discussion Starter #10
rods, pistons and crankshaft are in.
Cam should be here later this week.

Crank balancing is on hold until the reluctor wheel arrives, modern muscle is shipping it with an estimated arrival time of Friday.

I am going to powder coat the water pump and timing cover loud orange to match the block.
I am not going to power coat the intake because it won't be visible under the AFR shaker.

Arrington makes an A/C compressor adapter for $125, I'm leaning towards this so I can prevent purging, vacuuming, and recharging the AC system.
When I am installing the accessories I'll see how it's looking. If I can keep from disconnecting the condenser coil when pulling the motor then I'll go with the adapter...if not I'll order a 6.1 AC compressor for $175.

more to follow.
 

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rods, pistons and crankshaft are in.
Cam should be here later this week.

Crank balancing is on hold until the reluctor wheel arrives, modern muscle is shipping it with an estimated arrival time of Friday.

I am going to powder coat the water pump and timing cover loud orange to match the block.
I am not going to power coat the intake because it won't be visible under the AFR shaker.

Arrington makes an A/C compressor adapter for $125, I'm leaning towards this so I can prevent purging, vacuuming, and recharging the AC system.
When I am installing the accessories I'll see how it's looking. If I can keep from disconnecting the condenser coil when pulling the motor then I'll go with the adapter...if not I'll order a 6.1 AC compressor for $175.

more to follow.
Drop the radiator from below.
-there's four bolts that hold the bottom radiator support.

>remove the electric fan & shroud as one unit
>unbolt the combo A/C condenser - power steering cooler (4 bolts)
>separate the radiator from the condenser unit
>the condenser unit can be lowered down and leave the hoses attached - it will be about at the level of the k-member
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Drop the radiator from below.
-there's four bolts that hold the bottom radiator support.

>remove the electric fan & shroud as one unit
>unbolt the combo A/C condenser - power steering cooler (4 bolts)
>separate the radiator from the condenser unit
>the condenser unit can be lowered down and leave the hoses attached - it will be about at the level of the k-member
thanks, I had to deal with that debacle when I was installing the cam a while back.
I'll be doing the engine swap in my garage with a floor jack and jack stands (no lift), so I'll need to get the chasis high enough to allow me to drop the radiator & condenser down, but low enough to allow the mini-crane to lift the engine & transmission enough clear the front end.
I will need to take the new block and current clutch/pressure plate assembly to a local shop for setup, i don't have the technical expertise to setup the clearances on the double clutch disc setup. My buddy's C5 has a double clutch setup that's dragging (not fully disengaging) due to incorrect installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
fun fact: the rotating assembly I am using is internally balanced AND double keyed.
The double keyed property requires the use of a keyed damper...the only keyed damper I have found is from ATI for ~$420.
Solution: Use a stock damper and pay $100 for a machine shop to cut a key-way into it :)

This is a better solution than pinning the crank, but required a work-around.

It looks like I am going to have to shell out $45 for a replacement crank bolt from ARP tho...

edit: the keyed crank will facilitate a future mod :)
 

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thanks, I had to deal with that debacle when I was installing the cam a while back.
I'll be doing the engine swap in my garage with a floor jack and jack stands (no lift), so I'll need to get the chasis high enough to allow me to drop the radiator & condenser down, but low enough to allow the mini-crane to lift the engine & transmission enough clear the front end.
I will need to take the new block and current clutch/pressure plate assembly to a local shop for setup, i don't have the technical expertise to setup the clearances on the double clutch disc setup. My buddy's C5 has a double clutch setup that's dragging (not fully disengaging) due to incorrect installation.
In that instance, I'd probably say remove the front fascia - you've a large mass to move around. I now remember you were one of our group that did the 392 cam swap.

What you could probably do is get the radiator out, then lower things a bit to make accessing the engine from above easier. Probably a good call on the clutch - don't want to have to pull things apart a 2nd time to fix something that's not done right.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
update

In that instance, I'd probably say remove the front fascia - you've a large mass to move around. I now remember you were one of our group that did the 392 cam swap.

What you could probably do is get the radiator out, then lower things a bit to make accessing the engine from above easier. Probably a good call on the clutch - don't want to have to pull things apart a 2nd time to fix something that's not done right.
thanks. I should have mentioned initially that I would be pulling the front fascia again, the bumper cover needs to be replaced due to rock chips.
When I pulled the fascia the first time for the cam swap it took a while because I was being extra careful and hadn't done it before, now that I've done a R&R it only takes about 1 hour each way.

I'm going to try and figure out a way to mark the AFR hood so I can remove it and re-install in the exact same location, having the hood out of the way should make it easier to use the mini-crane.

update: I'm dropping off the crank damper at the machine shop this morning, should have it back later today. The 6.1 58 tooth reluctor wheel from Modern-Muscle will be delivered later today, once I drop it off at the machine shop they can balance the crank.

Cam and new cam bearings are still on the to-do list.
More to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
started machining the SRT intake last night...gonna take a while to smooth that bastard out. I didn't realize the amount of flashing and casting marks that were in there.
Normally I would say porting an intake doesn't yield much but this thing is rough in stock form.
I've only completed some of the bulk removal, once it's closer to completed I'll mirror polish the surface.
 

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Wow that is a rough casting, I hope you can clean it up faster than what it looks like it's going to take. It's certainly going to look great though once you have it finished. :thumbsup:
 

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Cool build. It's great to see someone hot rodding an "older" Challenger. I would agree with some previous posts that the block should be painted Hemi Orange; the darker color used on the vintage MOPAR engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wow that is a rough casting, I hope you can clean it up faster than what it looks like it's going to take. It's certainly going to look great though once you have it finished. :thumbsup:
thanks.
Yeah, it's gonna take a bit of time.
I'm going to pick up the intake gaskets from the machine shop next week so I can start gasket matching the intake ports to the eagle heads...it may wind up being the other way around depending on the port size.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cool build. It's great to see someone hot rodding an "older" Challenger. I would agree with some previous posts that the block should be painted Hemi Orange; the darker color used on the vintage MOPAR engines.
thanks. I was debating getting a newer 392 or HC, but my 2010 has been paid off for a while.
And I've invested a lot of time and money to make it unique...plus there are some styling changes I don't care for on the latest release Challenger and I'm still paying insurance premiums on a R/T :) (SRT and HC insurance is ridiculous)

and I agree about the color. I think the original block paint is in decent shape so I'll have the accessories like the damper, water pump, etc powder coated to match. It should contrast nicely against the gloss black engine bay, I may need to re-spray the fuse cover and strut covers to match tho.
 
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