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Sounds like a custom keeper tool is in order. Round stock trepanned to the correct diameter for the keepers with a couple of magnets in the trepanned area. Might work.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Sounds like a custom keeper tool is in order. Round stock trepanned to the correct diameter for the keepers with a couple of magnets in the trepanned area. Might work.
Actually I was playing around with the other keeper an what seems to work well (after the fact) is placing a small magnet on the valve stem where the rocker touches the valve. Can't find the other keeper to save my life. At least I know it did not fall into the engine. I suspect it actually lodged between the exhaust manifold heatshield and head but using a zip tie to feel around I think it might have lodged somewhere on the front cradle. For a couple of bucks at the dealership I ain't going to crawl all around. I should have been more careful but man the humidity today made everything so dam slippery.

BTW I have read someone else tried to have the exhaust springs replaced in their car (think it was a challenger...don't remember now as it was on the LX forum) and a shop said the tool would not fit the closer you got to the firewall. They wanted to pull the heads. If that is going to be the case I would rather loosen the engine mounts and slide the engine over. Although if I pulled the heads I probably would have been done by now. Thank God the challenger is not my daily driver. Still would rather do this than install headers in the dead of winter...yeah that was not smart...or fun.
 

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Actually I was playing around with the other keeper an what seems to work well (after the fact) is placing a small magnet on the valve stem where the rocker touches the valve. Can't find the other keeper to save my life. At least I know it did not fall into the engine. I suspect it actually lodged between the exhaust manifold heatshield and head but using a zip tie to feel around I think it might have lodged somewhere on the front cradle. For a couple of bucks at the dealership I ain't going to crawl all around. I should have been more careful but man the humidity today made everything so dam slippery.

BTW I have read someone else tried to have the exhaust springs replaced in their car (think it was a challenger...don't remember now as it was on the LX forum) and a shop said the tool would not fit the closer you got to the firewall. They wanted to pull the heads. If that is going to be the case I would rather loosen the engine mounts and slide the engine over. Although if I pulled the heads I probably would have been done by now. Thank God the challenger is not my daily driver. Still would rather do this than install headers in the dead of winter...yeah that was not smart...or fun.
I use a telescoping magnet while messing around with those things. you can actually get them to sit together on the end and then slide them over the valve stem.
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Well during lunch I just picked up a packed of 8 keepers (I only need 1 but what the hell...it's insurance). Also picked up one of those bendable wire magnet tools. And this time I am going to lay a piece of cardboard on top of the exhaust gasket shields (should have thought of that earlier).
When I go forces Induction with a HC Cam my plan is to copy the HellCat VVT stuff and merge it into the 5.7 Tables. If this doesn’t work then I can always put the phaser limiter in and dial in the cam that way. Don’t give up yet. I think you can get it done.

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I think I will do the same but as I mentioned before, the tune for the HC barely swings the cam.
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I have seen on HP tuners where some folk recommend copying the WOT base into the normal tables for a smoother transition. So basically you take the WOT (rpm vs degrees) and copy it into the normal base table which also has airflow but you ignore. BTW I will post a link to my google drive where you can grab stock tunes of a 2015 5.7 manual, 2015 6.4 manual and a 2015 6.2 manual. I will also provide a copy of the tune that I plan on loading in the car once the cam is in this weekend.
 

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Bro that would be super helpful. I’m picking up a 6.4 this weekend and need a stick tune for it. At The tuning school the said to do exactly what you are doing for boosted applications. Copy the tables you need then modify from there. That should get you close to where you want to be with a little fine tuning you will be good to go.


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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Man, those exhaust springs are a MF'er! I guess not many folks swap the springs in they car as the usually need to remove the heads to swap out the MDS lifter. Can't believe I wasted sooo much time on the springs. First off it is hard to get a hammer to fit in between the chassis and exhaust valve head...let alone a socket to unseat them. What I found works to unseat the keepers is a thick piece of 2"x0.5" bar that you tap on the valve spring removal tool which you have push on the retainer enough to keep the valve closed while the compressed air in the cylinder pushes on the valve. Second make sure you have a strong magnet on the valve as you compress the spring otherwise one of the keepers will just fall out of the motor. Now putting the keepers back on was a b!tch especially on the far back 2 valves on both banks. What finally worked for me was to use some thick assembly grease on my fingers which helps hold the keepers in place while you feel around for the valve stem...a mirror works really well here. Watch out for the sharp edges around the spark plug holes, they are ginsu sharp! The back of my right hand is shredded.

So all the springs are finally swapped out so I can now work to get the cam swapped...finally! Perfect timing too because the high heat and humidity we had here for the past couple of days has let up. Right now I am modifying the tune so I can get it ready. I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel!
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Ok so blew apart the whole front end...front clip, intercooler, radiator...only to find out the damper is being stubborn. Not sure if it is the loctite from when I pinned the crank or if it is the crappy puller I am using. Anyways, almost there and this truly is the easy part...just disassembly. Even have the front of the car sitting on wheel cribs so I don't have to bend over as much. Life is good right now.
 

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challytatum you got this bro. When I do Spring this next time I’m doing them with the heads off. I’m working on getting a new heart for the Baby 5.7. I’ll keep you posted and thanks again for hooking me up with those stock tunes. The tables are extremely important to those of us who are crazy


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Ok so blew apart the whole front end...front clip, intercooler, radiator...only to find out the damper is being stubborn. Not sure if it is the loctite from when I pinned the crank or if it is the crappy puller I am using. Anyways, almost there and this truly is the easy part...just disassembly. Even have the front of the car sitting on wheel cribs so I don't have to bend over as much. Life is good right now.
Did you ever measure the wire diameter of these springs vs stock? Is the install height the same for both?
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
So finally got the damper off (rented the right pulley removal tool), was able to remove the AC compressor stud by heating the timing cover (bastard was stuck in the timing cover real good), used a small shop vac to suck the block off coolant (not a drop of coolant went in the pan), removed the timing chain cover (took some effort with a prybar), compressed the chain tensioner then inserted an rod in the hole to hold it in place, removed the phaser, and spun the camshaft like 30x. I greased up the new cam and go to slide out the old cam but I hear it hit something and it won't pull out! Could it be more bad luck like one of the lifters won't stay up? Dang it...I should have just pulled the heads!! Anyone have any ideas like holding up the lifter with rods that have magnets on there ends?

Well I said F'it and took another stab at pulling the old cam out. This time I turned it as I pulled on it. Just as the 2nd groove on the 1st cam journal appear it felt like it stopped spinning freely. Had to use a ratchet to get it moving again. Once I got past that snug spot the cam came out an I did not here anything drop so I guess all is good lifter wise. I quickly grabbed the lubed up 6.2 cam and carefully slid it in. Again, once I made it to the 1st journal it became difficult to slide the cam in. This time I installed the phaser and it went in with some effort but once it made it past that spot it went in with easy. The old cam looks to be in excellent shape...no gouges on the lobes or journal. Guess the hard part is finally over. Tomorrow is just reassemble once I confirm cam/crank alignment...dam chain jump a tooth so now I am going to take the oil pump off to make sure all is lined up.

Here is what the old 5.7 cam looked like...<30kmiles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Last night the oil pump was removed and you don't have to touch the pan. You just unbolt the 4 bolts holding the pump, rotate the pump clockwise so you can loosen the bolt holding the pickup tube. Use needle nose pliers to grab the threads to loosen the bolt all the way while you hold the bolt up by the capture washer with your finger. The tube can be unseated from the pump while you hold it by the flange. You can rest the flange on the oil pan lip so it doesn't drop in the pan.

978576


Reassembly is on hold until I get the timing cover coolant line tapped with a NPT thread. I am doing this because I don't trust the glued in fitting provided by magnuson.

BTW anyone know of a good way to mount and align a pinned damper/crank? Or do I have to re-drill it again? If that is the case I might modify some long pins for alignment.
 

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Excellent work ChallyTatum.... With that said, I'm very surprised you had issues with that journal. When I pulled my stock cam at around 65k it came out relatively smoothly. I took extreme care not to nick the bearing. I'm just overly cautious but you may have a warped cam bearing on that journal. Once all is done and it is back together keep us updated. I want to hear how about the results from your perspective. And again those stock tunes and tables are key for my future endeavors. Thank sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I will definitely keep you posted. I have not finished putting everything back together but might take tomorrow off to do so. I thought the cam would come out with no issue but it was really snug once I got it near the 2nd groove of the 1st journal...something I was totally not expecting...but was par for the course considering the way the swap went. I really am taking my time with the swap mainly because I am in no rush to get the car running...something I can afford to do as this is not a daily driver. I am honestly half tempted to just pull the motor out and put in a 6.2 long block but I am trying to keep this low cost as the wife is already pissed with the messiness of the garage. So far I only am in it for the cam, springs and spring tools which puts me well under $1k. I did tweak the tune but I am unsure of what to do with the spark tables but logging should help me figure that out. I really would like to get this on a dyno to see what I am pushing...500rwhp would be ideal but I am not holding my breathe.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I took extreme care not to nick the bearing. I'm just overly cautious but you may have a warped cam bearing on that journal.
I should have checked with a bore scope but I wanted to put the new cam in as quick as possible to avoid the chance of a lifter falling. A nicked cam bearing can cause issues with VVT movement but as far as I can tell everything spins freely. There is definitely something goofy with that last 1 inch of installing the cam, although there are no signs of abnormal wear on the old cam. When I put the new one in I was careful not to push too hard to reduce the risk of knocking out the cam cap in the back. Read that someone pushed too hard and popped it and they had to take the whole motor out to fix it.
 

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For reinstalling the crank pin:

You can try a dowel or steel rod that that is similar size to the pin and use it as a guide when you re-install the damper. Thanks for posting these tips/tricks. Im sure ill go through this thread when i do mine.

Last night the oil pump was removed and you don't have to touch the pan. You just unbolt the 4 bolts holding the pump, rotate the pump clockwise so you can loosen the bolt holding the pickup tube. Use needle nose pliers to grab the threads to loosen the bolt all the way while you hold the bolt up by the capture washer with your finger. The tube can be unseated from the pump while you hold it by the flange. You can rest the flange on the oil pan lip so it doesn't drop in the pan.

View attachment 978576

Reassembly is on hold until I get the timing cover coolant line tapped with a NPT thread. I am doing this because I don't trust the glued in fitting provided by magnuson.

BTW anyone know of a good way to mount and align a pinned damper/crank? Or do I have to re-drill it again? If that is the case I might modify some long pins for alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
For reinstalling the crank pin:

You can try a dowel or steel rod that that is similar size to the pin and use it as a guide when you re-install the damper. Thanks for posting these tips/tricks. Im sure ill go through this thread when i do mine.
Straight pins won't work without machining a significant portion down to half diameter. Since dowel pins are usually hardened this will require grinding. Instead I plan to 3D print an alignment jig but I have a feeling I will just need to drill new pin holes. Also turns out I will need to fab a bolt to use with the pulley remover in order to install the pulley. The fittings supplied in the kit are too short to work...always something.

BTW if anyone needs the magnuson fittings that go into the water pump and timing cover I have a set I will be getting rid of. Don't want anything for them just pay for shipping. I will reverse engineer them and post dimensions for those who bought a used kit that did not come with the fittings.
 

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ok, gotcha! that was the 1st thought since i haven't done a damper install yet.

Are referring to the fitting on the right side? The right side on mine did not need a lot to pressure to install but the left side was tight. I asked the dealer about it but no respond but i think the hose clamp is the one that's holding it in place. No leak so far. Good luck man! Hope you get it running soon.

Straight pins won't work without machining a significant portion down to half diameter. Since dowel pins are usually hardened this will require grinding. Instead I plan to 3D print an alignment jig but I have a feeling I will just need to drill new pin holes. Also turns out I will need to fab a bolt to use with the pulley remover in order to install the pulley. The fittings supplied in the kit are too short to work...always something.

BTW if anyone needs the magnuson fittings that go into the water pump and timing cover I have a set I will be getting rid of. Don't want anything for them just pay for shipping. I will reverse engineer them and post dimensions for those who bought a used kit that did not come with the fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
ok, gotcha! that was the 1st thought since i haven't done a damper install yet.

Are referring to the fitting on the right side? The right side on mine did not need a lot to pressure to install but the left side was tight. I asked the dealer about it but no respond but i think the hose clamp is the one that's holding it in place. No leak so far. Good luck man! Hope you get it running soon.
The fittings I am referring to are the ones supplied in the Magnuson supercharger kit that essentially is glued into place. One installs into the water pump and the other to the back side of the timing cover near the intake. I removed mine and used NPT to barb fittings (tapped the water pump and timing cover with a 3/8 NPT tap).
 
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