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Discussion Starter #1
Now that there are quite a few cam swaps out there... With any cam swap I expect general drivability and even mileage to change.

How is the drivability of your car?
How affected is your city and highway mileage?
How is the cam in low speed city driving? Is the responsiveness better at low speeds? How is highway cruising?

While not as aggressive as the Comp VVT cams, the 392 cam is quite a jump from the stock Eagle setup.

Thanks!

Mike
 
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I think the lack of response is because this is mostly answered in the various other 6.4 Cam threads...

I was curious to see if anyone would chime in so we could have a concentrated thread on those questions and answers instead of having to read through 15+ page threads to find the answer.

I to am curious to know if there is any increase, decrease or the same type of MPG in the city/highway as well.
 

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I did the cam swap, heads, and headers at the same time so I may not be a perfect representation of what you are looking for. My driveability was really no different at lower RPM. The big change happened at 4k. The car just went into beast mode. Which doesn't sound good on paper but if you think about it it kind of works out better that way. If you give your car the beans from a stand still you are fighting for traction. So from idle to 4k you are driving pretty much normally without any or much added power. But when you hit the the 4k range, where we play when we race, you feel a 60hp difference.

My MPG only dropped by an average of 1MPG.

I'm finding that increased power at lower RPM is not really that fantastic. I have a E-Force which is a screw type SC and while fun to spin the wheels as I please. I liked how my car was set up NA a little better where it was normal driveability down low and whoah up high. In retrospect maybe I should have went turbo or centri type SC. We'll see how my final tuning goes and if it smooths out some of the dislikes I have about the driveability of the SC.
 
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Two words: excellent driveability

Normally aspirated, stock manifolds, CMR tune (Diablo e-mail tune)

MPG: slight drop city ~ 1.25 from stock
hwy - similar, but haven't taken extended drives to explore further

Custom tune brought out more low end power (over canned 91 CAI tune), mid and extended upper end power output.

The only other 'side effect' is the EVIC shows lower MPG than actual...the tune may throw off how the system calcs, but its no biggie...
 
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Hal H

Normally aspirated, stock manifolds


>>> is this Exhaust or intake manifold or both? I would like 60 to 80 HP more in the future..
 

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Hal H

Normally aspirated, stock manifolds


>>> is this Exhaust or intake manifold or both? I would like 60 to 80 HP more in the future..
Both - the add'l 12hp from changing the exhaust vs. the cost of parts (I'd favor the clamshell SRT manifolds for mitigating heat in engine bay vs. aftermarket shortys), mid-pipes, labor, its not worth $1k to me for the small gain.

Time and again most of the guys (local shop that works on a lot of Hemis) recommend pull the heads when changing out exhaust...now that's a lot of work, even if doing it yourself.

Paying for someone to that, you can imagine the $$ for that.
 
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My ride was already s/c'd but I did not notice any gas mileage decrease from before aside from flooring it. The main thing I noticed as well as others was the sound idling and driving. Which now sounds more like a muscle car.

Very pleased with the results it also idles well not really lumpy.
 

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Gotcha on the clam shell, but do you change the intake manifold, and replace it with A 6.1 aluminum one from the 6.1?
 

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Gotcha on the clam shell, but do you change the intake manifold, and replace it with A 6.1 aluminum one from the 6.1?
One could do that - but I'd imagine the composite 5.7 (and now the 6.4) would run cooler compared to the AL manifold of the 6.1. It certainly is more to look at from the aesthetic point of view.
 

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so normally when people do cam swaps and ported heads and clamshell exhaust they stick with the 5.7 composite manifold?
 

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I did the cam swap, heads, and headers at the same time so I may not be a perfect representation of what you are looking for. My driveability was really no different at lower RPM. The big change happened at 4k. The car just went into beast mode. Which doesn't sound good on paper but if you think about it it kind of works out better that way. If you give your car the beans from a stand still you are fighting for traction. So from idle to 4k you are driving pretty much normally without any or much added power. But when you hit the the 4k range, where we play when we race, you feel a 60hp difference.

My MPG only dropped by an average of 1MPG.

I'm finding that increased power at lower RPM is not really that fantastic. I have a E-Force which is a screw type SC and while fun to spin the wheels as I please. I liked how my car was set up NA a little better where it was normal driveability down low and whoah up high. In retrospect maybe I should have went turbo or centri type SC. We'll see how my final tuning goes and if it smooths out some of the dislikes I have about the driveability of the SC.
Just got my Cam delivered today but won't be installed until the Spring because I decided to wait until I get the headers.How much total HP did you get from the Heads, Headers, and Cam?
 

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Just got my Cam delivered today but won't be installed until the Spring because I decided to wait until I get the headers.How much total HP did you get from the Heads, Headers, and Cam?
I got 60. It's been not just my results that surprisingly heads really don't seem to do much. Not at this level at least. I think I am seeing a little better performance from my SC because of the heads. But for just a cam and headers, no need to do the heads too. Just swap the springs. I think Arrington has a kit.
 
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so normally when people do cam swaps and ported heads and clamshell exhaust they stick with the 5.7 composite manifold?
My Intake Manifold stayed in place until I got my Edelbrock. From what I've seen gains from the 6.1 intake are minimal and they are much more susceptible to heat soak.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I think the lack of response is because this is mostly answered in the various other 6.4 Cam threads...

I was curious to see if anyone would chime in so we could have a concentrated thread on those questions and answers instead of having to read through 15+ page threads to find the answer.

I to am curious to know if there is any increase, decrease or the same type of MPG in the city/highway as well.
Thanks, you understood why I made the post.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you to everyone for posting!

Glad to hear that the cam is very street-able! I got mine, I just need to order valve springs. I can't decide if I should find SRT manifolds or not.

Mike
 

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Thank you to everyone for posting!

Glad to hear that the cam is very street-able! I got mine, I just need to order valve springs. I can't decide if I should find SRT manifolds or not.

Mike
I found the cam is smooth in everyday driveing. It makes steam in a NA or FI motor. On the FI side there are better cams yes. But for the coin, well worth it. For me doing a swap is no big deal beacuse I do all my own work. If I had to pay for it i may of made another choice.
This way I played with this cam over the summer and got alot of data, Im soon to go to another cam more suited for the blower from Modern Muscle. I then will have some really cool data of my own.
Its a bigger better cam than the old regrinds of the past. And a whole lot better than the little stock 5.7 cam.
Hal has good info on the swap.
FlatTop
 

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Thank you to everyone for posting!

Glad to hear that the cam is very street-able! I got mine, I just need to order valve springs. I can't decide if I should find SRT manifolds or not.

Mike
You'll also need mid-pipes (these include the cats) - the flanges and angle are different from the 5.7 and that's why you need to change those to complete the installation.
 

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I go back and forth on this cam. I already have SRT8 shorties and mids and the 392 Intake manifold installed. My thought is that the cam would work well with these upgrades. From what I have read the heads flow enough until you have gobs of horsepower. Modern Muscle has some cam options for the 2011 and up engines, but is the difference in price worth any gain differences?
 

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I go back and forth on this cam. I already have SRT8 shorties and mids and the 392 Intake manifold installed. My thought is that the cam would work well with these upgrades. From what I have read the heads flow enough until you have gobs of horsepower. Modern Muscle has some cam options for the 2011 and up engines, but is the difference in price worth any gain differences?
It makes a difference - now the thing to weigh out.

Even with the OEM 6.4 cam (stick version) now having a higher price (list of $292) vs. the former $82 list price, the other options are in the $700-800 range and likely produce similar results with NA engines.

If one were going with FI, a short duration cam may be the way to go (OEM 6.4 duration is 286*/Int 288*/Exh), but for NA engines, the 6.4 is still a good choice for less $$.
 

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It makes a difference - now the thing to weigh out.

Even with the OEM 6.4 cam (stick version) now having a higher price (list of $292) vs. the former $82 list price, the other options are in the $700-800 range and likely produce similar results with NA engines.

If one were going with FI, a short duration cam may be the way to go (OEM 6.4 duration is 286*/Int 288*/Exh), but for NA engines, the 6.4 is still a good choice for less $$.
I don't ever plan on going FI...NA for me.. I was all for the Modern Muscle cam from AMP but the last guy although had great numbers at AMP when returning to TN had similiar numbers to a 392 cam. For the price I would go with a 392. I was at 346hp/352TQ before the Intake manifold swap. I will get to the same dyno after the holidays to see what the improvements have been. I would be happy with 376hp at the rear wheels but with decent torque. Money and decisions, hmmm
 
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