I'm sorry but I find that statement to be completely ridiculous.
People drag race their street cars with street tires and are nowhere remotely close to an optimal drag race setup. Just because they aren't running full slicks and 90/10 weight transfer shocks etc. doesn't mean they can't go out and have a good time enjoying their car. Same for a road course. So what if it doesn't run as cool as a dedicated proper racing setup. As long as the user knows the limitations and keeps an eye on parameters etc. and maybe changes oil after each event etc, there is no reason to not go out and enjoy some track days. By your account then there should never be a street legal car doing any kind of racing ever. Save racing for only true dedicated race cars. And that goes against absolutely everything that any car guy / hot rodder has ever wanted.
Was not talking about drag racing. But drag racing brings with it is own problems that can quickly show up the car's weak points. In your statement above probably a good thing the owner is not racing on full slicks because the grip is less than optimal. Otherwise the drive shaft or even diff would fail.
You chose to ignore the post in which the OP mentioned oil temperatures to 300F and even after he changed his driving style oil temperature was in the 280F range.
280F is based on my info too damn hot for oil on the track for a car that serves as a dual purpose car. I offered in a earlier post the advice he find a way to bring that oil temperature down but to be sure not to over cool the oil when the car was used on the street.
There is the oil temperature but another concern I have is the oil system, the volume and quality of the oil the oiling system can supply the engine under track conditions. G-forces are quite high on the track -- naturally -- and the oil is affected by g-force and this will have the oil move forward under braking, rearward under hard acceleration and to one side or the other under cornering. 'course, there are combinations of acceleration/cornering or braking/cornering that really the oil in the pan can be anywhere but gathered/concentrated around the oil pump pickup.
Even if the oil level doesn't fall that low that the oil pump sucks air the oil level is low -- a considerable amount of oil is suspended as droplets/vapor in the crankcase -- and what oil is in the oil pan may not have had time to lose is aeration. Even on the dyno it is not that rare of an event for the oil level to get so low that the oil returning to the pan with its air gets picked up by the oil pump and the air in the oil results in partial hydraulic lifter collapse and the engine's output near red line falls off as the collapsing lifters alter valve lift and timing.
So the OP can deal with the obvious problem of elevated oil temperature but it might not be until a bearing is spun he becomes aware of the marginal oiling the engine receives on the track
But if the owner wants to continue to use the car on the track and subject the engine to this elevated oil temperature, and run the risk of inadequate oiling, that's his business.
As for servicing, the OP said he changed the oil before an event and good for him. Since it is a dual purpose car changing the oil after a track event is a good idea, probably a requirement unless the OP likes playing Russian Roulette with the engine.
There has been no mention of the transmission fluid and diff fluid. These are subjected to excessive heat and the components they lubricate certainly see high loads. While probably not necessary to change before or after every track session once a "season" might be a very good idea.
I've done some motorcycle racing and some auto crossing. The amount of work to prepare and keep even something as simple as a motorcycle with an air cooled single cylinder engine ready for the track after serving as a week day ride was huge. And more than once when something vibrated loose did I realize I missed something.
The auto crossing was not that long or fast of a course to really heat the oil up that much. But it still required fresh oil the day before the event and a thorough inspection of the car. It is my habit to not drive a car with small issues like a "small" coolant leak or oil leak, or a slow tire leak, etc., so I didn't have to deal with these before hitting the auto cross course but one still has to stay on top of things.
For a large/heavy and powerful car like a Challenger with the 6.4l engine a number of things will require attention. One can't let the brakes get too worn. The brake fluid gets plenty hot and needs to be changed. It should be flushed/bled before each event to ensure the fluid is as fresh and water free as possible. And it might not be a bad idea to flush/bleed it again after an event.
Tires are another concern. A dedicated set of wheels fitted with track tires that one can also use to drive the car to/from the track. And hope one doesn't pick up something in a tire on the way to/from the track.
Wheel bearings. Wheel bearing failure on a street car is a rare event in my experience. My 2002 Boxster manifested a bad wheel bearing at around 80K miles but that is the only bad wheel bearing any vehicle I have owned has ever had, over nearly 1M miles of driving. But a car like the Challenger used on the track several times a year wheel bearings might need to be replaced on a yearly schedule and maybe more often if the bearings manifest signs of distress before a year is up.
Have to mention one really can't use the track and the car's behavior on the track to let him know something needs attention. A bad wheel bearing on the street might/probably does give some warning. On the track the bearing might suffer a catastrophic failure that could result in a loss of control of the car. Likewise one can't let a suddenly soft brake pedal be a signal it is time to flush/bleed the brake fluid.
A coolant leak could dump coolant on the track ahead of the rear tires and coolant is nearly as slick as oil. If the car doesn't go off the following car could.
Thus the car owner must be proactive and service/replace on a much more aggressive schedule. This can run into a considerable expense.
Not many are really prepared to spend the money, the time, to ensure the car is in tip top shape for track day.
Not a few car buyers believe/assume and certainly desire that they can take their car to the track and run wild and free. But tracking puts a huge amount of stress on the car, its cooling system, its oiling system, the drive train, the brakes, power steering.
A good number of automakers do not want to burden every car with the additional cost it takes to make the car track worthy. The payoff is just not there.
So while the car is perfectly suitable for use on the street a number of weaknesses become evident when the car is subjected to track use. It is not a good idea to ignore these when they appear. Better in fact is to address these *before* showing up at the track.
This does not mean the car can't be tracked. What it does mean is the owner has to be able to monitor vital signs and when for example the oil temperature climbs to unsuitable level to back off. But this can require cutting the session short by a considerable amount of time and the owner may not be willing to do that. All that prep time and money he has expended to get to this day/time weighs heavily on his right foot.
