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every once in a while,the transmission sticks in a gear. I have to yank the stick to get it out of gear. Its random which gear{reverse 4-5-6}. I KNOW when I bring it to the dealer,i will not be able to duplicate the problem. Any help is appreciated.:SM030:
 

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Sounds like the wrong grease was used on the trans input shaft and that's causing the slave/throwout to stick. This is a known, and unfortunately common, problem on the earlier 6-speeds. When you talk to the dealer tell them to reference Star case K38556860.
 

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Look up "skip shift eliminator" :yesnod:
That won't fix his problem. The skip-shift doesn't cause the transmission to get stuck in gear.
 

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every once in a while,the transmission sticks in a gear. I have to yank the stick to get it out of gear. Its random which gear{reverse 4-5-6}. I KNOW when I bring it to the dealer,i will not be able to duplicate the problem. Any help is appreciated.:SM030:
To duplicate the problem: In reverse, back up an incline and come to a stop while still on the incline (do not put the parking brake on) shut the car off while still in reverse. Your transmission will be damn near impossible to shift out of reverse at this point (if you have the wrong input shaft grease).
 

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To duplicate the problem: In reverse, back up an incline and come to a stop while still on the incline (do not put the parking brake on) shut the car off while still in reverse. Your transmission will be damn near impossible to shift out of reverse at this point (if you have the wrong input shaft grease).
I was able to do that with 1st gear, either nose up or downhill. Didn't take much load on the driveline to trigger it when it got bad enough.
 

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Yahooligan is probably right. If you have a 2009, they did use the wrong grease and too much of it.

Here's the official info:


Case Number: S1021000004

Release Date: 2010-11-04

Symptom/Vehicle Issue:

Transmission is hard to shift into and out of any gear when stopped.


Diagnosis:
When the vehicle is running, but at an idle, verify the vehicle condition by depressing the clutch pedal and attempting to position the transmission gear selector into any gear. If there is difficulty when

attempting to shift into any gear, perform the outlined repair procedure. Excessive grease on the input

shaft splines collecting excessive amounts of dirt which does not allow smooth movement of the
clutch disc on the input shaft.




Parts Required:
1 P/N 05083150AA , (Grease) As required.
2 P/N 06508880AA , (Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts) 6 Required

Repair Procedure:

1 Remove the transmission as outlined in the service procedures.

2 Clean the transmission clutch hub splines and input shaft splines with mineral spirits.
3 Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as outlined in the service procedures.

4 Clean the splines on the pressure plate with mineral spirits. Be sure to not allow clutch disc

to become saturated with cleaner.
5 Once the residual solvent has evaporated from the splines on the clutch hub, input shaft
and clutch disc, sparingly grease the entire length of the clutch hub and input shaft splines.
6 Install the pressure plate and clutch disc as outlined in the service procedures. Be sure to
use new pressure plate bolts during re-assembly.




Verification:

Bring vehicle to operating temperature. When at an idle, depress the clutch and attempt to move gearshift into each gear. There should be no resistance and the gearshift should move freely into all gear positions.
 

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My 2010 does the exact same thing. I did complain about it before my warranty expired but they could not replicate the problem at the time. Now my warranty is up will they fix this for free or not?
 

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In another thread on this forum a six speed RT owner gave a review of his car's performance since he had bought it. He said he had some issues with the transmission. Mostly iirc with it not shifting smoothly going into and out of some gears. He said he drained the six speed and refilled with it with a synthetic gear lube of the same viscosity. And since that time it has shifted smoothly with no reoccurence of the issues he had prior. Just thought I would mention this. Might be something to discuss amongst yourselves or try.
 

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In another thread on this forum a six speed RT owner gave a review of his car's performance since he had bought it. He said he had some issues with the transmission. Mostly iirc with it not shifting smoothly going into and out of some gears. He said he drained the six speed and refilled with it with a synthetic gear lube of the same viscosity. And since that time it has shifted smoothly with no reoccurence of the issues he had prior. Just thought I would mention this. Might be something to discuss amongst yourselves or try.
I replaced my factory fluid with Red Line C+ATF at 28k miles, it shifts sooooo much better now but if I'm not careful I'll still get a one-time nibble/grind going into second when cold. That hasn't happened for a while now, though, so maybe the new fluid has finally worked its magic.

That said, changing the fluid won't fix a sticking actuator.
 

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My 2010 does the exact same thing. I did complain about it before my warranty expired but they could not replicate the problem at the time. Now my warranty is up will they fix this for free or not?
There is a bulletin out on this issue - its a documented case, so you may have a leg to stand on, esp if you have a record that you went in for the problem under warranty.

The 2009s have a lifetime powertrain warranty, which can help also. The first dealer I went to said I needed a new clutch (which I did not), but then I found another dealer that fixed it for a friend of mine with the same issue, so I used them. It ended up costing me a $50 co-pay!

I felt it more in the clutch travel than in the shifter.

But you have a 2010 so it should have the right grease from the factory.

I posted this thread about it a while ago: http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/dealer-fixed-my-sticking-clutch-80647/index2.html
 

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But you have a 2010 so it should have the right grease from the factory.
If only. I had the same problem with my 2011. (7/7/11 build date).
 

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There is a bulletin out on this issue - its a documented case, so you may have a leg to stand on, esp if you have a record that you went in for the problem under warranty.

The 2009s have a lifetime powertrain warranty, which can help also. The first dealer I went to said I needed a new clutch (which I did not), but then I found another dealer that fixed it for a friend of mine with the same issue, so I used them. It ended up costing me a $50 co-pay!

I felt it more in the clutch travel than in the shifter.

But you have a 2010 so it should have the right grease from the factory.

I posted this thread about it a while ago: http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/dealer-fixed-my-sticking-clutch-80647/index2.html
Was the $50 co-pay part of the lifetime powertrain warranty that came with the 2009 R/T Challengers?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the help !!!! lucky that the drive train is warranty for life on the 2009's. I'll try to duplicate the problem on an incline and see what happens. As of now, it is an a occasional problem maybe once every three weeks-but now I'll watch and see if it happens on inclines and i never put 2 and 2 together. :thinkerg:
 

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Howdy Tom good to see some of the old crew still around.
I had the exact same problem on my car that started at around 40,000 KMs and it took 5 trips to the dealer for them to fix it. The problem will get worse and mine go so bad that it would lurch ahead while sitting at a red light.
Yohooligan and Crush have the correct info posted that is causing your problems hopefully you will not have the issues alot of other have had trying to get it fixed.
 

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"Crush" post #8 is the answer to the problem. He and I went and had the job done. You can do it now or you can do it later...but your gonna have to get it done. If it's stuck in gear, shut the car off and move it out of gear. Yanking on the shifter will damage the synchros eventually.

HEY "Crush"! See you on A-1 (C).
 

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Was the $50 co-pay part of the lifetime powertrain warranty that came with the 2009 R/T Challengers?
The actual clutch is not part of the warranty since it is a wearable part. What saved me was the fact that it is a known, documented problem, and it wasn't the clutch, but rather the grease. I was happy to pay the $50 since they were going to fix it, so I didn't really question it.

Hey 3Peddles!
 

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I was worried about this. 2010 R/T and it happened once early on. but recently has gotten worse and worse. The car has 26k on it.

I am happy i came across this thread. lifetime powertrain on the car. I will let you know how it turns out
 

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I was worried about this. 2010 R/T and it happened once early on. but recently has gotten worse and worse. The car has 26k on it.

I am happy i came across this thread. lifetime powertrain on the car. I will let you know how it turns out
At 26k they'll cover the bearings and actuator but depending on how long it's been hanging up and what the clutch looks like they may tell you that you need a new clutch. If you have a decent dealer then you'll just be out the cost of the clutch, if you have a jerk dealer then they will say you don't know how to drive and the clutch overheated which caused the problem and then you'll be on the hook for a new clutch and about 6 hours of labor. :( My dealer is a jerk, even with the star case info.
 
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