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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My quest for the Brembo upgrade on my 2011R/T is coming to an end. I have managed to get all the major components minus one Front LH caliper. In doing so I have learned a bit and thought I might pass it on.

Knuckles: For anyone with a 2011 car you might be aware that it is a bastard year. Chrysler decided to change some things and then the very next year, change them again. The rear knuckles that the Brembos attach to become one year only. Not only that, they are very expensive($1060.00). So if one can find a totaled car to get the upgrade, it would be well worth the effort. Trouble is, try finding a totaled 2011 car let alone a SRT. So for me the quest began. What can I use as a substitue. Well, come to find out, the 2010- SRT knuckles are the same geometry. Only defference is that there is added material on the 2011+ that isn't on the 2010- for further geometry development. Retail for the 2010-, $542.00. Now we are getting somewhere. Now, what happened in 2012? What is so different that I can't use that one? The added casting was used to make the knuckle beefier and relocate the Toe link location for 2012(its lower). The cost for those, $272.00. Now we're talking. Bought!!!!!!!!!



Spindles: Situation becomes similar. 2008 is 2008 only. 2009+ is all the same(a geometry change). Retail is $754.00ea. Mind you, this is the same spindle used on ALL LX cars. That said, I did a search on a multi part search website and found a LH in NC for 170.00 Shipped. Two weeks later I found the RH for the same price. Bought!!!!!!!!

Brembos: There are front/rear, left/right. They are the same as on all SRT LX's and SRT WK's. They are $532.00 front and $557.00 rear. Good thing about these is that they can be had from CL or ebay when shopping for used fairly cheap. I found a set of rears from a SRT GC for $275.00 shipped. What I did find though is that Cardone sells them as Reman's. If googled you can get the fronts for as cheap as $138.00 shipped.

All thats left are lines and backing plates. Rear BP's are $19.70ea. Fronts look to be the same. Brake lines RR are $33.75 and fronts look to be the same.

For rotors and pads, I'm going to one of the upgrade places mention on this forum.


Knuckles: $375.00

Spindles: $340.00

Calipers: $413.00

Rotors/Pads: $400.00

Backing plates/hoses: $80.00ish


All in all, about $1625.00 for a complete upgrade. And no used rotors or pads to deal with. Not too shabby. A complete used set up would cost anywhere from 1300.00+. Only thing is, try finding it.
 

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Was it worth the upgrade or not? How does the car pull when you hit the brakes?
 

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Dude,
Thanks for the info; let us know how the install goes and how well it functions once on.
 

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Following...
 

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Now, what happened in 2012? What is so different that I can't use that one? Come to find out, Chrysler added more Camber to the rear for better handling, hence the added material they added for 2011 but didn't use.
Where did you come to find this information? Because this goes against the specs and the word of mouth from Ralph Giles as the 2011's were hitting the street. All 2011+ have revised Front and Rear Camber (More Negative than years prior) on the SRT models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Was it worth the upgrade or not? How does the car pull when you hit the brakes?
I'm Installing over the winter. And taking in for an alignment in the spring.

Where did you come to find this information? Because this goes against the specs and the word of mouth from Ralph Giles as the 2011's were hitting the street. All 2011+ have revised Front and Rear Camber (More Negative than years prior) on the SRT models.
I'm not stating there isn't any difference in alignment specs. I'm talking strickly of parts and for a 2011 alternative. As you all know, alignment can be changed many ways (ball joint location, length of links/arms...etc....). It don't have to happen just by one specific part. The spindle PN's for 2009+ LX's are the same: 05039030AD and 05039031AE. The geometry change was more than likely done with the ball joint location on the upper control arm(part numbers for 2010- are not the same as 2011+). As far as the rear, without giving out too much info about myself, I can only go by what I was told by an Engineer I trust to be solid. The casting was changed to beef it up more and to protect for future geometry changes. Part numbers have changed between 11 and 12 on the Camber link and the Compression link in the rear. I have some more homework to do. If they are the same length and hole location, I'm golden. If not, I will be changing those as well to get the 2012 spec's. We shall see when I take her in for an alignment. This was all food for thought. I was just providing some info. I don't expect people to just go out and do this. I will be the guinea pig. But if it all works out, its an option for those 2011 car owners that want the upgrade without spending the StopTech prices. Time will tell. When I do it, I might do a write up on the change over as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Where did you come to find this information? Because this goes against the specs and the word of mouth from Ralph Giles as the 2011's were hitting the street. All 2011+ have revised Front and Rear Camber (More Negative than years prior) on the SRT models.
Toxic11

Good catch on what you quoted in my quote in BOLD. I corrected my info in OP. Casting was added to change Toe Link location for 2012.
 

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This sounds like a pretty big project, with many specific parts required. Looking forward to the results with confirmed required part numbers. Thank you for your research.
 

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Toxic11

Good catch on what you quoted in my quote in BOLD. I corrected my info in OP. Casting was added to change Toe Link location for 2012.

Cool thanks for the additional info! Great writeup by the way! We wouldn't mind seeing LOTS of high quality photos of the process too, if you don't mind! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
More homework completed. Camber link and Compression link part numbers are different between 11 & 12 as stated before. What changed (on both parts) was physical, not dimensional (center to center bolt spacing). The 2012 Compression link looks to be a machined casting vs's the 2011 three piece welded construction. The 2012 Camber link has become much beefier. All these links (with the exception of the Compression link) are common between the R/T and the SRT8 cars. The compression link is dimensionally the same so I would think the difference is the bushing composition.
 

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Great stuff man. First, Diablo finally cracks the code, and now there is a glimmer of hope to upgrade to Brembo's for us R/T guys. Things finally looking up for R/T owners. Lead the way Chargerdude.
 

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I have been rocking Brembo brakes from a wrecked SRT 8 for about a year now. I only had to reuse the rear R/Ts Spindles. My is a 2011 and the breaks were off a 2009. Got the whole package of eBay for $1200. Cleveland pick a part on eBay is the place to look.
 

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The question is are the Brembo brakes so much better than the R/T brakes that the hassle and expense of installing them is worth while?? At what point are you better off just buying a SRT8?? Can the R/T brakes be modified to come close to Brembo performance for a street car??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have been rocking Brembo brakes from a wrecked SRT 8 for about a year now. I only had to reuse the rear R/Ts Spindles. My is a 2011 and the breaks were off a 2009. Got the whole package of eBay for $1200. Cleveland pick a part on eBay is the place to look.

Thats all good when you can find a wreck. It's just not happening every day. The SRT's bring big money as salvage title cars. I checked the multi parts listers for rear knuckles and came up with nothing. Luckily I found the front spindles out of 2 different states. I received the Cardone re-man front caliper the other day. Looks like new and is a Brembo casting, just needs painting. I have everything now. I should be starting the conversion over the holiday(hopefully).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The question is are the Brembo brakes so much better than the R/T brakes that the hassle and expense of installing them is worth while?? At what point are you better off just buying a SRT8?? Can the R/T brakes be modified to come close to Brembo performance for a street car??
My front rotors started pulsing at 10,000 miles. I did a search on here like everyone else does and found it a common problem. Then saw what most were doing with this BIG brake upgrade. http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f37/r-t-owners-heres-your-affordable-big-brake-solution-70169/. That was nice and all, but by the time you purchased all the parts I figured why not go all the way for a bit more? Plus I just like the challenge and tinkering with my car. I have already changed my supension over to SRT and now am doing these brakes. You ask why just not get a SRT? In total I have less than 2000.00 in SRT suspension, brakes, and exhaust. If and when I decide to install a 6.4L, I will still have less than half of the 15,000.00 price tag a SRT would have cost me more over my Base R/T. After the SC is installed, it will be about the same but with 100hp more. Will it be a true SRT, no. But who cares. I don't plan on selling it anyway. The wife won't let me.
 

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I first considered the $1200 used Brembo take offs from Cleveland Pick a Part, but personally couldn't take the risk with the used rotors in that set up. Sure, they could be fine, however not knowing was too much of a crap shoot for me. The last thing I needed was more pulsating.

After researching and installing http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f37/r-t-owners-heres-your-affordable-big-brake-solution-70169/ I was able to install new, SRT top of the line cryo treated slotted rotors and pads on my R/T for under $1K. The OEM R/T front calipers are the same as what comes on recent base model Corvettes and work fine on my car. I also installed stainless braided brake lines a few months ago and the further improvement in peddle feel was impressive. My R/T brakes are now confidently strong without any pulsating what so ever and I've yet to have them fade, even after slowing from triple digit speeds.
 
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I went with Cleveland Pick-A-Part for the complete set-up they were a local pick up for me and they make sure all the main components are in like new condition or new the front rotors were new as the ones that came on the car had gouges in them. I did change out the pads as I wanted new also added the stainless braided lines and changed the fluid to a Dot4.

The biggest issue is making sure that the knuckles weren't damaged (ie bent)
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, finally got around to installing the Brembos. All went as planned. All that is needed is to bleed the brakes and take for a spin. I will be taking to the dealer afterwards to have them align the suspension to 2012 SRT spec's. All my R/T brake lines were salvageable with some modification. The front Brembos do not require splash shields and the rears were the same(on my 2011, YMMV). Only specialty tools needed other than a standard metric set were a 12mm allen socket, a 1 1/4" socket for the rear axle nut and a set of star sockets(male and female). All for the rear knuckle removal. All was done from the floor with jack stands and floor jack.
 
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Nice that you followed up.
 
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