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Discussion Starter #1
Both service lights came on last night and went off a couple times and finally stayed on. It had been raining so I figured it might have been water on one of the wheel sensors. Parked the car for about 4 hours hoping they would dry out because the weather had moved on but the lights were still on. It was about a hour drive to the house and the lights stayed on(no cruise control on the interstate). I cranked the car up today and the lights had cleared and no messages displayed in the DID.
I planned on going to the dealer in the morning since the car is under warranty but since I am no longer getting service lights, will they be able to identify a problem (maybe something stored in the computer). Just wondering if anyone has had the lights come on and back off. I usually don't drive it around during the week but I am going to drive it more to see if the lights come on again. Sure it will eventually pop back up.
The car did seem to drive a little different with the lights on but maybe that was in my head. I would like to get this issue resolved before it acts up somewhere it does not need to. I have only had the car a little over a month and this is the first time I have had it out on a wet road. I turned on the traction control when I first left home because I heard the Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires are not rated to well for hydroplaning.
 

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2015 Dodge Challenger SRT
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Your diagnosis of a bad wheel speed sensor is correct.

Sensors rarely fix themselves so I'd be proactive and at least get things checked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Wizard, I plan on going to the dealership in the morning and see what they say. I do have a little buzz in the exhaust when it cranks up that it was not doing. I can get both issues checked out. I have never dealt with this dealership since the one I purchased the car from is too far away.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Both service lights came on last night and went off a couple times and finally stayed on. It had been raining so I figured it might have been water on one of the wheel sensors. Parked the car for about 4 hours hoping they would dry out because the weather had moved on but the lights were still on. It was about a hour drive to the house and the lights stayed on(no cruise control on the interstate). I cranked the car up today and the lights had cleared and no messages displayed in the DID.
I planned on going to the dealer in the morning since the car is under warranty but since I am no longer getting service lights, will they be able to identify a problem (maybe something stored in the computer). Just wondering if anyone has had the lights come on and back off. I usually don't drive it around during the week but I am going to drive it more to see if the lights come on again. Sure it will eventually pop back up.
The car did seem to drive a little different with the lights on but maybe that was in my head. I would like to get this issue resolved before it acts up somewhere it does not need to. I have only had the car a little over a month and this is the first time I have had it out on a wet road. I turned on the traction control when I first left home because I heard the Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires are not rated to well for hydroplaning.

Drive all the way to the dealer with the service lights on (30 minutes) and when the service advisor comes to look at the car the lights are off. I drive it around for 30 minutes and still no lights. So no codes displaying, service department cant check. I set up an appointment for another day so I can leave it, and when I go to leave, the lights come on. I left it right then and hope the lights stay on for the mechanic to see.

Brakes were acting kind of funny while I was driving it around trying to get the service lights on. Hopefully that was something to due with the speed sensor. The car is a 2015 with 4,400 miles and an in service date of 6/2017. They kept telling me there was a $149 computer charge if it wasn't under warranty. Anybody know why this wouldn't be under the warranty?
 

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I think the $149 thing is just a cover-their-ass blanket statement. There's no reason that I can think of why you're not covered under warranty. After all .... it's a 36-month/36,000 mile warranty and you're well within both.
 

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2015 with 6000 miles on it. I used my Blue Driver scan tool to identify the right front wheel speed sensor. Swapped it out myself in my driveway. A straightforward job took about an hour including jacking car and taking off wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It was the left front speed sensor and covered under warranty. Car is back to driving normal. I might have to get me a Blue Driver scan tool for future use.
 

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Drive all the way to the dealer with the service lights on (30 minutes) and when the service advisor comes to look at the car the lights are off. I drive it around for 30 minutes and still no lights. So no codes displaying, service department cant check. I set up an appointment for another day so I can leave it, and when I go to leave, the lights come on. I left it right then and hope the lights stay on for the mechanic to see.

Brakes were acting kind of funny while I was driving it around trying to get the service lights on. Hopefully that was something to due with the speed sensor. The car is a 2015 with 4,400 miles and an in service date of 6/2017. They kept telling me there was a $149 computer charge if it wasn't under warranty. Anybody know why this wouldn't be under the warranty?
There should be a OBD2 code history when they plug in to it, right? So whether the light is on or off it should still be recorded. $149 is pretty steep to plug in to the port, jeez. The only thing I can think of is it's a diagnostic fee to determine whether the problem is covered under warranty. If it is, then they'll hopefully deduct that fee.

edit: ah, looks like it's taken care of.
 

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I had the same happen on mine. Check this out: a couple months after I had the left front replaced on my '15 SRT, the car threw the same code... this time for the front right. However, now the car was no longer under warranty. However, the dealer fixed it free. He explained: these two cases are related. He believed that there was nothing wrong with the second sensor, but that the computer sensed over time that the two resistance ratings weren't the same after the first one was replaced. Eventually it threw the code: he believed they were related. He said they should have replaced both front sensors at the same time to prevent this.

But even if I had to pay for it, it was a really cheap repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just had the codes pop up again.Maybe it's the other side this time. Got to take it back in for the actuator for heat on the drivers side so I can get it done the same time. Hopefully this is not a reacurring event. I know it's a cheap fix but dislike going to the dealerships. Not impressed with the service in Mobile. At least both issues are under warranty.
 

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I had the ABS/ESP/BAS warning lights come on in my 2009 SRT. After a scan, it was determined to be a bad wheel sensor on the rear passenger side. The new sensor fixed the problem.

(Note- The ABS fault will not be identified by a cheap scanner, like the ones used at Autozone. Also, it will not be displayed on your EVIC using the "key trick." You need a more sophisticated scanner).
 

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2015 with 6000 miles on it. I used my Blue Driver scan tool to identify the right front wheel speed sensor. Swapped it out myself in my driveway. A straightforward job took about an hour including jacking car and taking off wheel.
Hey thedude ,

The Blue Driver scan toool I see for $99 will identify the bad wheel sensor? I was lead to believe I would have to purchase a more expensive code reader for that level of ability. The last code reader I bought was a big disappointment. Any other features on the Blue Driver that make it a great product for the 2015s or is it a goood time to invest is a reader with more functionality?

Appreciate the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It was the front right sensor this time. Maybe they should of replaced both when the first one went out. I ordered a BlueDriver and it should be at the house tonight. Hopefully won't need it for wheel sensors for a while but if I have to use it I will post if it identifies which sensor.
 

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Dealer says I need left rear sensor, I'm can change it my self, does anyone know if the lights will go out after I drive it or do the codes have to be cleared with a scanner?
 

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Dealer says I need left rear sensor, I'm can change it my self, does anyone know if the lights will go out after I drive it or do the codes have to be cleared with a scanner?

The light will clear itself after a few miles. I just replaced mine on the right front.
 

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Doubt anyone will still be reading replies from this post but has anyone been able to confirm Blue Driver will read this issue and say which wheel sensor needs replaced? 2nd time mine has come on and I’m not paying $200 at the dealer to get one sensor replaced again
 

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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) No personal info, but if no one can answer


A Guy
 

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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) No personal info, but if no one can answer


A Guy
Thanks for the reply! I went ahead and ordered a blue driver through amazon since it has free returns if it doesn’t work out. I will definitely update this when I confirm if it will isolate the wheel.
 
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