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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone help with a process to flush ABS without scanner?
Maybe enough Key On/Offs with caliper open?
 

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A scanner is the best way to insure that the ABS module is totally bled. You can buy an Autel MaxiPro scanner from Amazon for $175.
 

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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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For years it was dealer (or shop with a Starscan type tool) or bust on the ABS bleed. Luckily, tech finally trickled down and it can now be done with commonly available devices/apps. I use the AlfaOBD app with OBDLink MX device myself but had considered an Autel or Foxwell unit as well. When the automated ABS bleed is activated you only need to open the bleeders on the passenger side a couple times each while it cycles. Super easy.
 
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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Can anyone help with a process to flush ABS without scanner?
Maybe enough Key On/Offs with caliper open?
1) Drain/fill brake fluid normally through preferred bleeding process.

2) Find abandoned roadway which is long enough to allow several hard braking events.

3) Take car and go drive fast and then brake hard several times on that road.

(The intent is to engage the ABS functionality, thereby releasing the dirty brake fluid being held in the ABS unit, and which gets replaced with the fresh brake fluid just put into the master cylinder.)

4) Bleed brakes again to remove the dirty fluid expelled by the ABS activation.

—————————

Think of it as the poor man’s approach to bleeding the ABS 🤓
 

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Yeh, I will use a down hill off-ramp when its wet and no traffic to function test and cycle my ABS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
THX all!

1) Drain/fill brake fluid normally through preferred bleeding process.

2) Find abandoned roadway which is long enough to allow several hard braking events.

3) Take car and go drive fast and then brake hard several times on that road.

(The intent is to engage the ABS functionality, thereby releasing the dirty brake fluid being held in the ABS unit, and which gets replaced with the fresh brake fluid just put into the master cylinder.)

4) Bleed brakes again to remove the dirty fluid expelled by the ABS activation.

—————————

Think of it as the poor man’s approach to bleeding the ABS 🤓
I thought of this, looked at diagram, do not see a return pipe.
Sooooo, could any real amount of fluid move out from assembly through the pipes?
(Seems like something downstream would have to be open during cycle, or have a return pipe.)
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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THX all!



I thought of this, looked at diagram, do not see a return pipe.
Sooooo, could any real amount of fluid move out from assembly through the pipes?
(Seems like something downstream would have to be open during cycle, or have a return pipe.)
I honestly don't know. I've drained/flushed the brake fluid on every LX I've owned over the last 10 years, and I've never attempted to get the ABS system flushed out any of the times I've done the fluid change. This hillbilly shortcut is one I've heard before and figured I might use one day, but just haven't yet...

I vote you give it a try and let us know how effective it was :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I listed my Bluedriver, got a MX+, spent my google savings on alfa....
For lack of winter ice (so easy to trigger ABS), I kept coming up with scenarios that involved hurting 2 cars in the driveway.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Can anyone help with a process to flush ABS without scanner?
Maybe enough Key On/Offs with caliper open?
If you are going to bleed the brakes get a tool that will allow you to cycle/operate the ABS pump to flush old brake fluid from it.

IOWs, do the job right.

Attempting to use the car in such a way to cause the ABS to activate in order to "flush" the fluid from the ABS system and replace it with fresh fluid is a shade tree mechanic technique and as shade tree mechanic techniques go not a very good one at that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well, the moons aligned and I got the job done!

I:
punched some venting holes in my backing plates ( 4 holes each, where no rubber bushings to cook),
brush painted that,
color sprayed my rotors and brackets (machine paint),
polished my calipers,
replaced hoses with Stoptech ss/nylon,
and flushed all to Bosch 3/4/5.1

After, oh, 10 trips through the Alfa software...
"Repeat front right again" also includes changing over to the left side, on both ends.
It pumps 3 to 5 times on 1 opening of bleeder.

I never saw it say left, but lefts both squirted on right commands - apparently same 'text box' used - but procedure did get to "Completed".
Also, a couple of times I re-opened just before it said to - stopped the software - somehow it knew!
1026252
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I'm gonna keep replying to my own thread - maybe help/inspire someone.

I had read a brake 'white paper' from Centric that said first two things to do were open the backing plate for radiant heat discharge (done, untested yet, I hear all SRTs come open) and nylon/stainless hoses (also done, with the 3/4/5.1 fluid).

After 3 or 4 weeks of driving, my butt dyno is telling me:
If I am in a slowing turn and need to modulate just a bit more brake, I'm overshooting how much to apply. Slowly learning that applied brakes are more responsive. I believe the fluid and/or the replaced rubber hoses were flexing, and that flex/waste is eliminated - just like the book!

I waited and did paint, holes, hoses and fluid all at once for cost and work minimization.
Also, the polished (just the viewable areas) calipers still look great - worth the time.
 

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This is a great tech bulletin to review before a brake fluid change. Thanks for the content.
 
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