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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a weird issue with my ABS lights, and I've searched and searched but not found a great answer to the problem.

I have a 2013 Dodge Challenger SXT with about 150,000 miles. All four wheel speed sensors have been replaced in the last year or so. I've also experienced the "Improbable wheel speed" error in the past, which was fixed by replacing the rear right wheel sensor.

The ABS and Traction Control light are on, cruise control doesn't work, etc etc. My code reader (Bosch 1100) can read engine codes fine, but under ABS it reads "ABS SYSTEM NOT DETECTED". I checked the ABS relay fuses under the hood, both the 30 and 50 amp ones seemed OK. I didn't see anything brake related in the trunk fuse box.

I did a sanity-check on my 2014 Jeep by unplugging a wheel speed sensor and driving around in the yard until the same lights came on, then checked the codes to make sure my code reader wasn't bad. It's not.

Recently it was in the body shop for about a month for some paint damage, and I had to replace the battery in the trunk, but other than that I've not done much of anything to it.

Any ideas?
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Based on what you posted -- that your code reader was able to read ABS codes which you caused on purpose with your Jeep (my hat is off to you, that was some clever thinking) but when connected to your Challenger only could report the ABS system not detected -- my WAG as to what is wrong is the ABS module is bad. But given how expensive this is you want a high confidence diagnosis not some WAG by some no name half baked know it all on the 'net.

In the mean time you can check the electrical wiring/connections of the ABS module looking for any obvious signs of a loose connector, damaged wiring. Fuses that "seem to be ok" is not good enough. There's too much riding on this. You need to test the fuses to ensure they are all ok.

Might add a car in the body shop a month and maybe set to one side for several weeks to make way for higher priority cars might have received some rodent attention...

(Years ago I had my '96 Mustang in for some work. The parts were back ordered and I was in a loaner. The Mustang was shoved out and off to one side in a gravel parking lot with more high weeds/grass than gravel. The car was done in about a week's time. When I got the car back and opened the hood to just give the engine compartment a sanity check I noticed it had a number of snails in the engine compartment. I was picking mostly dead snails off the engine compartment surfaces and off the engine for a time afterwards.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, I'll try to take a look at the ABS module wiring first thing in the morning. I've watched a few youtube videos on it but I'm not super confident on troubleshooting it. Any pointers?

As far as the fuses- I swapped the one with the windshield wiper fuse and tested it that way, and the other with the radiator fan. I'll dig out my multi-meter tomorrow and see if I can figure out anything else.

if I end up having to replace the ABS module, do I have to replace the entire assembly, or just the computer part?
 

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Not sure what kind of code reader you have but AlfaOBD is a pretty powerful software. Paired with an BT OBD interface like OBDlink MX or MX+ it will rival pro and witech style scanner systems. One thing you can do with it is try to re-initialize the ABS module with it and you can run active diagnostics like cycle the ABS solenoids to make sure the module is working and communicating properly with the CAN bus.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Thank you, I'll try to take a look at the ABS module wiring first thing in the morning. I've watched a few youtube videos on it but I'm not super confident on troubleshooting it. Any pointers?

As far as the fuses- I swapped the one with the windshield wiper fuse and tested it that way, and the other with the radiator fan. I'll dig out my multi-meter tomorrow and see if I can figure out anything else.

if I end up having to replace the ABS module, do I have to replace the entire assembly, or just the computer part?
I have nothing to offer specifically for checking the ABS module.

Checking the wiring you want to run your hands along the wiring feeling for any damage to the insulation, roughess which can be from rodent damage.

Be suspicious if you see the wiring harness is not held securely/properly but factory wiring gromets. Often if a car is worked on whoever works on it can fail to route the wiring properly, secure it properly. This can leave to movement of the wiring and the wiring can become compromised.

You want to be sure all connectors are secure. In some cases I recommend disconnecting a connector then reconnecting it. This removes the surface corrosion that can degrade the signal the connector carries. (I "fixed" a camshaft position sensor error by just disconnecting then connecting the sensor to the wiring harness.)

At first glance with an ABS system not detected one would think would be something more than a lightly corroded connection but if the code reader issues a command to query for devices on the bus and this is not received by the ABS controller it won't respond.

Sorry, but I can't help you regarding what's involved in replacing what is causing the problem. This assumes the problem can be addressed by replacing something. My limited experience is techs can have a series of diagnostic checks/tests to determine the root cause of the problem. Generally when something is found bad the entire assembly is replaced. The factory does not intend for many sub assemblies to be field serviceable. IOWs, if the tests confirm the ABS system is bad the ABS is unbolted and a new one installed. There is no replacing this valve, that o-ring, even the controller which may not be replaceable.
 
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