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Discussion Starter #1
I was given a near mint 6.4 cam the other day and I’m that guy that never has a lot of money so almost all of my mods are done with me and 1 or 2 buddies I’m sure y’all know where I’m coming from we’ve been able to do a lot with very little n that being said the cam swap I’ll have to have a motor guy on I know which will eat up the majority of my savings so I was hoping some one out there would know the absolute cheapest way to do this mod as to where the engine will last a long time and still b able to get a good hp return for the $ and the efforts what I really need is a list of parts that I’ll need and where to get them if not eBay or Amazon ive been reading this forum ever since I got my 2014 r/t and ive been blown away with the knowledge that y’all have been able to share with one another I think it’s awesome and hopefully I’ll b able to pass along some of the things I’ve learned through the years as well
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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First off what year challenger? If it is a +2015 you will need to have the PCM cracked ($250).

Cheapest wat to do the swap is to not remove the heads which makes installing the upgraded springs a bit of a pain. The performance springs can be had cheap (~$5 a spring). Everything else (lifters, pushrods can be reused)

I still would recommend at least getting a timing chain cover gasket, oil pump oring, and new valve cover seals.

FYI - I recently did a budget 6.2 cam into a 5.7 which highlights the tools (spring compressor...damper puller/installer) needed to do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was given a near mint 6.4 cam the other day and I’m that guy that never has a lot of money so almost all of my mods are done with me and 1 or 2 buddies I’m sure y’all know where I’m coming from we’ve been able to do a lot with very little n that being said the cam swap I’ll have to have a motor guy on I know which will eat up the majority of my savings so I was hoping some one out there would know the absolute cheapest way to do this mod as to where the engine will last a long time and still b able to get a good hp return for the $ and the efforts what I really need is a list of parts that I’ll need and where to get them if not eBay or Amazon ive been reading this forum ever since I got my 2014 r/t and ive been blown away with the knowledge that y’all have been able to share with one another I think it’s awesome and hopefully I’ll b able to pass along some of the things I’ve learned through the years as well
I have a 2014 rt
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a 2014 rt
Also I left out my car is an automatic I read the link u sent me great info am understanding this right that to do this u only have to swap out the springs for the Mopar performance springs and upgrade the lifters i didnt see where he said which lifters would b best to go with do u happen to know and thank u so much for your help I really appreciate it so much
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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The stock lifters of the 5.7 are the same that are used by the 6.4 so no need to upgrade the lifters. If you replace lifters with non-MDS you need to remove the heads which now means you will need head gaskets and head bolts.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Correct. Only difference between a 5.7 and 6.4 are the springs and cam. Although, you might be able to get by with the 5.7 springs but for $5 a spring for a better spring that can handle up to 0.62" lift...why not just replace them.
 

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2019 Dodge Challenger RT
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90 Posts
Showing my ignorance here, but how the heck do you swap out the springs without taking the heads off?
 

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2019 Dodge Challenger RT
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90 Posts
Nope, wait, I think I see. We're talking just removing the valve covers as opposed to taking the whole shooting match off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It can be done (in fact I did it on my swap) but is a pain in the arse.
U have been most helpful thank u for taking your time to help me i truelly some day some how I can return the favor all though I’ll have to say your knowledge base is so far a head of mine it’s embarrassing but who knows maybe something will come up what I’m saying is thank u so much I really do appreciate it ive got a lot of stuff that I’m doing to turn this into my dream car it’s the only car I’ve ever owned that I really like and enjoy driving so I just want to make it the best car that I can and I have no doubt with good people like yourSelf out there that my dream will def come true
 

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Definitely do-able if you check out some youtube videos, my bet is your car is going to be down for at least a few days if you’re in the driveway so get ready for that.

Also, make sure your cam came out of an auto car and not a 6 speed, or else you have no choice about the lifters. Goodluck OP
 

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2010 Challenger R/T Classic
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118 Posts
I'm doing exactly what you're doing. 392 cam into an A5 Challenger R/T.


OEM 392/6.4 cam $79.95 (+$100 FCA core charge) (HighHorsePerformance.com)
Individual Mopar Performance Valve Springs ($4.29 x16) $68.64 (MoparOnlineParts.com)
Enginetech Timing Cover Gasket Set $14.12 (Rockauto.com)
Mopar Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring $4.03 (Rockauto.com)
Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gaskets $21.79 (Rockauto.com)
Snap-on Valve Spring Compressor $143.50 (snapon.com)

Keeps MDS lifters, so no MDS Delete Kit is required. Also uses special valve spring remover (Snap-on) to swap out springs without removing heads. Valve springs are Mopar performance springs (up to .625" lift) that are bought separately (16) and use stock retainers. Pushrods are the same as the ones in 6.4 engines, so it's not necessary to replace them--they'll take the abuse. All that's needed is the OEM 6.4 cam with MDS grind, timing cover gasket kit, oil pump tube o-ring, and valve cover seals (not technically required).
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Don't forget the damper pulley tool. Makes the removal and install of the damper waaay easier. BTW be careful on how you install the valve covers...it is quite easy to roll the seal and cause an oil leak that drips on you exhaust. Also, if you can swing it get the comp cam pushrods the stock ones are really not that good quality.
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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475 Posts
Ok I just did this about 1,200 miles ago on my car. First thing I'd say is if you have more than 40k miles, id 100% change lifters without even thinking about it. You're throwing a brand new cam in with higher lift, do you really want to risk rolling a lifter and eating up a cam lobe? It is honestly an easier job when pulling the heads anyway. Only took me about 40 min to pull the heads after I put mine back on and had coolant pissing out the side of the block. (Put head gaskets on wrong sides cost me $300 and another week cuz I tried to rush it). Secondly I'd definitely invest in a new timing set as well unless its low mileage. I even changed oil pump while i was there as well just cuz I got one for free. As far as special tools you need a good torque wrench for atleast 50ftlb and another for the 100-250lbs to use for crank pulley bolt. These can be rented from autozone for free if u dont have one. To save time and money on the crank pulley installer, u can leave a heat gun on the inside of the pulley for a few minutes then slide it on, it will go in like butter almost all the way, enough to just use the NEW crank bolt to finish off.As far as parts you should change in the head, definitely springs, I used mopar performance for about $5 each. I also got new valve stem seals which were very cheap since they are very easy to change while springs r off anyway. And I went with Manley pushrods from HHP $120. I'll say it again, make sure the cam and crank bolts are replaced as well as head bolts ofc. Whatever you think you'll spend doing this, you'll actually spend double that. The cheapest way of doing it is doing it right, the first time. So rockauto gaskets and bolts and seals, hhp pushrods, mopar springs. You will need a valve spring tool I have the one made for hemis but if heads r off the universal c clamp style will work fine too. If you need any tips or help with the job I can definitely help u out, I've done 3 gen 3 hemi cams in my driveway since August lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm doing exactly what you're doing. 392 cam into an A5 Challenger R/T.


OEM 392/6.4 cam $79.95 (+$100 FCA core charge) (HighHorsePerformance.com)
Individual Mopar Performance Valve Springs ($4.29 x16) $68.64 (MoparOnlineParts.com)
Enginetech Timing Cover Gasket Set $14.12 (Rockauto.com)
Mopar Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring $4.03 (Rockauto.com)
Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gaskets $21.79 (Rockauto.com)
Snap-on Valve Spring Compressor $143.50 (snapon.com)

Keeps MDS lifters, so no MDS Delete Kit is required. Also uses special valve spring remover (Snap-on) to swap out springs without removing heads. Valve springs are Mopar performance springs (up to .625" lift) that are bought separately (16) and use stock retainers. Pushrods are the same as the ones in 6.4 engines, so it's not necessary to replace them--they'll take the abuse. All that's needed is the OEM 6.4 cam with MDS grind, timing cover gasket kit, oil pump tube o-ring, and valve cover seals (not technically required).
I think the cam he was given was used...not new.
its a used cam that looks great i cAnt say thank you enough for all the info y’all have armed me with I’m chomping at the bit to get into this but after talking to y’all I spent all last night ordering parts now comes the wait hopefully everything will show up soon
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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BTW if you plan on doing the swap you might want to pick up a 6.4 manifold, apparently it gives more gains.

Swapping the 5.7 cam for a 6.2 (I am running an SC) really woke the car up. I still have not got it dyno tuned but I have it running pretty darn good...at least when it is warmed up...still have a lopey cold idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
BTW if you plan on doing the swap you might want to pick up a 6.4 manifold, apparently it gives more gains.

Swapping the 5.7 cam for a 6.2 (I am running an SC) really woke the car up. I still have not got it dyno tuned but I have it running pretty darn good...at least when it is warmed up...still have a lopey cold idle.
I already did they just havnt arrived yet exhaust manifold intake manifold is holly sniper efi
 
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