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I have a 2017 Scat 6M and on cold starts my exhaust rattle is so bad it sounds like metal grinding for a couple seconds, after the car is warmed up its barely noticeable. The sound is cringe-worthy and I was curious if anyone has come up with a solution on how to remove these without throwing a code. As of now I do not want to drop the money on a "Active Exhaust Simulator/Delete kit" when you should just be able to trick the car into thinking they're still hooked up. Curious if anyone has looked into this.

Here's the way I see it (someone let me know if I'm way off on this). Being that there's only 2 wires running to the valves, this means that the car is doing the modulation of the current/voltage applied (ie. The valve isn't a variable resistor, rather it just opens and closes based on what the car supplies). So if this is the case then the valves have a set resistive value. If someone were to find the correct resistive value of the valve, you should be able to jump those 2 terminals. Thus making the car think it still has valves hooked up. This would prevent people from having to run trunk simulator kits, when they could buy a resistor for somewhere in the 10s of cents range and just lop those annoying things off of the exhaust.

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Discussion Starter #3
When i took the exhaust i thought there was 2 but that could be from the optimism and me convincing myself the solution was that simple

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Unfortunately I don't believe it's that simple. They valves don't simply have a full open or full shut option, the % open depends on engine rpm and drive mode selection so it's a bit more involved. Also something to consider if you have MDS (not sure if you have an auto or not), I can't imagine the 4 cylinder sound with valves deleted or always open would sound very good at all. I would take it to the dealer and have them replace the valves and get rid of the rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have the manual so I'm not particularly worried about the sound. I also have a muffler delete so it very well could be the root of my issue so i would prefer to just get them out of the exhaust. Im sure the added heat hitting the valves from the lack of mufflers has caused the damage in question

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I have the manual so I'm not particularly worried about the sound. I also have a muffler delete so it very well could be the root of my issue so i would prefer to just get them out of the exhaust. Im sure the added heat hitting the valves from the lack of mufflers has caused the damage in question

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Gotcha, that makes more sense given your situation. I would think that since the valves vary their position that it would be a varying voltage going to them with a feedback wire back to the ecu. I wonder for the sake of further exploring exactly how they work if you could measure the voltage during a cold start when the valves are full open and slowly close as it warms up. If there is a liner relationship to the supplied voltage and the feedback voltage to the ecu then I would imagine it wouldn't be too hard to simulate that.

I read another post on here of another member who wanted to put a scope into the exhaust to see exactly how open and shut the valves are in different situations. Not sure if he's done that already or not, can't remember who it was.
 

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That's definitley possible the only problem i see is that the car immediatley throws a code if the valves are u lnplugged so the odds that you could just unplug them and measure the voltage across the 2 terminals is pretty low. Therefore it might stop supplying anything once it realizes they're unplugged. It would he an interesting experiment though

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That's definitley possible the only problem i see is that the car immediatley throws a code if the valves are u lnplugged so the odds that you could just unplug them and measure the voltage across the 2 terminals is pretty low. Therefore it might stop supplying anything once it realizes they're unplugged. It would he an interesting experiment though

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True, you wouldn't be able to unplug them and get the same readings. If you have a tester with a sharp point to pierce the wire or can get the tester lead into the back of the plug you could test it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Without damaging anything the only way i see would be with a current probe and oscilloscope, and to buy one of those you might as well spend the money on a delete kit. I'd definitley like to figure that out though. Maybe chen i get a chance i can throw it up on the lift and see what information i can gather

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They will replace your exhaust rattle system for free...it will be one that does not rattle....works great. it took them an hour.
 

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There is a kit available to lock the valves in the open position and also fool the PCM into seeing the actuators still operating the valves.
 

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I read another post on here of another member who wanted to put a scope into the exhaust to see exactly how open and shut the valves are in different situations. Not sure if he's done that already or not, can't remember who it was.
I know @bwbike did it

@WorkPlayDrive made a video


A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My main issue right now is the actual valve is making a horrendous noise, whether its in normal mode, sport mode, or the rear 36 (active exhaust system) fuse is pulled the noise would make any car guy cringe, ill have to look into getting them replaced

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