adding factory heated seats

INSTALLING THE SWITCHES:

okay, lets start with the heated seat switches. the best and easiest way to go is buy a used radio bezel with the heated seat switches in it. these normally go for around $75 to $100 on ebay. i got lucky. a good friend gave me his silver bezel with switches. i just swapped my heater control panel and non ESP switch to the new bezel.

my original non-heated seat bezel compared to the new heated seat bezel


once you have the radio bezel off, you can dig around behind that bezel for the right heated seat wire harness connector. pull it out from its hidden corner and then look for the left heated seat wire harness connnector. that one is outside of the radio bezel area. it is hanging there just behind the WIN module (ingition switch). i removed the lower dash panel to gain access to that area. once you find that connector, you need to fish it around and to the back of the radio bezel area.

here is where i found the black 8-way connector for the right heated seat switch. it was taped off to the right side of this pocket behind the heater controls.


the left connector is dangling under the dash by the WIN module. locate that black 8-way connector and fish it behind the heater control panel.


once both connectors are behind the heater control panel, you can plug them into the switches.


reinstall the bezel. notice the switches will light up when the headlamps are on. but they will not control the seats just yet. we still have a lot more work to go.


INSTALLING THE MODULE:


okay, next step is remove the passenger seat. there are just two connectors for the seat. unbolt the seat and unplug those connectors. once the seat is out, lift up the front half of the carpet at the seam. the module snaps into the two slots in the floor brace. install the module and plug in your pigtail wire harness for the module. it is a black 6-way connector. i got it from a donor car with about 2' of wire.



SPLICING IN THE MODULE HARNESS:

the heated seat module has one black 6-way connector. you need to splice these wires into the main wire harness that runs along the right rocker panel. remove the carpet sill trim and lift up the carpet to expose the wire loom.





pin (1) black w/white stripe is the ground
pin (2) red w/yellow stripe is the fused B(+)
pin (3) light green w/brown stripe is the left seat heater B (+) driver
pin (4) light green w/violet stripe is the right seat heater B (+) driver
pin (5) white wire is the CAN B (-)
pin (6) white w/orange stripe is the CAN B (+)

tap and splice pins #1, #2, #5, #6 into the main wire loom. just color match them and solder them together. these are the 4 main wires, the two power wires and the two CAN B bus wires. doing this adds another ECU to the CAN B bus and requires programming.

here is what those 4 wires look like tapped into the main loom


ADDING B(+) DRIVE WIRE TO C314 CONNECTOR for RIGHT SEAT:

now you have to wire in the two driver wires for the left and right seat. lets start with pin #4 of the 6-way module connector. this wire is the power wire for the heating pads in the passenger seat. it will connect to the light gray 8-way connector (C314) pin #3 cavity. just loop the light green w/violet stripe from pin #4 of the module to pin #3 of the light gray 8-way connector. it is the cavity above the yellow w/white stripe wire.

now, to get the correct metal pins to add to this C314 connector, you can buy the repair harness from the dealer. it is part #68068651AA. it will come with 8 loose wires and the empty 8-way connector. you will need to use only 2 wires from the kit. one driver wire for each seat.

basically pin #4 of the heated seat module connector to pin #3 of the 8-way passenger seat connector.

here is a picture of that wire added to the 8-way connector


ADDING B(+) DRIVE WIRE TO C313 CONNECTOR for LEFT SEAT:

the drive wire for the left seat is the light green w/brown stripe wire from pin #3 of the black 6-way from the module. you have to lengthen this wire and feed it to the drivers seat area. i splice a length of yellow wire onto the pigtail.

as you can see in this picture, the light green w/brown stripe is taped to the loom and heading toward the rear seat area and back around to the left rocker.



and fish the left seat drive wire to the drivers seat by following the main loom.


now, unbolt and unplug the drivers seat and move it out of the way. you can now finish routing the power driver wire to the left seat area. look at the gray 8-way connector. this is the one you need to add the heated seat B(+) drive wire to pin #3.

here is that C313 gray 8-way connector.




and here a chart that explains each pin on connector C313 (gray 8-way)




continued on the next post................................

i used a yellow wire from my donor connector C314. i removed this wire so i could add it to C313 for the drivers seat. i needed it for the metal end on the wire.

here is my donor wire getting ready to add to the gray 8-way under the drivers seat.


i didn't really show you how to add this wire to cavity #3 on the passenger side, but i will this time. you need to remove the red plastic lock insert on this connector. just push down on the center tab and pry it up and out of the connector.



here is the back-side of C313. you can see that there is no wire in cavity #3.


now install the wire like this. look carefully at this picture so you don't insert the metal tab upsidedown in the cavity. push the wire all the way in until you hear it click and lock in place.



then reinstall the red locking bridge into the connector. the connector should now look like this.


next, retape the wire with the harness.




now splice this wire with the wire you fished over from the heated seat module. remember i used a yellow wire. now splice these two wires together. solder them and shrink wrap insulation over the bare wire.




tape the harness back up. now you can lay the carpet back down and you are done with all of the wiring.




i ran out of room on this thread. it won't let me add any more pictures.

continued on post #5....

ADDING HEATING PADS TO THE SEATS:

if you are swapping your seats for another set that is factory heated, install them and move on to the programming part of this write-up. otherwise, you will need to add the 4 heating pads. lets start with the lower cushion. just remove to two bolts that hold the lower cushion to the seat frame. remove the electrical connectors from the metal seat pan.

here is the lower cushion removed from the seat frame and the leather skin removed.

next, peel the tape off the adheasive strips on the back of the heating pad and place it on the seat foam like this.


now for the seat back, remove the headrest and back kick panel from the seat. then undo the leather to expose the seat foam.


you can now add the heating pad to the seat back foam. make sure you route the wire through the hole in the foam like this.


reach around the backside and fish the green connector from the heating pad to the green connector of the seat harness. plug them together.


reinstall the leather or clothe. reinstall the lower cushion to the seat frame too. then connect the green connector from the cushion to the lower seat wire harness.


that is it for this seat. do the other seat the same way. now you can reinstall the seats.

i used a steamer to smooth and tighten the leather. the hot steam also cleans the leather to like new. 33,000 miles of dirt is washed away. here is the finished seat after the steam job. once it cools and dries, the leather is very taut.




PROGRAM THE HEATED SEAT MODULE:

this is the final step. hopefully the dealer can add the sales code JPM to your car. they do this under dealer installed options on dealerconnect web site. if they can't add this, you will need to see me or a few others i know that can rewrite the config files for you.
once the programming is done, the heated seats will operate like factory installed heated seats.

now that programming is done, the heated seat switches will work and operate the heated seats. push the switch and both lights will light up. this is the high setting for the heating pads.



press the switch again and it will be the low heat setting for the heating pads.


in about 45 seconds, the seats will start to feel warm. just press the switch a third time to turn the seats off........

okay, here is the info on how to add the wiring for the heated seat switches if your car isn't prewired like my challenger. I added this part so the guys with older chargers, magnums, and 300 could use this information.

here are the needed pigtails cut from a donor car. you need a length from the clusters C3 white 26-way connector, a length from the left heated seat switch, and a length from the right heated seat switch.

now, you need to connect the switch pigtails to the clusters C3 connector. make this custom harness 36" long connector to connector. splice these wires together:

C3 pin #7 --> left switch pin #4 (tan w/white stripe wire)
C3 pin #9 --> left switch pin #6 (tan w/light blue stripe wire)
C3 pin #10 -> right switch pin #4 (tan w/violet stripe wire)
C3 pin #18 -> left switch pin #3 (light green w/grey stripe wire)
C3 pin #19 -> right switch pin #3 (light green w/light blue stripe wire)
C3 pin #22 -> right switch pin #6 (tan w/dark green stripe wire)

start with splicing these 6 wires from the cluster connector to the left and right switch connectors.





here is another view of the new harness for the heated seat dash switches.


next, join the black w/green stripe ground wires (pins #2) of each switch connector together, lengthen and put an eyelet connector on it.
then, join the red w/orange stripe fused B(+) wires (pins #1) of each switch connector together, lengthen....
finally, join the orange w/grey stripe wires (pins #7) of each switch connector together, lengthen....



here is a close-up of the white 26-way connector from the cluster. pin #1 is labeled for you in this pic.



here is the harness all taped up. it is still connected to the donor 26-way connector.


next, remove the pins from the 26-way connector. we only need the metal tabs from those 6 wires.


these are the cavities we will be adding wires to on your existing 26-way connector. the wire in pin #11 will need to be spliced onto.


here is the completed wire harness for the switches. it is ready to install in your car now.


to install this harness, just plug in those 6 wires into your existing 26-way cluster connector
then splice the orange w/grey stripe wire onto the orange w/grey stripe wire in pin #11
then ground the eyelet to the dashes metal framework
finally tap the red w/orange wire to an existing red w/orange stripe wire under then dash.

Your only hope is to find thumbnails on Google Image Search. It will be a laborious process, and only net you small thumbs if it did work. For instance the 1st pic in this thread, right click on it and Copy Image Address


take the end part q223/65standard/parts1.jpg and drop that in Google Image Search


If you are lucky, you'll find it in the results



If you click on it, it will be blurry again. Repeat for every picture. The only hope is if S/S Dodge is still around, and gave you access to his actual album

Photobucket screwed the entire internet, millions of pictures

A Guy