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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello CT!!

I'm hoping to fully be a part of this community once I purchase an SRT Challenger, and wanted some advice. Here's the deal as of now, pending any feedback...

The 16' Challenger is new - it's their last 16, 6spd manual; every option except Laguna leather.

My trade is a 16' CX-5 AWD GT w/40k miles and fully loaded (owe 16.8k on it). Here's the offer currently that includes the trade;

42k OTD w/TT&L included
1k cash back
1.9% financing for any term I choose...

Thoughts? I'm thinking maybe another grand down and or add a 100k mile warranty to it^.
 

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Separate the two vehicles, what is the cars sale price and your trade in? They purposely blur them in their favor but as long as you’re comfortable with the end amount that all that matters. Remember, the dealer NEVER loses as they are always in control of the deal. It’s a car, nothing more and never bury yourself in debt over a car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks brother! You are absolutely right and that is what I typically do.

I just posted what the numbers were, in hopes of getting some advice based on those numbers and where the market is at currently with Challenger SRTs - especially new left over 16s. ?

MSRP is 53k on the car, as a reference.
 

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We have a 16 CX5 Sport with only 8,000 miles on it and 2 different dealers including CARMAX would only give us about $13,000 for it so we kept it.
I'm guessing you're upside down and have negative equity in the CX5.
Mazda's apparently while being good vehicles, tank in price.

MAKE SURE the dealer is actually paying OFF your vehicle with their offer and not rolling some negative from your CX5 into the new deal, some dealers will try to do that without telling you.

Always put the LEAST amount down to get your payment where you want it to be.
Every $1,000 you put down only lowers the monthly payment about $18.00 so only put down what you have to.
 

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Separate the two vehicles, what is the cars sale price and your trade in? They purposely blur them in their favor but as long as you’re comfortable with the end amount that all that matters. Remember, the dealer NEVER loses as they are always in control of the deal. It’s a car, nothing more and never bury yourself in debt over a car.
Not to ever defend the dealer, but they lose quite often. They are able to borrow from one deal, to make another deal work. But some are losers. Especially on trades. They might hit your car with a decent number, then sit on it for months before blowing it out to make room for fresh inventory. They are not immune to making bad deals.

Remember if they let you walk out the door, then you most likely have their best deal. When I was looking for my challenger, I had a dealer actually ask me to leave at one point. I had beaten them into a deal I think the manager didnt even want to honor, but it was past 9pm and they were trying to close and wanted me to either sign or get out...lol. I left and got an even better number on my trade from a different dealer. But that first place armed me with written numbers I could take elsewhere and use against them/in my favor. It worked.
 

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Can't comment on the deal as I'm not current on the prices of the cars you are talking about.

Just wanted to bring up some things. Ask when the warranty clock started running. In some cases to help keep its standing with the factory the dealer can report the car as sold -- even if it only changed hands from the dealer's banker to the dealer -- which starts the factory warranty clock running. In this case while the warranty still has whatever remaining miles there are on the warranty left some time may be lost. In the case of a 2016 maybe a year, maybe 2 years... Check on this.

Dodge calls for the engine oil to be changed every 6K miles or 6 months. Odds are high the dealer has not changed the oil. Ever. Insist as part of the purchase the car gets at least one oil change ASAP. Then my advice is 500 miles later you get the oil changed again. Then I like to change the oil at the end of "break in", or 2K miles.

The battery is probably less than new. Driving past dealers near me I often see new cars getting a battery topped up as the cars sit so long before being sold and of course not driven long enough to recharge the battery. You might want to try to negotiate for a new battery.

Tires have a life of 6 years. Check the date the tires were made -- should be on the sidewall -- you can probably visit the web site of the tire maker to learn where on the side wall the month/year of manufacture is.

You probably want to negotiate some adjustment to the price to account for the fact the tires will need to be replaced due to age.
 

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Can't comment on the deal as I'm not current on the prices of the cars you are talking about.

Just wanted to bring up some things. Ask when the warranty clock started running. In some cases to help keep its standing with the factory the dealer can report the car as sold -- even if it only changed hands from the dealer's banker to the dealer -- which starts the factory warranty clock running. In this case while the warranty still has whatever remaining miles there are on the warranty left some time may be lost. In the case of a 2016 maybe a year, maybe 2 years... Check on this.

Dodge calls for the engine oil to be changed every 6K miles or 6 months. Odds are high the dealer has not changed the oil. Ever. Insist as part of the purchase the car gets at least one oil change ASAP. Then my advice is 500 miles later you get the oil changed again. Then I like to change the oil at the end of "break in", or 2K miles.

The battery is probably less than new. Driving past dealers near me I often see new cars getting a battery topped up as the cars sit so long before being sold and of course not driven long enough to recharge the battery. You might want to try to negotiate for a new battery.

Tires have a life of 6 years. Check the date the tires were made -- should be on the sidewall -- you can probably visit the web site of the tire maker to learn where on the side wall the month/year of manufacture is.

You probably want to negotiate some adjustment to the price to account for the fact the tires will need to be replaced due to age.

IM on year three of my tires and they are fine. But good points on the warranty start date. If you are getting a full three year 36 warranty I wouldn't even worry about it, and if I was the dealer I wouldn't entertain any talks of new tires or batteries.
 

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We have a 16 CX5 Sport with only 8,000 miles on it and 2 different dealers including CARMAX would only give us about $13,000 for it so we kept it.
I'm guessing you're upside down and have negative equity in the CX5.
Mazda's apparently while being good vehicles, tank in price.

MAKE SURE the dealer is actually paying OFF your vehicle with their offer and not rolling some negative from your CX5 into the new deal, some dealers will try to do that without telling you.

Always put the LEAST amount down to get your payment where you want it to be.
Every $1,000 you put down only lowers the monthly payment about $18.00 so only put down what you have to.
While I get what you are saying, to give out advice to pay the least amount down is typically really bad advice. Of course you need to be able afford it, and yes car loans can be cheap, but still. Not putting money down on a lease makes sense, but if you buy it you want to put as much down as possible, as it ends of costing you more for the money you already have.


The dealer will have an interest in paying off your old note, otherwise they will be trying to sell a car with a lien on it, so that doesn't make sense. In the art of the deal if they roll negative equity or not, doesn't really matter, as long as you get what your trade is worth and you pay the best possible deal on the new car. End of the day the negative equity while not a great idea will happen unless you bring cash to the table to make up for the delta. Actually pretty sure there are some laws with this, so not sure what you are talking about, in them sometimes not paying it off.
 

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Hello CT!!

I'm hoping to fully be a part of this community once I purchase an SRT Challenger, and wanted some advice. Here's the deal as of now, pending any feedback...

The 16' Challenger is new - it's their last 16, 6spd manual; every option except Laguna leather.

My trade is a 16' CX-5 AWD GT w/40k miles and fully loaded (owe 16.8k on it). Here's the offer currently that includes the trade;

42k OTD w/TT&L included
1k cash back
1.9% financing for any term I choose...

Thoughts? I'm thinking maybe another grand down and or add a 100k mile warranty to it^.

really need to know what they were going to give you for your trade, price on new car before taxes and title. That would be a fair way to evaluate this. With that said based off of those numbers you are getting 20% off that's pretty good. Figure 6% for tax and tag, your at 40 for just the car, which means your getting 25% off. Again don't know how your trade is factored in. Just the car to get 25% off will be pretty hard to beat. Cant really negotiate tax and tag, nor can you negotiate negative equity, well you can and that's by finding a dealer to give you more.
 
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