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the clutch gave out on my 15’ RT Scatpack a few days after I got it. Warranty didn’t cover wear n tear even though I drove it for 4 days and no way could’ve done that much damage in that short of a time. But anyways I took it back to the dealership three weeks ago and the flywheel was shot along with the clutch. Went with a aftermarket clutch because the Dodge ones are on backorder. Was going to be about 2200 for clutch n install but after three weeks they find out the aftermarket clutch won’t work because I have a hemi?? So now I have to wait for the dodge clutch to come in. And I’m stuck without a car so rippp. Does anybody know if that’s true?

They already ordered and put on the aftermarket clutch too. Then ran a diagnostic and said that it couldn’t work.
 

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That is a complete BS job. The best clutch that I’ve used thus far has been factory replacement units. But clutches such as Hayes dragon claw, Mantic, MCLeod, Spec, and Monster all work quite well in varying capacities. You are being taken to the cleaners right now sir.


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McLeod is a popular aftermarket clutch and many have used the RXT is their Scat Pack.

With that said, I'd still stay with the dealer OEM clutch or if you want a little more holding power, go with the dealer OEM Hellcat clutch.


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Discussion Starter #4
That is a complete BS job. The best clutch that I’ve used thus far has been factory replacement units. But clutches such as Hayes dragon claw, Mantic, MCLeod, Spec, and Monster all work quite well in varying capacities. You are being taken to the cleaners right now sir.


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Exactly what I’ve been thinking. The BMW dealership (where I got the car) were the ones to install the aftermarket and once they took it to dodge, dodge said that aftermarket won’t work. But I agree complete bs!
 

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McLeod is a popular aftermarket clutch and many have used the RXT is their Scat Pack.

With that said, I'd still stay with the dealer OEM clutch or if you want a little more holding power, go with the dealer OEM Hellcat clutch.


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I’m staying with the dealer OEM, just sucks there on backorder as of right now
 

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Parts are even more scarce than normal given COVID shutdown at the PDCs & suppliers but things have started back up so hopefully it won't be too much longer.

If the dealer said the aftermarket clutch wouldn't 'work' I'm sure they had a reason - incorrect kit/parts supplied(?) etc. Regardless, sounds like you bought a used car with a toasted clutch. Could be at least part of the reason the seller traded it in/dumped the car. Hopefully there won't be any other surprises.
 

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Could be at least part of the reason the seller traded it in/dumped the car. Hopefully there won't be any other surprises.
fully agree with this statement. I feel like that had to of been the reason because the person who owned it before refurbished the flywheel Already once before.
 

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If you don’t go with a Hellcat Clutch. I used MCLeod, but it didn’t last very long they way I drive. That’s said I’m getting a Monster Triple disk for my current build. If that doesn’t work out. I’ll go with a Hellcat unit.


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How many miles does this car have on it ? If I am under standing you right its was redone once before and now you are redoing it again. I have a 2012 R/T M6 that my son at 16 learned how to drive a standard on and also how to drag race a standard trans car on, raced it for 5 years. Then graduated up to my 10 second 4 speed Dart for the last 2 years. I started having shifting problems with the Challenger( who doesn't with these junk tr6060 trans.) and then the sticking clutch thing. Yesterday my son and I replaced the clutch with a new take out stock clutch and I was shocked to find that the original clutch and flywheel we took out ( other than being few thousands thinner) looked almost as good as the new clutch we put in, despite having 49,000 miles an around a 100 drag race passes and countless street beatings. The problem with the clutch was the splines on the clutch discs and trans input splines were rusty and the captured disc between pressure plate and friction plate wasn't sliding on the input shaft at all. I refilled the trans with Tremecs new fluid and the trans shifts smoother when driven normally, but still crunches and grinds when driven aggressively. Would love to put a single disc 10 1/2" clutch and 833 4 spd with a GearVenders under/over drive with a solid axle Dana 60 in this car and solve all of it's problems, with a bullet proof combination. Also an overly aggressive clutch is good for breaking the driveline parts and slowing your car down, a clutch that is made to handle the power your engine has with a little built in slip will save your driveline and make your car quicker beleave it or not. You don't need a clutch that will handle 800 to a 1000 HP with a 400 HP engine, you need a 400 HP clutch. The Hayes Dragon Claw( even though it's made for higher HP cars) sounds like it's set up to hit soft and lock up as the RPM get higher, which is what you are looking for, for drag racing. For a street car that gets driven normally most of the time and aggressively once in a while a comfortable easy clutch made to handle the power the car has is all you need.
 

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How many miles does this car have on it ? If I am under standing you right its was redone once before and now you are redoing it again. I have a 2012 R/T M6 that my son at 16 learned how to drive a standard on and also how to drag race a standard trans car on, raced it for 5 years. Then graduated up to my 10 second 4 speed Dart for the last 2 years. I started having shifting problems with the Challenger( who doesn't with these junk tr6060 trans.) and then the sticking clutch thing. Yesterday my son and I replaced the clutch with a new take out stock clutch and I was shocked to find that the original clutch and flywheel we took out ( other than being few thousands thinner) looked almost as good as the new clutch we put in, despite having 49,000 miles an around a 100 drag race passes and countless street beatings. The problem with the clutch was the splines on the clutch discs and trans input splines were rusty and the captured disc between pressure plate and friction plate wasn't sliding on the input shaft at all. I refilled the trans with Tremecs new fluid and the trans shifts smoother when driven normally, but still crunches and grinds when driven aggressively. Would love to put a single disc 10 1/2" clutch and 833 4 spd with a GearVenders under/over drive with a solid axle Dana 60 in this car and solve all of it's problems, with a bullet proof combination. Also an overly aggressive clutch is good for breaking the driveline parts and slowing your car down, a clutch that is made to handle the power your engine has with a little built in slip will save your driveline and make your car quicker beleave it or not. You don't need a clutch that will handle 800 to a 1000 HP with a 400 HP engine, you need a 400 HP clutch. The Hayes Dragon Claw( even though it's made for higher HP cars) sounds like it's set up to hit soft and lock up as the RPM get higher, which is what you are looking for, for drag racing. For a street car that gets driven normally most of the time and aggressively once in a while a comfortable easy clutch made to handle the power the car has is all you need.
Car has 54,000 miles on it. And thanks for the great information!
 
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