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Again last night my car won't start, I changed the battery, filled the tank, added heet, faced it away from the wind. So far every time the temp gets below 0 it will only crank but not start. Once it warms up to 20 degrees it starts right up like it never had trouble. As much as I love my car I'm considering trading it in.

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Again last night my car won't start, I changed the battery, filled the tank, added heet, faced it away from the wind. So far every time the temp gets below 0 it will only crank but not start. Once it warms up to 20 degrees it starts right up like it never had trouble. As much as I love my car I'm considering trading it in.

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Sounds like you may have parked it next to a Ford and some of the "suck" rubbed off.

You seem to have addressed the likely issues (water in fuel or fuel lines). If you had water in the lines, it should be equally frozen at 0 degrees as well as 20 degrees, unless the fuel system additive you use isn't effective at 0 degrees.

Before you get too frustrated, I'd recommend running the car (when it will start) and burn up all of the suspected "bad gas", and then get your gasoline from a different place than normal (you failed to mention if this was a sudden onset event that might have been caused by a dose of bag gasoline). Ask around if know other people who may have gotten gasoline at the same place to see if other people are having the same problem.

Back in the day, paper fuel-filters would gunk up when there was water in the fuel, and replacing a fuel filter was a routine action when there was suspected fuel in the gasoline. I don't think this is an option on Challengers. I don't even know where my fuel filter is, if there is one. Maybe inside the tank?
 

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Again last night my car won't start, I changed the battery, filled the tank, added heet, faced it away from the wind. So far every time the temp gets below 0 it will only crank but not start. Once it warms up to 20 degrees it starts right up like it never had trouble. As much as I love my car I'm considering trading it in.

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I'd hunt around on the technical sites to see what a low temperature no-start would be. Any modern car should be able to start and run from -20 to 120*F.

The manufacturers do extreme winter and summer testing (and let them sit overnight) to find any faults.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It happened once last winter, so far it's happened twice this winter. I also have a Chrysler 200 and I buy gas from the same place. It has never faulted, I've asked others when gassing and noone has had issues.
I was wondering if there was some kind of relay switch or something. I haven't tried to start it today yet.

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Again last night my car won't start, I changed the battery, filled the tank, added heet, faced it away from the wind. So far every time the temp gets below 0 it will only crank but not start. Once it warms up to 20 degrees it starts right up like it never had trouble. As much as I love my car I'm considering trading it in.

Mopar or No Car, Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
Have you checked for the basics (i.e. getting spark and fuel). Do you hear the fuel pump kick on just before you start it? If not, could be a bad relay. You could try swapping the relays around to see if it improves. Oh and check your intake manifold bolts are properly torqued.
 

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Again last night my car won't start, I changed the battery, filled the tank, added heet, faced it away from the wind. So far every time the temp gets below 0 it will only crank but not start. Once it warms up to 20 degrees it starts right up like it never had trouble. As much as I love my car I'm considering trading it in.

Mopar or No Car, Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
Probably fuel pump related. Either the pump is (intermittently) bad (in real cold weather, obviously) or the fuel pump relay.

Easy enough to eliminate the fuel pump: Do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? If not if you can hit -- not too hard -- the fuel pump or if it is located in the tank hit the tank near where the pump is located.

Or replace the fuel pump relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do hear the fuel pump kick on, last evening it got down to 1 below and it started right up. I just can't trust it, I love my car but I have to trust it's going to get me back home. I know any car can screw up at any time. I have a full tank of gas I'm going to run it down a ways and get all new gas. See if that helps and thinking of getting a can of seafoam and see if that helps.

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I do hear the fuel pump kick on, last evening it got down to 1 below and it started right up. I just can't trust it, I love my car but I have to trust it's going to get me back home. I know any car can screw up at any time. I have a full tank of gas I'm going to run it down a ways and get all new gas. See if that helps and thinking of getting a can of seafoam and see if that helps.

Mopar or No Car, Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
Try swapping the relays around. I recently had a bad fuel pump relay on my GC. There was a recall in which the dealership installed a standalone relay to bypass the TIPM relay (not serviceable as it is solder to the circuit board). Well after 1 year the GC started developing an intermittent no start condition (usually when it sat for a while..not issues starting it when warm) and it turns out the relay the dealership installed to avoid this failed. Swapped out the relay and problem went away.
 

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Keep in mind that the battery is in the trunk which means there is a long run of cable to the starter. Does it crank at normal speed in the cold initially before the battery wears down or is it slow? Could be the starter or an iffy connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought of the long cords running from the back. So I invested in a brand new battery and it cranks at full speed. When it does start now, it pops off better than it ever has. I did buy the car with 27000 miles on it.

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I do hear the fuel pump kick on, last evening it got down to 1 below and it started right up. I just can't trust it, I love my car but I have to trust it's going to get me back home. I know any car can screw up at any time. I have a full tank of gas I'm going to run it down a ways and get all new gas. See if that helps and thinking of getting a can of seafoam and see if that helps.

Mopar or No Car, Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
I doubt it is gasoline related. If it was water in the gas then it would take some time above freezing for the car to warm up enough to thaw any ice that had formed in the fuel lines, or filter.

The fact the symptom occurs like it does, almost as if a switch were being flipped one way then another at cold temperature, suggests a problem electrical in nature.

If you hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key and the engine cranks but doesn't fire then one possible explanation is the crankshaft position sensor is acting up. If this generates no signal the engine controller can't know where pistons are and as a result will not trigger fuel injector pulses or spark.

Sometimes, that is in some cars, a flat tach during cranking can be a sign of a bad crankshaft position sensor.

Another possible explanation is low battery voltage. What can happen is while there is sufficient power to crank the engine for the coils to work the power has to be enough that when the coil is supplied electricity and this flows through the coil windings it creates a large enough magnetic field that then when the power to the coil is cut and the field collapses it can then by self-induction create a higher voltage (maybe 200 volts) in the primary windings and this then generates a much larger voltage (in some cases 100,000 volts) in the secondary windings to the point a spark is generated at the plug.

If this doesn't happen the engine can crank all day long -- well, as long as the battery holds up -- but the engine will not start because no spark is generated.

With older cars the battery voltage -- this during cranking -- had to be 9V or higher. Modern cars with "smart" coils may require more voltage.
 

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A flaky cam position sensor can also cause sparatic no start. Again you need to check for the basics. Next time it fails to start after several attempts, pull a plug and check if it wet (most likely spark related) or dry (most likely fuel related). From their you can diagnose further if you have the tools. For fuel, a fuel pressure gauge and injector pulse test can weed out which component is failing. For spark, it gets more complicated.
 
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