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I'm hoping someone has a quick fix or easy answer. Today, out of the blue, my Air conditioner started blowing much less cooler air and the flow went down. Its usually so cold it "burns", and comes out like a leaf blower. While going through the car wash, I noticed I could smell the soap even though I was on re circulate, and the air was barely cool, and not coming out as fast. I popped by the dealer, and they "ran the codes" and he said its having issues with the "door that determines fresh outside air as opposed to re circulate". I'm covered under warranty, however, the backup for AC work is 5- 7 days. I'd have to leave my car there, for a week, "in line" before they could even look at it.

So, my question is...does anyone know of a fix/tip/trick/fuse pull/battery disconnect, anything that may help on this?
 

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My wife had a problem like that on a Dodge Stratus RT. I was able to pull on the cable under the dash to get full AC!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My wife had a problem like that on a Dodge Stratus RT. I was able to pull on the cable under the dash to get full AC!


They did mention, this "door" is up under the dash. I may not have a "cable" though. They said its a servo controlled item. But, it won't hurt to look.
Any suggestions on where and what to look for? I assume its on my passengers side, since what I believe to be the incoming air filter for this is under the hood, back against the firewall...passengers side.


Tell me more please, any info will help
Thanks!
 

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I had my '10 R/TC act up like that once on a road trip. Played around with it while driving for about an hour, and it was in the 90's and getting HOT. I thought well crap, when we get back home, head to the dealer.


Stopped for about a 1/2 break, started the car up, and the air worked fine. Never did it again??


I honestly think that sometimes all these pcm's controlling things sometimes have their "magic moments" like our home pc's.


Over the years though, there have been some issues with that door under the dash acting like yours. They were replaced, but I would still do a few cycles on yours and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My wife had a problem like that on a Dodge Stratus RT. I was able to pull on the cable under the dash to get full AC!
I had my '10 R/TC act up like that once on a road trip. Played around with it while driving for about an hour, and it was in the 90's and getting HOT. I thought well crap, when we get back home, head to the dealer.


Stopped for about a 1/2 break, started the car up, and the air worked fine. Never did it again??


I honestly think that sometimes all these pcm's controlling things sometimes have their "magic moments" like our home pc's.


Over the years though, there have been some issues with that door under the dash acting like yours. They were replaced, but I would still do a few cycles on yours and see what happens.

90's ha! try low to mid 100's here! and Dallas ain't Arizona...Humidity present too!


If I could find it under the dash, maybe some lite banging on it my help. I've stopped and restarted several times from 1 min, to over two hours...it's still doing it. It has only been bout 16 hours since it began. I have no choice but to wait a few cycles...I'm not dropping off my car for a week, just to have it "get in line" to be looked at. Specially with holidays and days off coming. I'm like a 16 year old in this thing, I love just driving it aimlessly.
 

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On my '09 to get to the blower motor, you remove the insulation panel ahead of the glove box door. The motor should be quite visible then. The actuator is a little motor with a linkage that moves a clamshell shaped door in the housing. This actuator may be visible at this point, but unfortunately I just don't remember.
 

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On my '09 to get to the blower motor, you remove the insulation panel ahead of the glove box door. The motor should be quite visible then. The actuator is a little motor with a linkage that moves a clamshell shaped door in the housing. This actuator may be visible at this point, but unfortunately I just don't remember.

What is "insulation panel ahead of the glove box door" ? I'm not sure what you mean by that?
 

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I recall the actuators being on the driver's side.

Remove the panel below the dash - there's one for temperature and the other is for the damper doors. They're electric, not cable or vacuum operated.
 

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What is "insulation panel ahead of the glove box door" ? I'm not sure what you mean by that?
What I meant was that if you imagine your head on the floorboard and look up at the headliner, the insulation panel spans from the edge of the glovebox door to the firewall.
 

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I recall the actuators being on the driver's side.

Remove the panel below the dash - there's one for temperature and the other is for the damper doors. They're electric, not cable or vacuum operated.
I absolutely agree with what you say here Hal. The actuator I was referring to was the recirculation door actuator, the door being directly above the blower motor. Maybe if high pressure water was forced into the outside air duct, some might have messed something up with the door, the motor or the actuator. Just my theory on the situation. Some years ago I had to dig into my HVAC to get rid of a serious swampy smell and had as many panels and parts removed as possible!!
 

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Not sure if this applies to your case but the same thing happened to me recently; warmish air and not recirculating on manual settings.

I took the car to the dealer to have it fixed and they could not reproduce the problem. The service manager went through the whole procedure and demonstrated that it was working properly.

Sure enough it started doing the same thing a few days later so just for the hell of it I switched the two controls to AUTO and it's functioned perfectly ever since.
 

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Have them check for a refrigerant leak. Low level and certain climatic conditions can cause the system to freeze up and quit blowing occasionally, but not predictably. Shut the system down for 10 minutes and it thaws out and works just fine. Dealer may or may not replicate the problem since it's intermittent. And if they can't see the problem, they're probably not going to work on it.
 

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Any followup on this?
 

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Looking for followups on this as well, when the temp outside is above 90+ it doesn't want to blow cold air, but once it drops around 85 or below it works perfectly fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looking for followups on this as well, when the temp outside is above 90+ it doesn't want to blow cold air, but once it drops around 85 or below it works perfectly fine?


My issue "was" undoubtedly the Fresh/recirculate door (not Freon)....oddly, I noticed yesterday,,,,it started working correctly again. ...our temps have lowered from 100's to 90's, I'm not sure if that did it?.....
 

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My issue "was" undoubtedly the Fresh/recirculate door (not Freon)....oddly, I noticed yesterday,,,,it started working correctly again. ...our temps have lowered from 100's to 90's, I'm not sure if that did it?.....
Like I mentioned earlier mine was doing the same thing when I was using the manual controls. When I switched back to the automatic setting on both controls it started working right again.

Have you tried that?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Like I mentioned earlier mine was doing the same thing when I was using the manual controls. When I switched back to the automatic setting on both controls it started working right again.

Have you tried that?
I had already done all that........nothing., I even got under there and banged on things...nothing. I'm not sure "when" it begin working?...when the temps lowered?
however, when I noticed it working, is when I was updating the software to my Uconnect....(that USB they send you for the recall...you can do it yourself)...maybe that unstuck it ?
 

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Have them check for a refrigerant leak. Low level and certain climatic conditions can cause the system to freeze up and quit blowing occasionally, but not predictably. Shut the system down for 10 minutes and it thaws out and works just fine. Dealer may or may not replicate the problem since it's intermittent. And if they can't see the problem, they're probably not going to work on it.

Nissan had our Rogue for NINE business days trying to duplicate the problem by starting the car and letting it run for hours at a time. No joy. I told them it was intermittent and unpredictable, but because it wouldn't present the issue, they didn't even do the most basic diagnostics until HQ told them to. Pressure test... pinhole leak. With low/leaking refrigerant it'll blow until something causes it to freeze up... and then it'll blow again after it thaws. I had a big window unit that used to do the same thing in stormy weather.
 

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The HVAC systems on today's car throw codes that are stored in the ecm but do not turn on a warning light. Last summer the a/c in my truck would blow ice cold while riding around town but go from ice cold to slightly warm and then back again when cruising down the highway. Mine turned out to be the fresh air door actuator. A good shop can read the code and explain the repair procedure.
 
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