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Hey all! Question...I lowered my 16 r/t plus this week however the dealer couldn’t align. Gave me a story about an old alignment machine and the likely possibility of damaging the wheel. Anyway, they suggested that I bring it to a shop with a newer machine. I took it to a regional tire shop today that I have had good experiences with. They couldn’t get it within spec. Wondering if someone with more experience than me can tell me if this is close enough, or do I need to have more work done to make it right? Thanks in advance.






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Seem recall caster differences need to be pretty small or the car will tend to pull. (I know that in some cases caster (and/or other settings) is (are) purposely different to compensate for road camber or crown. This might have been ok back in the day when roads were heavily cambered/crowned but nowadays in most areas they are not and in some cases can be cambered/crowned the other direction. Thus whenever I have one of my cars aligned I always specify no misalignment to compensate for road camber or crown.)

I would think unless you have some specific usage in mind for which those numbers are deemed appropriate you'd want to get the alignment dialed in to what the factory calls for.
 

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No adjustment when our cars get lowered. There are bushing kits available if you want to get it back into spec. I lowered mine a fuzz over an inch and the shop said it was off a little but shouldn't be a problem. I've since put on over 12K mi. and haven't seen any adverse tire wear and I run on 285's.
 

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When I lowered my 2011 Challenger R/T Classic with Mopar Stage 1 springs I also had alignment issues.

After eating up a set of Generals (my least favorite tires of all time) I changed to Eibach control arms for the front and Eibach adjustable bushings for the rear to get the alignment in spec.
 

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When I lowered my 2011 Challenger R/T Classic with Mopar Stage 1 springs I also had alignment issues.

After eating up a set of Generals (my least favorite tires of all time) I changed to Eibach control arms for the front and Eibach adjustable bushings for the rear to get the alignment in spec.

That's good to know. I would have thought those springs would have been so simple as swap out and go as they are provided by MOPAR for this platform.
 

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What springs did you go with? Did you drive around for a little bit after install so things could settle? Don't really know if that's required, but I have heard it suggested.

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That's good to know. I would have thought those springs would have been so simple as swap out and go as they are provided by MOPAR for this platform.


So did I. And was told that it was “close” when the initial alignment was done. I have read many others say that they did not require arms and bushings.

I guess the expression, “your results may vary” is true.

Rode around long enough to ruin a set of tires. Then I did the arms and bushings and never had another problem.


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What springs did you go with? Did you drive around for a little bit after install so things could settle? Don't really know if that's required, but I have heard it suggested.

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Mopar Stage 1’s and drove it for 3 days before the alignment.


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When I lowered my 2011 Challenger R/T Classic with Mopar Stage 1 springs I also had alignment issues.

After eating up a set of Generals (my least favorite tires of all time) I changed to Eibach control arms for the front and Eibach adjustable bushings for the rear to get the alignment in spec.


I guess control arms and bushings are in my future. Looks like I can get them both for roughly $450, any idea what I should expect in labor? Thanks


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I guess control arms and bushings are in my future. Looks like I can get them both for roughly $450, any idea what I should expect in labor? Thanks


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Can’t remember if I paid the guy $250 or $400 to do front and rear. Sorry.


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My 2013 R/T is also lowered on Stage 1 springs. I had camber bolts installed on the front end to get the front wheels within spec. But on my rear I still have some camber. I know you can get those adjustable control arms which cost a pretty good penny. What is this bushing kit you guys are talking about? Could I just get that for the rear of my car? One side is barely in spec and the other side is a little out on my rear. So if this rear bushing kit would work without having to spring for the control arms someone please advise. Thanks! I also keep my tires rotated regularly and have yet to see any adverse tire wear.
 

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Thanks Guy! I will definitely order this kit! Sorry for the stupid question lol but to be sure, do I need to buy 2 of these kits for a total of 4 bushings right, 2 for each side? Or do I only need one kit with the 2 bushings?
 

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Thanks Guy! I will definitely order this kit! Sorry for the stupid question lol but to be sure, do I need to buy 2 of these kits for a total of 4 bushings right, 2 for each side? Or do I only need one kit with the 2 bushings?


The kit I am buying comes with 4 which is both sides. The screen grab is from Summit but I am buying from Speedlogix. Hope this helps.





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Ok thanks bud, I'll order that kit as well then from Speedlogix. It will be a week and a half though for me till I get paid again before I order it. Please post here when you get yours installed! Thanks.
 

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Mine is on coilovers and dropped approximately 3". I went with SPC front upper control arms and rear bushings. Got everything back within spec. If your mechanically inclined in the least bit you can swap the control arms out yourself. SPC has a video on their site how to do it no matter the brand you get. Very easy to do and save the money. Bushings need to be done at a shop.
 

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The camber was basically maxed out. Attached some pics to show how low it is.
 

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Lowered mine on h&r, eat the inside of the tire up and was in spec because my bro aligned it and i watched. Got me a set of adjustable control arms now to put on.
 
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