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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am at the alignment shop and they said asked if I wanted to adjust the frame because it was off from factory. Should I do that or is it bad? I don’t know if it was off from factory, he said a lot of Chrysler cars have some off alignments.

I don’t want to void warranty or anything

And he also suggested aftermarket front upper control arms to get it even more aligned

If we shift the frame it won’t bring it to spec but maybe just closer

Please let me know what you suggest thanks!

The writing on the right is the factory numbers that the car is suppose to be at.

Are the after numbers okay?

The alignment guy says in the long run it probably will wear from on the inside, but that's also sporty

From the factory for some reason the left and right aren't the same numbers and that's just a Dodge/Chrysler thing. No one else seems to have different left and right numbers.

He suggested if I want things perfectly straight I would need to get and install this


SPC 66047 cam/caster arm

Is it a good idea to get it straight? Straighter than factory? Does adding that void warranty?

I never was in an accident, are my before and after numbers okay?

I hope there was no frame damage from the nightmare bodyshop/Dodge dealership experience I had

982504





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Are you just being a conscientious owner or what problem are you trying to resolve? Do you have a handling or tire wear problem?

Most Challenger that I have seen are slightly out of spec from the factory but still provide decent handling and tire wear. As your alignment shop noted, adjustable control arms would need to be installed to adjust camber. Unless there is a specific problem I would get the toe as good as possible and rotate tires frequently ( I rotate every 3K back to front and front cross to back. While most folks think that is excessive I've experienced excellent tire mileage) With the changes the shop made to the front toe of your vehicle I would expect a noticeable improvement in steering and handling.>
 

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I am at the alignment shop and they said asked if I wanted to adjust the frame because it was off from factory. Should I do that or is it bad? I don’t know if it was off from factory, he said a lot of Chrysler cars have some off alignments.

I don’t want to void warranty or anything

And he also suggested aftermarket front upper control arms to get it even more aligned

If we shift the frame it won’t bring it to spec but maybe just closer

Please let me know what you suggest thanks!

The writing on the right is the factory numbers that the car is suppose to be at.

Are the after numbers okay?

The alignment guy says in the long run it probably will wear from on the inside, but that's also sporty

From the factory for some reason the left and right aren't the same numbers and that's just a Dodge/Chrysler thing. No one else seems to have different left and right numbers.

He suggested if I want things perfectly straight I would need to get and install this


SPC 66047 cam/caster arm

Is it a good idea to get it straight? Straighter than factory? Does adding that void warranty?

I never was in an accident, are my before and after numbers okay?

I hope there was no frame damage from the nightmare bodyshop/Dodge dealership experience I had

View attachment 982504




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They are talking about the rear sub frame. There are 4 bolts that hold that in. They will just loosen those bolts and adjust the sub frame. It's really no big deal, most guys that have replaced there rear sub frame bushings have to have that adjusted after. IT's actually part of the alignment process/procedure. No worries about warranty, it will actually be better to have that set correctly. As it is now the car may want to lurch to one side under hard acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you just being a conscientious owner or what problem are you trying to resolve? Do you have a handling or tire wear problem?

Most Challenger that I have seen are slightly out of spec from the factory but still provide decent handling and tire wear. As your alignment shop noted, adjustable control arms would need to be installed to adjust camber. Unless there is a specific problem I would get the toe as good as possible and rotate tires frequently ( I rotate every 3K back to front and front cross to back. While most folks think that is excessive I've experienced excellent tire mileage) With the changes the shop made to the front toe of your vehicle I would expect a noticeable improvement in steering and handling.>
I'm trying to be conscientious, I was driving with one missing wheel weight before the new tires and alignment. It probably contributed to poorer handling and maybe uneven tire wear. I always felt it wasn't driving as straight as I'd like when I back out of the tight drive way at my mom's place when I visit.

With the new tires and alignment shown above I feel much more confident in my handling and it's a lot better ride. Probably helps that the tires are new and not pretty much gone and it's correctly balanced.

I will rotate my tires as recommended by America's tire/Discount tire to keep my warranty and the certificate I paid for replacing tires if it fails before warranty and for like nails and stuff

I want to make sure I keep my warranty in tact with proper alignment. I'm not sure if it's fine the way it is or if I should go back and have him adjust the frame and buy the part he suggest and get it exactly like the specs from factory he wrote on the right.

They are talking about the rear sub frame. There are 4 bolts that hold that in. They will just loosen those bolts and adjust the sub frame. It's really no big deal, most guys that have replaced there rear sub frame bushings have to have that adjusted after. IT's actually part of the alignment process/procedure. No worries about warranty, it will actually be better to have that set correctly. As it is now the car may want to lurch to one side under hard acceleration.
He said adjusting the frame would be an extra $30 is that procedure probably what he is meaning adjusting the sub frame. I was worried it was some frame damage or something causing the unaligned numbers. He said something about adjusting the frame would just cause the car to compensate more on some side or something not sure what he meant and that the control arm is what I need to fully get it right or something. So getting the frame adjusted and getting the upper control arm will help it from going toward on side during hard acceleration and it won't be voiding the warranty?
 

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A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thank you, it seems very technical. I'm not too experienced with alignments. I may have to forward this to the alignment guy. Does the service adjustable bolt package include the caster arm part? So does it mean I should try to have him shift the engine cradle first (I wonder if it's the frame he's referring to) and then if it doesn't meet the specs install the caster arm? Or is that a no as the highlight says not to modify suspension components or body. It isn't exactly to spec, but based on the current numbers do you think it's fine or should I bring it back to do more to it? It seems to drive straight so far
 

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I believe that is what he said he needed to do. The idea is you shift the cradle 1st, then you align. If you can't get alignment then, you need bolts of adjustable arms. Frankly if it's very close to being aligned, you're usually good to go without getting it perfect

A Guy
 

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What Guy said. It’s ok to do as far as shifting the sub-frame to get close to the specs. Camber bolts can also be used BUT there’s a limit on adjustability with those. Same with upper control arms depending on the manufacturer.
And the reason for the difference in specs from driver to pass side is the manufacturer takes into consideration the weight of the driver.
 
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