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2015 Dodge Challenger RT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a 2015 Challenger RT with H and R lowering springs and stock shocks.
Spc adjustable control arms up front and Spc adjustable camber bushings out back.

I thought with the adjustable control arms and rear bushings I would be good to go.

Any suggestions will be appreciated..

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Your within specs. I run -1.75 on the front and -1.3 in the rear. You don’t want 0 camber all around. Rear could be a little lower in negative specs.

Did they install the springs, then checked alignment, then installed rear camber bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your within specs. I run -1.75 on the front and -1.3 in the rear. You don’t want 0 camber all around. Rear could be a little lower in negative specs.

Did they install the springs, then checked alignment, then installed rear camber bushings?
They installed springs and I installed the bushings and control arms.
 

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They installed springs and I installed the bushings and control arms.
The rear bushing needs to be pressed in depending how far your off after installing the springs. If you just pressed them in without checking the alignment before, it could be that they were installed at the incorrect mark. The rear bushings have marks on how much positive camber you want add back in to offset the increase in negative camber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Once the bushings are pressed in. Can it be pressed out and adjusted without getting destroyed? I tried for a +1.5 camber for the bushings according to the marks.
 

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I’m running -1.4/-1.7 front, -2.1 rear after installing my Bilstein HDs, Eibach Pro-kit and new Nitto NT555G2 255/45/20 tires. 3.5 years and 21k miles later the tires were down to 3/32” and had almost perfect tire wear. Could have gotten another 3K miles out of them if I didn’t have new Demon Replicas to install.
I have noticed a lot of people concerned about negative camber lately, hopefully my statement will help give them some peace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m running -1.4/-1.7 front, -2.1 rear after installing my Bilstein HDs, Eibach Pro-kit and new Nitto NT555G2 255/45/20 tires. 3.5 years and 21k miles later the tires were down to 3/32” and had almost perfect tire wear. Could have gotten another 3K miles out of them if I didn’t have new Demon Replicas to install.
I have noticed a lot of people concerned about negative camber lately, hopefully my statement will help give them some peace.
How was your toe readings ? I went back and got another alignment after adjusting my left rear camber down to -1.4. from -2.0 and my toe readings got worse. It was -0.24 and now is -0.46 🤨

I’m fine with my camber now, but seems I messed up my toe somewhere. Does anybody known if the stepped bushing affects the toe?
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Toe was set to 0.05” (my alignment shop reports as inches, not degrees)
Front Camber: -1.5/-1.7
Front Caster: 9.4/9.7
Front Toe: 0.05” (range 0.00 to 0.10)
Rear Camber: -2.2/-2.2
Rear Toe: 0.05” (range -0.3 to 0.13)

you definitely should have the toe adjusted

21k miles NT555G2
I think they wore better than the Michelin PSS tires I had before lowering.

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How was your toe readings ? I went back and got another alignment after adjusting my left rear camber down to -1.4. from -2.0 and my toe readings got worse. It was -0.24 and now is -0.46 🤨

I’m fine with my camber now, but seems I messed up my toe somewhere. Does anybody known if the stepped bushing affects the toe?
View attachment 1001137
Anytime you change one of the other angles, the toe will be affected. That's why you adjust the toe last after bringing caster & camber back into spec.
 

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Did you press in both bushings at +1.5 markings? I don’t recall having any toe issues.
 

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My guess is that both bushings were not installed exactly the same and it is throwing off the geometry.
The top bushing is probably correct since the camber is within spec but the lower/rear bushing is likely set to -1.5* which essentially shortens the bar and creates toe out.
I had excessive toe in after lowering which was corrected but you have excessive toe out which is why alignment shop is saying it is maxed out.
Post a pic when you get a chance.
 

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Well, my theory sounded nice but it appears they are installed correctly.
Can you tell by looking at it that the wheel has significant toe out? I have slight toe in and can tell by looking at the wheels. Just to rule out a screwed up alignment machine giving you bogus readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It looks very similar to the passenger rear. I’ve scheduled an appointment with another alignment shop.
 

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My initial toe-in was 0.20” and it looked way off, very noticeable. If you cannot see that much difference then I blame machine. Keep us updated.
 
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