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Bare with me fellas, I’m new to this.
2019 challengersxt.
i just bought 2 12 inch kickers and an amp by ds18, 1100 watt.
I have no clue what to do but everyone is telling me to do it myself and not pay for someone to hook it up.
i want to keep my stock screen working with it.
Do i need a line out converter also?
I know i need a wire kit.
pls Help
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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9,429 Posts
Bare with me fellas, I’m new to this.
2019 challengersxt.
i just bought 2 12 inch kickers and an amp by ds18, 1100 watt.
I have no clue what to do but everyone is telling me to do it myself and not pay for someone to hook it up.
i want to keep my stock screen working with it.
Do i need a line out converter also?
I know i need a wire kit.
pls Help
Easiest and cleanest way to interface the sub amp with the car’s stock system is to utilize one of the adapter harnesses made for such installs. Which one and how many you would need depends upon the audio package installed in the car from the factory and its amenities you want to keep, e.g. steering wheel volume controls, etc.

The cost of going that route is considerable to many folks, and that’s just for the hardware alone. If you do the install labor, that can offset the sticker shock of the whole upgrade’s price tag, but if you pay someone else to install it all, be prepared to go to sleep that night with much less money than you woke up with.

(Im making no statement as to whether the installation labor costs would be ‘worth it’, only you can decide that. I’m just saying they will be significant as well, assuming a competent shop does the work)

The alternate approach to getting the sub amp a signal to amplify for subs is to go old school and tap some existing speaker wires and convert the signal with a LOC or something similar to feed sub amp. Here again, which of the factory sound packages the car got at build time matters, as some speakers‘ wires will be more desirable than others‘ if an upgraded sound package and factory amp is in play. If base audio package in the car, any of the four channels in the car will be as good as the others, so just tap the closest.

Once the amp is getting a good signal and sending to the subs, you will still need to make sure they are properly enclosed and mounted somewhere in the trunk that will yield cabin gain for the bass notes rather than cancel them out. Ive witnessed a poorly performing setup suddenly start performing quite well from nothing more than a 180 degree spin to face the sub the opposite way. The bass notes will bounce around in the trunk, try to combine them to add extra dBs instead of colliding them and subtracting dBs.

That will be trial error for the most part. Start out with the most common setup configuration and keep trying different ones until you have one that helps the hrdware sound its best. That’s about all you can do...
 
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