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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,


Like the thread says this is my 4.29 thread build. I feel like I've whored up the 4.30 ? thread with a lot of personal questions. So with that in mind, I'm creating this thread to track my efforts pertaining to swapping my factory 3.90 equipped Getrag for a modified 4.29 version..... My car is a 2013 M6 R/T. It currently has the following mods; ported heads, Comp 270, Custom Jay Greene tune, 180 T-stat, K&N CAI, Corsa Xtreme exhaust, and a Zex Nitrous kit. All upgrades to my car have been done by me to this point. Anything that I wasn't able to handle, I've sent out to professionals (Like UNITRAX). I've managed to drop my car from a 14.1# @101 1/4 to a 12.3#@109. My best 60 ft time to date is a 1.7#. This 60 ft time is the main reason for me wanting to go with the 4.29 gears in my car. The A8 cars are consistently cutting 1.58-1.65 60ft times, which IMO largely contribute to the quicker ET's. It can be argued that no human can out shift a computer, which is true. That being said, I feel a level playing field with torque multipliers can/will yield better times for M6 cars than we are currently seeing. For whatever reason, most folks simply do not want to build manual race cars anymore. For me that isn't an option, everything I build has always been a manual. They are truly my passion......


Like with the Cam/Head install, I've learned a lot about these cars from an engineering perspective.....What I mean by that, is the Daimler designed suspension is lacking in many ways from a performance standpoint. The rubber isolators in the drive train are great for quieting road noise, and reducing drive line shock, however it's a very inefficient means for delivering the torque and power our Gen III Hemi's produce. In an effort to not continually break my drive line, and have the factory take my new 4.29 equipped Getrag, I've decided to install my DSS driveshaft. I'll also be installing Whiteline Urethane bushings in the rear cradle, along with a solid pinion bushing, and H&R springs.


So far I've disassembled the Exhaust. During this process I noticed that my exhaust wasn't connected in several places. This pissed me smooth off, as I had it installed by a reputable local shop. I would never have known if I didn't decide to upgrade the rear diff. I've got pictures to post up, and will do so when I get home. Thanks to all of the members on this forum who've answered many of my questions in the 4.30? thread. I'll bother you all here in this one from now on. Stay tuned and I'll try to keep my bi#ch to a minimum here. All questions and comments are welcomed. If anyone knows of a technique that may work better than what I'm doing please feel free to chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The below attachments are where I'm at thus far, got the exhaust removed, and access to the drive shaft exposed..... I'll be removing the heat shield, drive shaft and braking components tonight. With luck I may be able to get the shocks and rear springs out as well. Time will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just a quick update..... Again I'm at work so no pictures until I get home. Got the drivers side suspension all the way out. Not a fun job, but as with anything I learned. Can't for the life of me figure out why Chrysler (Diamler at the time) choose to use E-torques bolts to hold the rear wheel baring in. That makes absolutely no sense. That said, all is going well thus far. Tonight I'm hopeful I can get the passenger side done, and get the drive shaft out. The bolts for the drive shaft are a beast. My Air compressor wasn't able to get them out. I'll try again, or else it's breaker bar time. Lots of fun still ahead. This is not a job for an average enthusiast. There are tons of things that can go wrong. Once again I found myself saying WTF am I doing to this perfectly fine running car. I'm slightly crazy, but I'm hopeful it will all work out when its completed. The ET's will tell the tale.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No, the 12.3 was with the stock heads/cam combination. It was on a 50 shot of N20 with some timing pulled using diablo intune 1k...... I'm now on a custom tune diablo tune, that I need to port into my HPT for a baseline...... After I finish this upgrade, I'll be going through the tuning process.
 

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Installing the driveshaft is fairly easy, I did it with all hand tools. My 2 cents would be to just use a breaker bar from the start, the bolts come out really easy. The shity part is trying to torque the new bolts to spec, my torque wrench was too fat and I just couldn't get it in everywhere because the driveshaft was 4".

Let me know how the solid pinion support goes. I have one waiting to go in but don't really feel like dropping the whole rear cradle for just that. Haven't seen about maybe just loosening everything and lowering it just enough to get it in.

Also, 4.29s, jesus that's gonna wind up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Here's where I'm at thusfar..... Got the front half of the DSS driveshaft in. Decided to remove the rest of the exhaust (glad I did), got the rear cradle out ( what a PITA by myself), and now trying to remove the bushings. Once I get the replacement bushings in, reassembly can begin. Also have the solid pinion bushing installed. It's a must IMO if you are a manual car. That along with the DSS should eliminate any drive line failures. For those that don't know what I'm talking about, you will see with the pictures I provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After a bunch of Youtube video watching, and several hours down the drain, I'm turning in early. I managed to get one bushing out to the metal sleeve. I haven't found a very good way to remove the sleeve, so I'm going at it with the Saw-All and air grinder tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have some success and be able to get these bushing in. This is really frustrating me. Apparently whenever I do a project, something has to go wrong, or create a little difficulty for me. Fun times for sure. As a matter of reference, there is supposed to be a Crysler tool available for this job. I can't find it, and would gladly pay for it if I could. I'll update again tomorrow with further progress I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So the weekend is over, and here's my update. The Saws-All, worked like a champ on the bush races. I was able to cut out the centers and the burn the rubber. I've gotten the new White Line Bushes in, and they are a much better fit, and design then the stock units. The rear and sub frame are installed in their respective places. Reassembly has begun. I've got pictures but from time to time the site doesn't like to upload them all. I'll attempt to upload pics tonight. I did run into a problem with my right rear subframe bolt hole. The nut that is welded to the body broke when I disassembled the subframe. So I have to cut a hole in my trunk floor and reweld it. Shouldn't be too difficult but more time added to a job that has taken way more time then I would've liked. I'll keep everyone posted as promised.
 

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Lol you weren't bothering my 4.30 thread at all! Your input and experience was more than welcome. I actually just got my 4.30s installed in the car, I posted my review in the other thread. To put it simply, you're going to love them!!!! It's a mod I think the mopar community should really begin to consider as hardly anyone does them.
 

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Dak- does the solid rear pinion support just slide in place from the top of the subframe? After removal of the stock pieces of course. Did it require any real effort in installing is my question.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
NewOldChallenger, You hit the nail on the head. It simply slides into place from above once you replace the old crappy 2 piece factory unit. I put some grease on my just in case, but the fit was absolutely perfect. I have pictures comparing the two, but the site is a pain when it comes to uploading. I'll do my best to get everything up here soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's been a couple of days guys, I've had to catch up on my sleep. That said, I've managed to get the passenger side IRS back together. Still need to fix the cradle bushing, haven't figured out the correct approach to solving the issue..... Open to any suggestions. I intend to get it all ironed out tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update, rear cradle is completely back together, gonna take a few pics after breakfast. DSS drive shaft is completely installed (what a PITA to do alone), and H&R spring set is also installed..... I stripped one of the hub bolts which really pissed me off. I managed to get the bolt 95% installed, then it stripped on me..... A trip to the stealer ship is in my near future.... Going to finish up the front Spring install today, then an alignment, and the reward of driving the car. Pictures on the way here soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Another update...... Got the car completed, or so I thought..... Turns out, I installed the passenger side rear spring upside down..... This actually matters for anyone who is doing a spring kit, my passenger side tire is rubbing on the fender lip, while the drivers side tire has about 3/4 of an inch of clearance...... Hopefully I can get this fixed tomorrow after work along with what I hope is the backing plate rubbing on the drivers side. I managed to get out of my driveway and did a very small part throttle pull. It certainly seams stronger, but I won't know for sure until I get the spring worked out...... Hopefully I'll have better news to report tomorrow. I'm very anxious for a test drive, and break in on the rear. Stay tuned if you are even still interested in this thread. Side note, I have no idea why my phone will not allow me to access the pictures I've taken. I'll have to figure that out once I get the car worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After weeks of late nights, busted knuckles and minimum sleep. I can finally report I'm done with the 4.29 gear swap.....For those of you who are still following along, here's a quick recap, I purchased 4.29 gears from a link out of the 4.30 gear thread. Initially I planned to complete the gear swap myself, however after thinking things threw a bit, I decided to pick up a spare 226 rear diff, and send it out to UNITRAX to have the gear set installed correctly. Now I have a back up diff in case I destroy the 4.29 unit at the track. Along with the new diff, I decided to replace the pinion bushing with a solid bushing from HHP, and the cradle bushings with White Line units sourced from Speed Logix. All parts used are from supporting vendors of the site, and I can honestly say, I've received nothing but the best customer service from each. I highly recommend these vendors..... Along with the cradle upgrades, I also installed a DSS drive shaft & H&R lowering springs. With all of these upgrades done, my car looks amazing, and drives like a completely different beast. I have tons of pictures documenting the entire install, however my iPhone doesn't play nice with this site, and I can't post any of them other then what I did on the first page...... For anyone wanting to do this upgrade, I highly recommend it, but I'd also like you to be prepared that afterwards it will not drive all docile like it did with the factory components installed.








The Pro's and Con's from my install;


Pro, the ride height is amazing, To me this is the way these cars should sit from the factory
Con, I had to buy new tires for the rear of my car, as one side dropped more than the other causing the tire to rub on the body. I may also need to replace my rear shocks.
Pro, Acceleration is darn near instant.... As I stated in the 4.30 thread all M6 cars should have 4.30/4.29 gears from the factory, makes the gears more usable IMO, increases the torque multiplier which is needed in the 5.7 cars.
Con, a few here, my drive line is noisy real noisy, not sure yet what the cause of this is, will have to check clearances on the driveshaft again. Also lots of shifting now (I love this but other many not), I can tell that my fuel economy is going to suffer, this may be a result of my spirited driving though. Lastly I can see the need for a really good radar detector. It's hard not to get on the car when the opportunity presents itself.


IMO this install is about a 4.5 out of 5 wrench level. I ran into a few issues completing this install, but that is to be expected when you are customizing any vehicle. Most issues encountered were corrected with a search on youtube, or a trip to an alignment shop. At the end of the day I'm extremely happy with the end result, and I'm looking forward to racing at Lebonan Valley Speed way this weekend. If all goes well, I'm hoping to post up an 11 second time slip from my baby 5.7 and some bolt on mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow, it's been a while since I updated this thread..... That said I'd like to report that I went to Lebanon Valley the weekend of Oct 20th. I had a complete blast, even though my car did not perform as expected. During my time racing there, I destroyed my transmission. It turns out I broke the 2/3 shift syncro, and ground down a few gears from racing last year. Additionally, the DSS drive shaft I installed was bent (this is why one should check used parts thoroughly). After the poor performance at the Valley, I bought new drag radials, and went to Atco. This was a fun time but terrible decision. It was at the last MSHS event that I completely broke my tranny. The 4.29's worked flawlessly netting me a 1.70 60 without being able to grab second gear...... Broke the syncro the week prior, and further twisted the drive shaft. On the second time trial run, the trans completely gave out, and the drive shaft twisted worse than it was before..... After getting the car home I went to the stealership, and had the trans replaced. The informed me my drive shaft was toast. I had them install a new McCleod clutch alone with a replacement trans (under warranty, yeah me) and reinstall the original drive shaft. The vibration is completely gone now, and my car accelerates even faster than it did when I completed the install. I took a chance and contacted DSS, they are an outstanding company, and anyone who is serious about racing should consider using their parts. They are going to repair my drive shaft for me, even after I told them I bought this part second hand. They stand by their products and want to make it right. I'm very impressed with the customer service I received and will use them again in the future when I upgrade my axles. Hopefully this year I'll finally be able to get that 11 second pass I've been after. Sorry for the long post had to share my experience with the community.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Soooo I’m dragging this thread up from the dead. Today I went to the local track (MIR), and was able to click off a bunch of personal bests. During test n tune I was able to get into the 11’s on a 100 shot. I was also able to dip deep in the 12’s on motor alone. But the best pass of the day was during a free enter $1500 to win gamblers race. It was an 1/8 format so I don’t have full 1/4 times but here I clicked off my first 1.65 60’ time. It’s safe to say now that the 4.29’s really work in an M6 car. IMG_1649.JPG IMG_1652.JPG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for updating the thread. That made it pop up on the "active topics" list. I read the whole thing and certainly enjoyed it. Congrats on reaching your goal. Keep us posted on that driveshaft and its around-town-drivability when ya get it reinstalled.

I see that you were able to post up your pictures of the time slips. Does that mean you were able figure out how to get your iPhone to cooperate with the forum?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for updating the thread. That made it pop up on the "active topics" list. I read the whole thing and certainly enjoyed it. Congrats on reaching your goal. Keep us posted on that driveshaft and its around-town-drivability when ya get it reinstalled.

I see that you were able to post up your pictures of the time slips. Does that mean you were able figure out how to get your iPhone to cooperate with the forum?


Yeah I’m getting better at working my iPhone with the forum. That said I have to use Tapatalk to load pictures from my phone. As for the drivability around town. It sux. I need to get the rear cradle spacers from DSS and then I think things will be better. Right now I have my pinion angled down enough to all clearance. But I’m sure the angle isn’t correct. At high speeds it’s perfect, but normal driving it vibrates terribly. All that said I’m not removing it. I drive way to crazy to ever go back to a stock shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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