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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I already know that this topic has been beaten to death, but I know that more people have installed their own headers since the last time I looked.
I got a set of Hooker Blackheart headers and midpipes. I’ll be installing them in my 2011 Challenger R/T 5.7. Looked under the car a million times and it looks like it’s gonna be as big of a pita as I’ve heard that it is. So any tips and help is highly appreciated.
I also started this thread so that I can have all of these tips and help in the same place, instead of having to look all over the forum for answers.
Thank you all in advance.
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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If you don't have already, go out and buy a nice set of extensions and u joints in 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives. For some bolts I made use of 2 feet of extensions and 2 u joints all on a impact gun to crack off some old bolts. You have to be creative. I did it all without removing the starter or steering shaft. Also make sure they give u the right bolts, my stainless works for some reason gave me m10 bolts when they are m8s, so I went to Lowe's and got a bunch of grade 10.9s myself. Also make sure you save one of the original bolts for the dipstick tube, it has to be one that has a stud in it originally holding the heat shield on. However long you think it will take, it will take 3x longer atleast. Oh and make sure you double check all ur bolts after a few miles of driving, I had a few that completely unthreaded but after one final snug they haven't moved since. I would have an impact gun, all 3 drive ratchets, ratcheting wrenches don't hurt and definitely have short wrenches. Also I did get every bolt installed without removing any motor mounts except for the passenger side top bolt for cylinder 3 ( second one back) for that I had to loosen the motor mount on one side and just Jack the engine up and get it from the top. Use OEM SRT gaskets to play it safe. If you're working on the ground use the cardboard from the headers if you don't have a nice mat. I know I'm all over the place but I'm just trying to remember everything I can from my install 2-3 months ago. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you don't have already, go out and buy a nice set of extensions and u joints in 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives. For some bolts I made use of 2 feet of extensions and 2 u joints all on a impact gun to crack off some old bolts. You have to be creative. I did it all without removing the starter or steering shaft. Also make sure they give u the right bolts, my stainless works for some reason gave me m10 bolts when they are m8s, so I went to Lowe's and got a bunch of grade 10.9s myself. Also make sure you save one of the original bolts for the dipstick tube, it has to be one that has a stud in it originally holding the heat shield on. However long you think it will take, it will take 3x longer atleast. Oh and make sure you double check all ur bolts after a few miles of driving, I had a few that completely unthreaded but after one final snug they haven't moved since. I would have an impact gun, all 3 drive ratchets, ratcheting wrenches don't hurt and definitely have short wrenches. Also I did get every bolt installed without removing any motor mounts except for the passenger side top bolt for cylinder 3 ( second one back) for that I had to loosen the motor mount on one side and just Jack the engine up and get it from the top. Use OEM SRT gaskets to play it safe. If you're working on the ground use the cardboard from the headers if you don't have a nice mat. I know I'm all over the place but I'm just trying to remember everything I can from my install 2-3 months ago. Good luck.
Thanks!!!
I definitely have tools already, and I've also got the gaskets and some Stage 8 locking bolts (those are gonna be fun to install).
 
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