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I just got my 2010 Challenger R/T in November, and she has a little less than 1500 miles on her. While I was at our local Dodge/Jeep dealership (due to one of the two key fobs not working) I asked the service rep when I should bring her in for her first oil change. The Owner's Manual says 6000 miles/6 months, but the service rep recommended 3000 miles. He also said the oil should be changed every 3000 miles due to the "driving conditions" here in western Washington - mountains, very wet winters, etc. Given that I seldom go up into the mountains and the area I live in is pretty flat - plus the fact that my new baby is kept in the garage when she's not being driven - does 3000 miles make sense? Has anyone else in the Pacific Northwest been told this? Thanks in advance for any comments/ advice / opinions about this.
 

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In my humble opinion, only a used oil analysis can tell you when to change your oil but most will not go to that trouble.

At this time Chrysler has the shortest oil change interval of I think any manufacture but that is neither here nor there. I would recommend to anyone to do their first oil and filter change at around 1500 miles and then change the oil and filter at the recommended manufacture’s recommended interval or 6 months there after.

If you use a named brand petroleum oil that meets the specs outlined in the manual (5W20 SM GF4) it will do easily hold up to the factory recommended oil change interval assuming you are using a good filter. Be sure to understand the difference between “normal” and “severe” service described in the manual. Using a 0Wor5W20 SM GF4 synthetic will give an extra level of protection.

If I had purchased an R/T it would have either Mobil 1 Extended Protection 0W20, Pennzoil Ultra 0W20, or Amsoil 0W20 placed in it at every change. If I was pounded on it real, real hard at the strip then I would consider Redline 0W20.
 

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If you have an auto you must use 5-20 I've seen the dealership not warranty an engine useing 0W oil in a 5.7 Auto.. My dealership says that same thing about severe driving conditions. I have had it changed then but everyone says there is no need to.
 

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If you have an auto you must use 5-20 I've seen the dealership not warranty an engine useing 0W oil in a 5.7 Auto.. My dealership says that same thing about severe driving conditions. I have had it changed then but everyone says there is no need to.
I do not doubt that happened but it is ridicules. First, the dealership can not tell if the oil is 0W or 5W20. An oil analysis can not answer that question. Second, as long as the oil used meets the specs of the manufacture and you adhere to manufactures recommended change intervals then your good. A 0W20 is more robust than a 5W20 and to achieve the 0W rating the oil has to have more synthetic base stocks. Lastly, unless the failure that was warranty denied was directly caused by an oil not meeting the manufacture’s recommendation then warranty can not be denied. And, any named brand oil would love to hear of an engine failure that a dealership claimed was directly caused by their lubricant. Manufactures like Pennzoil, Exxon Mobil, Amsoil, and others warrant the engines you use their products in (not valid if racing).

At times I am concerned that I purchase a Chrysler product for it seems in thread after thread that Chrysler tries to find ways to not do warranty work. You do not hear that on GM and Ford boards.
 

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This was a city car and the service manager had warned them that they couldn't use the 0W in there 5.7 cars. The only oil they had was the 0W oil. I'm not sure what was wrong with the engine but he said the city was going to have to pay for the replacement engine. This is just what he told me. But I have read on here alot of times that if you use the 0W oil it is bad on the MDS. Are you saying that's not true
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My Challenger is a 2010 R/T 6sp manual, and from reading the Owner's Manual I see that I can choose to use a synthetic oil or a non-synthetic oil as long as it's SAE 5W-20. I don't know whether or not a synthetic oil is in it now. I've been told that for the first 10,000 to 12,000 miles it would be best to use a non-synthetic oil to help bearings and such "seat" well, and then switch to synthetic. (Or not switch.) Any thoughts on this? Should I get an oil/filter change now (at 1500 miles) and put in a non-synthetic, and then wait until she has 12,000 miles before changing to synthetic? Sorry that I need the "Oil for Dummies" version! I just want to be sure I'm doing the right thing for my car, and I've read enough forum posts to know you guys know tons of things from experience that books can't tell me...
 

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From the factory all RTs have conventional oil in them. I've never heard you couldn't switch to synthetic before 12K untill now. I went to Mobile 1 synthetic from the first oil change and not even the picky place I got the car from said that was bad. They do say I should do the severe oil change schedule but everyone on here will tell you otherwise. I usually go with what these guys say but on that I'm not takeing a chance. If you have a 6 speed the 5W thing I was talking about isn't that important. You don't have MDS and that's were I've heard the 5W thing is very important.
 

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I've been told that for the first 10,000 to 12,000 miles it would be best to use a non-synthetic oil to help bearings and such "seat" well, and then switch to synthetic.
So this is one of those statements you will here from time to time, mostly from older mechanics. This statement, if true, which I don't buy at all BTW, completely contradicts the SRT8 6.1L Engine's demand for a full synthetic oil from day one till end of life.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If R/Ts start off with conventional oil, would it be better to stay with a "good" one rather than going to a synthetic? What is it that's different about the R/T that it doesn't start off with synthetic like the SRTs? For my car, from what I've read here - and thank you very much for these replies - I can get pretty much equivalent value and protection from either a good conventional or synthetic. The local Dodge service shop tells me they use Mobil 1.
 

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My dealership used mobile 1 the first time I got mine changed but now they use penzoil. I went and bought the 7 quarts for them to put in mine last month. I'm not going to get into the oil fight again. There's to many people that have alot of data they want give you. I'm only telling you my feelings about the subject. I put Mobile 1 synthetic in my 06 Motte Carlo SS when I had it and if iot was good enough for it my Challenger RT sure is.
 

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My Challenger ran a 5.36 0-60, when I was at 1200 miles when I switched and I wasn't totally stomping on it. I'll post some pictures on how I do now @ 5000 miles as its pretty much broken in. Many new cars come with synthetic now off the assembly line. My wifes Caddy has factory fill and guess what? Runs just fine and smooth. My Chevy 5.3 Avalanche motor with 68,000 miles runs clean, burns no oil, passes emissions tests with flying colors. I switched it @ 500 miles. Dam it idles as good as the day I bought it!!
 

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I'm not going to get into the oil fight again. There's to many people that have alot of data they want give you.

I hear that itzrick...it's a no win scenario. It's funny that there are so many opinions about oil type, weight, brand and frequency of changing, but 99% of the time, engines are the last item on a car to give up the ghost. At least you don't hear about modern engines failing due to improper lubrication practices, I don't anyway. It makes you wonder if we all are just pawns in the great marketing "Oil Wars" , LOL! Personally, I think so. One thing I do know...most people change their oil WAY to often, with that said...I'll shut my mouth now...
 

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There are a lot of myths and urban legends when it comes to oil and I am just another guy on the internet with an opinion albeit a fairly educated one. In days past gasket materials were generally made of cork. As these gaskets got older they became hard. Additives in petroleum oils helped keep the gaskets soft and minimally sealed. Synthetic oils flow easier, better, etc than petroleum oils and initially synthetics did not have additives for the gaskets so when synthetics were placed in older engines with older hard gaskets the engines sometimes leaked. Thus the legend began that if you put synthetic oil in an engine that had been using dino oil it would start leaking. At one time that was true due to what was explained but not true for at lease 20 years. So in a modern engine, if it has had dino in it and it is not leaking then using synthetic oil in it will not cause it to start leaking. If the engine is leaking dino oil then it will not stop leaking if you use synthetic.

The Chrysler MDS system is activated by oil pressure and is tuned assuming a 20 wt oil. Using a 0W20 instead of a 5W20 will not impact the MDS system. Using say a 0W30, 5W30, or 10W30 could impact the function of the MDS.

If and individual was going to use a true 100% synthetic known as Group IV or Group V oil then it would be best to use dino oil for the first 3K to 5K miles so as to make sure the rings seat properly although these are usually totally seated by the time the car has 50 miles on it. There are very few true 100% synthetic Group IV or Group V oils in the US. Amsoil is a Group IV true synthetic and Redline is a Group V true synthetic. There are a few other GP IVs and GP Vs as well in the US. If you are going to use an off the shelf synthetic oil then waiting 1500 miles is more then enough time. I would include Mobil1, Pennzoil syns, Valvoline syns, Castrol sys, Q State snys, Kendall syns, etc. in off the shelf category. These are what is called Group III oils which are highly, very highly, refine dino oil with synthetic components. Although these are called synthetics in the US they could not be called that in Europe and Australia for they are not Group IV or Group V synthetics.

OK, oil 101. a xW20 oil is a 20 oil, a xW30 oil is a 30 oil, a xW40 is a 40 oil. Oils are highly formulated and are so much better today then just a few years ago. But my point, the number in front larger number indicates how the oil has been formulated to flow or mimic at a certain temp. If you had a sump filed with a straight 20 oil and it was 0 degrees the engine would turn over very slow and once started oil would flow too slow to lubricate critical engine parts. The lower number indicates how the oil will flow in cold temps. A 5W20 oil will flow like it is a 5 oil at a certain temp but it is still a 20 oil.

The guy at the auto parts store, the service writers at the dealership, and the folks at the quick oil change places probably do not know anything about oil. The oil companies know this and thus create ad campaigns to lour you to their products. What you need to know is what the people who designed you engine recommend and that is found in the owners manual. I do not have a 5.7 but I suspect the books recommends using an energy conserving 5W20 SM GF4 oil meeting Chrysler spec MS6395. So when you select an oil, be it dino or synthetic, the most important thing to look for is that the oil in the bottle or jug you are looking at meets or exceed the MS6395 spec and is SM GF4 certified (soon SN GF5 will supersede SM GF4). You will find many dino and synthetic oils in 0W20 and 5W20 weights that meet or exceed these specs.

If you have a 6.1 then a different spec applies.
 

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I hear that itzrick...it's a no win scenario. It's funny that there are so many opinions about oil type, weight, brand and frequency of changing, but 99% of the time, engines are the last item on a car to give up the ghost. At least you don't hear about modern engines failing due to improper lubrication practices, I don't anyway. It makes you wonder if we all are just pawns in the great marketing "Oil Wars" , LOL! Personally, I think so. One thing I do know...most people change their oil WAY to often, with that said...I'll shut my mouth now...
What you do hear a lot of is automatic transmissions pooping the bed. But nobody has an oil debate about ATF's except maybe "change or don't change" when the car has 200k miles on it.

Maybe that is the right debate :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For my R/T, the Owner's Manual (p. 412) says to use SAE 5W-20, API Certified oil. Page 413 says "Use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395..."

Thank you all so very much for your responses. I surely do appreciate this education!
 

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I just got my 2010 Challenger R/T in November, and she has a little less than 1500 miles on her. While I was at our local Dodge/Jeep dealership (due to one of the two key fobs not working) I asked the service rep when I should bring her in for her first oil change. The Owner's Manual says 6000 miles/6 months, but the service rep recommended 3000 miles. He also said the oil should be changed every 3000 miles due to the "driving conditions" here in western Washington - mountains, very wet winters, etc. Given that I seldom go up into the mountains and the area I live in is pretty flat - plus the fact that my new baby is kept in the garage when she's not being driven - does 3000 miles make sense? Has anyone else in the Pacific Northwest been told this? Thanks in advance for any comments/ advice / opinions about this.
With todays modern oil technology it makes no sence at all to change oil any earlier then the owners manual recommends. Owners manual states driving conditions, which doesn't include racing at the track which involves a whole different engine operating conditions vs just getting on it on the street.

If the dealership can get you back in twice as often they make twice as much.
 

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There are a lot of myths and urban legends when it comes to oil and I am just another guy on the internet with an opinion albeit a fairly educated one. In days past gasket materials were generally made of cork. As these gaskets got older they became hard. Additives in petroleum oils helped keep the gaskets soft and minimally sealed. Synthetic oils flow easier, better, etc than petroleum oils and initially synthetics did not have additives for the gaskets so when synthetics were placed in older engines with older hard gaskets the engines sometimes leaked. Thus the legend began that if you put synthetic oil in an engine that had been using dino oil it would start leaking. At one time that was true due to what was explained but not true for at lease 20 years. So in a modern engine, if it has had dino in it and it is not leaking then using synthetic oil in it will not cause it to start leaking. If the engine is leaking dino oil then it will not stop leaking if you use synthetic.

Just to claify it was the lack of additives in oils of yesteryear that caused sludge and other contaminates to form that help keep the old gasket material from leaking due to drying out of the gaskets. When synthetics were introduced into one of these stopped up engines the cleaning abilities of synthetic oil removed the contamination material that was plugging the leak. Thus the engine then leaked. With todays oil additive technology we no longer have this problem along with better gasket materials.

The Chrysler MDS system is activated by oil pressure and is tuned assuming a 20 wt oil. Using a 0W20 instead of a 5W20 will not impact the MDS system. Using say a 0W30, 5W30, or 10W30 could impact the function of the MDS.

Your the man.

If and individual was going to use a true 100% synthetic known as Group IV or Group V oil then it would be best to use dino oil for the first 3K to 5K miles so as to make sure the rings seat properly although these are usually totally seated by the time the car has 50 miles on it. There are very few true 100% synthetic Group IV or Group V oils in the US. Amsoil is a Group IV true synthetic and Redline is a Group V true synthetic. There are a few other GP IVs and GP Vs as well in the US. If you are going to use an off the shelf synthetic oil then waiting 1500 miles is more then enough time. I would include Mobil1, Pennzoil syns, Valvoline syns, Castrol sys, Q State snys, Kendall syns, etc. in off the shelf category. These are what is called Group III oils which are highly, very highly, refine dino oil with synthetic components. Although these are called synthetics in the US they could not be called that in Europe and Australia for they are not Group IV or Group V synthetics.

Your the man again,

OK, oil 101. a xW20 oil is a 20 oil, a xW30 oil is a 30 oil, a xW40 is a 40 oil. Oils are highly formulated and are so much better today then just a few years ago. But my point, the number in front larger number indicates how the oil has been formulated to flow or mimic at a certain temp. If you had a sump filed with a straight 20 oil and it was 0 degrees the engine would turn over very slow and once started oil would flow too slow to lubricate critical engine parts. The lower number indicates how the oil will flow in cold temps. A 5W20 oil will flow like it is a 5 oil at a certain temp but it is still a 20 oil.

and again,

The guy at the auto parts store, the service writers at the dealership, and the folks at the quick oil change places probably do not know anything about oil. The oil companies know this and thus create ad campaigns to lour you to their products. Oh how true.

What you need to know is what the people who designed you engine recommend and that is found in the owners manual. I do not have a 5.7 but I suspect the books recommends using an energy conserving 5W20 SM GF4 oil meeting Chrysler spec MS6395. So when you select an oil, be it dino or synthetic, the most important thing to look for is that the oil in the bottle or jug you are looking at meets or exceed the MS6395 spec and is SM GF4 certified (soon SN GF5 will supersede SM GF4). You will find many dino and synthetic oils in 0W20 and 5W20 weights that meet or exceed these specs. and again.

If you have a 6.1 then a different spec applies.
Kudos to you for your knowledge on oils. My responses in red just so people can see it better. Red has no other purpose.
 

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I just got my 2010 Challenger R/T in November, and she has a little less than 1500 miles on her. While I was at our local Dodge/Jeep dealership (due to one of the two key fobs not working) I asked the service rep when I should bring her in for her first oil change. The Owner's Manual says 6000 miles/6 months, but the service rep recommended 3000 miles. He also said the oil should be changed every 3000 miles due to the "driving conditions" here in western Washington - mountains, very wet winters, etc. Given that I seldom go up into the mountains and the area I live in is pretty flat - plus the fact that my new baby is kept in the garage when she's not being driven - does 3000 miles make sense? Has anyone else in the Pacific Northwest been told this? Thanks in advance for any comments/ advice / opinions about this.
This has been a great thread for info:bigthumb: I had one quick question about info the OP's had in the original post. For example: Say you only drive the car occasionally under normal conditions, maybe only 2000 miles a year for instance or maybe the car has been sitting on the dealers lot for nearly a year with 20 or 30 miles on it. Why does it matter that you change the oil every 6 months regardless of mileage?:scratchhead:
 

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I've had my RT since June of 2009. I only have 850 miles on her. I had my oil changed for the first time before i put her away for this winter in sept. Whats everyones opinion on the "6 month or 3K mile" recommendation. Should you change the oil in 6 months if you've only driven like 100 miles or less?
 
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