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I have no question regarding the quality of the sensors as they've worked fine for 15 months. Prior to the tire blowing, the TPMS worked fine. When it blew, the yellow tire alert flashed and the tire pressure EVIC screen displayed with dashes (=) on each side of all 4 tire icons. The tire was replaced, all 4 sensors test good, and the yellow tire alert icon and the dashes all remain on. I suspect it is the module; but, I will check the fuse first. If it's good, which I suspect it will be, then I'll take the module apart. I didn't know it could be; so, I'll figure that out.
If all was good before the incident then id have it scanned and see what codes are in the tpms system. Help you pinpoint the issue.
 

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Before you remove it, disconnect it, reconnect it, try again ;)

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Before you remove it, disconnect it, reconnect it, try again ;)
Actually, I think I've found the issue and I'm at a loss how to resolve it. When I removed the wheel/tire (I'm rotating them before I head out next week to the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals), I pulled back the splash shield and could get a great view of the entire thing. Without reading your suggestion (great minds work alike) the first thing I did was touch the connector to make sure it was on tight. The damn thing basically adhered to my thumb and finger as it was not connected tightly.

Now, here's my problem. I cannot get the wiring harness connector to seat over the connector on the module. On 1 side of the module connector "sleeve" there is a small molded in "retaining bump" that should fit into a slot in the wiring harness connector so the 2 connectors hold together. There is no way on God's green earth those 2 connectors are going to make contact - much less seat together. I opened up the module to see if the "sleeve" had somehow shifted. All that's in there is a circuit board and there's no way the sleeve and its connections have moved. I also cannot see how there is any damage to the wiring harness connector. Why they will not fit together tighter is beyond me. I'll welcome any suggestions on this one. Right now the car is on jack stands (passenger side only); but, if I don't figure it out in the morning, I'll put it all back together so I can put the tires/wheels back on as I've got other things to do before I leave on Wednesday. I have a feeling I'll still have to figure it out when I return home from Carlisle.
 

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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Does that connector have a red locking tab on it? Is there a connector on the other rear wheel that you can look at to see what is different?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
There is no locking tab. The only thing that appears to be a locking feature is one small angled piece molded into the inner sleeve that I think should fit into a small open spot on the outer sleeve. This is the control module for all 4 tires so there is no such item at any of the other tires. I'll try to take a picture; but, don't know if I can get this small tab to show up well enough to see. I'm off to the garage and will post it in a little while.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Here we go. The first picture shows the small locking "tab". The second picture shows the hole it is supposed to lock into. I can sqeeze the 2 parts together enough that the hole and tab line up; but, the flexible piece with the hole does NOT catch the tab.
Module 1_5_1_1.jpg
Module 2_5_1_1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If duct tape won't fix it, nothing will...unless, of course, maybe nylon tie wraps will.
Module 3_1_1.jpg

I'm going to go out for about a 15 - 20 minute drive and see if I get anything. If not, I'll see about getting the sensors synced on Monday.🙏🙏🙏🙏
 
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Discussion Starter #29
I'll bet it works now.
Sure hope so. Right now I have one more tire/wheel to install to complete the tire rotation. Then I have to torque them all down to specs. Of course, before I can install the last one, I still have to wax the wheel inside and outside. At my age, I don't spend a lot of time at one time to do these things. I find I work best is I also rest between tasks. 🤣 It's times like this I wish I were still 40, 50, or even 60.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I torqued down all 20 lug nuts, got in the car, backed it out of the garage and driveway onto the street. When I put it in forward gear, here's what I saw:
Module result_1_1.jpg


Yes, I need to adjust the air pressure in a couple of tires; but, that's the easy fix. 🤣 Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. A special shout out to mjb4450 for letting me know the location of the control module.

You gents are the best. (y)
 
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Discussion Starter #33
I'm glad you got it fixed without having to go to a dealer & spend a bunch of money.
I stay away from dealerships around me as much as I can. I can't do internal engine and transmission work. I've no idea what I'd be doing. But, I do my own oil changes, tire rotations, have changed trans fluid & filters on previous cars, replaced brake pads and rotors on previous cars, and replaced rear shocks (with quick struts) on other cars. I'm 25 miles from the closest dealership and that would mean 2 cars to deliver my car for service and 2 cars to pick it up as they don't work by appointment. That's a total of 150 miles of driving for the dealer to work on my car. And, in this particular situation, the OEM price is around $125.00 for the module, I've no idea the cost on the wiring and connector; and, we know for a fact a dealer would have likely replaced one or the other or both and would have never done what I did. I'm pretty sure their shop rates are now over $100.00/hour. I understand they won't do a "temporary" fix for fear of repercussions if/when it fails; but, this fix may really be permanent. For many folks, they have to spend money at dealerships. I'm glad I don't. When I did income tax preparation, I never understood why folks didn't save a bunch of money and do their own. Well, not everyone is equipped to do everything by themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
UPDATE: I've got a new issue. The day after I made the prior post showing the EVIC screen reflecting all was well, things went a bit haywire. Remember, this was the right rear tire that blew.

The following day after rotating tires (front to back/back to front - all on the same side) I got readings showing in the range of 47 psi in the rear tires and 34 psi in the front tires. The TPMS icon was lit up on the dash. Naturally, I checked the pressure with my gauge and all were fine in the 33 - 34 psi range. I was gettings ready to head out to Carlisle, PA for the Chrysler Nations and didn't mess with it before I left. Occasionally as I would check the tire pressures they would still give me these crazy readings; but, from time to time it wouldn't show a reading for the left rear tire. Later on it would and then later it wouldn't. I'm thinking it is simply a coincidence this is happening now; but, I also think I may well have a bad sensor in the left rear wheel. Can someone confirm that is most likely what is causing the symptoms I've described? If those more knowledgeable agree this is most likely the issue, I will order an OEM sensor and have my local shop install it. Not knowing what sensors were installed by NTB last year, can I also assume it is not necessary that all 4 sensors be of the same make and model?
 

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Me....personally, I‘d buy all four sensors and be done with it. No need of replacing one here, one there, etc.....like a dog marking its territory.
 

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UPDATE: I've got a new issue. The day after I made the prior post showing the EVIC screen reflecting all was well, things went a bit haywire.
If you do need sensors, you might want to try TPMS.com. I bought a set of OEM Schrader sensors for $100 set. Far cheaper than the dealership. They also sell other brands.
 

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