[OmahaRumble]

Bushings are out of the question for me. I can't do the job and I don't want to pay someone $500 just to get them in.

I read an article on Mopar Now that by changing the lower control arms and tension arms that are sturdier with better bushings that it ELIMINATES wheel hop. Has anybody actually done JUST these two mods on their 6 speed and can attest to these claims the magazine makes

Thanks

 

[OmahaRumble]

Wow nobody has done just these two mods on their 6 speed before? Looks like I'll be the

 

[PSM450]

Also very interested in this

 

[turner56]

I am very curious myself. In my Ford Mustang I did a few things including replacing the LCA and UCL and it stopped the hop. Tech Tips: Lowering and Correcting Wheel Hop on a 2005+ Mustang

PS $700 for rear control arms? That's a stupid amount to pay. I paid $130 for mine on the Mustang

$432.00 for everything.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/Chrysler-...ler-300C-Dodge-Charger-Challenger-Magnum.html

 

[turner56]

Any progress? Don't want to let this thread die!

 

[Green Man]

All,

Earlier in the week I purchased the Spohn Rear Suspension Challenger package LSP-LX consisting of...

LX-REL: Tubular Rear Sway Bar End Links.
LX-204B: Rear Trailing Arms - Adjustable.
LX-601B: Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Rear Position).
LX-611B: Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Front Position).
902: Bushing Grease.

Total for the kit was $616. Shipping was free.

My plan is to install it all this weekend. I don't know if this kit will solve the wheel hop issue. I'll let y'all know how it works.

Regards,

Green Man

 

[OmahaRumble]

All,

Earlier in the week I purchased the Spohn Rear Suspension Challenger package LSP-LX consisting of...

LX-REL: Tubular Rear Sway Bar End Links.
LX-204B: Rear Trailing Arms - Adjustable.
LX-601B: Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Rear Position).
LX-611B: Rear Upper Lateral Control Arms (Front Position).
902: Bushing Grease.

Total for the kit was $616. Shipping was free.

My plan is to install it all this weekend. I don't know if this kit will solve the wheel hop issue. I'll let y'all know how it works.

Regards,

Green Man

I actually ordered the exact same thing for my car which should arrive early next week. I'm very excited to get all of these components on and see/feel the difference the mods make. I think it should eliminate or greatly reduce wheel hop. Spohn is the way to go in my opinion! Great service speaks for itself.

I paid $536 for the same thing though. I also got free shipping. Did you get the adjustable ones?

 

[PSM450]

Looking forward to the reviews and installation comments


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

[Al Bundy]

I will thank you both in advance for any feedback on this setup.

I was at a good track last friday and due to wheelhop it ruined my night.

 

[GARRETTECH]

Being new to the six speed....and feeling a hint of hop on the street practicing my launches....I am also looking forward to two independent reviews of the exact same equipment. I can see how more grip at a track could really get this car hopping.

 

[us1champ]

let me give ALL OF YOU a heads up that are going to put on the control arms.

the bolts on the top FRONT ARM ( toward the front of the car not the rear ones )

the bolts will have to be cut off. you have two choices.. you drop the cradle or you cut them off with a torch. the issue is they put the head of the bolt toward the front of the car. it will not come out as it hits a pc of sheet metal.. the only way around it is to either drop the cradle down far enough so the bolts clear.. or take a torch.. back the nut off. cut the bolt take a punch.. punch the bolt thru TOWARD THE FRONT of the car.. cut the head off then punch the bolt out.

when installing new bolts put the nut TOWARD THE FRONT of the car.. i know this make zero sence.. till you look at it and you will go WTF.. why did they do that.

trust me. it is like that on EVERY CHALLENGER>.. CHARGER... AND MAGNUM

good luck
i know it was a pain

chris

 

[PSM450]

Ouch, is there enough room to use a hack saw or a dremel with a cut off wheel?

If you slide the bolts in the way you plan on doing, will the threaded end hit the sheet metal?

Some pics would be great

Good luck!


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

[sick'r bee]

Good luck, but you should START by replacing the cradle bushings they are the "weak link" and everything else bolts to that cradle and the rubber is very cheap on these cars. Replace them and do the rest at the same time and avoid having to cut off those bolts, maybe a larger rear swaybar and those Spohn rear links, without replacing the rubber bushings you are essentially putting a "$50 saddle on a $10 Horse".

 

[OmahaRumble]

Good luck, but you should START by replacing the cradle bushings they are the "weak link" and everything else bolts to that cradle and the rubber is very cheap on these cars. Replace them and do the rest at the same time and avoid having to cut off those bolts, maybe a larger rear swaybar and those Spohn rear links, without replacing the rubber bushings you are essentially putting a "$50 saddle on a $10 Horse".

Good point sicker. I talked to the shop whose going to do the install and they said they would probably have to drop the cradle anyways to get to the bolts. Since I'm getting the sway bar links, LCAs and tension arms, I might as well get some Whiteline cradle bushings since the carrier will be dropped. Oh boy, this is a lot more expensive than I thought, however I think it will all be worth it in the end.

I'm actually going to wait though, and see if Green Man was able to get rid of the hop WITHOUT changing the bushings.

My parts should be here next week. If I find out there is hop, I'll get the Whiteline bushings and do the whole shabang. :guiness:

 

[sick'r bee]

Good point sicker. I talked to the shop whose going to do the install and they said they would probably have to drop the cradle anyways to get to the bolts. Since I'm getting the sway bar links, LCAs and tension arms, I might as well get some Whiteline cradle bushings since the carrier will be dropped. Oh boy, this is a lot more expensive than I thought, however I think it will all be worth it in the end.

I'm actually going to wait though, and see if Green Man was able to get rid of the hop WITHOUT changing the bushings.

My parts should be here next week. If I find out there is hop, I'll get the Whiteline bushings and do the whole shabang. :guiness:

NP Google installing the bushings and you should find a Rockwall press setup that makes it a breeze or at least easier than cold chisel method, I have some friends that pass around one for the installs, Whiteline or Pedders or even the Aluminum ones but they are around $500+. Walkout is what U/I are fighting and even though you may get away for a WHILE by not replacing them, you will either thank me later, or kick yourself later ALL da same to me!

 

[Green Man]

All,

The Spohn kit came in today. Here is an annotated picture of the hardware and diagram. The instructions are pretty good with torque values for all the bolts. All bushings come pre-lubed. The trailing arm comes adjusted to the factory length. The hardware all looks and feels like top quality...tig welds are beautiful. I see in the diagram the front upper lateral arm bolt. Like most "sugar coated" instructions it doesn't say anything about removing that bad boy. I've hack-sawed bolts off before...if that's what it takes! One problem is getting replacement bolts before the job starts. I think I'll contact them and ask about that bolt. Are you certain US1Champ that bolt is installed the same way on all years? Maybe I'll get lucky.

They say in the instructions to raise up the rear of the car and put it on jack stands and then support the differential "slightly". I think I'll remove the sway bar links first to get to the other bolts more easily.

Don't think I'll get the job done Sunday. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Green Man

 

[Al Bundy]

Dropping the cradle is not hard, do however use a paint marker and mark around the bushing points so you can get it back in the original location.

I would also have the alignment checked after install. You may even play with the rear toe just a bit to fine tune out the hop.

 

[Fawls]

Watching with interest. :huh:

 

[OmahaRumble]

Yeah, definitely not going to tackle this with me and my neighbor. I am not comfortable hacking off bolts. How on earth do you torque down the bolts from that angle on the far end of those LCAs? Even with a creeper doesn't it require like well over 100ft/lbs?

Man, my parts will look EXACTLY like those except my tension arms aren't adjustable. Very very good looking pieces of suspension parts. Looks very tough and the bushings will be light years ahead of what we got.

I just can't buy the new bushings on top of all this. I promised my wife this was all I would get. I can't lie to her just for selfish wheel hop reasons. As they say, "happy wife happy life." And no she's not the type who would want diamonds and goods to satisfy her, she's as thrifty and simple as it comes. (which is great for our bank account LOL)

I just pray that this kit we got greatly eliminates if not, at least "eradicates" (as Mopar Now says) the wheel hop. According to the Spring version of Mopar Now, they did they same thing we did, except used the ridiculously expensive Razors Edge parts. They said that after they put new tension arms and LCAs the wheel hop was gone, and this was without changing the rear bushings. Spohn parts may not be the exact same as Razors Edge, they are still hella good.

Thanks for the update Green Man, please let us know when it's all done and you test to see if it hops or not. I know we don't have progressive rated springs, but the STP springs are tighter than the non STP ones, so that's something in our favor. :thumbsup:

 

[us1champ]

I am 100% certain all yrs are the same. I have a 09. A friends Magnum is a 06? Another charger is a 08 and a friends 12. All the same. No a hack saw won't work or a dremel. No room to get to it. I have a car lift. Worked on it eye level I couldn't get a saw all with a 12 blade in there. Or a dremel with a flex cable. Or a air cut off. Either from the outside or inside under the car. U either torch them. Or drop the cradle. Stupid as this is the only bolt that is a pain..

sent from mobile device