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Discussion Starter #1
So I just pick myself up a complete 6.4 Block last weekend. The beauty of this is it is already a manual block so I won’t have to waist money on lifters and MDS delete stuff. I’d like to thank DV8 Performance for the excellent deal. What a great guy he was.

With all of this said I’m thinking I want to try to reverse engineer a Hellion/Granetelli style turbo setup. The plan is to forged the short block (since it needs at least 2 piston) with 4032 pistons and Molnar Crank and Rods. Im thinking I’m going with the 4.00 Stroke and 6.125 rods. If the engine calculator programs I’ve used are correct it will end up right at 420.2 cubes. I’m sure some of you are going to say why not 426. The answer is simple here. This block has around 19k miles. I can still see cross hatch on all cylinders including the ones that had the damaged pistons. No scoring of any kind on the block either so I’m keeping the bore factory @ 4.09 to cut down on machining cost.

It will get a Hellcat can and Demon windage tray to help keep the oil where it needs to be on hard launches. I’m thinking I may have to take my 4.30 gears down to 3.73’s but we shall see. Hopefully when this is all said and done I can put the car in the 10’s in less than 15 psi and still be street able. Lastly the Baby 5.7 will find its way into my 63 Dart with a Magnum T-56. Oh and the TR-6060 is still holding up it too will stay in the car but get some upgrades in the near future. Thanks for looking at my ramble. I’ll share everything I can with you all as thing progress. I’m sure it will be a slow road as I have a bunch of honey do stuff to do also.


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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
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Definitely sounds interesting, any pics of the Dart?
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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I posted this before, but have you seen this article?


One thing I have not been able to find info on when swapping a new Hemi into an older vehicle is how to deal with VSS signal (provided by ABS module). I have seen a couple of guys get stumped by it but have not seen a clear solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Challytatum I think I’ve read that article before. Not sure if it was in one of your posts or something I came across myself. My plan is similar to Dave’s but I intend to have more Cubes and use two medium T3 turbos. I’m not a fan of the NSR setup as of yet. Which is why I’ve choose the Hellcat cam. As you know it is a proven factory boost rated unit.


As for the Dart I have pics but it is in original 50+ year old paint. It is pretty much an original /6 3 on the tree car. It will get finished eventually just have to complete the two projects ahead of it. I am a typical car guy with way to many ideas and not enough time or money to finish them all. I just can’t get rid of my projects so I keep them. One day, When there are no kids in the house I hope to finish all of this stuff so I can get my brain back. Until then I wrench on.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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@Prostreetamx has a Javelin with a 5.7 in it, he may be able to speak to the ANS issue. I know he said a truck 5.7, but I don't know if he said year

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well in typical fashion, I may have found a decent deal on a Procharger, which presents a problem for me going the twin route. This unit is head unit only, so I'm wondering what a good price would be to pay for that. It would mean that I'd have to source mounting bracket's BOV/boost controller, and piping/IC. All of which can be had from Brute Performance, but I don't want to get into piecing a kit together that will end up costing me more than going a twin route would. What do you guys think? Any thoughts are very much appreciated. For the record there is a fair amount of assumed sunken cost for me here. So shoot any idea's you can come up with and also please make suggestions on your thoughts for which way I should go where boost is concerned.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Well in typical fashion, I may have found a decent deal on a Procharger, which presents a problem for me going the twin route. This unit is head unit only, so I'm wondering what a good price would be to pay for that. It would mean that I'd have to source mounting bracket's BOV/boost controller, and piping/IC. All of which can be had from Brute Performance, but I don't want to get into piecing a kit together that will end up costing me more than going a twin route would. What do you guys think? Any thoughts are very much appreciated. For the record there is a fair amount of assumed sunken cost for me here. So shoot any idea's you can come up with and also please make suggestions on your thoughts for which way I should go where boost is concerned.
Generally you are better off with a full kit made for the engine/car. The mounting brackets must be very rigid and precisely made to ensure the belt doesn't slip or get tossed and tracks true for thousands of miles.

The hoses want to be formed to have the proper routing to avoid contact with anything that can rub a hole in a hose. They want to connect without having to stretch or somehow shorten the hose to deal with excess hose material.

If you try to accomplish this piece meal you are probably in for a hard time. Worse, it may cost you a motor before you get everything sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Generally you are better off with a full kit made for the engine/car. The mounting brackets must be very rigid and precisely made to ensure the belt doesn't slip or get tossed and tracks true for thousands of miles.

The hoses want to be formed to have the proper routing to avoid contact with anything that can rub a hole in a hose. They want to connect without having to stretch or somehow shorten the hose to deal with excess hose material.

If you try to accomplish this piece meal you are probably in for a hard time. Worse, it may cost you a motor before you get everything sorted.
All very good points however the bracket kit I’m looking into is a Procharger specific setup, I’m also looking at the crank mounted unit so that no belt slippage is possible and instant boost is obtained in all gears. Just not sure how Streetable the crank kit is. With respect to the hoses I’m going to tig weld up those and only use cuplers for the connection points. I’m not a fan of the rubber hoses they always tend to create problems. I would use the same approach on a twin setup. I want as much stainless or aluminum as possible.


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All very good points however the bracket kit I’m looking into is a Procharger specific setup, I’m also looking at the crank mounted unit so that no belt slippage is possible and instant boost is obtained in all gears. Just not sure how Streetable the crank kit is. With respect to the hoses I’m going to tig weld up those and only use cuplers for the connection points. I’m not a fan of the rubber hoses they always tend to create problems. I would use the same approach on a twin setup. I want as much stainless or aluminum as possible.


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Which head unit did you come across and how much boost are you planning on running?
 
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