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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen a couple threads but most are 2-3 years old. I am currently looking for my first Challenger I want the V8 and have around 17k(With Tax Title And Fees) to work with and in my area (about 300 miles from 28463) so most of my options seem to be higher mileage than probably best however I plan to put in a new stroker and SuperCharging as well as the tranny being rebuild it so the mileage should be less of an issue(I think). With that information is there any advice you would like to give me? I should be looking at cars from 80k to 100+k mileage other than the normal rust on the undercarriage and checking if the Timing chain was replaced during the recall. Thanks In advance!
Here is My Checklist currently:
  • Jack it up and take a look at the undercarriage
  • The timing chain recall was on Challengers 2009-2012 with 5.7l and Automatic transmissions. Here is a link to the notification.
  • Call them out on the wrong kind of transmission(4 Speed?? I think it should be a 5 speed Right?)
  • Take a good look at the rotors and look at the amount of pad left
  • Check All Fluids
  • Downshift Manually Listen for any Noises.
(Ps. Also sorry about formatting and possible Grammar I am on my phone)
 

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That was good typing for being on the phone. : )

Definitely pull a car fax on the one that you decide on. It should tell you about recalls, maintenance, any accidents, number of owners and much more.

You mentioned some major transmission, engine upgrades, but I am confused as to why you don't just take that extra coin and buy an R/T that is a few years old with much less mileage.
 

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Inspect bushings - front suspension. The front tension arm bushings are a wear item to look out for when the miles build up.

Also ball joints would be another area.

Odds are with the miles, the original shocks / struts might be wearing out, depending on the roads it was driven on.

Another item - if it has the touch screen radio - check that it works. Some of the older units seem to have the HDD die off.

Check the HVAC controls - there should be no flashing indicator lights (indicates a fault if flashing)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alright, Thank you, Hal.

ChallengerBoston I Am wanting to do a lot of the work my self and kind of get my hands dirty myself on this one and if I go for the cheaper car in the short term I have more money to mod and do other stuff to the car later. Even if I Bought a brand new RT I would want to do most of the mods (Forged internals, Charger, Ect.) anyway just for the enjoyment of making the car my own in a sense.
 

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Check that the axle shaft boots are in good condition. Usually you will see grease slung on the inside of the wheel if the clamps are not tight or missing. Look at the tires to see if there is any unusual wear pattern. Test drive at highway speeds to make sure rear end does not whine or the car does not shimmy. Pay attention to how the A5 trans shifts, making sure shifts are firm especially from 1-2..2-3. Check that the windows seal properly. Check for fuel staining around the intake manifold/heads as this may indicate the manifold bolts are loose. Check if heated seats (if equipped) work. Slowly rev the engine to 3k and listen for pronounced valve train noise (around 1.5 to 2k) and tick at idle. Even though you plan on swapping the motor, doesn't hurt to make sure the existing one is working. Listen for popping or clicking at low speed, tight turns....Well that is all I can think of. If you are going to install performance mods, you most likely will need to swap out rubber bushings, axles, engine mounts...as they may fail due to their age and the increased power they will be subjected to.
 

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Look out for that rocker panel rust issue rearing it's ugly head. Higher milage Challengers around 6 years old are starting to rust pretty bad. That would assume the salty road snow states are the worst. I'd be shopping for one in Arizona or Texas personally.
 

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Check the tranny fluid, if it smells burnt or looks very dirty don't buy it.
 

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Look out for that rocker panel rust issue rearing it's ugly head. Higher milage Challengers around 6 years old are starting to rust pretty bad. That would assume the salty road snow states are the worst. I'd be shopping for one in Arizona or Texas personally.
Or California/Nevada.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I ended up buying this (Can't Link Yet Not enough Posts) 2010 Challenger R/T with 100608 for 14500(Included the Virginia Fee $500) last Friday(11/24/17) I got a glimpse of what the dealer paid for it on his monitor and he paid 13850 for it and it had been sitting since Sept. The issues with it are more visible than one that I test drove. It had some cosmetic dents(Should be able to be fixed with some paintless dent removal) the head unit's touchscreen does not work and the interior door pull handle is broken on the passenger's side(I have already Super glued it together until I buy a completely new handle. It has the 8 speaker Boston Acoustics, Seat Warmers, and Sun Roof(I did not want this but *shrug*). All in all looking at comparable cars in my area it seems I got a pretty good deal.
 

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So I ended up buying this (Can't Link Yet Not enough Posts) 2010 Challenger R/T with 100608 for 14500(Included the Virginia Fee $500) last Friday(11/24/17) I got a glimpse of what the dealer paid for it on his monitor and he paid 13850 for it and it had been sitting since Sept. The issues with it are more visible than one that I test drove. It had some cosmetic dents(Should be able to be fixed with some paintless dent removal) the head unit's touchscreen does not work and the interior door pull handle is broken on the passenger's side(I have already Super glued it together until I buy a completely new handle. It has the 8 speaker Boston Acoustics, Seat Warmers, and Sun Roof(I did not want this but *shrug*). All in all looking at comparable cars in my area it seems I got a pretty good deal.

Congratulations! You did your due diligence and made a thought out choice. More than most of us can say. LOL!
Good luck and some pics when the time is right.
 

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I was told by another R/T owner that they tend to run hot with higher mileage so might want to keep an eye on that.
 

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I was told by another R/T owner that they tend to run hot with higher mileage so might want to keep an eye on that.
that would point to scale build-up in the radiator core - probably not using distilled water
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was told by another R/T owner that they tend to run hot with higher mileage so might want to keep an eye on that.
I ran it for about 10 hours(with a 3-hour break at the 6-hour mark) the weekend I got it(running about 80-85) this should have made any cooling issues rear their head correct?
 

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I ran it for about 10 hours(with a 3-hour break at the 6-hour mark) the weekend I got it(running about 80-85) this should have made any cooling issues rear their head correct?
I would think so.
 

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that would point to scale build-up in the radiator core - probably not using distilled water
Good to know, Thanks Hal.
 
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