[Charles 236]

Yes, definitely avoid the '78-'83 model years, the Mitsubishi "Challenged". They were sporty cars in their day, but fortunately, that day is long past. Even when I went car shopping back then, the salesman couldn't interest me in one of those.

 

[Pauljw]

I prefer the interior design and dash layout of the pre-15 models. I also prefer my full leather seats and the fact that I didn't need an unlocked computer to put a tune on it. I also think the polished aluminum wheels are the best looking wheels ever. Good luck with the hunt!!

 

[Frank Julian]

1978-1983
View attachment 1013126
A Guy

Damn it, now I want one with a Hellcat motor in it. What a sleeper!

 

[Nuke]

1978-1983
View attachment 1013126
A Guy

BUSTED!! That is a photoshopped picture, @A Guy, so stop trying to pass it off as genuine.

Anyone with half a brain can see you took a picture of a Dodge K car

and photoshopped it with a picture of a Monte Carlo Aerocoup.

Nice try though, the blend is seemless!

 

[JD40]

Woah, can I say something for the earlier R/Ts? I currently own two 2010 Challenger R/Ts that have NONE of the issues mentioned above. In all, I have owned 15 Challengers, 8 of them pre-'15 models, 5 of which were R/Ts. All were problem free for me, except one car I had to replace the rocker panels because they did warp. None had rust, none had any MDS issue (I did do the recall on the timing chain tensioner though), yes, they were a bit bit more crude than the latest versions but I just bought a 2010 Plum Crazy Purple Classic with only 22,000 miles for just at $19,200. There are some great deals to be had out there.
Now it is possible some of those items listed in the previous comments above me are true and accurate for what they have witnessed, but like the engine issues, there are a TON of high mileage R/Ts available out there, would they have lasted this long with serious engine problems?
Yes, there are early Challengers out there that have the rusting issue, it's well documented and I have seen a few on 2nd hand dealer lots. No doubt, however, not enough time has really progressed to ensure the post '15 cars won't also be saddled with this issue. I have owned 7 of the '15-'19 models, still have one in my garage too. The rockers are different, so are the mounting tabs but the sills still have the dang foam filled cavities of all my early Challengers.
I will say, the '15 and up Challengers drive really well, built to a high level compared to the earlier models and the technology built in is pretty damn good.
These are great cars and you can get one fairly inexpensively, do your homework and shop wisely. -Steve

View attachment 1013071

Me and my brother both have 2010 R/Ts as well, mechanically no issues whatsoever. 75k miles on mine and 165k miles on his, he has auto and I have manual. Rust tho has been an issue on the rear quarters. NJ, almost every challenger I see that's daily driven for 3+ years has it around here. Even my cousins '16 silverado is rust ridden.

 

[brybis-75]

I bought a 2015 R/T manual brand new, and so far i've put 80k miles on it. The only issue I would look out for is the driveshaft, probably a month ago the center bearing went out in mine. I took it to a shop they told me it couldn't be fixed Mopar doesn't sell the bearing. That set me back about $1,000 installed. Other than that the Hemi is an amazing motor and i've never had any issues whatsoever. So I have to disagree with those that say 2017 and up, the 15 is just as good. She doesn't have Apple Carplay though

 

[68Coronet]

I'd avoid any Challenger that shows signs of engine modifications. Be sure to check the CARFAX, of course. Go for stock, always. If it's not stock, walk away! Most Mopar dealerships won't take modified vehicles in on trade, so you should be okay. Nothing worse than buying a vehicle with someone's grime on it. If you don't plan of racing your Challenger, go for the 345 R/T. Plenty of power for street use. If you are going to track it, the 392 is the one to get.

 

[JD40]

I'd avoid any Challenger that shows signs of modifications. Be sure to check the CARFAX, of course. Go for stock, always. If it's not stock, walk away! Most Mopar dealerships won't take modified vehicles in on trade, so you should be okay. Nothing worse than buying a vehicle with someone's grime on it. If you don't plan of racing your Challenger, go for the 345 R/T. Plenty of power for street use. If you are going to track it, the 392 is the one to get.

I partially disagree. It depends on how it's modified, 4ex my car came with just a simple K&N Cai and catback and some audio stuff that was clearly professionally installed. Stuff like this I don't see any problem with, now when a used car is tuned in anyway I would stay FAR away, any motor work, headers, etc. Is a no for me.

 

[68Coronet]

I partially disagree. It depends on how it's modified, 4ex my car came with just a simple K&N Cai and catback and some audio stuff that was clearly professionally installed. Stuff like this I don't see any problem with, now when a used car is tuned in anyway I would stay FAR away, any motor work, headers, etc. Is a no for me.

Agree. I was referring to engine modifications. Fixed!

 

[Stratrocs]

Thanks everyone! Your awesome. Appreciate the advice.

 

[Professor X]

I agree that it's better to have the 8-speed auto than the 5-speed Benz unit--but just get a manual so it doesn't matter. My '12 is trouble-free.

 

[mattnicol]

I currently own a 2015 Scat Pack, headers, cam, cat-backs. Used to have a, 2010 Detonator Yellow Classic R/T. I loved that car, wish I could find her and buy it back. Matt N.

 

[eddyg]

Woah, can I say something for the earlier R/Ts? I currently own two 2010 Challenger R/Ts that have NONE of the issues mentioned above. In all, I have owned 15 Challengers, 8 of them pre-'15 models, 5 of which were R/Ts. All were problem free for me, except one car I had to replace the rocker panels because they did warp. None had rust, none had any MDS issue (I did do the recall on the timing chain tensioner though), yes, they were a bit bit more crude than the latest versions but I just bought a 2010 Plum Crazy Purple Classic with only 22,000 miles for just at $19,200. There are some great deals to be had out there.
Now it is possible some of those items listed in the previous comments above me are true and accurate for what they have witnessed, but like the engine issues, there are a TON of high mileage R/Ts available out there, would they have lasted this long with serious engine problems?
Yes, there are early Challengers out there that have the rusting issue, it's well documented and I have seen a few on 2nd hand dealer lots. No doubt, however, not enough time has really progressed to ensure the post '15 cars won't also be saddled with this issue. I have owned 7 of the '15-'19 models, still have one in my garage too. The rockers are different, so are the mounting tabs but the sills still have the dang foam filled cavities of all my early Challengers.
I will say, the '15 and up Challengers drive really well, built to a high level compared to the earlier models and the technology built in is pretty damn good.
These are great cars and you can get one fairly inexpensively, do your homework and shop wisely. -Steve

View attachment 1013071

Hi, i have a 2009 RT, 5000 miles, Cali car, just bought in May of 20, its showroom condition, i sure as hell hope it doesnt have engine issues later on, im retired GM and change oil every 3000 miles, i like ur post, nice cars

 

[hunttriumph1500]

I currently own a 2015 Scat Pack, headers, cam, cat-backs. Used to have a, 2010 Detonator Yellow Classic R/T. I loved that car, wish I could find her and buy it back. Matt N.

That's exactly how I felt, my 2010 Detonator R/T Classic was my first Challenger and I had to get it back!! Well, an exact replica anyway..1st pic, my replacement, 2nd pic is of my first one..

Hi, i have a 2009 RT, 5000 miles, Cali car, just bought in May of 20, its showroom condition, i sure as hell hope it doesnt have engine issues later on, im retired GM and change oil every 3000 miles, i like ur post, nice cars

Take care of it and it will be just fine! Thank you for the kind words, I love my cars, ask anyone who knows me and the first word(s) will be "car-guy"....

 

[GAHemiguy]

I still drive my 2009 R/T w/ ~140k miles that I bought new in Feb '09. It's not my daily driver anymore (2019 Grand Cherokee), but I'm still happy when I do drive it. Sure, I've thought about Hellcats & Scat Packs and will probably "upgrade" at some point...but I can say that I haven't had any kind of deal-breaker moments with my car. I did have the timing chain and airbag recalls done as soon as they were available. I also have had to replace battery, alternator, water pump, HVAC expansion valve (after assuming it was a common blend door issue and sweltering all summer), and some minor things that never set me back much from a time or money standpoint. For now, the car still brings a big grin to my face every time I drive it.

 

[Kazi]

Guess you can find an issue with any of them. Just just don't settle for the first one you see. I have a used 2014 R/T Classic and chose a 14 because I liked the fore and aft styling as well as the dash over the 15-up. Took me 6 months of looking before buying mine 2yrs ago. The 28k on the odometer, and the radar red interior along with the 21k price tag compared to the almost 41k original sticker price which was my target price. Car had a ton of maintenance reciepts and very well cared for. It was new enough for me and still looks and performs as new. Good luck.

 

[Stratrocs]

Guess you can find an issue with any of them. Just just don't settle for the first one you see. I have a used 2014 R/T Classic and chose a 14 because I liked the fore and aft styling as well as the dash over the 15-up. Took me 6 months of looking before buying mine 2yrs ago. The 28k on the odometer, and the radar red interior along with the 21k price tag compared to the almost 41k original sticker price which was my target price. Car had a ton of maintenance reciepts and very well cared for. It was new enough for me and still looks and p View attachment 1013916 erforms as new. Good luck.

Thanks! That’s a beauty and worth the wait. Great advice, I really appreciate it.

 

[DWBruiser]

I have an 09 R/T with a manual and I have not had any issues to speak of. My advice would be a later model with the 8-speed if you have to have an auto. I test drove an '18 F8 R/T with the 5.7 and that puppy came to life. The 8-speed, as has been said before here, is a much better transmission than the earlier 5-speeds. You can also fit more rubber in the wheel wells in the back. I tried to put 315s on 10.5" wheels on the rear and couldn't even get the wheel to sit flush on the hub. Even with 10mm worth of wheel spacers it still rubbed. Later models only need slight modification of the fender well to fit that size of tire on it. I ended up with 275s, which is still better than 245s. Later models also have more driving modes. My 2009 doesn't have anything like sport mode and I had to get a pedal tuner to liven the thing up a bit. However, a friend of mine has a '16 Scat and with the different driving modes the throttle is super crisp and responsive. A blast to drive.

As for motors, I really don't think you can make a bad choice between the 5.7 or the 6.4 but if you want the extra power I would say the 6.4 is worth it. That said it will be more expensive and the 5.7 offers plenty of get up and go so if you're looking for a cheaper thrill that would probably suit you best.

 

[jwalilko]

Hi all! New to this Forum. I’m thinking about buying a used R/T with auto trans for a fun weekend ride. The stock performance would be fine and want to personalize it for sure with wheels, trim, graphics etc. Ideally a shaker hood would be my preference but not a deal breaker. I’m open to any years and just want to get the most reliable and trouble free one as I’ll be retired and on a limited income. Really appreciate your input.

Haven’t had a muscle car since 1972 when I had a 13-second ‘Cuda.

I own a 2009 R/T 5.7,auto trans, since new. 181,000 + miles, No Problems ! I had the air bag and timing chain recalls done. The water pump was leaking at 111 k miles, replaced for free under warranty. ( '09 model year has lifetime engine, trans, rear axle warranty ) No engine mods, totally stock. Hemi Orange. Still looks great at 11 years old. I change the oil every 5,000, new plugs every 40k, I drive it aggressively, I don't baby it. Tires last about 50k, brakes almost the same. I looked at the new ones, but I still like this one better. Only problem is rear quarter rust issue. I know a few friends who have the 6.1 or 6.4, they love the extra HP, but the 5.7 is more than enough, in my opinion.

 

[Mike.T]

I partially disagree. It depends on how it's modified, 4ex my car came with just a simple K&N Cai and catback and some audio stuff that was clearly professionally installed. Stuff like this I don't see any problem with, now when a used car is tuned in anyway I would stay FAR away, any motor work, headers, etc. Is a no for me.

I think that is what he meant, audio, lighting ect not a deal, cam it, headers, tuners. It's been abused.