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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
anyone do a v6 to srt 392 front coil swap? UPDATE I'm doing the swap now.

Just starting to look at the v6 front coils springs to be swapped into a 2015 srt 392, seeing if anyone has done this swap, i need to find out if the v6 has more coil windings then the v8 and see if the v6 spring can be physically fitted to the front end of the v8 chassis. Old racer trick to help in weight transfer.
 

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Lots of guys do this mod for weight transfer. If I’m not mistaken the V6 springs have a lighter load rating which in turn helps with weight transfer. I’m not sure how many winding are in them but I know folks are putting them on the 90/10’s & 70/30’s


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Discussion Starter #3
Lots of guys do this mod for weight transfer. If I’m not mistaken the V6 springs have a lighter load rating which in turn helps with weight transfer. I’m not sure how many winding are in them but I know folks are putting them on the 90/10’s & 70/30’s


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I'm looking on ebay now looking at used challenger front struts and coils, looks like both v6 and v8 challengers have about 5 1/2 windings. need to dig deeper I guess, some places are selling the front coils for v6 and v8 cars using the same part number?

hoping "lots of guys" that do this mod speaks up with some part numbers, other wise I might just have to purchase an old set and do a trial an error deal.

like to do this mod when I have the rear all tore apart so i can go in for one wheel alignment after all the changes
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
"2017 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack stock front coil springs just taken off low miles." - picture on the far left below i found on the net, to compare coil counts.

So this is probably under my 2015 srt 392, found this picture on ebay ,they are selling these that came off a 17 scat pack. they look to have right at 6 turns on the coil.

The dirty coil spring and strut (with red over spray on it in the middle) came off a 2010 challenger 3.5, far as I can tell it has about 7 1/2 turns on the coils.

Thought I just share these pictures, not much information out there about this swap that I have found.

I did find a picture of a 2015 challenger sxt ( the nicer black coil spring/strut to the far right) it has about 5 turns on it.

The more turns the better regardless of spring rate, more turns hold more energy for lifting.

So right now it looks like the 09-10 3.5 v6 springs seem to have more turns and look like to be the ones to use.


After some digging around on ebay looking at pictures up close, I went ahead and bought left and right side struts of a 2010 3.5 challenger, the middle picture below, I spent about 140 bucks for the pair. I guess I will give that a try and see what I come up with on my 2015 SRT 392 and post back the results if they work or not.

So that way there is a future thread on the v6 to v8 spring swap.
 

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Good info here. Thanks for sharing. I’m staying tuned I. To hear your results.


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Discussion Starter #6
Good info here. Thanks for sharing. I’m staying tuned I. To hear your results.


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No problem, I have looked for hours and days all over the internet, boy talk about not finding anything on the v6 to v8 swap, folks talk about it, but no one ever puts any details in- like what the springs came off of, or if they used the whole strut assy. A lot of vague info.

So I guess I will be as informational as possible on this thread here and probably repeat it many times, so there is no confusion.

Still waiting for the struts to show up, I would have liked to put the whole strut in, but from what I gather if I unplug the wire harness from my strut (active suspension on the srt 392's), it will throw a light on. So I really don't want that, so I will hopefully be able to swap the springs from the 2010 3.5 v6 challenger straight onto my 2015 srt 392 challenger.

I will also take some measurements, I know right now as my car sits, it's only 1/2" higher in the back than the front and that's measuring right thru the center of the tire to the middle of the wheel well. I will get what those measurements are and get those posted up as well.
 

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From what I understand you can only use the springs from the V6. You’ve already mentioned you have adaptive suspension which is why you can only use the spring. I wish I could go this route. But I lowered my car with H&R springs. So I have to go to a drag strut to get the effect you are attempting to get. By the way your logic is sound with the number of coils holding more energy. I can’t wait to hear what your before and after 60ft times are.


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Discussion Starter #8
Went out to the shop last night after work and measured the stance of my 2015 SRT 392 Challenger.

Both sides on the front measure 29 1/2" from the ground to the center of the wheel well.

Both rear measure 30" from ground to center of wheel well. This is with the stock size tires on the car 275 40 20 sumitomo tires.

I'm hoping the front will come down just a tad with the v6 springs. I will soon see if this works.

I'm taking a half coil off the rear to stiffen the spring rate to help drive the rear tires into the ground as well, got some
bmr lower trailing arms, and some camber bushing to straighten up the rear tires.

Which by the way, the rear tires tilt in 5/16" or .89 neg degrees of camber. According to stock specs this is proper neg camber on the rear.

I'll be taking the front sway bar off as well.

Also to help with traction I bought some 295 40 20 nexen tires, they have a lower tread wear rating ( not by much) than what I have now, they are larger in diameter to increase the launching ( forward) foot print to the ground and also much wider. Not a perfect tire, but should be a better tire than what I have now.
 

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Went out to the shop last night after work and measured the stance of my 2015 SRT 392 Challenger.



Both sides on the front measure 29 1/2" from the ground to the center of the wheel well.



Both rear measure 30" from ground to center of wheel well. This is with the stock size tires on the car 275 40 20 sumitomo tires.



I'm hoping the front will come down just a tad with the v6 springs. I will soon see if this works.



I'm taking a half coil off the rear to stiffen the spring rate to help drive the rear tires into the ground as well, got some

bmr lower trailing arms, and some camber bushing to straighten up the rear tires.



Which by the way, the rear tires tilt in 5/16" or .89 neg degrees of camber. According to stock specs this is proper neg camber on the rear.



I'll be taking the front sway bar off as well.



Also to help with traction I bought some 295 40 20 nexen tires, they have a lower tread wear rating ( not by much) than what I have now, they are larger in diameter to increase the launching ( forward) foot print to the ground and also much wider. Not a perfect tire, but should be a better tire than what I have now.


A good Set of Drag Radios. Will help out much better. If you aren’t up for that many including myself have had great success using Arturo 850’s. The BMR trailing arms are a great addition and should help out tremendously. Keep us posted on how cutting the coil effects your daily drivability. I’m not a fan of cutting coils but I know lots of folks who have done this on other platforms with no ill effects. Good luck on your quest. If you don’t mind me asking what times are you targeting.


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Discussion Starter #10
A good Set of Drag Radios. Will help out much better. If you aren’t up for that many including myself have had great success using Arturo 850’s. The BMR trailing arms are a great addition and should help out tremendously. Keep us posted on how cutting the coil effects your daily drivability. I’m not a fan of cutting coils but I know lots of folks who have done this on other platforms with no ill effects. Good luck on your quest. If you don’t mind me asking what times are you targeting.


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Yes drag radials will be great help, but at a cost of about 750 bucks I'm not willing to burn a set down while still working on the suspension and learning to launch this car before heading to the track. This car is different than my supercharged v6 challenger as far as torque curve goes and requires some seat time for muscle memory. My v6 I did some suspension work got the car to hook fairly well with 220 wear rating tires and was repeatable, I knew I was close to having enough suspension work done to harness the power and then I put drag radials on it and had 100% traction all the time. So my drag radials weren't spinning and wearing them down to quickly.

So I bought a cheap set of much larger tires ( 270 bucks) for my SRT that was just slightly better than what I have on the car. This will allow me to make changes to the suspension and to get to hook better. Then once I figure I'm done with the suspension and it's all I can do to get it to hook then I will put some drag radials on it. Which should allow me to be a little more aggressive on launch and probably won't over power the tires at the track.

Right now, my thinking is, front of the car- v6 spring for quicker rise, remove sway bar for quicker rise and weight loss, find a set of tires that are lighter than current tires for reduce weight and allow the front suspension to react quicker, possibly the 2 lbs front bumper to shave about 20 lbs off the front of the nose and any other objects that I can remove to save weight on the front- plastic covers on the engine, under hood padding and such, little things that might add up to a few lbs.

The rear- larger tires, bmr lower trailing arms, correct the negative camber closer to zero, cut coils to increase spring rate to help drive the rear tires in the ground harder and help with wheel hop, poly sway bar bushing and tighten up all the stock rubber bushing to compress them a little more to help to make them slightly more rigid where I can. Looking into rear shock tower brace and some cradle bushing too- hop not kit or something like that, maybe even some sub frame connectors if they make such thing. Just snooping around to come up with some ideas and make changes that help in traction.

So kinda cheap changes that don't break the bank and other possible changes as I progress thru the suspension to get the power to the ground.

I'm just looking at trying to get this car off the line clean and quick, I just want to harness the power that is there now, no sense in making more power/torque if I can't launch this car with some decent 60ft times.

Goal is to tinker, have fun, and to keep finding things to chip away at the e.t., whatever it runs is what it runs, it should be quicker than my v6- I hope......lol.

I don't have any baseline numbers at the track, I only have a few numbers right now off the dash readings, best 0-60 is 4.4 with wheel hop on a great concrete road, and a few 12.9 passes with a 4.9 and 5.0 0-60 mph times attached to those e.t.'s on a road surface I normally practice at- which is less than stellar for sure but a safe place for me to make runs. I will know if I'm making improvements with seat time and as the numbers get better on the dash. For example just airing down my tires that I currently have, I went from a few 13.4 1/4 mile passes to those 12.9 and went from 5.4 0-60 to the 4.9 and 5.0's on the same road I practice at. So that's the only data I have to start off with. It's better then none.

All of this is prep work before I hit the race track to see what this car runs with a stock tune/engine- I do plan on doing the hellcat air box, hellcat filter or K&N drop in filter, porting my throttle body and intake manifold myself. new plugs and sos coils- which I have bought all of these things already, they are sitting in the shop. I may for fun hold off on those and just do chassis changes to establish repeatable 60ft times and then do all the intake changes and go back to the track with only those changes to see if it helped or hurt- it's a lot of changes but from the research and prior testing they do help. It would be fun comparison. Is all those intake changes worth anything on a stock tune, or will it kill power. be fun to see the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE

Went out to the shop and got started on the spring swap, the first picture shows my spring and strut off my 2015 srt 392, the coil has 5 1/2 windings and the spring wire diameter measures at .590" thick with coating.

The second picture is a close up of the part number of the srt spring.

The 3rd picture is both the srt strut (yellow) and the 2010 challenger v6 spring and strut. The v6 spring has 7 1/2 coil windings, the coil spring wire measures .520" with coating.


The 4th picture shows the part number on the v6 spring.


The 5th picture shows both springs the shorter one is the srt spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This picture shows the v6 spring installed onto the srt strut ready to install back into the car.

I had to rotate the lower rubber spring seat to get every thing lined back up to bolt back in. I got one side done of the drivers side so far. After I lowered the car I pushed down on the car and I could feel the difference between the v6 spring and the srt spring, the v6 spring seems to compress easy.

I will get the other side done tomorrow and take it for a drive and measure the fender height once again to see if it drops some and report back on how it feels.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Didn't get to finish today had to work on my daughters car. So here's another picture. The 2010 challenger v6 strut won't fit on the srt 392. The lower mounting bracket is to small to fit on the srt 392.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got the v6 springs installed and let the car down, the front end measured 30 1/4" from ground to fender. Well I took it out for a spin and ran it over some rough areas to help settle the front end down got on it a few times, the front end really comes up. to be fair I did remove the front sway bar while I was under there. I like the lift on the front end.

I got back home and the front end measured 30" so this means the front is 1/2" higher. I really thought those v6 springs would have dropped the front end some. So sitting there thinking, I looked at the v6 struts and it appears that the v6 rubber pads are thinner.

So it looks like I will take off one off the srt struts again and take a closer look at the rubber spring pockets and see if that's why the front isn't dropped down.

I like the effects of the lift im getting but I would like the front end to come down at least another 1/2" back to stock. So I have more work to do and see what I come up with on the rubber spring pockets.
 
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Thanks for keeping us all updated with this endeavor.


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Discussion Starter #16
Finally got the v6 springs installed in my srt, took them out and put them in several times trail and error getting the right combination of parts.

So here's the end result.

The car sits now at 29 1/4" from ground to fender well, this is a whole 1/4" lower than stock.
I have one extra coil over stock to provide a little extra energy on front end lift on launch.

With all 7 1/2 v6 coil windings shoved into the same space as the stock srt 5 1/2 coil windings, the car sat up 1/2" higher than stock, I was not happy with that, so I took out the v8 rubbers and swapped out to the more worn out rubber pockets that came on the v6 strut and cut a couple inches off each end of the coils. I reinstalled and that didn't really help.

So i took them back out again and went ahead and cut off just over a half coil.

So I have a total of 6.5 turns, this is only one more coil winding over stock. but it's still more turns and the springs are smaller diameter wire and the springs are still much taller than stock. I got my car slightly lower which was a goal. so I take this as a win.

There was limited moves to get my car back down to stock ride height without cutting some of the coil, so I gave up almost a full coil, I did what i could to keep the even spacing between the coils, the parts of the coil that was bent on the end I removed since they should have less effect of actual spring rebound- I could be wrong on that, but point was made to preserve as much of the actual spring even spaces, just cut off the end parts that are bent to pinch on the strut to keep it from walking around.

Picture with both springs, the longer spring was the final product I used over stock ( shorter one), the other picture shows the total of coil material I removed.

Why did I do this "mod", I needed my front end to come down, knowing I will be cutting the rear coils to increase spring rate to help aid in traction I only had about 1/2" rake in my car, I now have 3/4" and this might increase over the next few weeks if the front end will settle down some. So this gives me some room to lower the rear of the car, I want my car to sit level or with a very slight rake once I get the rear end modifications done.

So since I needed the car lower in front, thought I would do a v6 spring swap, so the front would come down and I could get the benefits of the more coil windings for quicker rise. I will be looking at getting some light weight tires to mount and possibly shorter tires yet to help bring down the front end some more and if I need to, I can redrill the lower bracket on the strut and lower the car much more-so I have a few moves left to lower the front if my coil cutting gets out of hand on the rear.

The car sure does pop up in the front end, I don't have no way to measure how much but never the less nothing is worse off, all is better towards the goal of getting this car to hook, all the small changes will add up.

all this cost me 140 bucks and several days of tinkering.

So now onto the rear mods, I'll be making my own hopnot kit, get the cradle bolted solid to the body, lower bmr bars, cut the coils, larger 295 tires, wheel alignment for 1/4 mile racing. See where that gets me and go from there.
 

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Wow you are getting after it. I’ll be keeping an eye out. Hope this works or well for yah.


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