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I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 392 cam for my '13 R/T 6m. I'm curious if anyone has or has seen ballpark what kinda times R/Ts with intake, headers, 392 cam and tune are running in the 1/4 mile??
 

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I tuned a 12 yesterday with 6.4 cam, intake, and exhaust. It made 380/370 basically. That is almost exactly what a stock 392 car makes. I would say high 12's in a 6 speed car. Low 12's in an auto
 

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Was that on a conservative Mustang Dyno? Otherwise I would say those are more like 6.1 numbers...which is still stout!
 

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I tuned a 12 yesterday with 6.4 cam, intake, and exhaust. It made 380/370 basically. That is almost exactly what a stock 392 car makes. I would say high 12's in a 6 speed car. Low 12's in an auto
Any loss of torque below 3500 rpm ?

Here is a dyno graph.Owner ended up going slower at the track due to loss of low end torque, the power increase at the upper range was not enough to produce better times.A high stall converter may of helped.
 

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I'm no expert, but I don't really see a loss of low end torque... sure the curve isn't ideal but it's still higher than the baseline throughout the pull... I would say something else caused the slower time.
 

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Any loss of torque below 3500 rpm ?

Here is a dyno graph.Owner ended up going slower at the track due to loss of low end torque the power increase at the upper range was not enough to produce better times.A high stall converter may of helped.
There is no loss of torque down low. I am not going to get drawn into a debate on it, but more than likely it was a loss of traction not a loss of torque. I see folks do mods and go slower all the time. Just because you make more power doesnt mean you go faster. The chassis has to work, the car has to hook.
 

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There is no loss of torque down low. I am not going to get drawn into a debate on it, but more than likely it was a loss of traction not a loss of torque. I see folks do mods and go slower all the time. Just because you make more power doesnt mean you go faster. The chassis has to work, the car has to hook.
Moreover, and to your point, the engine is well above 3,500 rpm as it is going down the track.
 

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I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 392 cam for my '13 R/T 6m. I'm curious if anyone has or has seen ballpark what kinda times R/Ts with intake, headers, 392 cam and tune are running in the 1/4 mile??
No track time here, but getting good 1/4 mile times is subjective at best. Go ahead and pull that trigger! This Cam works great!!!
 

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I will post my timeslips. My results may appear disappointing but keep in mind the driver and traction factor. I have no before timeslips to compare them to. Caveats are. That night was my first time at the track in 10 years. It was also my first time driving a six speed at the track. I was running 235/55R18 Goodyear Comfortred Assurance tires. So let's just say spinning was the name of the game. In comparison of my times my tuner ran a Trinity time of 13.2 and complained about the lack of traction. He believes it's a 12s car with better tires.

Therefore, I provide my times. I'd hate to see people claim that the 392 cam runs high 13 when it is a lack of traction and driver experience getting those times.





 

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Look at your 60ft bro. 2.30 and 2.36 you can drop that et a Bunch just at the starting line. A little less there is a whole lot less out back in ET
As mentioned you picked up 3mph also. 6 speeds are a tuff deal in the ET game.
FlatTop
 

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As a rule of thumb whatever you pickup in the 60ft can usually be doubled at the big end. A reasonable 60ft would be 1.8. That's more than a second in the quarter with proper traction. That car needs to leave at 3500-4000 and hook. You'll be surprised what it runs


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Gentlemen. I appear to have worded my statement poorly. I believe that the cam is worth far more than my times at the track show. I was and am placing all the blame for the poor times on me the driver and the tires. I fully expect my car would have run in the 12s with a good driver and good rubber. I only provided my information to give an idea of what the car will trap and run with no traction and a inexperienced driver rowing his own gears. To emphasize the point those time slips are from the same night. That's how much variation I have in each run. I didn't even know where I was supposed to let off at the end of the 1/4 so I may have been coming off the gas too early too lol!

I now have a supercharger as well but will not go to the track until I get some slicks. I compared my Trinity timed 1/8 mile runs and with my supercharger I am slower by .2 seconds though my trap speed is up 10mph.
 

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Dodge Tony is a different and exceptional class of driver.

Unless the 5.7 is equipped with a very weak OEM camshaft, do not see how a camshaft designed for an engine nearly 50CID larger and meet emissions would benefit a smaller engine, other than push the Hp peak higher. Unless the smaller engine has appropriate supporting driveline mods. Typically you want to increase duration and tighten the lsa/icl and increase overlap to build mid-range torque but both increase emissions which is why an aftermarket one is preferred over an OEM one. The former will maximize performance and not be a compromise to meet regulations compared to the latter.

I think folks are selecting the 392 camshaft based on cost as a Comp. one is much more expensive than an OEM one.
 

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Dodge Tony is a different and exceptional class of driver.

Unless the 5.7 is equipped with a very weak OEM camshaft, do not see how a camshaft designed for an engine nearly 50CID larger and meet emissions would benefit a smaller engine, other than push the Hp peak higher. Unless the smaller engine has appropriate supporting driveline mods. Typically you want to increase duration and tighten the lsa/icl and increase overlap to build mid-range torque but both increase emissions which is why an aftermarket one is preferred over an OEM one. The former will maximize performance and not be a compromise to meet regulations compared to the latter.

I think folks are selecting the 392 camshaft based on cost as a Comp. one is much more expensive than an OEM one.
Ultimately yes. Increase in performance and it only cost 70 bucks versus 800.
 

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I found these for manual transmission cars:
Eagle Cam Specs:
188/205 @ .050"
243/267 @ .006"
.312"/.304" lobe lift
.500"/.486" valve lift
115 LSA

6.4L Cam Specs:
215/221 @ .050"
.353"/.333" lobe lift
.574"/.541" valve lift
121 LSA
108 ICL

I wonder if the 6.4L cam shaft can be reground on tighter LSA to improve Mid-range? Similar done by Katech for the LS6/LS2 in regrinding the camshaft from 118lsa to 112lsa. Made a tremendous improvement in acceleration. Worth studying considering how heavy both cars are 1st Gen CTS-V and Challenger. Overall gearing is similar as well on the manual transmission models.
 
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