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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #1
I think I may have to take my car in and have the timing chain recall work done to my engine, but I’m pretty sure I will have to pay for the service instead of getting it done gratis as a recall. I know it will be expensive, but I would like an idea of how expensive so I can plan accordingly now.

Does anyone know what the approximate cost of this work (parts plus ~4 hrs labor) might be?

I’m really just looking for a ballpark estimate here; $2,000, $5,000, etc.

Because as much as I love The Bacon Hauler, let’s face it, there is definitely an upper limit to how much money I should be spending on keeping the engine healthy in an 8 year old former cop car with 192K miles on it...
 

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Didn't yours go in for a cam replacement prior to you buying it?

Odds are it would have had the new aluminum chain guide done - the original all plastic one probably would have been worn down.

The parts (front timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, oil pump tube O-ring, updated cam phaser, chain tensioner, chain guide) that were typically replaced in the P01 campaign. There also was a newer design oil control solenoid.

you also end up doing an oil change as well, since some coolant ends up in the oil pan and you need to drain the oil for the procedure anyway.

The parts and 4 hours labor is probably in the $1,500 - $1,800 range

I'd ballpark the labor is probably more like 8 - 9 hours as you have to remove the alternator, a/c compressor from the front cover, remove the belly pans and I'd imagine dropping the radiator (from below) since the harmonic balancer had to be removed to get timing cover off.
 
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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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I think I may have to take my car in and have the timing chain recall work done to my engine, but I’m pretty sure I will have to pay for the service instead of getting it done gratis as a recall. I know it will be expensive, but I would like an idea of how expensive so I can plan accordingly now.

Does anyone know what the approximate cost of this work (parts plus ~4 hrs labor) might be?

I’m really just looking for a ballpark estimate here; $2,000, $5,000, etc.

Because as much as I love The Bacon Hauler, let’s face it, there is definitely an upper limit to how much money I should be spending on keeping the engine healthy in an 8 year old former cop car with 192K miles on it...
If there is a recall, FCA will pick up the tab, if there isn't, why do you think you need to have this done, and finally, why wouldn't you do this yourself? It's easier than replacing a starter on a Ford...
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #4
Didn't yours go in for a cam replacement prior to you buying it?

Odds are it would have had the new aluminum chain guide done - the original all plastic one probably would have been worn down.

The parts (front timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, oil pump tube O-ring, updated cam phaser, chain tensioner, chain guide) that were typically replaced in the P01 campaign. There also was a newer design oil control solenoid.

you also end up doing an oil change as well, since some coolant ends up in the oil pan and you need to drain the oil for the procedure anyway.

The parts and 4 hours labor is probably in the $1,500 - $1,800 range
Yeah, the cam and lifters were replaced at the 90K mile mark just prior to me taking ownership. It was still in service as a squad and presumably fell victim to the seized lifter/chewed up cam problem.

That was in April of 2016, so it would have been well after the recall was issued.

My concern is that since its VIN would not have identified it as being subject to that recall back then, they might not have installed the upgraded parts to satisfy/rectify the recall condition.

In looking at the recall notice itself, my car met all the conditions used to flag a car as being subject to the recall except one - the rear-end ratio. Recalled cars had to have a 3.06, 3.73, or 3.90 rear-end, and mine was built with a 2.65. However, I upgraded the rear-end earlier this year to a 3.06 unit from a wrecked Challenger, thus qualifying me for the grand prize it would seem. 🥳

If your dollar estimate is close, and I have no reason to believe it isn’t, then it seems I have a decision to make. $2,000 was going to be my limit on what I’d pay to get this done. But even at a little less than $2000, I’m waffling on whether it’s worth it to me right now...

Hmmmm....🧐
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #5
If there is a recall, FCA will pick up the tab, if there isn't, why do you think you need to have this done, and finally, why wouldn't you do this yourself? It's easier than replacing a starter on a Ford...
I considered doing it myself, but after reading the steps required to do it and seeing the list of special tools needed to complete it, I’m reticent to think I can get it done successfully without breaking something else or taking 1-2 weeks to complete the job.
 

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It will likely never be an issue unless you're using MDS.
 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #7
It will likely never be an issue unless you're using MDS.
I had wondered how much effect the MDS operation might have on the premature wear that the recall is supposed to address/prevent.

I noticed the recall specified auto transmissions only, so MDS sprung to mind as a contributing factor to the problem. I disabled the MDS on mine pretty quickly after acquisition, so out of the 100K miles I’ve put on the engine, only the initial 10-15K miles max were subject to any MDS operation at all.

But MDS has been disabled since before the rear-end upgrade that put me in the recall’s wheel house, so a total of 0 miles of the 10-12K miles since the rear-end upgrade have been subject to MDS operation.

Yeah, I’m starting to think this might be a good scenario in which to apply the old “Let sleeping dogs lie” adage.

If I go through with this service now, I could be potentially dumping more money into the engine than the car is worth (on the resale market; to me it’s priceless!!), and there is no guarantee that I’d be preventing something from happening that even had a likelihood of happening...a slim possibility at best, is more accurate I think.

But more importantly, I now have your iron clad promise it won’t happen to my engine, right @72/340?😁

Still, just to be safe, I’m gonna need your personal cell phone number in case it does happen and I’m left stranded somewhere...that way you can come fix it for me! ;)
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #8
Alright, the decision has been made - I will NOT be pursuing this recall’s prescribed service and parts replacement on my engine.

Im gonna tempt fate and roll the dice that I’ll have stopped driving the car, or be prevented from driving period, long before this timing chain problem could affect my engine at some point in the future.

Thread is officially closed!

Now, we drink!!! 🍺🍻🍺🍻🍺🍻
 

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I considered doing it myself, but after reading the steps required to do it and seeing the list of special tools needed to complete it, I’m reticent to think I can get it done successfully without breaking something else or taking 1-2 weeks to complete the job.
There's really not any special tools since you're not removing the cam.

Basically it would involve rem.oving the oil pump since the chain guide is covered up by the pump and you need access the two bolts for the guide. The chain tensioner is similar - two bolts secure it and the oil pump comes out of the way.

What I'd do is zip tie the chain at the mid-point to avoid getting any slack and replace those components With the timing cover off, before you even take anything apart you could see whether the all-plastic guide (early = black, late= white) or the aluminum w/ white nylon overlay.

Odds are at 90K new parts were used as part of the cam replacement since all that stuff came out to change the cam. Unless you have a broken guide and timing chain noise, you're probably okay.
 

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Alright, the decision has been made - I will NOT be pursuing this recall’s prescribed service and parts replacement on my engine.

Im gonna tempt fate and roll the dice that I’ll have stopped driving the car, or be prevented from driving period, long before this timing chain problem could affect my engine at some point in the future.

Thread is officially closed!

Now, we drink!!! 🍺🍻🍺🍻🍺🍻
Reopened! If it does fail, that's about a $10K fix...
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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If it does fail, it's back to a Challenger, but at least a R/T for Nuke

A Guy
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #12
Reopened! If it does fail, that's about a $10K fix...
Sheeeet, a $10K fix to The Bacon Hauler is a new(er) Bacon Hauler that costs (at most) $10K!!
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #13
If it does fail, it's back to a Challenger, but at least a R/T for Nuke

A Guy
At this point I don’t care what it is, just as long as it has one of them new-fangled ZF A8 transmissions y’all keep rubbing in my face.

Im gonna have one of them betwixt me and my next engine of it’s the last thing I do!!
 

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Left Twix, or Right Twix?

A Guy
 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #15
There's really not any special tools since you're not removing the cam.

Basically it would involve rem.oving the oil pump since the chain guide is covered up by the pump and you need access the two bolts for the guide. The chain tensioner is similar - two bolts secure it and the oil pump comes out of the way.

What I'd do is zip tie the chain at the mid-point to avoid getting any slack and replace those components With the timing cover off, before you even take anything apart you could see whether the all-plastic guide (early = black, late= white) or the aluminum w/ white nylon overlay.

Odds are at 90K new parts were used as part of the cam replacement since all that stuff came out to change the cam. Unless you have a broken guide and timing chain noise, you're probably okay.
you left out the part about taking loose the alternator as part of getting the timing cover loose and then bolting it back to the engine and timing chain cover to finish up the procedure.

it took me 4 days to swap out my alternator on this car, so those two steps alone in that procedure will probably add 24-36 hours to the total time spent on the service if I do it myself.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #16
Left Twix, or Right Twix?

A Guy
I ain’t picky, it can be peg-legged Twix or LSD Twix (???), just as long as it’s a ZF A8 Twix.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Oh man, the LSD Twix...the colors...

A Guy
 
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When you go on the owner's site, do any recalls show up for your VIN?

If so, then I'd take it in and get it done as a free recall. If not, then I'd roll the dice and hope that you won't have any issues.
 

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you left out the part about taking loose the alternator as part of getting the timing cover loose and then bolting it back to the engine and timing chain cover to finish up the procedure.

it took me 4 days to swap out my alternator on this car, so those two steps alone in that procedure will probably add 24-36 hours to the total time spent on the service if I do it myself.

The alternator in my '11 Challenger R/T went poof back in 2015. A buddy of mine who was a long-time Dodge master mechanic quickly told me, "I know you like to do your own work, but you don't want to do that job yourself." He's never steered me wrong.
 
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Reopened! If it does fail, that's about a $10K fix...
that must be if there was valve / piston contact involved for that price
 
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