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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #1
Like the subject says, I'm wondering if anyone has ever disassembled the rear Power Distribution Center (aka fuse box) in their Challenger.

I tried to pull mine apart to investigate why the main power bolt in there is so loose. And I do mean loose too, check it out for yourself:


What's up with that?!?!?


Anyway, I see clips on the upper half of the PDC, so it can clearly be separated from the lower half where the main wire bundles come in:

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...but after spending some considerable effort trying to get the dang thing apart, I got a little worried it may not be wise to separate the thing now that's it's been assembled.

I tried just looking up into the dang thing to see if I could tell what's holding that bolt down (and why it might be loose), but there's nothing but a mess of tangled wires in there:

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...which makes me even more nervous to take it all apart.

Little help?

Anyone?
 

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That loose stud use probably normal, what it hitting something, does it get tighter when your put the not on? The pdc is not serviceable, what was the issue that brought you too did it was loose?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #4
That loose stud use probably normal, what it hitting something, does it get tighter when your put the not on? The pdc is not serviceable, what was the issue that brought you too did it was loose?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Yep, it ceases its looseness upon application of the nut (giggity). A fact which seems so clear and easy here in the light of day, yet was oddly unclear at 2 in the morning. :7:

Good thing I wasn't drinking last night, I'd have a busted Challenger today for sure!

Thanks for the reply none the less!
 

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Yep, it ceases its looseness upon application of the nut (giggity). A fact which seems so clear and easy here in the light of day, yet was oddly unclear at 2 in the morning. :7:

Good thing I wasn't drinking last night, I'd have a busted Challenger today for sure!

Thanks for the reply none the less!
Where, exactly, did you find the nut? Since we have similar electrical problems, I'm going to check all of this on mine in the morning. BTW, I have an appointment with the dealer on Tuesday to have it repaired for the third time. I'll let you know the results, but I intend to leave it with them for a week this time, so they can make sure the thing is actually fixed.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #6
Where, exactly, did you find the nut? Since we have similar electrical problems, I'm going to check all of this on mine in the morning. BTW, I have an appointment with the dealer on Tuesday to have it repaired for the third time. I'll let you know the results, but I intend to leave it with them for a week this time, so they can make sure the thing is actually fixed.
The nut normally holds down the lead from the positive battery cable but isn't in that video because i removed it to disassemble everything.

I've been pouring over the service manual's procedure for diagnosing the P0622 DTC, and it's a doozy. The first step is to test the Generator Field harness connector with a test light, an if it's flashing, it says to replace the generator.

Since they've done that with yours twice now, I'm guessing they followed they followed that procedure and got that result and followed the manual to stop there and replace the alternator.

But since that hasn't fixed it, I dont envy them the task of trying to figure what to do next because the manual says one thing and doesn't offer any help beyond that.
 

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The nut normally holds down the lead from the positive battery cable but isn't in that video because i removed it to disassemble everything.

I've been pouring over the service manual's procedure for diagnosing the P0622 DTC, and it's a doozy. The first step is to test the Generator Field harness connector with a test light, an if it's flashing, it says to replace the generator.

Since they've done that with yours twice now, I'm guessing they followed they followed that procedure and got that result and followed the manual to stop there and replace the alternator.

But since that hasn't fixed it, I dont envy them the task of trying to figure what to do next because the manual says one thing and doesn't offer any help beyond that.
My service manual doesn't have any wiring diagrams. If I had them, I'd have a chance of figuring it out myself. Without them I have no way of knowing how much wiring there is, and what it connects to. It will take a real technician to troubleshoot this, not a parts changer.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #8
My service manual doesn't have any wiring diagrams. If I had them, I'd have a chance of figuring it out myself. Without them I have no way of knowing how much wiring there is, and what it connects to. It will take a real technician to troubleshoot this, not a parts changer.
Do a search for posts (not threads) created by Nuke with keyword P0622 and you should get a hit on a convo i was having with @Billet Silver Bill that has the wiring diagrams that come along with the steps to diagnose this DTC. I think it in the Prius thread, but can't remember at the moment. Too many Blue Moons....is there such a thing?
 

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I just went and pulled mine apart for you.

You can take off the lower plastic casing and put it back on rather easily, I did it in less than 5 minutes.

The bolt is simply held in by compression via the metal plate it sits on. Mine was only a little tighter than yours is once I took the nut off the bolt.

At the back of the bolt, the "head" area is a square/cube of metal. That cube sits in a housing made up of the plate metal that can be seen around the bolt when you first open the fuse box. I didn't completely disassemble this part, but from what I saw, the metal plate is just compressed into the plastic fuse box (like an upside down U meaning it only makes contact with the plastic fuse box on two sides, not four) and then the bolt is held in the slot by compression of the metal and small metal tabs that protrude from the metal plate.

It is possible that those metal tabs are worn down on yours causing the head of the bolt to be looser. It being that loose shouldn't really be a problem once you replace the nut and tighten it down (unless the bolt pulls through the plate meaning the bolt "head" is broken off in the back). If you need some more help or something, let me know.

Regards
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #10
My service manual doesn't have any wiring diagrams. If I had them, I'd have a chance of figuring it out myself. Without them I have no way of knowing how much wiring there is, and what it connects to. It will take a real technician to troubleshoot this, not a parts changer.
Probably a little late, but here's that post I was talking about with the wiring diagrams for diagnosing a P0622 DTC:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f118/haiku-time-again-603354/#post7749969
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #11
I just went and pulled mine apart for you.

You can take off the lower plastic casing and put it back on rather easily, I did it in less than 5 minutes.

The bolt is simply held in by compression via the metal plate it sits on. Mine was only a little tighter than yours is once I took the nut off the bolt.

At the back of the bolt, the "head" area is a square/cube of metal. That cube sits in a housing made up of the plate metal that can be seen around the bolt when you first open the fuse box. I didn't completely disassemble this part, but from what I saw, the metal plate is just compressed into the plastic fuse box (like an upside down U meaning it only makes contact with the plastic fuse box on two sides, not four) and then the bolt is held in the slot by compression of the metal and small metal tabs that protrude from the metal plate.

It is possible that those metal tabs are worn down on yours causing the head of the bolt to be looser. It being that loose shouldn't really be a problem once you replace the nut and tighten it down (unless the bolt pulls through the plate meaning the bolt "head" is broken off in the back). If you need some more help or something, let me know.

Regards
Thanks for the info, it confirms what I now believe - the loose bolt isn't a problem once tightened down with it's corresponding nut.

I didn't start out thinking there would be anything out of the ordinary with that PDC, but when I noticed that bolt being so loose, it did worry me enough to want to find out why. Then when I could not get the dang thing apart to see what it looked like underneath, I got even more uneasy.

But all is well, I'm quite sure my issues are somewhere else! :|
 

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Probably a little late, but here's that post I was talking about with the wiring diagrams for diagnosing a P0622 DTC:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f118/haiku-time-again-603354/#post7749969
Thanks! I found it too. The flow chart in it says to replace the alternator before it goes into any of the other checks. That means that if something is making the alternator fail, it won't be found if only the flow chart is used. There was only one page of the wiring diagram in your post, and for a recurring problem like this, the entire wiring diagram is needed. Some of those seemingly meaningless numbers on the diagram refer to components on other pages.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! I found it too. The flow chart in it says to replace the alternator before it goes into any of the other checks. That means that if something is making the alternator fail, it won't be found if only the flow chart is used. There was only one page of the wiring diagram in your post, and for a recurring problem like this, the entire wiring diagram is needed. Some of those seemingly meaningless numbers on the diagram refer to components on other pages.
The service manual PDF is too large to attach (>200MB), so I shared it out in my Google Drive if you want to download it: https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B3ISyrRQO5VlZFlwbnBzX3JNTVk

The pages I attached to that other post start on page 4566 of the manual, and the section 8W it refers back to starts on page 3345.

While I don't know if it matters much for this particular issue, you should keep in mind that this manual is from 2006, so the wiring diagrams for some things are not going to be an exact match to yours.

Nuke
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #14
I feel compelled to provide an update on my attempt to slay this nasty P0622 dragon, if for no other reason than sheer happiness at not having to deal with in the last 10 days or so.

Alright, so the recording, yet frustratingly intermittent P0622 thing had become less intermittent and more regular over the last few months. At first it was every month or so after getting the fault cleared, and then it was every 2 weeks, and then it was once a week by the time I created this thread.

The whole gas shortage thing coincided with the end of my patience though - i knew something had to be done and had several days of non-driving ahead with which to try to deal with it. And from that was born my bright idea of just starting from scratch. I figured i would redo every electrical mod I'd ever done to make sure they weren't the underlying problem here. It was in the middle of this that I ran across the loose bolt that became the impetus for this thread, and thus led to its creation.

Now, as has been noted, I erred in my belief the loose bolt might be a problem, as it was not ultimately an issue once reattached. However, since removing the entirety of the electrical system in the trunk, including my mods, and cleaning everything before reassembly, i am happy to report I have had NO further charging faults since (~10 days).

But let me be clear: I DONT THINK I'VE RESOLVED MY PROBLEM!

Experience has shown me I will get another charging fault, that's just the nature of the beast. But the fact that I've managed to beat it back somewhat with my actions last week certainly mean something...what they mean, I don't rightly know, but they have to be significant somehow!

Of course, now that I've posted this, i have no doubt my next occurrence will likely happen tonight or tomorrow morning when i can least afford them to, but whatever...to be free of P0622's shackles, even if for a week, is worth the self-sabotage i have just committed. It's THAT pernicious and frustrating of a problem...


Anyway, hopefully @Gila Hemi will coke to my aid and reveal to me the secret to slaying this dragon, once and for all.
 

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I feel compelled to provide an update on my attempt to slay this nasty P0622 dragon, if for no other reason than sheer happiness at not having to deal with in the last 10 days or so.

Alright, so the recording, yet frustratingly intermittent P0622 thing had become less intermittent and more regular over the last few months. At first it was every month or so after getting the fault cleared, and then it was every 2 weeks, and then it was once a week by the time I created this thread.

The whole gas shortage thing coincided with the end of my patience though - i knew something had to be done and had several days of non-driving ahead with which to try to deal with it. And from that was born my bright idea of just starting from scratch. I figured i would redo every electrical mod I'd ever done to make sure they weren't the underlying problem here. It was in the middle of this that I ran across the loose bolt that became the impetus for this thread, and thus led to its creation.

Now, as has been noted, I erred in my belief the loose bolt might be a problem, as it was not ultimately an issue once reattached. However, since removing the entirety of the electrical system in the trunk, including my mods, and cleaning everything before reassembly, i am happy to report I have had NO further charging faults since (~10 days).

But let me be clear: I DONT THINK I'VE RESOLVED MY PROBLEM!

Experience has shown me I will get another charging fault, that's just the nature of the beast. But the fact that I've managed to beat it back somewhat with my actions last week certainly mean something...what they mean, I don't rightly know, but they have to be significant somehow!

Of course, now that I've posted this, i have no doubt my next occurrence will likely happen tonight or tomorrow morning when i can least afford them to, but whatever...to be free of P0622's shackles, even if for a week, is worth the self-sabotage i have just committed. It's THAT pernicious and frustrating of a problem...


Anyway, hopefully @Gila Hemi will coke to my aid and reveal to me the secret to slaying this dragon, once and for all.
I have bad news for you. My Shaker has been at the dealership for over a week now, and they tell me the problem with mine is indeed the recall on the alternator. Unless you have the recalled alternator in your Chally, the fix for mine won't work for you. They also told me that when the battery gets low, all kinds of nasty things start happening with the electronics, which explains a lot. They have been trying to expedite the upgraded alternator for me, but one hasn't yet arrived, but they did provide me with a loaner while they have my Shaker; a Grand Cherokee minivan... :huh:

BTW, I drank all of my Coke. :drink4:
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #16
I have bad news for you. My Shaker has been at the dealership for over a week now, and they tell me the problem with mine is indeed the recall on the alternator. Unless you have the recalled alternator in your Chally, the fix for mine won't work for you. They also told me that when the battery gets low, all kinds of nasty things start happening with the electronics, which explains a lot. They have been trying to expedite the upgraded alternator for me, but one hasn't yet arrived, but they did provide me with a loaner while they have my Shaker; a Grand Cherokee minivan... :huh:

BTW, I drank all of my Coke. :drink4:
So you originally got a bad alternator from the factory, then got another bad one as the new replacement for that factory-installed bad one, and now they're going to replace it with yet another new replacement? One which is ostensibly no different from the one currently on it, and thus could just as easily go bad (or be bad already) as well??

Something ain't stirring the Kool-Aid on this deal it seems like...It sounds to me like they are just trying this again in the hopes it will fix whatever is wrong because they don't know what else to try at this point...or because this is what the service manual is directing them to do, so they figure, 'why not try it again?' since their arses are covered either way...

I don't know, I mean I hope this latest alternator replacement will resolve the issue for your sake and all, but I am not filled with confidence based upon your description of the situation. :|

Keep us posted, please sir!
 

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So you originally got a bad alternator from the factory, then got another bad one as the new replacement for that factory-installed bad one, and now they're going to replace it with yet another new replacement? One which is ostensibly no different from the one currently on it, and thus could just as easily go bad (or be bad already) as well??

Something ain't stirring the Kool-Aid on this deal it seems like...It sounds to me like they are just trying this again in the hopes it will fix whatever is wrong because they don't know what else to try at this point...or because this is what the service manual is directing them to do, so they figure, 'why not try it again?' since their arses are covered either way...

I don't know, I mean I hope this latest alternator replacement will resolve the issue for your sake and all, but I am not filled with confidence based upon your description of the situation. :|

Keep us posted, please sir!
You misunderstood me. There are pre-recall alternators, and these are what the dealership used, twice, to resolve my P0622 issue to no avail. The first time I took it in for repair, the recall had not been announced. I found out about the recall from the mechanic who actually worked on it the second time I took it in, but the recall had still not be announced. Now they are attempting to expedite getting me a new replacement alternator that addresses the recall. I was told that there are only a very few of them available right now, and they have no idea as to how long it will take for one to arrive. I guess it means I've been put at the head of the list to receive the new alternator, but I've been waiting a week and a half so far for the repair.

How does one get to be so special that they're moved to the top of the repair list for a recall? In my case, I purchased a second Challenger for my wife the morning before the P0622 code was thrown. I was on my way to get her when it happened... :eek3:
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #18
You misunderstood me. There are pre-recall alternators, and these are what the dealership used, twice, to resolve my P0622 issue to no avail. The first time I took it in for repair, the recall had not been announced. I found out about the recall from the mechanic who actually worked on it the second time I took it in, but the recall had still not be announced. Now they are attempting to expedite getting me a new replacement alternator that addresses the recall. I was told that there are only a very few of them available right now, and they have no idea as to how long it will take for one to arrive. I guess it means I've been put at the head of the list to receive the new alternator, but I've been waiting a week and a half so far for the repair.

How does one get to be so special that they're moved to the top of the repair list for a recall? In my case, I purchased a second Challenger for my wife the morning before the P0622 code was thrown. I was on my way to get her when it happened... :eek3:
Alright, I guess that scenario probably has a higher likelihood of resulting in a positive outcome than I initially envisioned...though the whole "pre-recall" versus "post-recall" delineation of the hardware in question does remind me a little bit of the Pentastar-Bad-Cylinder-Head quagmire :eek3: :scared:

But that's neither here nor there, and I will stop it with the negative waves and such!!

Hopefully your Challenger gets fixed up right and proper and your wife's new Challenger never has any problems! And then y'all can both drive your new Challengers off into the sunset and just be happy ever after... :bigthumb:

Don't worry about your ole buddy Nuke though, I'll manage back here in antique-land with my ancient 2010 that they won't even recall, leaving me to hunt the P0622 beast with nothing but my own tools and wits as my weapons for battle. I'll find it someday, and I'll slay that monster!! I don't want any of that to weigh on you or your wife's minds, y'all need to enjoy y'alls running Challengers while their still new and...running!!

Just remember though, once they get old like mine, they too will be cast aside by John Dodge and his cronies, left to malfunction in obscurity with no hope of any assistance from the original maker, and with only their owners to keep them going. It's a rewarding relationship, this one I have with my old Challenger, rewarding indeed...lonely sometimes, but rewarding nonetheless!

Still though, there are some days...days when....well, nights really...nights when I've been out there in the garage working on the old girl, sweating and bleeding, sleeping and eating, all underneath or inside in the hopes of curing what ails her...and when no solution comes, it can make a person sad...oh so sad...

I am not ashamed to admit I might have shed a tear or two...there in the darkness...in the silence...just me and my old, broken car...she wishes she could hug me to make it all better, but she can't...she's just a car after all...a broken one at that...

:crying:
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #19
I made it 2 weeks of driving without any more P0622 episodes...until last night. It reared its ugly head again while I was still int he Kroger parking lot and about to head home.

Long story short, I've since cleared the fault by mostly doing the same things that worked int he past - cleaning grounds, ensuring no weak or improperly secured wires being used. And while I still do not have any concrete answers for my own car's problem, I will continue to search on my own for what is causing this trouble for me.
@Gila Hemi: any news on your Challenger's health following its time in the shop?

Also, just prior to any of the times you had the fault occur, did you ever notice any patterns of illogical electrical behavior in your car???

I could be going crazy from the stress and all, but 2 days before this last fault, my driver's side window auto-up/down just quit working correctly. I was able to re-calibrate it using the standard procedure available on this forum and many others. But still, why did that window's sensor or module or whatever just up and lose it's little mind like that, without any warning or otherwise good reason?

The in the 24 hours prior to the last fault, I started to notice my fog lights were not remembering their status at last shut-off, thereby requiring me to manually push the headlight switch again after startup to get them to come one. That's very strange, given that in the 2 years since I've had the car, that has never happened unless I unhooked the battery first (a situation where I would expect the lights' last status to be forgotten.

In hindsight, the combination of things I kept noticing should have been an indication of something more sinister, even if their individual occurrences were nothing of significance other being made a mental note of for later consideration.

Which leads me back to you @Gila Hemi: Have you noticed anything strange or otherwise noteworthy about the vehicles' behavior. before these last faults occurred and which were worked on by the service dept?
 

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I made it 2 weeks of driving without any more P0622 episodes...until last night. It reared its ugly head again while I was still int he Kroger parking lot and about to head home.

Long story short, I've since cleared the fault by mostly doing the same things that worked int he past - cleaning grounds, ensuring no weak or improperly secured wires being used. And while I still do not have any concrete answers for my own car's problem, I will continue to search on my own for what is causing this trouble for me.

@Gila Hemi: any news on your Challenger's health following its time in the shop?

Also, just prior to any of the times you had the fault occur, did you ever notice any patterns of illogical electrical behavior in your car???

I could be going crazy from the stress and all, but 2 days before this last fault, my driver's side window auto-up/down just quit working correctly. I was able to re-calibrate it using the standard procedure available on this forum and many others. But still, why did that window's sensor or module or whatever just up and lose it's little mind like that, without any warning or otherwise good reason?

The in the 24 hours prior to the last fault, I started to notice my fog lights were not remembering their status at last shut-off, thereby requiring me to manually push the headlight switch again after startup to get them to come one. That's very strange, given that in the 2 years since I've had the car, that has never happened unless I unhooked the battery first (a situation where I would expect the lights' last status to be forgotten.

In hindsight, the combination of things I kept noticing should have been an indication of something more sinister, even if their individual occurrences were nothing of significance other being made a mental note of for later consideration.

Which leads me back to you @Gila Hemi: Have you noticed anything strange or otherwise noteworthy about the vehicles' behavior. before these last faults occurred and which were worked on by the service dept?
My Shaker is still at the dealership waiting for the new, improved alternator. That's been about two and a half weeks now. I recommend that you go on Dodge's web site to the recall page and enter your VIN to see if your ride is part of the recall. That won't cost you anything.

Now, the part about weird stuff happening. That didn't happen to me until the last time I took it in. They couldn't find anything wrong, and told me to drive it some more. As I was leaving, I noticed that my AC was not working, and wouldn't come on. Also, my radio no longer worked. This all happened while I was out on the street waiting to make a u-turn to return to the dealer. I also had a bunch of warning lights come on besides the battery light. Once I was back at the service department, I found at that I was unable to turn the engine off, and my Shaker has been there ever since. I'm sure there was more stuff not working, but I was not going to sit there and test everything on my own any more. I don't even remember if I tried to roll the window down.
 
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