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I've heard from many sources that just swapping the OEM rear tension bars with the Razors Edge ones can eliminate wheel hop. Sounds like a good deal for $350. Has anyone JUST installed these on a stock or STP suspension equipped 6 speed and can safely say it eliminated your wheel hop? Also does it change the handling or ride characteristics at all? My car is a daily driver so I just want them for a stronger bar that will get rid of the hop.

Would be nice to get this instead of also having to buy new UCA and LCAs.


Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bump... is there *anyone* with a 6 speed who has JUST the Razors Edge tension bars that can comment? I'm most likely going to buy them at some point and if it fixes my hop, GREAT. If not I will think about changing the LCAs.
 

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Sorry to say...it's not just a "one mod fix". You can work backwards from the tension arms, and see what you get. They are a definite integral COMPONENT for the resolution of the problem, and an easy install.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry to say...it's not just a "one mod fix". You can work backwards from the tension arms, and see what you get. They are a definite integral COMPONENT for the resolution of the problem, and an easy install.
Yeah you're probably right. I figure that I would eventually need the tension arms anyway, so I plan on getting those since they are a lot cheaper than the LCAs and see what kind of results I can get. Of course I can't get them now, I'll have to hope for "birthday money" haha. Wife isn't happy how much I've spent on this car so far. It's almost perfect except the damn wheel hop, I hate it! If that were gone this would be the perfect muscle car IMO.
 
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I have plans to do this - but the first priority is getting a permanent job first.

I've been on the temp / contract merry-go-round for the past two years (and it sucks)...times when there's no work.

It is one of the items on my "wish list", but only after the job situation is sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have plans to do this - but the first priority is getting a permanent job first.

I've been on the temp / contract merry-go-round for the past two years (and it sucks)...times when there's no work.

It is one of the items on my "wish list", but only after the job situation is sorted out.
I understand what you're saying. Definitely gotta get priories in order before shelling out the cash to fix this problem. In my experience Dodge should of known that most people who own a Hemi Challenger 6 speed WILL launch this car hard and that taking the time/money to install beefier components would solve the wheel hop. I mean, if they are willing to make a SUPER Track Pack package, they obviously know that people will push the limits of their car. These are performances cars, not Priuses.

Please let us know when you get the tension arms installed and tell us what you think. If I happen to get them on before you I will post my results. :bigthumb:
 

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I have done the tension arms and the stage two hop not kit. Hop not kit really seemed to help. Tension arms not so much in my opinion. I was hoping that it would eliminate it completely, but did not.
 

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As 3 peddles mention, "it's not just a one mod fix." I also added rear differential mount bushings. from energy suspension (5.1115 ) This was a noticeable improvement. High Horse Performance sells solid aluminum ones, but I'm not sure if good for street..
 

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See if you can find a spring issue of Mopar Now, they have a really good tech article on Razor Edge components and eliminating wheel hop. They gained a few tenths at the strip once completed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
See if you can find a spring issue of Mopar Now, they have a really good tech article on Razor Edge components and eliminating wheel hop. They gained a few tenths at the strip once completed.
I just picked up this magazine this week. I haven't had a chance to sit down and read the article but from I gather changing the tension arms and lower control arms should "eradicate" the wheel hop. I would rather go this route than tear into my bushings with the Hop Not kit. Plus there have been many who have used Hop Not and didn't get their wheel hop gone.
 

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i personally think changing the rear cradle bushings will help ALOT and it will also help with the really bad side to side play that i have seen in youtube video's.. but it is alot of work and a pain in the a$$ to do.
 

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Has anyone tried this Spohn kit? It's the same as the Razors Edge setup but a lot cheaper. This may be a good, cheaper option to fix the wheel hop.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/Chrysler-...ler-300C-Dodge-Charger-Challenger-Magnum.html
Those look similar in construction to the OEM parts (tubular steel), with the exception of the bushings (urethane?) and the option of having adjustable versions and the power coating.

The '11+ cars replaced a lot of the cast steel parts with cast aluminum - you can readily identify this by the bright finish on the OEM parts when you take a look at the '11-'14 cars.

The Razors Edge are machined billet aluminum stock...a more costly material and likely more rigid than tubular steel.

These images are what the '08 -'10 rear suspension has:
 

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Those look similar in construction to the OEM parts (tubular steel), with the exception of the bushings (urethane?) and the option of having adjustable versions and the power coating.

The '11+ cars replaced a lot of the cast steel parts with cast aluminum - you can readily identify this by the bright finish on the OEM parts when you take a look at the '11-'14 cars.

The Razors Edge are machined billet aluminum stock...a more costly material and likely more rigid than tubular steel.

These images are what the '08 -'10 rear suspension has:

I've heard nothing but great things about Spohn products, from the Camaro community at least. No doubt the Razor's Edge stuff is stiffer and more rigid but is it worth the extra dough? I sure wish someone on the site has tried the Spohn kit and can tell us definitavely if it reduces/elminates wheel hop or not. I'd had to shell out $450 and not have any results, if I then find out spending over $1,000 for Razors Edge would do the trick.
 

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while we're on this subject, have the suspension parts changed between the 2010 and 2011 challengers? I called energysuspension and they didn't know the answer, I'd like to change the bushings in the rear before I do anything, like replacing control arms. but even that looks like big bucks and of them promise a "cure"
 

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I just got off the phone with the folks at Spohn Performance, very nice people. They told me that their kit WILL eliminate wheel hop. The kit of course includes the tension arms as well as the upper and lower control arms. He said they got their name through the Camaros but that they've had some very happy Challenger owners use their kit and have it work.

There is no guarantee however, so once I got them installed that would be it. Worst case scenario it doesn't get rid of the wheel hop but it greatly improves performance from the rear suspension and give me a slightly stiffer ride.

Once I get the funds I believe I am going to go for this kit. I talked with a tech a High Horse Powerforce and they said that the Spohn stuff is quality and that they would take it over the Razor's Edge. He did mention the Hop Not Kit, but I am trying to stay away from that. I would rather place the parts then cut into my bushings.

Going to do more research before I can use the money towards it, but it definitely looks like I will be going with the Spohn rear suspension system. :thumbsup:
 

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while we're on this subject, have the suspension parts changed between the 2010 and 2011 challengers? I called energysuspension and they didn't know the answer, I'd like to change the bushings in the rear before I do anything, like replacing control arms. but even that looks like big bucks and of them promise a "cure"
The cast steel parts were replaced with aluminum (lower unsprung weight in suspension) and bushing rates are stiffer.

The pickup points on the front suspension are different, so you can't interchange the '11+ front suspension as the mounting positions are different. [there's also more negative camber in both front & rear suspensions, caster angle in front, as well as faster steering rack ratios]

The front upper control arms were also aluminum castings (see the picture of the '13 SRT I've attached. The bright metal part above the tire is the aluminum upper control arm.
 

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