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2021 Challenger R/T Scat Pack A8
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I had a mortgage with PNC once. They calculated interest on a daily basis instead of monthly so they could compound it. Only bank I've ever seen do that. Crooks.
I refinanced with a better bank and just paid those clowns off. Their greed actually cost them allot in lost interest.
Yes, that can be confusing. Every mortgage has a schedule for the calculation of interest on a daily basis.

"Calculating daily interest is similar to figuring out monthly or weekly interest. The only difference is that the rate is divided by the number of days instead of the number of months. When your mortgage is calculated daily, instead of monthly, you pay a slightly different amount of interest on your monthly statements because the number of days in each month varies. If you make a principal payment in the middle of the month, it'll immediately change the dollar amount of your interest payment for the rest of the month."

I believe, by law, a bank can't charge more than the mortgage annual interest rate contained in the contract. The new bank you went to does it exactly the same way. They all calculate daily interest accumulation. That's how they calculate the mortgage "payoff" amount for selling or buying or refinancing.

PNC are the same as all bankers. And, yes, they are all crooks.

Congrats on your order- hopefully it comes in soon.

Here is my .02....

Focus on suspension and handling first. The Scat Pack has a really nice set up to begin with so don't expect huge gains from making changes. You may want to consider front and rear shock towers (Petty and SpeedLogix seem to be popular), front sway bar (the rear is pretty stout IMHO to begin with) and many like Eibach. Put wider tires on the car. 275 minimum (Continental DSW are most in use) and some have gone to 305 but may require different wheels. Lowering spring I have no experience with and the Bilstein shock (being new) will do the trick for a while. Your factory Brembo's are great brakes but you may want to consider switching to PowerStop brake pads.

Engine power. Although this is hard to except, your engine already has enough power to move you around the track at damn near optimum levels- hence the focus on suspension. The 392 is really designed well and there a couple of things that you may want to consider. Add the Cold Air Intake (Use MOPAR as it is easier behind the inboard headlight direct feed to the air box or an open air box if you wish. If you want a larger throttle body (much debate on this one) many have experience low end torque gains and quicker throttle response- with MMX or FastMan.. The exhaust is really good from the factory and many have done a mid muffler delete. You really wont see much on the way of power but you car will sound better (or at least different). Any competent shop will be able to do that for less than 100.

So, I've made my recommendations for a track/daily driver.... let the debate begin!
Yes, if I were you it would all be in stiffening the ride. Did you get the adaptive suspension?
Front and rear braces would be a good start.
Pics when your ride arrives!
I've gone back an read some early advice that captures the heart of my plan. These two posts were early and spot on. There are a few others with great into on alignment specs that I'll reference shortly. I'm going to invest mainly in handling, weight reduction (some...not much) and, eventually, super lite wheels and really good tires. I'm saving those for later though they will likely have the biggest impact.

I plan to do the first events in October, November and December and do all of them in near stock form to establish a baseline. I have the 275x20's with the all season tires. I'll outline my first mods soon. I've changed my mind on a few I've discussed before.

I'll soon outline some thoughts on how I plan to measure results in some meaningful way.
 

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I am running the stock 20" wheels with 265-40 Bridgestone S007A, 240 wear tires. I only drive the car 3k -4k miles per year ( Midwest Winters, other cars and cycles) so I am leaving the alignment the same for street and AutoX. There is no problem street driving with these settings, the car drives great. I prefer cars with live steering feel. My car came used @30k miles with 1/8" of toe- in in front end. I have a Longacre toe guage so I can experiment, and not spend all my $$ at a alignment shop. First test was straight up, which improved the turn in. Second test was 1/16" out, which is good for me, with good front end feel, good stability, none of the solid dead feel it had with 1/8" in..
I'm following this thread very closely.

Although I am not specifically looking for auto x or race specs, I am desperately seeking knowledge on how to improve the steering fee/liven up the responses of the Challenger.

I'm basically looking for a great spirited back road/mountain/twisty road alignment/suspension set up.
I am pleased to hear that you are running race alignment on the street, without premature/ detrimental tire wear.

I have a few questions.

#1...Are the adjustable A-arms and adjustable rear camber link needed to get to those alignment specs?
I'm guessing they are, but would like to know for sure.

#2...How much adjustment is there in a completely stock SP suspension?

#3...As for alignments, what is the best that a completely stock SP can attain?

I very much prefer a car with lively steering feel. To the point that I would trade off some highspeed stability to gain more feedback and faster response/turn in.
As long as the car is not darty or nervous up to say a 100 mph, I'm a happy camper.

I am MUCH more interested in how a car drives UNDER 100 mph. Especially in the 30 - 90 mph zone.
Anything that can be done to gain some much needed steering feel/feedback would be a huge benefit.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge/experiences.
 

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Yes, that can be confusing. Every mortgage has a schedule for the calculation of interest on a daily basis.

"Calculating daily interest is similar to figuring out monthly or weekly interest. The only difference is that the rate is divided by the number of days instead of the number of months. When your mortgage is calculated daily, instead of monthly, you pay a slightly different amount of interest on your monthly statements because the number of days in each month varies. If you make a principal payment in the middle of the month, it'll immediately change the dollar amount of your interest payment for the rest of the month."

I believe, by law, a bank can't charge more than the mortgage annual interest rate contained in the contract. The new bank you went to does it exactly the same way. They all calculate daily interest accumulation. That's how they calculate the mortgage "payoff" amount for selling or buying or refinancing.

PNC are the same as all bankers. And, yes, they are all crooks.
I am obviously not explaining this correctly but when I calculated my monthly interest I was clearly paying more. When I called them on it they admitted to calculating it in a way that was to their benefit and that it was different than some lenders. They then informed me that it was perfectly legal. They made no attempt to deny it.
 

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I'm following this thread very closely.

Although I am not specifically looking for auto x or race specs, I am desperately seeking knowledge on how to improve the steering fee/liven up the responses of the Challenger.

I'm basically looking for a great spirited back road/mountain/twisty road alignment/suspension set up.
I am pleased to hear that you are running race alignment on the street, without premature/ detrimental tire wear.

I have a few questions.

#1...Are the adjustable A-arms and adjustable rear camber link needed to get to those alignment specs?
I'm guessing they are, but would like to know for sure.

#2...How much adjustment is there in a completely stock SP suspension?

#3...As for alignments, what is the best that a completely stock SP can attain?

I very much prefer a car with lively steering feel. To the point that I would trade off some highspeed stability to gain more feedback and faster response/turn in.
As long as the car is not darty or nervous up to say a 100 mph, I'm a happy camper.

I am MUCH more interested in how a car drives UNDER 100 mph. Especially in the 30 - 90 mph zone.
Anything that can be done to gain some much needed steering feel/feedback would be a huge benefit.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge/experiences.
#1: I installed Eibach Sportline springs which lowered the car enough that adjustable a-arms were reccomeded. I have a 2015 R/T+, with Bilstein shocks. I think Eibach claims a 1.2" or so drop, I didn't get that much, more like .75". If you have the time, I think you could install springs,check camber, maybe you wouldn't absolutely have to buy a- arms. However the benifit of increasing castor is as important as negative camber, so the adjustable arms are well worth the expense. Caster will allow the front end to "pick up" negative camber as you turn the wheel for a corner. My car at 20 degree turn angle has - 5.0 degrees camber. Straight up is -2.5 degrees, so you can run reasonable straight ahead camber ( for good tire wear, and braking) yet have lots of negative camber while turning. I put the rear camber links on while I had the subframe dropped, so I wouldn't have to do it twice. It took 3 or 4 mock-ups to get the camber correct, I can't imagine pressing out the offset bushings to change the settings that many times, so the adjustable arms worked for me. Maybe you can measure and calculate where to index the offset bushings to get it right the first time, but my experience had the settings not as expected when the car was back together on the ground.
#2 My R/T has no camber or caster adjustment on the front. Only toe. On the rear camber and caster are fixed, toe is adjustable with eccentric bolts I believe. Fortunately mine was stock at 0 toe, and didn't change after all the mods,so I didn't have to adjust it.
#3 Toe is all you can really mess with on the stock suspension. Mine came with 1/8" in (at the tread), and drove ok, I thought. After springs and sway bars, I drove it still set at 1/8" in, and it felt a little heavy in a straight line, and bit reluctant to turn into ramps at highway speed. Setting to straight 0 toe made a positive difference in lightening up the steering, which made it change direction better ,and turn into hwy ramps better. Going in 1/16" or 1/8" increments won't make the car terribly different or dangerously unstable, so I tried 1/8" out. That was too far ,as the car required constant correction to drive down a straight highway( not scary,just too busy). I set it to 1/16" out, and it felt great, and that's where I've left it. As you adjust the toe ,you will get a feel for how much you have to turn tie rod to get a toe change. Then you can change it, drive it through the same test loop of roads every change, to see how it works. I measure toe every couple changes to make sure it's at what I thought it was. I think on mine a 1/8 turn on the tie rod was a 1/16" toe change: but yours will be different depending on tire size. I put a paint spot on the tie rod, so I didn't lose my spot. You could even put a different colored spot for " race" or " street" setting, but mine drives so good at 1/16" out , I leave it there for both.
Kind of a long winded response. If you have any questions I'll gladly try and help explain further.
Tom
 

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2021 Challenger R/T Scat Pack A8
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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
#1: I installed Eibach Sportline springs which lowered the car enough that adjustable a-arms were reccomeded. I have a 2015 R/T+, with Bilstein shocks. I think Eibach claims a 1.2" or so drop, I didn't get that much, more like .75". If you have the time, I think you could install springs,check camber, maybe you wouldn't absolutely have to buy a- arms. However the benifit of increasing castor is as important as negative camber, so the adjustable arms are well worth the expense. Caster will allow the front end to "pick up" negative camber as you turn the wheel for a corner. My car at 20 degree turn angle has - 5.0 degrees camber. Straight up is -2.5 degrees, so you can run reasonable straight ahead camber ( for good tire wear, and braking) yet have lots of negative camber while turning. I put the rear camber links on while I had the subframe dropped, so I wouldn't have to do it twice. It took 3 or 4 mock-ups to get the camber correct, I can't imagine pressing out the offset bushings to change the settings that many times, so the adjustable arms worked for me. Maybe you can measure and calculate where to index the offset bushings to get it right the first time, but my experience had the settings not as expected when the car was back together on the ground.
#2 My R/T has no camber or caster adjustment on the front. Only toe. On the rear camber and caster are fixed, toe is adjustable with eccentric bolts I believe. Fortunately mine was stock at 0 toe, and didn't change after all the mods,so I didn't have to adjust it.
#3 Toe is all you can really mess with on the stock suspension. Mine came with 1/8" in (at the tread), and drove ok, I thought. After springs and sway bars, I drove it still set at 1/8" in, and it felt a little heavy in a straight line, and bit reluctant to turn into ramps at highway speed. Setting to straight 0 toe made a positive difference in lightening up the steering, which made it change direction better ,and turn into hwy ramps better. Going in 1/16" or 1/8" increments won't make the car terribly different or dangerously unstable, so I tried 1/8" out. That was too far ,as the car required constant correction to drive down a straight highway( not scary,just too busy). I set it to 1/16" out, and it felt great, and that's where I've left it. As you adjust the toe ,you will get a feel for how much you have to turn tie rod to get a toe change. Then you can change it, drive it through the same test loop of roads every change, to see how it works. I measure toe every couple changes to make sure it's at what I thought it was. I think on mine a 1/8 turn on the tie rod was a 1/16" toe change: but yours will be different depending on tire size. I put a paint spot on the tie rod, so I didn't lose my spot. You could even put a different colored spot for " race" or " street" setting, but mine drives so good at 1/16" out , I leave it there for both.
Kind of a long winded response. If you have any questions I'll gladly try and help explain further.
Tom
Again, great info!!! Just what I'm trying to work through. My overall plan for mods can be summarized by 1. Handling -- Suspension, sway bars, etc. 2. A little bit of fun improvements to power...maybe the Hellcat CAI bottom and air tube...maybe a Fastman TB...likely nothing else till much later. 3. Very few cosmetic upgrades other than pdf front and ceramic coating overall and some Lux Auto light stuff.

To that end the first two mod packages I'm considering is the:
1. Eibach Pro handling kit which includes the mildest lowering springs and the anti-sway bars. I have the adaptive dampening and have not yet resolved the questions around that for lowering springs.
2. The AAD all aluminum Control Arm kits (likely the blood red version...just for the hell of it). Some of the draw here goes beyond the practical. As an engineer...they are simply beautiful imo.
3. Mopar Strut bars front and rear (again, kind of just for the hell of it...though my experience with my MINI was the control arms helped measurably with turn in).

The first two are pretty pricey but I'm not concerned too much with cost...those are within my budget. Would not the combo result in a pretty flexible set up? I will seek to find an optimal set up for both street and autocross and then likely adjust accordingly for my few planned track days and maybe a couple of drag runs in a couple of years.

Your experience with Toe is great info and hard to find! That was a major factor on my MINI setup for both handling and minimal tire wear for daily driving even with a heavy negative camber setting.

You volunteered more info if anyone is interested. I would love to see ALL your thoughts on the subject!

Thank you so much for taking the time here. I'm hoping this thread will inspire a few others to hit some local autoX events in the next few years and, as a result, move some more interest into handling vs just the straight up power game, which, admittedly, is quite seductive. I'm so impressed with the handling of the stock package, for a 4200 lb beast it is quite capable. I believe with some work here it could blow a few minds.

I am obviously not explaining this correctly but when I calculated my monthly interest I was clearly paying more. When I called them on it they admitted to calculating it in a way that was to their benefit and that it was different than some lenders. They then informed me that it was perfectly legal. They made no attempt to deny it.
Ah. Yes, that is borderline criminal and worthy of a move.

To support the above plan I am also gearing up my new garage. It is on the small side...19'6" length and 22'6" wide.

I'm planning a SwissTrax floor and looking at the Quick Jack product line. Would love input.
 

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There’s no reason you can’t do well with the Challenger I just hope you’re rich.
There’s a reason people autocross small light cars like the Mini Cooper and Miata and it’s not just handling.

The Challenger or any other heavy car will eat a $1500 set of tires in a weekend.
I can vouch for that

I'm sure I have posted extensively regarding track dedicated mods before

I would not worry or do anything for additional power anytime soon

what I would recommend to a new Challenger owner who wants to autox

1- front and rear strut braces(and they are not all the same)

2- welded or bolt on subframe connectors

3-dedicated set of tires and wheels, way more choice in 18's and 19's then 20 inch wheels(18's inch wheels will be an issue with dynamic brake package) most sanctioning bodies will require 200 treadwear tires, by far the best tires on the market are the Falken RT660, BFG Rivals 1.5 S and Bridgestones RE71R

4-suspension mods shall begin, depending on budget and whether the car has active suspension, would begin by lowering the car, lately we have been using Eibach Pro a lot, since the Mopar stage one(which are my favorites) but wont lower the car much

5-the tricky one, alignment dedicated for track or autox use, tricky since what you should use for autox or track use will wear tires very quickly on a daily driver and changing the alignment back and forth is not desirable or easily done

on Bigred we run 2.7 degrees of camber in front

1027494


from this point on, would recommend safety gear and equipment

once that is addressed

the sky is the limit and significant suspensions modification should begin

as you can see, have yet to discuss any engine or transmission enhancement, no reason to until you can significantly drive the car beyond its limits

the modern Challenger even in a 5.7 configuration has sufficient power for nearly any autox competition
 

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2021 Challenger R/T Scat Pack A8
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I can vouch for that
So, I'm very interested in the nature of the tire wear you guys experienced. I know that with my MINI the tire wear was minimized by an aggressive negative camber on front and a little less in the rear (front wheel drive) AND a slight toe in that was less than spec...almost zero. At spec for toe-in the tire wear was considerably more. Knowing that the weight of the car is a huge factor the wear can be mitigated to some degree with a sweet spot alignment. I know running stock will likely result in a lot of tire wear on the outside edges especially in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I can vouch for that

I'm sure I have posted extensively regarding track dedicated mods before

I would not worry or do anything for additional power anytime soon

what I would recommend to a new Challenger owner who wants to autox

1- front and rear strut braces(and they are not all the same)

2- welded or bolt on subframe connectors

3-dedicated set of tires and wheels, way more choice in 18's and 19's then 20 inch wheels(18's inch wheels will be an issue with dynamic brake package) most sanctioning bodies will require 200 treadwear tires, by far the best tires on the market are the Falken RT660, BFG Rivals 1.5 S and Bridgestones RE71R

4-suspension mods shall begin, depending on budget and whether the car has active suspension, would begin by lowering the car, lately we have been using Eibach Pro a lot, since the Mopar stage one(which are my favorites) but wont lower the car much

5-the tricky one, alignment dedicated for track or autox use, tricky since what you should use for autox or track use will wear tires very quickly on a daily driver and changing the alignment back and forth is not desirable or easily done

on Bigred we run 2.7 degrees of camber in front

View attachment 1027494

from this point on, would recommend safety gear and equipment

once that is addressed

the sky is the limit and significant suspensions modification should begin

as you can see, have yet to discuss any engine or transmission enhancement, no reason to until you can significantly drive the car beyond its limits

the modern Challenger even in a 5.7 configuration has sufficient power for nearly any autox competition
First, BIG RED looks AWESOME!! That 2.7* neg camber stands out. That is the spec I ran in the front of my MINI and 1.9* in the rear.

At first the tire wear was significant. But, an autox'er told me that if I were to go closer to zero on the Toe it would likely reduce the wear on the inside significantly. It did. He also said handling would likely be more lively. It was. I think I ended at about 1/32 toe-in and ran those specs for DD and autox.

The MINI was heavy for its size and I ran 200 tw tires, of course. I will look forward to seeing what happens with a 4200 lb car and 200 tw tires...I'm sure they won't last long. But, neither did those on my MINI. In those days competitive summer tires got too hard in a much shorter time than the tire wear factor. The big difference will be the price of the 20" vs the 17" ones I ran then.

Speaking of wheel size, I have the dynamics brakes. I assumed 19" were likely not an option with those big brembo's. I haven't researched that thoroughly yet but have you seen folks make that work?

I've been on the fence starting with strut braces and sub frame connectors. Thanks. I think I will start there and run a few events with just that first and gather a little data.

Then I'll go with the sway bars and lowering springs. BUT!! I have the automatic dampening system. Do you think that will be problematic with the lowering springs??

Thanks for validating the Eibach Pro set up (with sway bars)...that's my current plan. Will likely do that next spring.

What is your advice here...I'm trying to decide on doing the PRO set up first or the AAD Control Arm set up first or do the two of them together. Again, my intent is to break out my mods and gather a little data, mostly anecdotal, I'm sure, but still helpful, I hope. I'm not a data freak but I'd like some measurement of effectiveness. I've worked out a crude "success measurement" system that I haven't outlined yet but will will in October when I do my first autox event.
 

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without the AAD control arms you will not be able to adjust the alignment correctly, the Eibach pro work very well with the dynamic package and depending on what you currently have, would leave sway bars alone, I tend to prefer the Mopar front and rear strut braces, especially the rear since the cross bar can be easily removed when travelling for additional trunk space





promo code CHA1

greater choice of tires in the 18 inch wheels, however will not fit over the 6 pistons Brembos, many more choices now being added to the 19 inch wheels

currently I'm running 305/30r19's fronts and 315/30r19 rears

with dynamic package there is a good chance you have 34mm front bar
 

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2021 Challenger R/T Scat Pack A8
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Thanks!!! Very helpful!!

STRUT BARS: I've been leaning toward the Mopar Strut Bars front and rear. This will be my first handling upgrade. I will install both at once. They had a marked effect on my MINI for turn-in. Decided.

SUB FRAME CROSS BRACE: I've been on the fence about the sub frame cross brace. I almost did that to the MINI but didn't because it would take me into another class. But, it is allowed in the CAM-C class. Now I'm off the fence. I will install this mod one or two runs after the strut bars and provide some observations of effects for a couple of runs before I take the next step. Decided.

AAD CONTROL ARMS: Then I'll do the AAD Control Arm set up and run that for several events and use that to align the stock set up and see what happens. Decided.

EIBACH PRO: Then I'll do the Eibach Pro spring kit. I'm still a little confused here. You say the springs work fine with the Dynamic suspension. By that do you mean the dynamic dampers? That's my concern that I have not researched yet. I just want to make sure the automatic dampening system is compatible with the Pro spring kit. Undecided.

SWAY BARS: On the fence...will think more about it and research the ones that come with the dynamic suspension before I do anything here. I would like to not have to drop the back end if I don't have too. Undecided.

WHEELS and TIRES: I don't have the wide body and I haven't really researched and searched for wheels yet. But, I think I'm limited to 275's front and 305's rear. Still haven't decided if I'll run square or not long term. I will for the first 8 months or so. I have the 275 street tires set up right now and will run those for the first 8 or 10 events to establish a baseline. It will be interesting to see how much improvement I'll get with the incremental mod plan above. I'd really like to find very lite 19" wheels that will fit...19x9.5's front (or square) and 19x10.5's rear. The weird bolt pattern seems to be limiting on choice. Even considering doing something crazy, someday, like Volks or an equivalent. Undecided.

View attachment 1027602
Here's a photo of my R/T with a Petty front strut bar. For a few $ extra, you can get it in colors. Very good Sublime match.
Wow...that looks great!

Since I have the Triple Nickel paint the silver Mopar strut bar should look good.

I love the "345 Hemi" covers. I wish they had put the 392 HEMI version on mine...but they have the "Powered by SRT" which is OK but not as cool imo.

with dynamic package there is a good chance you have 34mm front bar
I wonder if the stock 34mm bar is that much heavier than the Eibach which is hollow. Probably not that much, I guess. I will eventually go on a bit of a weight savings effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
I installed the AAD Catch Can. It was a hassle finding the connectors for the pipe. They have a separator section which is not what I wanted so will tray to track down some other ones. I had to do some filing on the removable can to get it to work easily. But, I like the set up.
1027691


Here's a photo of the carbon fiber used in the interior...it is a matt carbon fiber which I wasn't sure about at first but now I really like it. Someone said the carbon interior is very nice. I agree.
1027692
1027707
 

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Clean looking installation on the catch can. The amount of oil in the can seems to vary, so I just empty mine before trips, or Auto-x. You don't want that oil sloshing around, and getting pulled into the motor. A co-worker let his WRX catch tank overfill,and it was smoking so bad he thought he broke some rings.
That carbon trim is very good looking, is the piece around the shifter carbon too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Clean looking installation on the catch can. The amount of oil in the can seems to vary, so I just empty mine before trips, or Auto-x. You don't want that oil sloshing around, and getting pulled into the motor. A co-worker let his WRX catch tank overfill,and it was smoking so bad he thought he broke some rings.
That carbon trim is very good looking, is the piece around the shifter carbon too?
Yes, the top of the console around the shifter is the same carbon fiber...it just didn't focus as well. I really like it too...better than I was expecting. I had the carbon interior in my 2018 Audi S5 Sportback which was my last car before this one. It had the glossy finish and looked awesome but I like this better.

The AAD Catch Can install was definitely not a plug and play affair. I found that a little aggravating given the price but in the end it seems solid. It is designed to be flexible in set up for many different configurations, I guess. I particularly like the bracket the provide. Here's a better closeup. You can change the angle between the upper and lower connections as well as switch the upper and lower positions of the connectors. A very flexible system. But they say they don't include the tubing or connectors because the buyer can get them cheaper locally. That is true. But, it is a hassle finding the connectors...I still don't have the ones I want.

Hadn't thought about the idea of emptying the catch can before an autox gig...of course, that's a great idea...thanks.

1027708
 

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Be careful with that console trim. I checked and it's almost $1000 for that piece! Mine ( plain plastic,not carbon) is scratched from previous owner. I guess hydro- dipping may be good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Took a drive today. Staying within the advised "break-in" protocol. I love this car!!

I love the Harmon Kardin system but the subwoofer is pretty overpowering. I found the equalizer but is there a separate adjustment for the subwoofer. I can't find a reference for it so I guess not.
 

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20210726_172141.jpg
20210726_172119.jpg

The first picture is a Rear tire, second a Front. 3rd AutoX on a 90° day. Each run was 55 sec or so, with 20 cars in my run group , I ran 4 runs about 7 min apar (3 cars at a time). Needless to say the Bridgestone S007A in 265/40 r20 overheated a bit. I saw other competitors spraying their tires with water between runs to cool them down- I hadn't thought of that- I'll get something for next month's event. I somehow forgot to take the IR thermometer, but, I did get some other nfo though. Cold tire pressures were 34 front, 32 Rear. After runs they heated to 38f, 34r. Rear tire wear looked good across the tread. Fronts were fairly even across, except for smearing/ chunking on edge (which didn't appear until run #7) on the right front. I looked at the "Performance Pages" g- force recorder and saw peaks of :
Right turn 1.04g
Left turn 1.08g
Accel .68g
Brake .75g
I wouldn't trust this data from the OEM g- force Guage as true numbers, but they should help to decide if a change to the car helped or not, in addition to how the car feels. It's only my 4th event with this car, so my driving is settling down, and becoming more consistent. 30 years of front wheel drive AutoX and road racing takes a while to unlearn. I have found out so far ,that the R/T is much more fun to drive than previous cars. Those cars you could typically run wide open throttle between corners, trail brake into the corner to help the car turn. The Dodge requires a bit more thought on throttle application, or you can get wheelspin, and at corner entrance it doesn't understeer so heavy you have to left foot brake, or brake down into the turn to get the rear end out. The last course was set up by a Corvette driver, so it was open enough to actually pick lines, instead of just navigating the course trying not to hit cones.
 

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2021 Challenger R/T Scat Pack A8
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
View attachment 1027796 View attachment 1027798
The first picture is a Rear tire, second a Front. 3rd AutoX on a 90° day. Each run was 55 sec or so, with 20 cars in my run group , I ran 4 runs about 7 min apar (3 cars at a time). Needless to say the Bridgestone S007A in 265/40 r20 overheated a bit. I saw other competitors spraying their tires with water between runs to cool them down- I hadn't thought of that- I'll get something for next month's event. I somehow forgot to take the IR thermometer, but, I did get some other nfo though. Cold tire pressures were 34 front, 32 Rear. After runs they heated to 38f, 34r. Rear tire wear looked good across the tread. Fronts were fairly even across, except for smearing/ chunking on edge (which didn't appear until run #7) on the right front. I looked at the "Performance Pages" g- force recorder and saw peaks of :
Right turn 1.04g
Left turn 1.08g
Accel .68g
Brake .75g
I wouldn't trust this data from the OEM g- force Guage as true numbers, but they should help to decide if a change to the car helped or not, in addition to how the car feels. It's only my 4th event with this car, so my driving is settling down, and becoming more consistent. 30 years of front wheel drive AutoX and road racing takes a while to unlearn. I have found out so far ,that the R/T is much more fun to drive than previous cars. Those cars you could typically run wide open throttle between corners, trail brake into the corner to help the car turn. The Dodge requires a bit more thought on throttle application, or you can get wheelspin, and at corner entrance it doesn't understeer so heavy you have to left foot brake, or brake down into the turn to get the rear end out. The last course was set up by a Corvette driver, so it was open enough to actually pick lines, instead of just navigating the course trying not to hit cones.
Thanks for the post! Here's a couple of thoughts.

The significant outside tire wear probably comes mostly from significant roll on those turns, of course. That's where significant negative camber can help a lot. Big Red in the post above runs 2.7* in front which sounds about right to me. I'll likely see the same thing you do until I get the AAD Adjustable Control Arm set up in place and dial in the right alignment. Then it will likely reduce further with lowering springs and an anti-sway bar upgrade, though the stock sway bar on the dynamic package may be pretty stout. We'll see.

Yes, definitely get a water sprayer and use it after each run on hot days. Also, you might benefit from a lot more air pressure. I used to run 34 psi on the street with my MINI but upped it to around 40 to 42 for autocross. That will reduce the edge wear as well and help with keeping the sidewalls stiffer and keeping the contact patch maximized.

I'm in the same boat...four years of front wheel drive autox with a relatively high power/weight ratio. Now I'll be doing rear wheel drive in a heavy car but still a high power/weight ratio....a whole new thang! Great fun!!

You raise a good point about the accuracy of the performance readings. I wonder if anyone out there has checked the accuracy?

Sounds like you had a great day!!
 
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