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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I posted the first "I'll Take One" in Barton's announcement, so they were kind enough to send me one from the first batch.

I installed it last night, and, gosh, this thing is nice. It is notchy and precise, with a short throw. It takes you through the 1-2-3-4 uplifts like it is controlling you, it finds the gears effortlessly. A little urging the right and 5th is yours. It communicates between the driver and the machine in an amazing way. You can feel the power of the drive train, and you hear the transmission when it's under throttle. This will put a smile on you face, no question about it. It reminds me of military grade toggle switches, strong and reliable.

The install video from Barton is one of the best, but there were a few nits, which I e-mailed to Barton.

The install went very well, about 2.5 hours, but I took my time and also snapped many pictures along the way. Half the work is dealing with the Dodge console and electrical stuff. Each electrical connector is it's own little Detroit Puzzle LOL. The transmission mount pins take some effort, and so does the Barton boot, which I greased with white lithium. When you push the boot down over the shifter, you are basically bringing all the components together, and it will take some time an patience, but it is highly do-able.

Anyway, here are a bunch of photos from my install, feel free to ask any questions you like.

- Danner

ETA: Barton flat stick shifter ball uses an M12x1.25 thread, and the Barton supplied ball is 2.0" in diameter.







































 

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The shifter looks impressive, what is the thread pitch for the ball?...and what did it set you back shipped w/upgrades?
 

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That looks really good man I don't know if I want to lower or a short throw next all I know is I want a blue ball do you know if they sell it
 

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‘13 Challenger SRT 6M
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F-ing awesome!! Video soon of install and/or operation?


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Very nice. Can't wait until they start shipping end of month.


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Any type of noise compared to the Hurst
 

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By the way. That is ingenious using the Allen wrench for the rear pins. What a great idea.


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Discussion Starter #8
The shifter looks impressive, what is the thread pitch for the ball?...and what did it set you back shipped w/upgrades?
Don't know the thread pitch, but my guess is, same as Hurst. Barton set the price at $499, with flat stick and ball.
 

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For some reason those with RT's seem to have a problem with lining up the dust boot. Is there anyone that has installed one on a SRT with the same problem.
 

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For some reason those with RT's seem to have a problem with lining up the dust boot. Is there anyone that has installed one on a SRT with the same problem.
By Danner's avatar his is an SRT....Looks like they will have the same issue.
 

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Yes i saw where Danner was talking about a SRT. The difference is those with RT's talk about taking a lot of force to get it to go on. Danner and the video talk about patience and time working it on , in other words it doesn't just slide on.
 

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Yes i saw where Danner was talking about a SRT. The difference is those with RT's talk about taking a lot of force to get it to go on. Danner and the video talk about patience and time working it on , in other words it doesn't just slide on.
Probably the same I would think...

Danner - When putting the tunnel cover on with the dust cover was it pretty tight on the left side? If so it's the same as the RT's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Probably the same I would think...

Danner - When putting the tunnel cover on with the dust cover was it pretty tight on the left side? If so it's the same as the RT's.
Well, a little, but mostly because the shifter body is tilted to the left. Once the boot gets down to its lowest position on the shift body, it felt fairly well centered.

The issue for me was that the boot wanted to get pulled off the factory metal cover as I slid it down the shifter. The goal is to get the rubber boot to reach the machined grove on the shifter body. However, this is impossible to do until you tighten the rear mount, because tightening the rear mount lifts the shifter up through the hole in the metal cover. But, you can't tighten the rear mount until the boot is slid down far enough. If you watch Barton's install video carefully, you see that they push the boot down to the machined groove after the assembly is lifted into position.

If I do another one, it will be much easier. Also, I would test fit the metal cover before I inserted the rubber boot, to see if the shifter was fairly well centered in the opening in the metal cover. If it is way off center, you have a serious fitment issue, like one of you showed in the other thread (us1champ's).
 

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Danner, did you do the entire install solo or did you have an extra set of hands?? Was there anything you did differently than the Barton install or looking back was there anything you would do differently now that it's in?? Any tools you wished you had that would have made it easier?? I am already looking around my toolbox to make sure I have a tube of lithium, I have blue loctite already, and my set of plastic hotrod pry tools that I am looking at to assist in putting the boot on. I am thinking what I could use on the pins (dental pick or something similar) and ensure I have a magnet for dropped bolts (I have been meaning to pick one up for a while now so I don't have scratches all over my forearms like usual...lol)

I am going to try and find some thicker sound deadening material too. Dynomat is more to stop vibrations not block sound...I used to have a thick blue mat stuff but gave the roll away a long time ago and can't remeber what it was called.

Anyhow thanks for the review!!
 

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The shifter looks impressive, what is the thread pitch for the ball?...and what did it set you back shipped w/upgrades?
On all their other sticks its M12X1.25 Thread, so I would assume this one is the same unless they suddenly decided that they were doing a one off stick just for the Challenger with an oddball thread...there are some KILLER shift balls out there that I am sure will fit (the naked Betty Boop is kinda callin my name!! :cheers: Even though it says its for a Mustang it will fit any 12x1.25)

Ford Mustang Shift Knob 12x1 25 and 12x1 75 Threads 1979 2013 | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Danner, did you do the entire install solo or did you have an extra set of hands?? Was there anything you did differently than the Barton install or looking back was there anything you would do differently now that it's in?? Any tools you wished you had that would have made it easier?? I am already looking around my toolbox to make sure I have a tube of lithium, I have blue loctite already, and my set of plastic hotrod pry tools that I am looking at to assist in putting the boot on. I am thinking what I could use on the pins (dental pick or something similar) and ensure I have a magnet for dropped bolts (I have been meaning to pick one up for a while now so I don't have scratches all over my forearms like usual...lol)

I am going to try and find some thicker sound deadening material too. Dynomat is more to stop vibrations not block sound...I used to have a thick blue mat stuff but gave the roll away a long time ago and can't remeber what it was called.

Anyhow thanks for the review!!
Yes, I did it by myself. It's not worse then any other car-mod job. But, there are always a few hassles. In this case, the first was removing the leather shifter boot. You need the trim tool, and you need to be careful and work your way around the plastic bezel, prying the snap-clips lose. I bought this tool from AuoZone for $10:



Next, was getting the cup-holder part of the console off. You just lift it at the rear, but it takes some force and there isn't an easy way to grip it.

Then, getting the pins out of the rear of the transmission, which I show in my photos on page 1 of this thread. The allen wrench helped a lot.

Then, there is assembly of the shifter, rubber boot, metal tunnel cover, and rear shifter mount. Watch the Barton video and read these threads. It's a job, but you can do it.

I don't think you need to worry about any sound deadening. Mine sounds great.

Good luck.
 
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