Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good day to all, couple things, I am looking to swap out my stock 6 - speed shifter for either a Barton or Hurst shifter. Has anyone in the group actually tried both and what are the differences? I am looking for a short throw shifter as well.
Also, I am looking to remove the flow restricters in the transmission. Has anyone removed the restricters and were you satisfied with the results.

Thank you, have a great day all.
 

·
Registered
2010 Challenger SRT 6spd detonator yellow
Joined
·
511 Posts
I personally have the Hurst to have the retro look of a pistol grip and the ratcheting sound of banging gears.........
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,521 Posts
One of my favorite mods is the Barton shifter, it made a world of difference in driving my SRT. I added the skip shift eliminator at the same time.

Check out the thread listed below :)


- Alexis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
If you are referring to the CDV(clutch delay valve)

Definitely remove it, no remorse here. Many threads if you search on how its done “CDV removal” or “Delete”

Personally have the Barton, no regerts
 

·
Super Moderator
2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
Joined
·
18,605 Posts

A Guy
 

·
Registered
2017 T/A 5.7 A8 front and rear strut braces frame connectors
Joined
·
1,272 Posts
I swapped out my oem shifter for a barton and it didn’t make a difference the transmission still was crunchy with the only a shorter throw.so if you’re thinking it’s going to make a difference to put a new shifter in wil change the crunchyness in the transmission it won’t and the barton wasn’t the problem it’s the tremec
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,766 Posts
go with Barton - I've had both

the Hurst is more $$ by $100 and they're noisy. Buzzes and vibration are the issues and while the throws are shorter, the QC is pretty sloppy

the Barton is more precise and the self-centering springs bring the shifter back to the 3 - 4 gate and past more positive feel. Very minimal noise. You'll hear some gear growl taking off in 1st (if sound system is off), but that's part of the charm of a mechanical component of a manual transmission

the Barton allows different shifter levers - you can use the OEM handle or others that use the OEM style mount or the extra cost option of what Barton offers.

had the Barton been around back in '11 when I changed out my first Challenger's shifter - I would have got one then. At the time, Hurst was the only option and I had the Larry K. mod done to correct the QC deficiencies that Hurst didn't get right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
One of my favorite mods is the Barton shifter, it made a world of difference in driving my SRT. I added the skip shift eliminator at the same time.

Check out the thread listed below :)


- Alexis
Great info Alexis. Much appreciated. I am definitely sold on the Barton shifter now. I do love the old school pistol grip shifter.

Thank you, Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
go with Barton - I've had both

the Hurst is more $$ by $100 and they're noisy. Buzzes and vibration are the issues and while the throws are shorter, the QC is pretty sloppy

the Barton is more precise and the self-centering springs bring the shifter back to the 3 - 4 gate and past more positive feel. Very minimal noise. You'll hear some gear growl taking off in 1st (if sound system is off), but that's part of the charm of a mechanical component of a manual transmission

the Barton allows different shifter levers - you can use the OEM handle or others that use the OEM style mount or the extra cost option of what Barton offers.

had the Barton been around back in '11 when I changed out my first Challenger's shifter - I would have got one then. At the time, Hurst was the only option and I had the Larry K. mod done to correct the QC deficiencies that Hurst didn't get right.
Thank you great info. Will be going with the Barton. I would really like to purchase the old style pistol grip shifter. Any thoughts on aftermarket shift handles that will fit the Barton?

Thank you, Andy
 

·
Registered
2011 R/T STP M6
Joined
·
66 Posts
Hey, new user here.

I've had a Barton in my 11 R/T since 2015. A few things and you can definitely make your own decision:

1. Throw is drastically reduced and noticeably so.

2. Though initially there is no play in the shifter while in gear, over the years it does loosen up so you'd have to go in and tighten it again. I've tried to before and had no luck with it, not sure if I'm doing it properly.

3. Install took 2+ more hours than what was said with me and a friend working on it. So this may be shorter for someone more mechanically inclined? Barton does have a detailed video on YouTube for the install so that was a great help.

4. The shifter does not remove the grittiness when shifting from 1-2, from what I've read, it's just the way that is TR6060 is stock, regardless of whether it's a Challenger, Camaro etc.

5. I'd do the Skip Shift Eliminator with the shifter together regardless of whichever brand you go with.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,521 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,766 Posts
Thank you great info. Will be going with the Barton. I would really like to purchase the old style pistol grip shifter. Any thoughts on aftermarket shift handles that will fit the Barton?

Thank you, Andy
one of my friends here has the Mr. Norm's replica of the Hurst Gunslinger (aka Pistol Grip) like the 70s models, except the grips are in carbon fiber style, not woodgrain.

There's also the Mopar version of the gunslinger handle (it was used on the Mopar 10s).

It bolts up in the same fashion as the OEM handle - so you don't need to optional (extra cost) parts from Barton.

you order the "OEM" version from Barton. If you decided down the road for other choices (Barton's flat stick) you can get the add on parts to make that possible.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
93 Posts
Brewer's Performance out of Ohio has the Pistol grip Hurst shift lever in either woodgrain, or carbon fiber. I had to do some mods to the shifter to get it to fit the Barton. I ordered the Barton with the stock shifter. The tangs on the Hurst were too narrow. A Dremel took care of that. Also, I shortened the Hurst removing the bottom of the three holes to better approximate the stock shifter height. The Barton install can be a bit tricky as already mentioned. A suggestion is to get the passenger pin located at front of the linkage started before installing the drivers side. It's tight corders.
991245
991246
991247
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
So to answer your question I’ve had a stock shifter, a Hurst Shifter and a Barton. The Barton overall is the best option but for me I liked having to grab the gears and bang them with the Hurst. The Barton is way more smooth with respect to engagement IMO.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
I dont understand why anyone would go from factory to barton or hurst. Both are basically the same design. Too many points that can become soft making shifting soft. Factory/barton/hurst all mount the same way, and use the same concept. Yes the barton is spring loaded, but so what. Only helps find the gears not improve on the real issues. You want to really improve it then you need to think outside the box. Change the shifter concept completely. Theres much better options out there. Ive seen a sequential shifter, yet it had a pretty price tag. Plus would need a remote shifter. Figure 2k for it. Now thats not really reasonable unless youve got a track dedicated car or have $$ to burn. The option i plan on installing costs 500. Eliminates ever factory shift point and definitely will improve the quality of the shift. Heres a pic of it.

s-l400 (2).jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,437 Posts


Pretty big difference in build quality, shift theow, and customizing the angle of attack

The advantages are countless , and its not very uncommon for shifters to bent/break from the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
I agree the barton and hurst are a step up from the factory. But its not the best route in my opinion. Eliminating the weak points makes a better shifter. See the one i posted? Goes directly to the trans instead of the stock crapola. Theres a point where the shift rod that comes from the shifter and to the trans is slop. Neither shifter address this problem. Look for the circle in pic attached to see/understand what i mean.
20200515_151823~2.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
I agree the barton and hurst are a step up from the factory. But its not the best route in my opinion. Eliminating the weak points makes a better shifter. See the one i posted? Goes directly to the trans instead of the stock crapola. Theres a point where the shift rod that comes from the shifter and to the trans is slop. Neither shifter address this problem. Look for the circle in pic attached to see/understand what i mean. View attachment 994841
Yeah but a sequential or relocating the shift location isnt really an option for most things outside of a full blown racecar


And whats the real advantage in the end? Almost 100k on my rt with the barton and i havent found the weak point, its billet aluminum

To go out and suggest you re-engineer the way your shifter is setup, it would cost just as much to buy an SN97 Mustang early 2000’s that have a t56 direct mounted shifter. Literally
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Yeah but a sequential or relocating the shift location isnt really an option for most things outside of a full blown racecar


And whats the real advantage in the end? Almost 100k on my rt with the barton and i havent found the weak point, its billet aluminum

To go out and suggest you re-engineer the way your shifter is setup, it would cost just as much to buy an SN97 Mustang early 2000’s that have a t56 direct mounted shifter. Literally
The shifter i posted pic of does eliminate the factory weak points and will work in these cars. Its what i plan on buying/running. Lot better then factory/barton/hurst set up. Shifter i posted pic of is same pricing as the barton/hurst. Its billet also.
I agree the sequential shifter is racecar stuff. Said that in my posting also
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
I dont understand why anyone would go from factory to barton or hurst. Both are basically the same design. Too many points that can become soft making shifting soft. Factory/barton/hurst all mount the same way, and use the same concept. Yes the barton is spring loaded, but so what. Only helps find the gears not improve on the real issues. You want to really improve it then you need to think outside the box. Change the shifter concept completely. Theres much better options out there. Ive seen a sequential shifter, yet it had a pretty price tag. Plus would need a remote shifter. Figure 2k for it. Now thats not really reasonable unless youve got a track dedicated car or have $$ to burn. The option i plan on installing costs 500. Eliminates ever factory shift point and definitely will improve the quality of the shift. Heres a pic of it.

View attachment 994836
I feel like you’ve never driven a car with a Barton installed. It may be the same design but that doesn’t mean it’s not light years ahead in quality and execution... comparing the 2 because they work the same way is like comparing an old Chevy 350 to an LS motor because they both have pushrods. No comparison.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top