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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a new widebody Scat Pack and it came with the base 6 speaker alpine system. The bass was ok but the highs were so bad. Overall I was pretty disappointed with the sound system. However, I'm glad I didn't spend $1k for the upgraded Alpine, which would've just added 2 more crappy speakers and a weak sub that I would end up replacing. The $2k option for Harmon Kardon might've sounded better than the base, but it is overpriced in my opinion and not worth spending that much. I can build a killer system for half that amount.

For under $600, I was able to replace the front dash speakers and add a 10" sub. I already had most of the parts from my older cars, the only new items I had to buy were the line out converter and the Infiniti 3032 3.5" speakers. Just these two changes alone made a massive improvement in the sound quality, and I saved a ton of money. I might upgrade the Infinitis in the future for a more high end speaker, but I snagged these for only $50 on Black Friday, so it was a cheap upgrade for me until I can decide on a more high-end speaker to replace it with.

In my opinion, replacing the dash speakers if you have the base system should be the first priority. The stock amp has more than enough juice to power the Infinitis and they sound crystal clear even when cranked, whereas the stock paper cone speakers sounded terrible at high volumes and had a very hollow sound to them, almost like I was listening to them at the end of a hallway.

After that I would replace the rear deck speakers since they are full range. Still haven't decided on which 6.5" I want to go with. I wouldn't bother replacing the 6x9s in the door since they basically just act as subs.

In the video I show how to remove the dash and my overall thoughts. I'll add more to this thread once I replace the rear deck speakers.

 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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After that I would replace the rear deck speakers since they are full range. Still haven't decided on which 6.5" I want to go with. I wouldn't bother replacing the 6x9s in the door since they basically just act as subs.
As an alternative solution to the rear deck upgrade dilemma, here’s what I tried (and very much liked): scuttle the two speakers altogether and bridge their channels to power a single 4 ohm SVC RF 8” midbase mounted in the factory 8” sub hole. Setting its HPF to take over where the sub’s LPF is set allows for a smooth transition and actually improved the overall sound in my setup, as opposed to providing a distraction like the rear deck speakers were doing in their stock setup.
 
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The only thing I miss about when I traded my Trailblazer LTZ for the Challenger was the Bose Sound System it had compared to what I got
Just dont want to spend crazy money to update the Audio System and I am not into ground shaking bass just a nice full range sound.
Everytime I look for Better Speakers Pioneer, JBL replacements they are sold out back order or just NA
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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The only thing I miss about when I traded my Trailblazer LTZ for the Challenger was the Bose Sound System it had compared to what I got
Just dont want to spend crazy money to update the Audio System and I am not into ground shaking bass just a nice full range sound.
Everytime I look for Better Speakers Pioneer, JBL replacements they are sold out back order or just NA
Ive got a set of Kenwood Excelon components for the door and dash I’m about to pull out of my 2014 and will need a home once I do (the 2012 is for drag strip only, weight savings, etc). Send me a PM if you’re interested in giving them a good home.
 

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I have to disagree a little:

IMHO Having gone the other way, thethe rear deck speakers are fill in, and nothing sounds great there. Your soundstage should be in front of you, as if you were at a concert, nobody is playing behind you.

The 6x9 in the door are the best souning speaker in the car. I would upgrade the 6x9 first, rear deck last.

I did the rear deck first (mistake) and saw very little improvement with Kappa's there Then did kappa 6x9 and reference 3.5 and10" Rockford Fosgate amplified sub and the car lit up. Sounded very good, still using the factory amp. This is a great solution huge improvement and great sound.

I have since upgraded the amp to a Kenwood DSP amp. after quite a bit of tuning on my part it sounds great.

I started with the Alpine system with amp and no subwoofer, I am not sure where that fits into the lineup.

YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have to disagree a little:

IMHO Having gone the other way, thethe rear deck speakers are fill in, and nothing sounds great there. Your soundstage should be in front of you, as if you were at a concert, nobody is playing behind you.

The 6x9 in the door are the best souning speaker in the car. I would upgrade the 6x9 first, rear deck last.

I did the rear deck first (mistake) and saw very little improvement with Kappa's there Then did kappa 6x9 and reference 3.5 and10" Rockford Fosgate amplified sub and the car lit up. Sounded very good, still using the factory amp. This is a great solution huge improvement and great sound.

I have since upgraded the amp to a Kenwood DSP amp. after quite a bit of tuning on my part it sounds great.

I started with the Alpine system with amp and no subwoofer, I am not sure where that fits into the lineup.

YMMV
Interesting that changing the 6x9s made a big difference. I thought only low frequencies were routed to that speaker in the factory configuration. Do your 6x9s also pump out vocals and higher frequencies after you changed them? Right now I can only hear bass from the factory 6x9s.
 

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Interesting that changing the 6x9s made a big difference. I thought only low frequencies were routed to that speaker in the factory configuration. Do your 6x9s also pump out vocals and higher frequencies after you changed them? Right now I can only hear bass from the factory 6x9s.
Yes, full range. I didn't check the stock ones out so I can't say what theywere originally other than not very good lol. They are not subs. At least not in the 2019. I had the factory 270ish watt amp, if that changes from yours.

Now I have the 600 watt kenwood DSP amp and all sorts of control there. I can make any speaker anything, Graphic and parametric eqs, crossover, time alignment all through an app on smart phone.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Interesting that changing the 6x9s made a big difference. I thought only low frequencies were routed to that speaker in the factory configuration. Do your 6x9s also pump out vocals and higher frequencies after you changed them? Right now I can only hear bass from the factory 6x9s.
In the base audio setup that is powered only by the head-unit (no factory amp), those front two channels are full range, but the dash and door speaker share a channel on each side (parallel wiring). So the stock 6x9 will get the mid and high frequencies and play those that it can, but the dash speaker will play the high frequencies at a much greater level due to its construction and inline HPF. The stock door drivers don’t have a tweeter, so they are only capable of playing the frequencies up to about where the dash speakers start playing.

For cars that have a factory amp, those dash and door speakers have their own channels, and I don’t believe they are fed full range as a result. IIRC the stock amp emulates a DSP by only feeding the channel frequencies its speaker can realistically play.

This would be a factor to consider in any speaker upgrade, as installing a 2-way or 3-way 6x9 in the door of a car with a factory amp would not be a good fit. The speaker won’t get full range to take advantage of the 2nd/3rd ways, so those would be wasted as an upgrade. Component speakers would be better for that upgrade scenario.

Actually the components are better in all scenarios just about, but in the setup that has no factory amp, going with some quality 2-way or 3-way 6x9s in the doors is still an acceptable upgrade for most folks since they’ll have all their “ways” getting utilized by the parallel wiring and full range signal.
 
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For cars that have a factory amp, those dash and door speakers have their own channels, and I don’t believe they are fed full range as a result. IIRC the stock amp emulates a DSP by only feeding the channel frequencies its speaker can realistically play.

This would be a factor to consider in any speaker upgrade, as installing a 2-way or 3-way 6x9 in the door of a car with a factory amp would not be a good fit. The speaker won’t get full range to take advantage of the 2nd/3rd ways, so those would be wasted as an upgrade. Component speakers would be better for that upgrade scenario.
My experience does nt support this at all. I changed all 6 speakers with the factory amp and it sounded very good. Incredible difference. I think the factory amp does feed full range and the chepa spekers are just using chokes to control what they see. This could be wrong but I know what I heard and it was a huge improvement,
 

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The stock 6-speaker Alpine amplified system definitely only sends bass frequencies to the door channels and only mids/highs to the dash channels. The rear speaker channels are the only ones that receive a full-range signal with the Alpine 6-speaker amplified system.
 

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I upgraded all my speakers (Alpine 6 speaker with amp) in my ‘17 RT to much better Kicker speakers and I could tell a difference immediately even with the stock amp.

That upgrade combined with RAAMmat BXT sound deadening material and their Ensolite covering and a LOC for a dual 10” sealed box sub attached to a dedicated amp has made a huge difference in sound quality.
 

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As an alternative solution to the rear deck upgrade dilemma, here’s what I tried (and very much liked): scuttle the two speakers altogether and bridge their channels to power a single 4 ohm SVC RF 8” midbase mounted in the factory 8” sub hole. Setting its HPF to take over where the sub’s LPF is set allows for a smooth transition and actually improved the overall sound in my setup, as opposed to providing a distraction like the rear deck speakers were doing in their stock setup.
Nuke I’m curious. So you have a sub in trunk. And a mid base on rear deck. How are setting these HPF and LPF ? Do you have the Kenwood Maestro system too?

The stock 6-speaker Alpine amplified system definitely only sends bass frequencies to the door channels and only mids/highs to the dash channels. The rear speaker channels are the only ones that receive a full-range signal with the Alpine 6-speaker amplified system.
Also wanted to add that I think the amp channels have a governor. So the higher you crank it the less it sends to rears. And maybe the fronts. i Installed the Kenwood Maestro system to get around this specifically.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Nuke I’m curious. So you have a sub in trunk. And a mid base on rear deck. How are setting these HPF and LPF ? Do you have the Kenwood Maestro system too?
I do not have the Maestro unfortunately. I would have liked one, but as it was I had to set things up by ear using the published specs for the speakers to get it as tuned as I could without a DSP.

I actually had that same setup in both my Chargers, moving it from the 2012 to the 2014 after acquiring the 2014. I also had it set up with two different 8” speakers and then two very different sub setups in the trunk. Both times I set the rear channel HPF (controlling the 8” midbass) at the published floor frequency for that speaker and the LPF for the sub amp at the same frequency. Then I adjusted each incrementally to fine tune according to some of the music I normally listen loud.

The HPF for the 1st 8” ended up being around 70-80 Hz if I remember correctly, and the 10” ported JL Audio sub landed slightly above (~80-90 Hz).

After switching cars, I tried the RF 8” and it’s HPF landed right at 65Hz IIRC, with the same for the LPF on the ported JL Audio 10” I am thinking.

The final configuration was swapping out the 10” JL Audio in a ported box and installing a 12” JL Audio in a sealed box (still with the RF 8”). That shifted the HPF/LPF slightly higher IIRC, landing them around 75-80 Hz IIRC.

I removed all the aftermarket speakers I had in both cars recently, so it’s not still set up for me to verify any of this, I’m just going off memory unfortunately
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Speaking of tuning by ear, or hell even by DSP maybe, I found an app that helped me quite a bit while doing all that - Tone Gen
Communication Device Font Gadget Gesture Portable communications device

I have an iPhone, so I found it in the Apple App Store. I’m not sure if there is an Android version, but so would be surprised if there wasn’t.
 

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Thanks Nuke good info. Still lost on what tool you use to tweak all the frequencies tho :D You said you dont have the Maestro. And I don’t think you can tweak the factory amp. Just curious I’m kinda geeking out on all this stuff. Forgive me if it’s a newb question.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Thanks Nuke good info. Still lost on what tool you use to tweak all the frequencies tho :D You said you dont have the Maestro. And I don’t think you can tweak the factory amp. Just curious I’m kinda geeking out on all this stuff. Forgive me if it’s a newb question.
sorry I was thinking you were talking about a DSP, just dawned on me you were talking about a factory harness adapter.

I integrated my amps the hard way - by routing the speaker wires out of the head unit into a LOC (LC6i) and then RCAs from that into my amps. I didn’t have a factory amp to bypass, so it didn’t occur to me to get an adapter like the Maestro...until it was too late.

Anyway, all the adjustments I made were on the aftermarket amps I wired in after the LOC.
 
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So, it was a Tone Loc? Funky :D

A Guy
 

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Hi all - I have a 2020 RT+ with the base Alpine unit. I'm not needing thumping bass but just like the OP, the high end was definitely lacking for me so picked up some JBLs from Crutchfield and they sound great. Looking at the dash though, there sure looks to be the ability to add a 3rd small speaker in the front center including the cutout in the dash cover, a recession in the dash and even the 2 screw holes for another speaker. I don't see any wiring though although I wonder if it could be spliced into either the left or right factory wire without adverse effect. Has anyone tried such?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Hi all - I have a 2020 RT+ with the base Alpine unit. I'm not needing thumping bass but just like the OP, the high end was definitely lacking for me so picked up some JBLs from Crutchfield and they sound great. Looking at the dash though, there sure looks to be the ability to add a 3rd small speaker in the front center including the cutout in the dash cover, a recession in the dash and even the 2 screw holes for another speaker. I don't see any wiring though although I wonder if it could be spliced into either the left or right factory wire without adverse effect. Has anyone tried such?
IMHO adding another 3.5” in the center dash in a non-SGII audio setup won’t improve overall sound quality enough to justify the effort and expense needed to do it.
 
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