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I'm looking to upgrade my speakers and add a couple amps. I have a 2015 RT with the base system(no amp). I've upgraded to the 8.4 recently, and now want to replace all the speakers, amp them, as well as add a sub in the trunk. Do I need to run something like a DSR1, or am I ok going from the head straight to the new amps? Or would I be better off with something else between the head and amps? I've been reading up for a few days on DSP's, LOC's, and I'm just not sure what I do and don't need.
 

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If I may...

I have the RA2/5.0 and my car makes 100db on the Audio Tools app (with .wavs).

For my listening (classic rock, before subs were invented!) that's plenty of sound and frequency response, so I'm going for quality and lifespan improvements.

I've found my doors create all frequencies I can hear (despite advice here) - this is base RA2/ base speakers/no amp. (They do 'break up' a bit with high powered lows.)

I've tried 62ix in my Durango (after earlier 4 ohm mistake...) and like them, I will be going with these for Challenger doors and deck. (I just can't justify $ for oval speakers.)

If I were you...

I'd really try speaker upgrades before committing to amp install.
If that head produces around "200 watts" that's probably 100 real watts 4 ways (25 RMS each quadrant) and that's a lot of sound with efficient speakers in a closed space.

I'd also get that Audio Tools app, it's $8 Android, a lot of analyser for that price.

Test out that head and positions for freq and dBs.
If you don't really need 25 Hz for the listeners outside the car, good speakers will go to 45 Hz (old bass guitar is 41Hz occasionally) easily.

From my reading, the add an amp process gets real complicated real fast.

GL!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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the pac piece is used for adding amps. you don't have to have factory amp
We may be talking about different hardware, but i have specifically inquired of someone who ran one of the PAC devices to add more amps if they saw any way it would work on a system that did not have a factory amp to begin with, and they said no they couldn't see any way it would work. The PAC device has to plug into the factory amp to allow for the additional non-factory amps, at least that's the way I understand it to work.

I have heard these only work with cars that have factory amp as well
If you are going to keep the factory h/u, and you do not have a factory amp, the only way I know of to add aftermarket amps is to use a LOC in between the h/u and the aftermarket amp(s). This is what I have done, and it is certainly doable. However, it is a little convoluted to get working due to the factory h/u's refusal to send sound signals down the speaker wires when it detects the out-of-range impedance that the LOC will present.

In a nutshell, you have to wire in some inline resistors to each speaker channel after the h/u and before the LOC to fool the h/u into sending the sound signals down the line as usual. The resistors are relatively inexpensive, I got mine locally at a Frys for $1 each, but they need to be mounted somewhere so they won't come loose or get too hot and damage whatever they are resting on. In my case I used the heavy duty slide-out equipment rack that was already in the trunk of the car (former cop car), replacing the metal shelf with a wooden one and affixing the resistors to the underside of that board. From there it was easy to run the speaker wires to the top side where the LOC is (LC6i), and then run the RCAs out of the LOC and into the amps (I currently have 3 total).

Like I said, it's doable, but it can be a pain to set up at first. That's why upgrading the h/u to an aftermarket one with sub pre-amp outputs is usually the preferred method of enabling the addition of an aftermarket amp to the base audio system. In my case, that was not an option since I need the factory h/u to be able to control some of the dash functions like climate and such.
 
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