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I really need some help here. I 2010 supercharged RT. I garage it. and dont use it every day some times not for a week or 2. I am having battery issues. it will die on me within a week of it sitting and its only a year old. I bought a 900 volt jump starter but it wont jump the car. I know it could be a bad battery. any ideas of how to keep it charged while the car is sitting? I dont have an outlet in the garage.
 

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There are only so many ways to deal with this problem. 1) drive the car often 2) put the battery on a trickle charger such as a Battery Tender (you say you have no outlet, Battery Tender does make a solar panel that hooks up to their Tender).

Aside from that there aren't too many other options unless you want to remove the battery and bring it in the house to put on a Battery Tender type charger but what a PITA that would be!
 

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If you have to replace the battery go with a deep cycle/marine type. They're meant to go longer between charges without cells dying.
 

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Do you have the kicker sub in the trunk? Have one in mine and it draws the battery. Disconnected it when I park the car and it doesn't draw the battery any longer.
 

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@Venom I have a custom stereo. I going to have the connected to a second battery soon enough. @CERI Can you tell me where to look for these batteries and who makes them? I think I will look into that. @GlennW I plan on doing that as well.
 

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@Venom I have a custom stereo. I going to have the connected to a second battery soon enough. @CERI Can you tell me where to look for these batteries and who makes them? I think I will look into that. @GlennW I plan on doing that as well.
Mine has the stock kicker in the trunk. There is a connector on top of the sub on the left hand side in the trunk. I'll try to get a pic next week when I am back up at Arrington.
 

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@Venom I have a custom stereo. I going to have the connected to a second battery soon enough. @CERI Can you tell me where to look for these batteries and who makes them? I think I will look into that. @GlennW I plan on doing that as well.
A popular model is an Optima Yellowtop. They also make red and blue, but yellow is the marine grade one. I believe there's a Diehard Platinum Marine too. Those are just some of the nicer ones. You may be able to find something more run-of-the-mill at Walmart/Sears/boat supply store/etc. Look for a high reserve capacity to avoid voltage sagging too low between charges. More capacity = more stored energy = higher voltage when you haven't turned the engine over in 2 weeks. Higher voltage is the difference between engine turning over and not.

There are also some audio batteries out there that are basically the same thing, and 100% okay to use. Kinetik makes a bunch in different sizes. XS Power, Shuriken, Stinger, etc. All should be perfectly adequate for starting the car after long periods of inactivity, but keep an eye on those reserve capacity numbers. Too small (physically) means less capacity and audio batteries do come in small sizes. The group rating information is mostly about physical dimensions. Bigger = larger capacity, but there's nothing magical about matching the size other than it's sure to fit in place of the OEM battery. Group Ratings are an industry way of trying to simplify things for people.

I like batteries with 2 sets of posts so I can hook up audio/aftermarket gear to one and OEM factory wiring to the other. That way, when I'm working on the aftermarket stuff (disconnected), I can still start the car and run down to the store. There are a few places this doesn't work, like swapping the head unit since it gets power from the factory harness, but amps, LEDs, fans, etc. can all be safely disconnected while the rest of the car is still ready to roll.
 

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A popular model is an Optima Yellowtop. They also make red and blue, but yellow is the marine grade one. I believe there's a Diehard Platinum Marine too. Those are just some of the nicer ones. You may be able to find something more run-of-the-mill at Walmart/Sears/boat supply store/etc. Look for a high reserve capacity to avoid voltage sagging too low between charges. More capacity = more stored energy = higher voltage when you haven't turned the engine over in 2 weeks. Higher voltage is the difference between engine turning over and not.

There are also some audio batteries out there that are basically the same thing, and 100% okay to use. Kinetik makes a bunch in different sizes. XS Power, Shuriken, Stinger, etc. All should be perfectly adequate for starting the car after long periods of inactivity, but keep an eye on those reserve capacity numbers. Too small (physically) means less capacity and audio batteries do come in small sizes. The group rating information is mostly about physical dimensions. Bigger = larger capacity, but there's nothing magical about matching the size other than it's sure to fit in place of the OEM battery. Group Ratings are an industry way of trying to simplify things for people.

I like batteries with 2 sets of posts so I can hook up audio/aftermarket gear to one and OEM factory wiring to the other. That way, when I'm working on the aftermarket stuff (disconnected), I can still start the car and run down to the store. There are a few places this doesn't work, like swapping the head unit since it gets power from the factory harness, but amps, LEDs, fans, etc. can all be safely disconnected while the rest of the car is still ready to roll.
If your replacing your stock battery, you'll need to get on that has vent holes on the Pos. end that you can plug your vent tube into if you do a lot of spirited driving. I've seen several that have leaked acid without the vent tube hooked up at the track.
 

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Looks good on paper. A little expensive. I've never used them, but I haven't used a lot of things.
 

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You have a current draw problem that you need to track down. No way should the battery go dead in 1-2 weeks. The parasitic draw of the factory system is only about 35 mA when everything is correct. By any chance are you leaving a Trinity connected or some other OBDII gauges, etc?
 
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