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Good and valuable info.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BTW, I should specify that these are open circuit voltage readings.

State of charge(in percent) are approximate, and at 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
 

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I have 14.4 V.. is ok?

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
The voltage you are reading is most likely with the car running which is fine as the alternator is charging that battery which can vary from ~13-15 volts. The voltage given above are of a battery that is not connected to the vehicle or any loads.
 

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One evening I drove the 2016 Scat Pack about 20 miles then parked in the garage. The next morning the EVIC was cycling on and off. I started the car then turned it off. The EVIC continued to cycle. I had to leave for the day and when I returned the battery checked at approx 11v and would not start the car. After charging battery took it to dealer, they determined the alternator was not charging battery properly and replaced the alternator. Everything appears normal since except battery voltage falls to approximately 12.15 to 12.20 within 24 hours of last usage. Is this normal? I had always believed a healthy battery should retain close to 12.5 volts for extended time.
 

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I have 14.4 V.. is ok?

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
I've observed mine at 12.8V when doing the uConnect upates - with this being on for 35 - 40 minutes
>Ignition On, Engine Off
>HVAC Off
>Lights Off
>Door closed

with ignition On all four O2 sensors heaters are on when KO,EO and that draws some current
 

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One evening I drove the 2016 Scat Pack about 20 miles then parked in the garage. The next morning the EVIC was cycling on and off. I started the car then turned it off. The EVIC continued to cycle. I had to leave for the day and when I returned the battery checked at approx 11v and would not start the car. After charging battery took it to dealer, they determined the alternator was not charging battery properly and replaced the alternator. Everything appears normal since except battery voltage falls to approximately 12.15 to 12.20 within 24 hours of last usage. Is this normal? I had always believed a healthy battery should retain close to 12.5 volts for extended time.
Ask the dealer if they checked for a "parasitic draw' on the battery(I'll bet they didn't). Sounds like something is drawing down your battery while not in use. Typically the draw on the battery should be under 50mA when the key is off and nothing is on(like an opened door light or under hood light, for example.).
You tube has many videos on the subject.

Sounds like your draw may very well be associated with the EVIC system.

Edit: Start looking for another dealer.
 

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Ask the dealer if they checked for a "parasitic draw' on the battery(I'll bet they didn't). Sounds like something is drawing down your battery while not in use. Typically the draw on the battery should be under 50mA when the key is off and nothing is on(like an opened door light or under hood light, for example.).
You tube has many videos on the subject.

Sounds like your draw may very well be associated with the EVIC system.

Edit: Start looking for another dealer.
Dealer stated they performed complete electrical system check whatever that is. I asked what type of battery test they performed and they replied only a load test. The battery was tested at Advance auto and passed but voltage was only 12.15. Tested the battery at O"Riellys also and it shut down their tester 3 times without giving a result. Parasitic draw was only 1.3mA when I performed the test. Something tells me this battery has a problem but I've run out of talent trying to prove my hunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Dealer stated they performed complete electrical system check whatever that is. I asked what type of battery test they performed and they replied only a load test. The battery was tested at Advance auto and passed but voltage was only 12.15. Tested the battery at O"Riellys also and it shut down their tester 3 times without giving a result. Parasitic draw was only 1.3mA when I performed the test. Something tells me this battery has a problem but I've run out of talent trying to prove my hunch.
I think your hunch is right. Fully charge your battery then get it load tested somewhere reliable. Just my hunch as well. Check the volts at the batt while it's running just to see if it's correct.
 

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Very strange! Sounds like it was load tested twice but agree with @dodgemahal, double check that charging voltage.
Sure sounds like it's being drawn down. Are you sure it read 1.5mA and not 1.5Amp?
I had a case where my Charger's battery went dead in the first year and when the dealer checked it out couldn't find anything, so they just put a new battery in it. Never had a problem after that but I used it almost daily.
It just so happened that I hadn't used the car for about 3 days prior to when the battery went dead. Coincidentally, a couple of years after that I discovered my battery would die after 3 days of no use. This time I checked for parasitic drains myself and found it was, what is called the "hands free module" (a part of the EVIC system) drawing it down.. Two days of not using the car apparently was not a problem. So I always wondered if that was the problem the first time the battery went dead. I'll never know.
I'm anxious to find what they find the problem to be in your case.
 
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Very strange! Sounds like it was load tested twice but agree with @dodgemahal, double check that charging voltage.
Sure sounds like it's being drawn down. Are you sure it read 1.5mA and not 1.5Amp?
Charging voltage is normal, 14.2 to 14.4. After your question I realized 1.5mA is way to low for normal parasitic draw, performed another test this afternoon, it was drawing .3 Amp. I must have screwed something up the last time. I checked it with and without Tazer installed, no difference. I will take it back to dealer and have them do a parasitic draw test. Will let you know if we find anything.

I've had 2 Dodge trucks that did strange things electrically when the battery was nearing the end of its life. While having breakfast in Cracker Barrel we watched the lights come on, Windows go down and doors unlock in the Ram. The battery had a short.
 

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Charging voltage is normal, 14.2 to 14.4. After your question I realized 1.5mA is way to low for normal parasitic draw, performed another test this afternoon, it was drawing .3 Amp. I must have screwed something up the last time. I checked it with and without Tazer installed, no difference. I will take it back to dealer and have them do a parasitic draw test. Will let you know if we find anything.

I've had 2 Dodge trucks that did strange things electrically when the battery was nearing the end of its life. While having breakfast in Cracker Barrel we watched the lights come on, Windows go down and doors unlock in the Ram. The battery had a short.
I do know these newer cars draw more power when at rest, due to all the sophisticated computer stuff, but I don't know what that draw typically is.
But 0.3 Amp is 300mA which is a substantial draw and is about what mine was drawing when it drained the battery in 3 days.
My money is still on the EVIC stuff. Too much of a coincidence.

EDIT: Just thinking about what you said about strange things happening when the battery gets low. My EVIC screen was talking (printed text) to me in German when my battery was too weak too crank the car.:surprise::eek:hthedrama:
 

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Off topic for a second.
I see you're from SC. I was just talking with someone today that mentioned she went down to SC with her father recently who was involved in breaking the record for the worlds largest meatball. Something like 1100 PLUS lbs.
LMAO
 

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Off topic for a second.
I see you're from SC. I was just talking with someone today that mentioned she went down to SC with her father recently who was involved in breaking the record for the worlds largest meatball. Something like 1100 PLUS lbs.
LMAO
I'm originally from upstate NY. In SC, lower cost of living plus lack of severe winter weather leaves more time & $ for activities such as tinkering with the Challenger and making big meatballs. :laugh2:
 

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Battery drain update. About 2 weeks ago I was searching for the source of the .3 amp drain. When the #2 fuse (60A FRT PDC Feed #1) in the trunk fuse box was pulled amperage drain dropped form .3 to .04. When the fuse was reinstalled the .3 amp draw DID NOT return. The battery has been disconnected for 2 weeks and the battery held at 12.5 volts. Maybe the problem is solved but I can't understand why removing and reinstalling the fuse eliminated the excessive draw.
 

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Battery Draw

I've observed mine at 12.8V when doing the uConnect upates - with this being on for 35 - 40 minutes
>Ignition On, Engine Off
>HVAC Off
>Lights Off
>Door closed

with ignition On all four O2 sensors heaters are on when KO,EO and that draws some current
When I load a new tune, my headlights remain on all the time also even when the headlight switch is set to off. :surprise:
Sometimes this takes 35 - 40 minuts also. I always connect a battery charger while updateing.
 

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Battery drain update. About 2 weeks ago I was searching for the source of the .3 amp drain. When the #2 fuse (60A FRT PDC Feed #1) in the trunk fuse box was pulled amperage drain dropped form .3 to .04. When the fuse was reinstalled the .3 amp draw DID NOT return. The battery has been disconnected for 2 weeks and the battery held at 12.5 volts. Maybe the problem is solved but I can't understand why removing and reinstalling the fuse eliminated the excessive draw.
One assumption could be that when you broke the circuit to the Front Power Distribution Center, that it may have reset the problem item, which in turn eliminated the draw.
Hopefully it won't happen again.
If by chance it should ever reoccur, I would check the Front Power Distribution Center (fuse by fuse) for an excessive draw, so that you may pinpoint the culprit.

Glad to hear it was solved!
 
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