Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
2012 Challenger R/T
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So about a month ago my battery indicator light came on and all of a sudden my car started to act weird. The traction light came on, the abs light came on, my windows wouldn't roll down. So I pulled over and let the car sit for a few minutes I got back in the car and it started up with no problem, no abs indicator coming on, no battery indicator coming on everything is working fine. Until this morning... It started to do the same thing... Could it be that I need a battery? Or alternator... BTW I bought the car used its a 2012 RT... I had it for two years.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,294 Posts
First thing I would do is to check the battery terminals to verify that they are tight (and no corrosion). Next, check the battery voltage with a good voltmeter and verify ~12.5 V. Then start the car with the voltmeter still connected and then verify ~13.5 V to ~14+ V. Finally, take the car to AutoZone (or similar) and have them load test the battery (they do it for free).

If all the above is good, then you battery & alternator is not likely to be the problem. If you don't have a code reader, AutoZone will read any stored codes that may indicate where to look next.
 

·
Registered
2012 Challenger R/T
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, I had AAA come out and he checked the alternator... The voltage was low like 12v so I'm waiting for a flat bed now to take me to the dealership. Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
If you still have the original battery change it!
 

·
Registered
2012 Challenger R/T
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Update! Comes to find out that my alternator had went out and the power module....i should have it by Tuesday hopefully.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
6,184 Posts
Update! Comes to find out that my alternator had went out and the power module....i should have it by Tuesday hopefully.
Question1: did it happen to have any DTCs stored?

It's possible there was one (or more) set but the CEL wouldn't necessarily be illuminated depending upon the code, e.g. P0622.

Question2: what did you mean by "the power module"?

The voltage regulator on these cars is actually in the PCM, so I'm wondering if that's what you're referring to there.


The reason I'm asking all these question is that I've got an ongoing issue with my Challenger which only intermittently shows up, and when it does, it's always via the battery light and a stored P0622, but the CEL light never illuminates. I've been able to clear the fault each time by doing different things, but it's becoming more common and harder to clear. So things are coming to a head I know, but I'm just trying everything I can to diagnose it myself...with little luck unfortunately. :frown:
 

·
Registered
Boosted Stroked 2014 Shaker M6
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Question1: did it happen to have any DTCs stored?

It's possible there was one (or more) set but the CEL wouldn't necessarily be illuminated depending upon the code, e.g. P0622.

Question2: what did you mean by "the power module"?

The voltage regulator on these cars is actually in the PCM, so I'm wondering if that's what you're referring to there.


The reason I'm asking all these question is that I've got an ongoing issue with my Challenger which only intermittently shows up, and when it does, it's always via the battery light and a stored P0622, but the CEL light never illuminates. I've been able to clear the fault each time by doing different things, but it's becoming more common and harder to clear. So things are coming to a head I know, but I'm just trying everything I can to diagnose it myself...with little luck unfortunately. :frown:
I just went through this with my Shaker (P0622). Dealer replaced the alternator, and a week later the battery light comes back on, and the battery isn't being charged. Dealer replaced the alternator again, and now the problem appears to be resolved. :scratchhead:
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
6,184 Posts
I just went through this with my Shaker (P0622). Dealer replaced the alternator, and a week later the battery light comes back on, and the battery isn't being charged. Dealer replaced the alternator again, and now the problem appears to be resolved. :scratchhead:
Was the alternator that they originally replaced the factory/OE one?

Did they say what was wrong the alternator(s), or did they just say it was a bad generator and replace them?
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
6,184 Posts
Is yours covered under the alternator recall?
No, that's 2011+ IIRC.

But mine isn't the factory/OE alternator anyway, it's a reman unit I put on last year when OE one crapped out on me.
 

·
Registered
Boosted Stroked 2014 Shaker M6
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
Was the alternator that they originally replaced the factory/OE one?

Did they say what was wrong the alternator(s), or did they just say it was a bad generator and replace them?
Both Alternators were OEM, and they didn't tell me anything.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,872 Posts
Glad you found out that the alternator was the source of the problem. However, if your battery is 5 years' old, it is on borrowed time. I would replace it, too. That's what I did when mine reached the 5-year mark. A little precaution will save you from being stranded somewhere.

You can now get a great deal on a Bosch Platinum (vented) battery at Pep Boys. It is Bosch's premium glass mat technology battery. It has 800 cca, 960 ca and a 140 min. reserve. It comes with a 48-month free replacement, and normally sells for $219.99. However, there is currently a 25% off sale and you can buy it for $164.99.

https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/838845/01051/2009/DODGE/CHALLENGER/0/V8-370%20%206.1L

 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
6,184 Posts
Both Alternators were OEM, and *they didn't tell me anything*.
Those BASS-TURDS!!

They must have heard you were communicating with me somehow, and they didn't want to risk any useful diagnosis info getting back to me...they're ALL out to get me!!

They want to see me broken down on the side of the road so they can drive by and laugh, but the joke's on them!! Oh yes, they won't be laughing so hard when I unleash my...

Wait, what were we talking about??

:|:

Crap, wrong forum, sorry!!


Thanks for the update though!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,874 Posts
So about a month ago my battery indicator light came on and all of a sudden my car started to act weird. The traction light came on, the abs light came on, my windows wouldn't roll down. So I pulled over and let the car sit for a few minutes I got back in the car and it started up with no problem, no abs indicator coming on, no battery indicator coming on everything is working fine. Until this morning... It started to do the same thing... Could it be that I need a battery? Or alternator... BTW I bought the car used its a 2012 RT... I had it for two years.
Sorry, I find the, the light came on a month ago and now all of a sudden part hysterical. Yes when the electrics to the cars go, the cars go crazy. That is the reason for the light.....or something.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,874 Posts
Glad you found out that the alternator was the source of the problem. However, if your battery is 5 years' old, it is on borrowed time. I would replace it, too. That's what I did when mine reached the 5-year mark. A little precaution will save you from being stranded somewhere.

You can now get a great deal on a Bosch Platinum (vented) battery at Pep Boys. It is Bosch's premium glass mat technology battery. It has 800 cca, 960 ca and a 140 min. reserve. It comes with a 48-month free replacement, and normally sells for $219.99. However, there is currently a 25% off sale and you can buy it for $164.99.

https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/838845/01051/2009/DODGE/CHALLENGER/0/V8-370%20%206.1L

Good advice!
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
6,184 Posts
From what I've read, and based on my understanding of that recall, these are 2 separate issues.

The recall is to replace alternators on 2011-2014 models which have alternators prone to premature failure (by being overworked basically), and if the alternator in question encounters the recalled scenario, it will fail in a predictable manner which is easily identifiable and verifiable.

The issue with my alternator (not covered by recall due to year model - 2010) is not a failure or even an identifiable failed piece of hardware anywhere in the system. It's just a fault on a circuit at the time it's checked, and thus the alternator is not commanded to start charging (if the engine is started). Could that be a bad alternator? Yes, but it could also be a bad battery, or a bad PCM, or mud in the tires, or yada, yada, yada...

It's definitely a mystery wrapped up in an enigma and hidden behind an obfuscated diagnosis MOP...and lucky me, I get to figure it all out!! HOORAY FOR ME!! :grin2:

No wait, today isn't opposite day is it...BOOO FOR ME!!! :frown:
 

·
Registered
Boosted Stroked 2014 Shaker M6
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
From what I've read, and based on my understanding of that recall, these are 2 separate issues.

The recall is to replace alternators on 2011-2014 models which have alternators prone to premature failure (by being overworked basically), and if the alternator in question encounters the recalled scenario, it will fail in a predictable manner which is easily identifiable and verifiable.

The issue with my alternator (not covered by recall due to year model - 2010) is not a failure or even an identifiable failed piece of hardware anywhere in the system. It's just a fault on a circuit at the time it's checked, and thus the alternator is not commanded to start charging (if the engine is started). Could that be a bad alternator? Yes, but it could also be a bad battery, or a bad PCM, or mud in the tires, or yada, yada, yada...

It's definitely a mystery wrapped up in an enigma and hidden behind an obfuscated diagnosis MOP...and lucky me, I get to figure it all out!! HOORAY FOR ME!! :grin2:

No wait, today isn't opposite day is it...BOOO FOR ME!!! :frown:
I drove to Tucson yesterday, at my first stop when I restarted the Shaker, the battery light came on. I did not put the scan tool on it. After my second stop, when I started the Shaker, the battery light was off. At my third stop, when I started the Shaker, the battery light was on again. After my forth stop, when I started the Shaker to come home, the battery light was off again. I drove home with no problems (60+ miles), and I haven't tried to start it yet today. :eek3: I haven't put my scan tool on it yet either, and now it's time to contact Dodge Cares to find out if they really do. :headbang:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
460 Posts
It's definitely a mystery wrapped up in an enigma and hidden behind an obfuscated diagnosis MOP...and lucky me, I get to figure it all out!! HOORAY FOR ME!! :grin2:
:
Better wrapped in an enigma than wrapped up in a ******. No, wait. Revved up like a ******? Wait.. What did you just call me?

Oh, man. It blocked my words... Manfred Mann
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
6,184 Posts
I drove to Tucson yesterday, at my first stop when I restarted the Shaker, the battery light came on. I did not put the scan tool on it. After my second stop, when I started the Shaker, the battery light was off. At my third stop, when I started the Shaker, the battery light was on again. After my forth stop, when I started the Shaker to come home, the battery light was off again. I drove home with no problems (60+ miles), and I haven't tried to start it yet today. :eek3: I haven't put my scan tool on it yet either, and now it's time to contact Dodge Cares to find out if they really do. :headbang:
Couple of things jump out at me about your post:

1. The erratic, non-sensical behavior you are experiencing is very much like what I have been seeing with mine. So much so, that I would be very surprised if whatever affliction yours has is not the same as whatever mine has too.

One difference between us is the time in between faults. For me, it has been more spread out as a general rule. So, once it faults on me, I will get it to clear somehow (sometimes easily, like cycling the key, or sometimes difficult, like removing/cleaning all engine grounds), and then it is usually at least a week before it will fault on me again. In the beginning of all this, it would be a month in between faults. Nowadays, it's usually 7-10 days in between, but has been as few as 3-4 days.

I don't think that's enough of a difference between us to declare they're different causes, but I suppose anything's possible.

2. FWIW, the next time it faults on you, and you have to do some driving, stopping, restarting, etc. before you can get it into the shop to be diagnosed, remember this little tip about checking for the fault at each start: you don't actually have to start the engine to verify whether or not it's still in fault (after going into fault obviously).

You can turn the key to Run (without starting it) and just watch the lights on the dash. Normally, the battery light will go off after about 5 seconds. But when it's in fault, that little battery light will stay on. You can go ahead and start the engine if you need to, and the battery light will stay on still and then ding at you.

I've found this tip useful for when I'm laboring away on the car trying everything I can to get the fault to clear, e.g. removing engine bay grounds to clean them and then reattach. I could go through 3 separate areas of stuff trying to get the fault to clear, and I don't want to do all the steps in each area before checking if the fault is gone. And I also don't want to be starting the engine over and over if the battery is not getting charged in between.

So after each attempt to clear the fault (1st - engine bay grounds, 2nd - battery posts and trunk grounds, 3rd - randomly removing and cleaning any wires I can find that aren't as originally attached), I will get in the car and turn the key to Run (without starting the engine) and just watch the battery light. If it does not go out after a few seconds and just remains on, then I know the fault is still in effect and I need to keep on trying to clear it.

Hopefully you won't find yourself in such a position so as to find that tip useful, but just in case, there ya go!

3. Please, please PLEASE try to get the service techs to document their diagnosis steps (not detailed, but just generally what was tried) on the service work order, OR at the very least tell you what they did to identify the culprit, whatever it turns out to be.

In other words, I'm hoping you won't mind if I piggy-back off your car's diagnosis and fix by borrowing the service tech's knowledge/experience on how he figured it out. But he will need to convey that information to you obviously. At which point, I am hoping you will feel magnanimous enough to pass it along to me so that I may apply it to my situation, if possible. :grin2:

NOTE: if I need to, I'm not above bribing someone for that info. Whether it's the techs or YOU, I have 3 bottles of damned good scotch that I am willing to trade for some information that will help me identify and/or resolve this problem with my car. And don't worry, the scotch is top notch - single malt from the Highlands of Scotland, not that Lowland crap or anything!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top