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Hi guys - I have a 2014 RT and I want to add some headers to complement the corsa sport I added about a month back. Almost exclusively a street car but do like like to get on it when I find an open road. Also looking for a nice healthy rumble at idle. I suppose my first question is do I go with shorty’s or LT’s?
 

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If you can go with longtubes (state inspections and crap) go that way. Shorties don’t give a great gain for the price and effort involved.
Unless you plan on doing major work down the line, stick with 1 3/4 or 1 7/8” sizes.
Two good brands: American racing headers and kooks
If you need a budget brand: jba (what I have on my Challenger but they didn’t make as much hp as the others will), still great sound though.


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If you can go with longtubes (state inspections and crap) go that way. Shorties don’t give a great gain for the price and effort involved.
Unless you plan on doing major work down the line, stick with 1 3/4 or 1 7/8” sizes.
Two good brands: American racing headers and kooks
If you need a budget brand: jba (what I have on my Challenger but they didn’t make as much hp as the others will), still great sound though.


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What is your opinion on Stainless Works?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Frank. Do you know anything about the Corsa LT Headers? Just wondering if it might be better to stick with same brand as my catback to optimize the fit.
 

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Thanks Frank. Do you know anything about the Corsa LT Headers? Just wondering if it might be better to stick with same brand as my catback to optimize the fit.
I really do not know too much, I only asked about Stainless Works because they sell complete systems, their redline set up sounds awesome, and they are located in Ohio (Same state as me). I like to support local people but I do hate paying sales tax on big ticket items.
 

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What is your opinion on Stainless Works?
I run SW headers and have no complaints. Their setup uses adapters between the mid pipes and cat-back. The mid pipes are 3" but the adapters can fit 2.5", 2.75" and 3" cat-backs. Every connection is slip fit (just like the OEM mid to cat-back connection) so there is no flange between the header collector and mid pipe (or cats). If you want air/water tight connections you do need to smear a little high temp silicone in the connections. They don't give you gaskets...just bolts and a tube of high temp silicone (run OEM gaskets instead). The bolts are holding up for me. I have run several hundred miles and bolts are still torqued down.

If you are getting long tubes, make sure you have a shop well an extra bung so you can run a wide band.


https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7916409-post5.html
https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7932865-post7.html
 

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The only experience I have with SW is on my buddy’s camaro. They looked like decent pieces and were slightly cheaper than the other big brands but they had some clearance issues.
We had to bang in one of the tubes a bit to clear the steering column and after both sides were on, they didn’t mate up great to the stock exhaust. Beyond that they were great on his application. He picked up about 15hp across the rpms when he had it dynoed.


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The only experience I have with SW is on my buddy’s camaro. They looked like decent pieces and were slightly cheaper than the other big brands but they had some clearance issues.
We had to bang in one of the tubes a bit to clear the steering column and after both sides were on, they didn’t mate up great to the stock exhaust. Beyond that they were great on his application. He picked up about 15hp across the rpms when he had it dynoed.


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All I can say is the set I purchased fit without any bending/banging and their header flange matches the stock exhaust gasket perfectly. My only complaint would be they still incorporate the little EGR tube which is not needed.
 

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best scenario for 5.7, take off 6.4 manifolds and mid pipes

Luke>:)


+1000000

If you ARE going the shorty route, i highly suggest the takeoffs too. Why?
#1: OEM parts dodge makes quality shit if you didnt know
#2: Integrated heat shielding
#3: Flows just as good as any other aftermarket shorty
#4: You can find a set for a $100 like i did.

What chally tatum mention also, it would be a good idea to get some 3” mid pipes or high flow cats to really compliment them. I have mine going from the 392 headers, to solo 3” cats, necked down to solo’s 2.5” catback after the resonator.
 

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If you can go with longtubes (state inspections and crap) go that way. Shorties don’t give a great gain for the price and effort involved.
Unless you plan on doing major work down the line, stick with 1 3/4 or 1 7/8” sizes.
Two good brands: American racing headers and kooks
If you need a budget brand: jba (what I have on my Challenger but they didn’t make as much hp as the others will), still great sound though.
I would not call JBA 1 7/8" titanium, ceramic coated long tube headers a budget brand, and how did you figure out that they don't make as much horse power as other brands? What they do do is bolt on easier than other brands.
 

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I would not call JBA 1 7/8" titanium, ceramic coated long tube headers a budget brand, and how did you figure out that they don't make as much horse power as other brands? What they do do is bolt on easier than other brands.


1 3/4” Jba headers are priced around $700. That’s half the price of other name brands that run 1400-1500. Even with catted mid pipes (twice the money of non-catted) and coated you are still looking at around 1200. That’s budget in my head. Not calling them bad, they’re on my Challenger.
With tuning, they made 10hp more peak (and about the same through the rpms) on my Challenger when it was just cammed, on a dyno jet, over several runs. Most report 20-30 rwhp gains from headers and a tune. Grant you a tune had already been incorporated for the cam on my car but my tuning shop and myself both expected to see far more than just 10hp from longtubes on a cammed setup.

Now I don’t really like to measure gains on a dyno but I unfortunately do not have track times before and after those modifications.


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1 3/4” Jba headers are priced around $700. That’s half the price of other name brands that run 1400-1500. Even with catted mid pipes (twice the money of non-catted) and coated you are still looking at around 1200. That’s budget in my head. Not calling them bad, they’re on my Challenger.
With tuning, they made 10hp more peak (and about the same through the rpms) on my Challenger when it was just cammed, on a dyno jet, over several runs. Most report 20-30 rwhp gains from headers and a tune. Grant you a tune had already been incorporated for the cam on my car but my tuning shop and myself both expected to see far more than just 10hp from longtubes on a cammed setup.

Now I don’t really like to measure gains on a dyno but I unfortunately do not have track times before and after those modifications.
As far as I know, those more expensive long tubes include mid-pipes, which makes the JBA's about the same price if mid-pipes are also included. My setup not only has the JBA 1 7/8" long tubes, but also JBA mid-pipes with a real x-pipe and flow through cats and the JBA cat-back. I went this route not only because of the quality, but also because the entire installation was a simple (if there is such a thing for headers) bolt on. The dyno for this entire setup is an additional 24 hp.
 

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1200 coated or 1500 non-coated. 300 difference is budget in my head, then add in the additional cost to get the more expensive coated.

To each their own.


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Kooks or American Racing.
 
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