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Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to do the first oil change on my new R/T... Wanting recommendations for the best weight to use here in Florida.
My motor is "ticky"... Will heavier oil help with the "Hell tick"?
 

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You'll get a thousand different opinions on brand, and a war will break out over whether or not heavier grades with throw MDS and VCT codes, too. :p

Truth be told, I don't think grade has much effect on valvetrain noises. But it might. I honestly don't think there's any HARM in trying a 30-weight (5w30 or 0w30) or even 0w40 as used in the 392... but it is possible that the slower response time of the cam phaser will make it throw a code. Some people have reported seeing that. But it won't actually harm the hardware, so going back to a 0w20 or 5w20 should solve it if it does occur.

But you said "new." That to me means warranty, so I'd stick with the grade recommended in the manual. If it ticks loudly, have 'em fix the real problem under warranty.
 

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Lots here about this. generally: Stick with 5w20- especially if you have an A8 or your MDS could malfunction. Conventional motor oil is all that is called for with the 5.7 HEMI but FCA wants you to use a brand that has their MS-6395 rating. Pennzoil, Valvoline & Quaker State all have this rating. Other brands will almost certainly work just fine but that's up to you. Lots of people use synthetic oil (myself included) but again- conventional is all that is needed on the 5.7 HEMI so thats your call. I use synthetic in all my cars just in case it "might" increase my MPG and "might" help keep the engine running good and clean inside for a long, long time to come. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep... Brand new... 2015 R/T that I just crossed the 2000 mile mark on Yesterday.

To clarify... I have seen people mention 0w40, and 0w30... Are these still multi viscosity?
The viscosity drops to "0"?
 

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Heavier oil will cause MDS to malfunction??
(I have a Diablo tuner, and I keep MDS turned off)
Sorry- your car is so new and you didn't say in your original post that you've already started modifying it. Maybe ask Diablo if you should use a different weight/type of oil? The HEMI "tick" seems to affect some cars more or less and some owners seem to be more aware of it than others. Some say synthetic oil cures it, some not. Some say it's valvetrain, some say it's the injectors. I'm glad I don't hear it in my R/T.
 

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It is your call but if you have any warranty issues and they determine wrong viscosity oil is in car you can be denied warranty coverage on related parts.These Hemi engines tick.Learn to like it.Mine quieted down significantly after 5000 miles.I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic 5w20.If your changing your own oil note that it may have a different oil filter than you expect based on the build date of the car.Ask me how I know.Had car jacked up and ready to proceed only to find out 2015 R/T used a different filter than my previous 2014 R/T.
 

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It is your call but if you have any warranty issues and they determine wrong viscosity oil is in car you can be denied warranty coverage on related parts.These Hemi engines tick.Learn to like it.Mine quieted down significantly after 5000 miles.I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic 5w20.If your changing your own oil note that it may have a different oil filter than you expect based on the build date of the car.Ask me how I know.Had car jacked up and ready to proceed only to find out 2015 R/T used a different filter than my previous 2014 R/T.
Apparently Dodge changes the oil filter model in mid-'15 production run for some reason. My '15 R/T has a build date of Oct '15 so it has the common MO-899 that's been used in previous years.
that would suck to get fixn' to do an oil change and find out you need a different filter.
 

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Apparently Dodge changes the oil filter model in mid-'15 production run for some reason. My '15 R/T has a build date of Oct '15 so it has the common MO-899 that's been used in previous years.
that would suck to get fixn' to do an oil change and find out you need a different filter.
MO-899 and MO-339 are interchangeable. It wouldn't make a difference. Why Dodge changed what filter it comes with I don't know. But you can use the 339 on yours, or vice versa.
 

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Getting ready to do the first oil change on my new R/T... Wanting recommendations for the best weight to use here in Florida.
My motor is "ticky"... Will heavier oil help with the "Hell tick"?
I say stick with 5W-20. I'm not a big risk taker when it comes to a brand new engine with warranty. But that's just me.

If the dealer says it's normal Hemi noise, but you're still intent on quieting down the valvetrain noise (If that's what it is), You could experiment with 5W-30 or even 5W-40. It's not going to destroy your engine by any means, but systems like MDS and VVT depend on oil flow to function properly. If it results in an issue (check engine light), switch back to 5W-20.

It's also possible the tick you're hearing is fuel injector noise. Poor quality gas with too much ethanol can cause that.
 

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Using Xw40 in the 5.7 will trigger codes for MDS at the very least, possibly for the VVT as well. The 392 uses a number of different parts to account for the different viscosity oil. Setting a code isn't a debate, it's a fact. I've seen it happen and I've seen draining the 0w40 and putting the proper 5w20 back in clear the code.

My 5.7 was quietest with Mobil 1 5w20 and Royal Purple 5w20, it was noticeably noisier the one time I had Pennzoil Platinum put in in a pinch.

Follow the API and viscosity recommendations in the manual for warranty reasons, the Chrysler MS-6395 spec isn't required and using an oil without that spec won't do anything to your warranty as long as it meets the correct API and viscosity ratings.

Ultimately, any quality oil and filter that are correct for the engine will be fine but some may quiet the engine down more than others. YMMV.
 

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My engine seems to like the 5w20 Castrol edge with titanium. When I hit the sport button( which modifies the engine mapping..VVT), the response is immediat. With Pennzoil platinum I can't feel the same response.
I've tried also with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and I felt like I lost some HP ( yes I know I have the Pentastar...but..regarding the VVT response, it can be the same for your engine...viscosity vs pressures to activate the VVT)


Sincerely, I would stick with 5w20 for the sake of the warranty
 

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I know I'm going to get incredible amounts of hell for this but Quantum Blue is the only way to go. It's the best oil for anything that needs lubrication.
 

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I know I'm going to get incredible amounts of hell for this but Quantum Blue is the only way to go. It's the best oil for anything that needs lubrication.

I don't think you will. :)

I think anyone would have a hard time proving real-world benefits of expensive boutique oils, though. Lab tests may show it's better, but translating that into something tangible that vehicle owners would see that justifies the cost of the product is pretty much impossible, IMO.
 

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Believe it or not, I actually noticed a difference from behind the wheel. The car performs quite a bit better and the power seems to be a little more effortless. I won't go back to off the shelf oil.
 

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Believe it or not, I actually noticed a difference from behind the wheel. The car performs quite a bit better and the power seems to be a little more effortless. I won't go back to off the shelf oil.
Seems rather unscientific and anecdotal, but if that change is good enough for you that you're willing to pay the price to get that result then nobody can tell you otherwise.

In terms of longevity, fuel economy, etc, I don't think anyone will be able to show conclusively that using QB will have any advantage that justifies the cost of the product over things like Mobil 1, etc.

I can't remember the last time I read that someone needed to have their engine rebuilt as a result of high-mileage wear as long as it was properly maintained. We've got gas engines going for 200,000 miles or more with ease, I just don't believe that QB (or AMSoil or any other boutique oil) is going to really make a difference in the long run. I think synthetic oil does make a difference over conventional in extreme use cases (heat, cold, racing) and does keep engines cleaner inside, but once you start getting down to the real-world use cases and long term results I think the biggest difference between synthetics is the price and people are looking for any reason to justify paying more for a product that isn't likely to make any difference compared to a cheaper alternative.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, etc. :D
 

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Quantum Blue from BND Automotive. I have over 100,000 miles driven with it, in both my 300 SRT8 and R/T Shaker. Custom blended for your car, climate, and intended usage. Brian also offers his own premium hi-spec oil filters. Quiets Hemi tick. I run his products in my entire drivetrain and my mileage did improve a bit. Recommended.

If you want a smoother running engine, greatly reduced engine wear, better mileage, clean injectors, and more - check out his Aces IV. Expensive, but worth it. Google the article written a few years ago by a well-regarded industry expert who tested an engine the equivalent of 100,000 miles, and see what he had to say.
 

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Quantum Blue from BND Automotive. I have over 100,000 miles driven with it, in both my 300 SRT8 and R/T Shaker. Custom blended for your car, climate, and intended usage. Brian also offers his own premium hi-spec oil filters. Quiets Hemi tick. I run his products in my entire drivetrain and my mileage did improve a bit. Recommended.

If you want a smoother running engine, greatly reduced engine wear, better mileage, clean injectors, and more - check out his Aces IV. Expensive, but worth it. Google the article written a few years ago by a well-regarded industry expert who tested an engine the equivalent of 100,000 miles, and see what he had to say.
Oh God, Aces IV. That stuff is the nectar of the gods for engines. I love it. Added throttle response, better mileage, more power, and a cleaner fuel system. Love love love it.
 
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