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Quantum Blue from BND Automotive. I have over 100,000 miles driven with it, in both my 300 SRT8 and R/T Shaker. Custom blended for your car, climate, and intended usage. Brian also offers his own premium hi-spec oil filters. Quiets Hemi tick. I run his products in my entire drivetrain and my mileage did improve a bit. Recommended.

If you want a smoother running engine, greatly reduced engine wear, better mileage, clean injectors, and more - check out his Aces IV. Expensive, but worth it. Google the article written a few years ago by a well-regarded industry expert who tested an engine the equivalent of 100,000 miles, and see what he had to say.
While this all may be entirely true - I had to laugh at the 100K teardown. wow - 100K!

I have seen teardowns of taxi and muni service engines with 250K plus running nothing but 30 weight dino oil that showed no or little measurable wear. Tearing an engine down at 100K and thinking it is significant of anything is like basing your lifelong MPG results on the very first tank.
 

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It was mentioned in a different thread that the cost of QB for one oil change was around $150. That's about $21.40/qt.

Mobil 1 5w20 from Wal-Mart runs $6.06/qt (One 5qt jug and two 1qt bottles). That's a difference of $15.34/qt.

Assuming you go 10,000 miles between oil changes, after 150k miles you'll have spent over $1600 more on oil compared to Mobil 1. If you're like me, you go 6,000 miles between changes. That's almost $2700 MORE than using Mobil 1.

If you had identical engines except one ran Mobil 1 and the other ran QB and they were torn down at 150,000 miles I doubt you'd be able to tell which ran which oil without being told.

Your money, though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Please don't take this the wrong way... I am only asking because I am relatively new to this site, and I have seen very similar posts come up in Google searches from other sites.
But... Are some of the people pushing for Quantum Blue affiliated with the company?
Not trying to ruffle any feathers, and I am certainly NOT calling anyone a liar.
But, I want to make sure all the testimonials I am seeing are independent.
 

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Please don't take this the wrong way... I am only asking because I am relatively new to this site, and I have seen very similar posts come up in Google searches from other sites.
But... Are some of the people pushing for Quantum Blue affiliated with the company?
Not trying to ruffle any feathers, and I am certainly NOT calling anyone a liar.
But, I want to make sure all the testimonials I am seeing are independent.
Apart from being a customer, I'm not affiliated with BND automotive. I use his products in my car and my fiance's car. That's the only basis for my testimony.
 

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While this all may be entirely true - I had to laugh at the 100K teardown. wow - 100K!

I have seen teardowns of taxi and muni service engines with 250K plus running nothing but 30 weight dino oil that showed no or little measurable wear. Tearing an engine down at 100K and thinking it is significant of anything is like basing your lifelong MPG results on the very first tank.

Word?
 

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No affiliation to BND here. I've purchased and used their products since 2009 and been satisfied with my personal results.


Full disclosure: I have met Brian, owner of BND Automotive, in person and have probably spoken with him a dozen times on the phone over the years. When one calls BND, you'll speak directly to him, and he'll do his best to answer any question you have.


He owns a 2006 Charger SRT8 and a 1969 Charger, which he restored. He is an avid car enthusiast, like a lot of us. Brian is a chemist and physicist and he is a tribologist. From Wikipedia: Tribology is the science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear. Tribology is a branch of mechanical engineering and materials science. He has over 30 years experience. As I understand it, his career work has had to do with commercial and military applications, including rockets and jets, as well as diesel and gas vehicle applications.


In my opinion, because of his interest in his cars and the hobby, he saw an opportunity to use his expertise to offer some unique products to his fellow automotive enthusiasts. Again, as I understand it, some of the raw materials he uses are not inexpensive, and the manufacturing processes used are labor-intensive, which would explain their additional cost. Maybe he makes a buck or two - good for him.


I think Yahooligan and others have a point here. Would there be a really significant difference in wear between a) an engine run xxx,xxx miles on dino oil at 3,000 mile change intervals, b) an engine run xxx,xxx miles on Mobil 1 at 6,000 mile change intervals, or c) an engine run xxx,xxx miles on Quantum Blue at 10,000 mile change intervals? We'll probably never know, and we can only infer from the results of independent 3rd party testing, such as that that done by David Vizard and others, and first accounts of actual user experiences - both good and bad - like we all read here on the forums. Is the product worth the money? That's always for the guy opening his wallet to decide, right?


Personally, I think the combo of BND's ACES IV fuel catalyst and Quantum Blue lubricants is a winner. I certainly encourage you to do your own due diligence by reading what is out there on the Internet about the subject. Flat Top - a respected member here on ChallengerTalk - had an interesting post regarding these products, do a search for it.
 

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Seems rather unscientific and anecdotal, but if that change is good enough for you that you're willing to pay the price to get that result then nobody can tell you otherwise.

In terms of longevity, fuel economy, etc, I don't think anyone will be able to show conclusively that using QB will have any advantage that justifies the cost of the product over things like Mobil 1, etc.

I can't remember the last time I read that someone needed to have their engine rebuilt as a result of high-mileage wear as long as it was properly maintained. We've got gas engines going for 200,000 miles or more with ease, I just don't believe that QB (or AMSoil or any other boutique oil) is going to really make a difference in the long run. I think synthetic oil does make a difference over conventional in extreme use cases (heat, cold, racing) and does keep engines cleaner inside, but once you start getting down to the real-world use cases and long term results I think the biggest difference between synthetics is the price and people are looking for any reason to justify paying more for a product that isn't likely to make any difference compared to a cheaper alternative.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, etc. :D
I've never heard of AMSoil being called a "boutique" oil before. I was turned on to it years ago by a friend who builds performance engines for a living. I use it and their filters in all of my rides, including my 2004 Ram 2500 Hemi, which is still going strong.

As for Quantum Blue, this is the first I've ever heard of it, but as someone once said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", so I guess I won't be trying anything new.
 

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I've never heard of AMSoil being called a "boutique" oil before.
What's funny is a Yahoo search for "boutique motor oil" brings up multiple AMSoil links at the very top. On Google, there are multiple links that mention boutique oil brands and include AMSoil in their lists.

All it means is that the oil is generally more expensive, "specialized", and harder to find in retail stores compared to the major brands (Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc). I'm glad you're happy with it, personally I won't ever touch the stuff.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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Lots here about this. generally: Stick with 5w20- especially if you have an A8 or your MDS could malfunction. Conventional motor oil is all that is called for with the 5.7 HEMI but FCA wants you to use a brand that has their MS-6395 rating. Pennzoil, Valvoline & Quaker State all have this rating. Other brands will almost certainly work just fine but that's up to you. Lots of people use synthetic oil (myself included) but again- conventional is all that is needed on the 5.7 HEMI so thats your call. I use synthetic in all my cars just in case it "might" increase my MPG and "might" help keep the engine running good and clean inside for a long, long time to come. Good luck.
Just asking,(I realize this post is from 2016, maybe someone else will respond too) ..... Does it increase your MPG or do you just hope it does?
In my experience, I never noticed a difference.
I use conventional oil in my 2007 Ram. Will probably do the same for my 2018 Challenger, haven't decided yet. May go synthetic.

I got it used certified from a Dodge dealer and think it has conventional in it now based on the sticker showing mileage for next change which is 5000 miles from what the miles reads. It doesn't say what brand or weight of oil was used, but i assume it is 5W-20 which is what the manual recommends.

It will be six months that I've had it at the end of this month. I've only put 1500 miles on it since then(it has 26,600) but will change it anyways.
Wifes car uses synthetic..... Only because she took it in years back and that's what they put in it so we just stick with it but it has had conventional before but not since they put synthetic in it.

Never heard of Amsoil or Global Blue. Not in the cards for me. I use Pennzoil, Valvoline or Quaker State my whole life in my cars.
 

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Amsoil sig series ,or if I can't find a deal I'll settle for penzoil

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Wait what? Amsoil is the real deal.
I'm sure it is, I just never heard of it and will stick to what I've been using for 40 years. Never failed me.
 
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Big big big fan of redline. Wont run anything else

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I thought “synthetic” was the recommended oil in these cars??....thought I saw a post saying it’s “conventional”...
 

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I thought “synthetic” was the recommended oil in these cars??....thought I saw a post saying it’s “conventional”...
Only thing FCA says it that the 6.2 and 6.4L engines must use synthetic and that was the factory fill.

The 3.6 and 5.7L engines use conventional.


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Getting ready to do the first oil change on my new R/T... Wanting recommendations for the best weight to use here in Florida.
My motor is "ticky"... Will heavier oil help with the "Hell tick"?
I can't really comment on the tick or changing the weight of the oil but these are the brands I'd recommend:

Amsoil>Redline>Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
 
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Only thing FCA says it that the 6.2 and 6.4L engines must use synthetic and that was the factory fill.

The 3.6 and 5.7L engines use conventional.


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Wow.....I’ve owned 2 of these (5.7 L) challengers...and did not realize that...
Oh well....I suspect most owners use Synthetic..
 

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As inexpensive as a good quality synthetic is now in 5 quart jugs, I can't see using anything else.

Follow the factory recommended weights, as there's no need, or no good, that comes out of "garage engineering."

Also make sure that the oil used meets the factory MS specs. Some oils don't, even though they say that they exceed factory specs.

Everything is engineered at the factory, and info is in the manual/service schedule section.

It's pretty easy to follow.
 

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I thought Hal mentioned that there was a TSB/STAR on the 5.7 manuals where 0w40 was recommended if the engine ticked or something like that. Running heavier weights on autos might throw an MDS code saying something like incorrect oil viscosity detected.
 
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