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I have a 2013 Challenger R/T and have been considering lowering it and upgrading the suspension so I can autocross and track it. What woud be the best combination of modifcations to make it fun at the track but still have a stock like ride?
 

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Ah....a man that wants it ALL......GL with that. :grin2:

The more "fun" you have at the track the less of a "stock" ride you'll have.
 

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Probably a good set of adjustable coilovers and larger front & rear sway bars.

That way you can set up a rate / height for DD and for track lower & set for higher rate.
 

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I am kind of looking at the same thing. Have a 2013 RT/C with standard suspension and looking to lower the car a bit. However being a daily driver I don't want to lose a lot of comfort. When the weather turns for the better, I am considering the Mopar upgrade P5155435AD. This has the Bilstein shocks and struts and springs. From what I gather, its like the super track pack suspension and should lower the car a bit, maybe 1/2-inch to an inch at most.
 

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A favorite quote of mine is:

"a fast car at the track is 75% driver, 15% tires, 5% suspension, 5% other,
With the above said... The "nut-behind-the-wheel" is always the biggest influencing factor."

In reality its how much you can push the car to its limits. Your limits as an amateur are different that a pro in the same vehicle. Knowing how much grip there is and what line to take into a turn. Its where driving experience matters.
 

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These cars are boats and have a lot of body roll...heres what i did to eliminate MOST of the body roll on the street:
-Pettys Subfram Chassis Connectors
-Drake Scott front strut brace
-Poly sway bar bushings
-Adjustable sway bar links UPR
-Front controll arms and rear bushings (camber fix)
-Lowering springs (soon to be coilovers)
-and STICKY TIRES #1
I kept up with a focus ST through the canyons in malibu last week pretty well. Only remaining issue is loss of steering through mid-corner bumps but im sure coilovers will solve a majority of that.
 

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A favorite quote of mine is:

"a fast car at the track is 75% driver, 15% tires, 5% suspension, 5% other,
With the above said... The "nut-behind-the-wheel" is always the biggest influencing factor."

In reality its how much you can push the car to its limits. Your limits as an amateur are different that a pro in the same vehicle. Knowing how much grip there is and what line to take into a turn. Its where driving experience matters.
Im not sure if i would agree with that quote>:)
 

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yes a driver can make a shitty car seem great, but when the competition is fierce, you better have a great car
Luke:grin2:
 

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how much money are you looking to spend and what is the true end goal???

strut braces front and rear, subframe connectors, starting point

new front and rear sway bars....Hellcat bars of ACR stage 2 Mopar bars are very good

lowering springs, Mopar stages one are really good

better true adjustable coil overs, real adjustable will set you back

if you want to play with the big boys, JRI, Ultimate Performance 30 way rebound and compression adjustable coil overs

now tires, probably the most important modification and better bigger brakes is not far behind
>:)
 

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Luke- "Hellcat bars of ACR stage 2 Mopar bars are very good"

What is "ACR?" Is that a Mopar part, or an aftermarket manufacturer part sway bar?
 

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Hal- what swaybars do you like for an RT to beef up from stock?
 

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Hal- what swaybars do you like for an RT to beef up from stock?
I had Hotchkis on my '09 R/T - much stiffer than the OEM units.
 

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I have a question, first some info. I have a set of SRT springs I bought from a member here that I never installed on my 2015 R/T (because I just can not decide on how much of a drop I want). I am curious I have 10.5" wide rims (rear) +25mm offset wrapped in Nitto Motivo, 315/35 R20 in the rear and am afraid to lower the rear too far. Well I am thinking of getting a set of Mopar Stage I springs and installing the front from those and the rear from the SRT set. I know it would lower the car's center of gravity and might give it a nice old school rake but would it mover the center of gravity too far to the rear of the car and worsen it's handling?
 

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Hal- does anyone make tubular sway bars for Challenger? What's your opinion of tubular vs. solid bars?

Racing guys from my club had good results with big aftermarket tubular bars for the big boat LT1 Impalas, they worked will with less weight.
 

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Hal- does anyone make tubular sway bars for Challenger? What's your opinion of tubular vs. solid bars?

Racing guys from my club had good results with big aftermarket tubular bars for the big boat LT1 Impalas, they worked will with less weight.
the front 38mm bar (Hotchkis) on my '09 was tubular / hollow. They don't necessarily need to be solid to do the job.

The thickness of the walls would determine the stiffness. Imagine how heavy a solid 38mm bar would be!

(stock front bar was 30mm and solid)
 
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