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Discussion Starter #1
I was unbolting the upper bellhousing and got 3 of the 4 nuts/studs out. The one behind the driver's side head was very difficult and I was pushing against it so hard somehow it broke free and now the nut is stripped enough that the 15 mil socket can't lock on enough. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The m'fer is on so tight even a breaker bar couldnt get it to come free. It's hard to work in that area there's so much crap. I don't think vise grips would give me enough leverage.

I was thinking about using Cam's earlier suggestion of double nutting the stud maybe with some lock tite? Anyone every try that after you've stripped it?
 
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Here's what I'd try (in order):

- 14mm socket banged on if there's room
- A stripped nut extractor, similar to this



- welding a 15mm socket onto the nut
 

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How bad did you round the head? if you double nut it, can you get the flats of both nuts to line up if this makes sence, that way you have more surface area for the socket.
 

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Here's what I'd try (in order):

- 14mm socket banged on if there's room not enough room for hammer
- A stripped nut extractor, similar to this good tip

- welding a 15mm socket onto the nut
Most of the boys dont have mig welders like you and I have.lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hm, don't know that I could get them to line up perfectly. I wouldn't say it's terribly rounded but obviously I am worried about making it worse. to compound the problem the only way to even attempt it is to use a deep well 15mil or an 15mil sized open top. It's on there so tight I almost feel like whatever I pound on the nut will just break free. I mean I went after this thing with a breaker and that is what stripped it.
 

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X2 stripped nut, I got a set from Snapon and they do work. But if the dam thing is so tight I'm not sure it would work?? How is it the tuffest spots to get to always have some MFR that a some btch??
 
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NEVER USE 12 point sockets!! LOL I know I'm too late, but for next time.

Try to get a 6-point 14mm (or 9/16) on there if you can. Really.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fack. I will hit lowes and grab a 6 point 14mm, 15mm, and 9/16. Crossing my fingers.
 
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If a high-quality 6-point 15mm does not move much on the nut, it will likely remove it. Make sure you apply torque evenly to the nut by holding the ratchet head if you possibly can.

Good luck man.
 

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First thing you can do is use a 9/16. That is the correct size for the bolt as it is an SAE thread and bolt head.

Really don't wanna sound like a dick here.....but....Have you ever done a job like this before? And are you sure you want to tackle this? And do you have a manual at hand? If not I would suggest downloading one.
 

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A 6 point socket for sure also if you can heat the nut with a torch. Some of the local stores Home Depot, Menards have heat insulating pads used by plummers for copper soldering. Protect the area around the nut and use a torch to heat the nut & then remove it
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First thing you can do is use a 9/16. That is the correct size for the bolt as it is an SAE thread and bolt head.

Really don't wanna sound like a dick here.....but....Have you ever done a job like this before? And are you sure you want to tackle this? And do you have a manual at hand? If not I would suggest downloading one.
You don't sound like a dick man. And no, the most I have ever done before this is change the oil. I knew going in I would make mistakes so no big deal. I wanted to learn how to do all this myself rather than just pay someone else to do it. The install cost is trivial compared to the value of my own time and other parts I have going into this.

Thanks to your help, Cam, and others and all the threads on LX I think I am doing pretty good so far. And thanks for the 9/16 tip...that did the trick :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
First thing you can do is use a 9/16. That is the correct size for the bolt as it is an SAE thread and bolt head.

Really don't wanna sound like a dick here.....but....Have you ever done a job like this before? And are you sure you want to tackle this? And do you have a manual at hand? If not I would suggest downloading one.

Is this https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/FacetSearchResults.aspx?make=Dodge&catIDs=3006&producttype=Service Manuals&ptCatId=3083 the best place for the service manual? Does it have detailed instructions on the engine swap?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I found their 2008 one. Do their also have 2009+? 2008 will not have 6 speeds covered.
 
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