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Discussion Starter #1
Okay guys I’ve been hearing from a lot of people on facebook from challenger groups that doing a TB upgrade isn’t worth it? Correct me if I wrong.

i thought with a custom tune I’d get some gains with cold air intake too. I’m currently on JBA catless mid pipes and carven mufflers. Billet tech oil catch can. Haven’t done anything internally yet. Anyone help and advise me if i should get a bigger TB and CAI? Thanks!
 

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Factory intake is already cold air and can flow what the engine demands. This has been covered a thousand times.

You have a naturally aspirated, 16 valve, pushrod, 6.4 without any fancy direct injection or other modern voodoo magic pushing 485hp.

There are no quick and easy hp adders that the factory didn't already do.

The tune will provide the most (assuming you have the available fuel). Everything else is just single digit HP gains for a bunch of money or its pure snake oil.
 

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Oregonscat pretty much nailed it.
You will see no gains from a larger TB as a stand alone with basic bolt ons. If your SRT is a 2013 (based on your signature), your factory intake is not a cold air unit, anything pulling in any hot underhood air, even if its advertised as a CAI, is simpy not going to be a true "C"AI.
I believe they make a fenderpull unit for your year range, which will at least put the inlet outside from underhood.
A true CAI combined with a good tune, proper fuel can pick up about 25-30hp,
Most exhaust mods add sound but no real power - until you get into tube headers, etc.
It gets a bit harder & bit more expensive to pursue more HP after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Guys I don’t have a 6.4 or a SRT, it’s a 5.7, so arent there any other bolt-ons or internal performance parts I can add to it ?
 

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Sure, you could go F/I. But a throttle body and aftermarket CAI are not the answer.
 

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Guys I don’t have a 6.4 or a SRT, it’s a 5.7, so arent there any other bolt-ons or internal performance parts I can add to it ?
When it comes to the R/T, the best N/A mod you can do is headers and a tune. If you are a stock R/T, shorty headers and a tune should have you pushing around 340-350 RWHP. A Cam, longtubes, and tune should put you around 375-385 RWHP. It all depends on how much money you are willing to throw at it.
 

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Guys I don’t have a 6.4 or a SRT, it’s a 5.7, so arent there any other bolt-ons or internal performance parts I can add to it ?
there is lots of headroom built into the 5.7 but a large portion of those, after the mod entry barrier is breeched, are not going to be simple bolt ons.
as stated a tune is going to be your biggest gainer per $$,
25hp is not uncommon with that alone, now you are up at or slightly above 400hp and you'll need it to tie in with any other mods down the road.
It becomes an expensive game of diminishing returns however, thus why guys just upgrade to a scatpack or hellcat or redeye...there is always the "more" factor thats just out of reach..lol
 

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The best mod I have done to my 5.7 has been the supercharger.
981636
 

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Guys I don’t have a 6.4 or a SRT, it’s a 5.7, so arent there any other bolt-ons or internal performance parts I can add to it ?
When I had an R/T I went from a 13.6 quarter mile stock down to a 12.8, my car was a 2010 auto R/T. My mods were diablo sport 93 tune, BBK 85mm throttle body, CAI, Borla cat back, FTI 3,200 stall converter and drag radials. Biggest gain probably came from the tune everything else probably added incrementally to the package but nothing was as big of a game changer as the tune. That said I customized my tune a bit and ran race fuel to get optimum results.

For track use the drag radials really help get a good launch but if you are looking for street use only mods then (as I see in your signature you already have a tune) I'd add some shorty headers. You should be able to find some used SRT exhaust manifolds for fairly cheap or you can buy the aftermarket ones but from what I've seen they both add the same amount of HP (generally have seen 5-8 HP gain listed where folks have dyno'd them).

The converter will pick you up some time on the low end but again if you aren't racing but just using it for street use probably not worth the money. If you do decide to get a TB I wouldn't get a ported one but a true larger TB. I ran a ported TB on my SRT 392 for a while but saw no gain at the track. I felt the BBK 85mm TB helped my overall package of CAI, tune etc..when I ran it on my R/T, but who knows for sure as I never dyno'd the thing and seat of the pants is a terrible dyno. All I know is my car got faster as I added mods and working as a whole I picked up almost 8 tenths in the quarter mile.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When it comes to the R/T, the best N/A mod you can do is headers and a tune. If you are a stock R/T, shorty headers and a tune should have you pushing around 340-350 RWHP. A Cam, longtubes, and tune should put you around 375-385 RWHP. It all depends on how much money you are willing to throw at it.
wait what? With shorties 350 RWHP? I thought the stock is 375 RWHP ???
 

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375 Crank HP approx. 20% loss with an A8 at RW

A Guy
 

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wait what? With shorties 350 RWHP? I thought the stock is 375 RWHP ???
Stock is 375 flywheel horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower. A Guy explained it perfectly above.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So how do we compensate for the loss?

Do I get a lighter flywheel? If so, which brand is best / popular?
 

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So how do we compensate for the loss?

Do I get a lighter flywheel? If so, which brand is best / popular?
What exactly are you looking to do? If looking for strictly horsepower, the best option is forced air, nitrous, or upgrade the car. I wouldn't mess with anything else.
 

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So how do we compensate for the loss?

Do I get a lighter flywheel? If so, which brand is best / popular?
Can’t really compensate for drivetrain loss beyond adding power...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Guys I don’t have a 6.4 or a SRT, it’s a 5.7, so arent there any other bolt-ons or internal performance parts I can add to it ?
My first mod was long tubes with a custom tune. If you'd like a list of mods to do, everything I've done, to date, is listed in my Showcase here.
 

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So how do we compensate for the loss?

Do I get a lighter flywheel? If so, which brand is best / popular?
Tune/LTH are your best bet for more power. If a 30-40WHP gain over what you have currently won't satisfy you, you're better off looking into a used Scat Pack rather than supercharging your 5.7.
 

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Tune/LTH are your best bet for more power. If a 30-40WHP gain over what you have currently won't satisfy you, you're better off looking into a used Scat Pack rather than supercharging your 5.7.
A supercharger will provide a tad more than 30-40 RWHP...
 
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